Leading the Way Dog Training and Guide Dogs

No classes Jan 21 due to weather

2012-01-21T03:39:00.000-08:00

All classes cancelled due to winter storm!

Be safe!

Where is the Beef...

2012-01-07T11:50:00.000-08:00

When I read this article my jaw hit the floor. While I knew many of these treats where unhealthy I had no idea they where deadly. Please share this with your friends and family. These companies making theses treats are only concerned with the bottom line: MONEY! If we all boycotted these products there bottom line. Stop the poisoning....

Where’s the beef? Read the label on one of the popular dog treats and you’ll be asking yourself that same question. Milk-Bones and Beggin Strips are the #1 and #2 top selling treats respectively and I’d sooner have my dog stick her head in the curbside garbage on a hot day than eat that stuff.

Where’s the conscience of Del Monte and Purina when they put toxins and animal waste in our pets’ food? And they’re not the only ones. Anyone that hides behind “Natural Flavors” on their label instead of telling us exactly what those flavors are (ADI, Waggin’ Train) needs a firm kick in the caboose. Just because the FDA allows manufacturers to do it, doesn’t mean they should.

BHA, BHT, Ethoxyquin, Sodium Metabisulfite and TBHQ.

These are chemical preservatives known to cause things like: cancer, liver and kidney problems, weakness, loss of consciousness, brain damage, and life-threatening asthma. One or more of these chemicals are in the top two selling treats and numerous others. The chemicals also are used to manufacture things like rubber and petroleum products, and embalming fluid.

Treats containing at least one of these chemicals These chemicals are used to manufacture:

Milk-Bones (Del Monte)

Embalming Fluid

Beggin Strips (Purina)

Jet Fuels

Pup Peroni (Del Monte)

Rubber Products

Busy Bones (Purina)

Pesticides

Moist n Meaty (Purina)

Electrical Transformer Oil

T-Bonz (Purina)

Petroleum Products

Ethoxyquin is so toxic that the FDA has prohibited it from human consumption except for minute quantities in certain spices (e.g. cayenne pepper). The FDA, despite the behest of veterinarians, has done nothing but suggest to pet product manufacturers they reduce its usage. Who knows if any of them have reduced it, but Purina still adds it into their Moist ‘n Meaty as disclosed clearly on their label. (See Sidebar about how tough it can be to spot ethoxyquin and other toxins.)

Toxins in pet food

So what’s the deal with all these other chemical preservatives? Sodium Metabisulfite (the preservative in Milk-Bones) is harmful if ingested or inhaled (as in sniffed). It reacts with WATER and acids (like those in your dog’s stomach) to release toxic sulfur dioxide gas. It can cause life-threatening asthmatic reactions after ingestion as well as gastrointestinal, circulatory and central nervous system problems. The people who handle this stuff are required to wear hazmat suits and respirators. And believe it or not, there’s more written about the harmful effects and cancer-causing properties of BHA and BHT than sodium metabisulfite. BHT is actually banned in England. And BHA is thought by the National Institutes of Health to cause stomach cancer.

TBHQ (a butane derivative) can cause death from ingestion of as little as 5 grams. Ingestion of a single gram (1/13 of an ounce) causes nausea, vomiting, ringing in the ears, delirium, a sense of suffocation and collapse. The FDA puts strict requirements on uses of all these toxic chemical preservatives in human food, but pet foods have few if any requirements and often contain much more.

So what’s the good news? There are many better, natural solutions for preserving food. Dehydration is the first one. Take the moisture out of something and bacteria cannot grow. Ask any caveman. It’s been around that long. And, no self-respecting cowboy would go hungry when he has a piece of dried meat in his pocket. Vitamin E, Vitamin C, and rosemary and sage extracts also make good, natural solutions. The problem for Purina and Del-Monte and others is that dehydration, vitamins and herb extracts are more expensive than sodium metabisulfite, BHA, BHT, TBHQ or ethoxyquin.

Dehydration, for instance, produces a treat with a lower water content (but denser nutritional profile) that hence weighs less. Dehydration also takes time and electricity – which cost money. Since treats are sold by net weight, massive commercial manufacturers want to keep the moisture content high so they can sell you the weight in water. But then they have to toss in chemical preservatives to keep the treats from spoiling.

“Natural Flavors” and Animal Digests

Here’s the scoop on natural flavors and animal digests: the FDA allows digestive tract contents to be processed into animal feed.

The FDA says:

“With respect to flavors, pet foods often contain digests, which are materials treated with heat, enzymes, and/or acids to form concentrated natural flavors. Only a small amount of a chicken digest is needed to produce a ‘Chicken Flavored Cat Food,’ even though no actual chicken is added to the food…” [emphasis added].

“Natural Flavors” and “Animal Digests” are on the labels of these popular products among others:

Beggin Strips (Purina)

Waggin-Train Jerky Tenders (made by ADI Pet in China)

Busy Bones (Purina)

T-Bonz (Purina)

The Goodlife Recipe (Mars, Inc.)

Meat and By-Products

Ever glance at a pet food label and see an ingredient called “meat?” Would you buy anything in the grocery store’s meat section that’s just identified as “meat” on the label? What exactly qualifies as “meat” and “by-products”?

Here’s a hint: The FDA has found pentobarbital (the euthanasia drug) in our pet’s food.

According to the FDA, “meat” for animal feed comes from:

“independent [rendering] plants that obtain animal by-product materials, including grease, blood, feathers, offal and entire animal carcasses from the following sources: butcher shops, supermarkets, restaurants, fast-food chains, poultry processors, slaughterhouses, farms, ranches, feedlots, and animal shelters.” [emphasis added]

AAFCO, the organization that works with the FDA to standardize definitions of ingredients and other things for the pet food industry, broadly defines “byproducts”. Poultry byproducts, for instance can include: “the carcass of slaughtered poultry such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs and intestines exclusive of feathers except… as might occur unavoidably…”

But it’s not the feathers – or even the addition of McDonald’s used grease – that’s most worrisome. It’s well documented that the FDA also allows 4D animals – that’s dead (as in roadkill dead), dying or diseased (as in anthrax) or disabled (as in mad-cow paralysis) as well as spoiled or contaminated meat to be used in pet food.

Recall the mad-cow epidemic in the late 1980s? It was determined that the cause of it was cattle (normally herbivores) being fed the remains of other diseased cattle (in the form of rendered down meat and byproducts). Nearly 4.4 million cattle were slaughtered in the eradication program that followed. But in October 2009, Mad Cow disease infected and killed another person showing that the disease is still lingering in the human food chain. So you would think your pet has got to be at much greater risk.

“Meat” and “By-Products” are in these popular treats:

Milk-Bones (Del Monte)

Pup-Peroni (Del Monte)

Busy Bones (Purina)

Moist n Meaty (Purina)

T-Bonz (Purina)

Beneful Snackin’ Slices (Purina)

Wheat, Corn, Soy, MSG, Refined Sugars & Artificial Sweeteners

Ever ask your vet why your seven year old dog is developing all these skin irritations and bumps? Or why she seems to have frequent bouts of intestinal upset? Here’s one good reason: she can’t digest the stuff she’s eating. Many dogs can’t digest wheat, corn and soy and some are allergic to these ingredients. Yet they’re included in food because they are cheap. Next time you pick up a 12 oz box of dog cookies for $3.99 retail consider how the manufacturer can make 12 oz of those treats for under $0.50.

MSG is included because it’s addictive, but like ethoxyquin you probably won’t find it on the label. If you see any type of “hydrolyzed” protein though, it likely contains MSG. MSG is believed to be a big culprit in the obesity epidemic in our pets (and ourselves). More than 50% of US dogs and cats are reportedly obese. MSG can more than triple insulin levels making even the most physically active animals fat.

The FDA says: “hydrolyzed proteins, used by the food industry to enhance flavor, are simply proteins that have been chemically broken apart into amino acids. The chemical breakdown of proteins may result in the formation of free glutamate that joins with free sodium to form MSG. In this case, the presence of MSG does not need to be disclosed on labeling.”

Refined sugars are added to pet food because dogs can taste sweetness. Yet sugar can cause obesity, dental problems and possibly diabetes. Artificial sweeteners are no good for dogs either and some are known toxins. The FDA still allows cancer-causing saccharine to be sold to humans and genetically modified ingredients to be undisclosed on labels. So chances are they’re not looking out for your pet.

Admittedly, artificial sweeteners and sugars can be hard to identify on a label when there’s a laundry list of six syllable words. But this can be our “‘Aha!’ moment.” If we don’t recognize it, should it really be ingested?

Here are a couple to remember: glycerin (aka glycerol) is a sugar substitute and filler, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate is an artificial sweetener with similar chemistry to Xylitol – and that one is known to be toxic to pets.

Wheat is in countless dog treats from the toxic ones to the junk-food treats. Here are a few of the popular treats that contain wheat and/or at least one of the other unhealthy ingredients in this category.

Milk-Bones (Del Monte)

Pup-Peroni (Del Monte)

Beggin Strips (Purina)

Waggin Train Jerky Tenders (ADI in China)

Busy Bones (Purina)

Moist n Meaty (Purina)

T-Bonz (Purina)

Beneful Snackin’ Slices (Purina)

The Goodlife Recipe (Mars, Inc.)

The Cancerous 5 Food Colorings, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Nitrite, Copper Sulfate and the Kitchen Sink

The list of additives from food coloring to artificial flavors and other preservatives is long. But why does there need to be food coloring in the treats we give our dogs.? Has a dog ever turn his nose up at a treat because it got a low score for plating and presentation?

Let’s do our dogs a favor; when we see red dye # this and yellow dye # that, let’s put the box back. It likely contains a ton of other toxins. The Cancerous Five Food Colorings, Titanium dioxide, copper sulfate, calcium proprionate, sodium bisulfite, propylene glycol, and zinc sulfate are just some of those hunks of junk. They can cause anything from gastrointestinal and skin disorders, to tumors and genetic disorders. And that’s just in the stuff humans and rats have reported. Who knows what our dogs feel.

Yellow #6, Blue #1 and #2, Red #3 and Green #3 are linked with cancer in animal testing. These are in Milk-Bones, Beggin Strips, Beneful Snackin Slices, and T-Bonz.

Titanium dioxide is a widely used white food coloring that’s also used for paints and plastics. Some prefer titanium in golf clubs not food. In food, it’s suspected of causing genetic disorders and lung tumors; in the clubs it simply causes humility.

Copper sulfate is an herbicide, fungicide and pesticide that’s also a known toxin no longer included in children’s chemistry sets because of health risks.

Calcium proprionate is a mold inhibitor. How did we get to be more worried about the mold than the chemicals?

Zinc sulfate will take the moss off your roof and kill the grass in your yard.

Sodium nitrite is linked with cancer and its in Beggin Strips and Pup-Peroni. Sodium nitrate is easily converted to cancer-causing compounds (called NOCs) and both sodium nitrite and nitrate have been linked with gastric cancer, esophageal cancer, and colorectal cancer. (Goodness Gracious uses uncured (nitrate/nitrite free) bacon in its bacon cheeseburger treats proving that manufacturers can make healthy and delicious stuff for dogs by simply choosing to do so.)

Sodium bisulfite (synthetic vitamin K also called menadione) is associated with liver toxicity, anemia, eczema, skin irritations, allergic conditions, and more and has been banned from food and supplements in Europe, and by the FDA in over the counter supplements.

And lastly, propylene glycol makes a darn good antifreeze and airplane de-icer, but any vet will tell you in the right amount it will kill your pet.

These popular treats contain these toxins:

Milk-Bones (Del Monte)

Beggin Strips (Purina)

Pup-Peroni (Del Monte)

T-Bonz (Purina)

Beneful Snackin’ Slices (Purina)

Moist n’ Meaty (Purina)

Busy Bone (Purina)

Wolves in captivity live 20 years. Their descendants – our dogs – live only a handful. Cancer is the #1 killer of our dogs; 50% of them die from it by some estimates. The toxins in their food are arguably a big contributing factor.

Our pets have a flaccid tongue; they can’t tell us that the Milk-Bones give them headaches or the Beggin Strips make their skin itch. They just know they’re hungry or they’ve done something good and this is their reward. Wag tail. Show belly. Give kisses.

So let’s make that reward something that they enjoy and that’s good for them. Today is the first day of the rest of your dog’s life. Remember, treat healthy and treat often. But if you can only do one of those things, then treat healthy. Your dog will make up the difference by living longer.

P.S. Do yourself a favor too. Spare yourself the gory details of what “mechanically separated meat” means on the label… Just stop eating the Slim Jims.

About the Author:

Amy Havens is the owner and founder of Goodness Gracious, LLC (www.GoodnessGraciousTreats.com). Goodness Gracious makes 100% human-grade dog treats and an all-natural tick repellent, and donates half of its profits to local animal shelters in communities where its treats are sold. You can find Goodness Gracious products in independent pet supply stores and upscale grocers in across the country and online . Amy lives in Marblehead with her husband, Tim, and their two red standard poodles, Grace and Lula.

Hounds for the Holidays! Keep Rover Safe!

2011-12-13T12:08:00.000-08:00

Holiday times can be joyful or a source of stress for all of us, and that goes for your dogs, too! With some advanced planning and a little training, you can make things more festive and fun for Fido and less stressful for you!

Things to Keep in Mind Throughout the Holiday Seasons
Dogs can be very sensitive to changes in their environment and routines. When family members take time off from work and school, house guests come to stay, or other visitors roll through the home in droves, you need to try to preserve a few of your dog’s routines, such as regular meal schedules and walks, exercise or play sessions.

If there’s considerably more activity than usual, plan some quiet times for your dog as well. The added stress and excitement of holiday festivities can increase your dog’s thirst too, so make sure your dog has plenty of fresh water to drink.

If your dog is the excitable or anxious type, he might benefit from an over-the-counter remedy, such as Rescue Remedy, to help keep him calm down and relax. Ask your veterinarian about his or her recommendations as well as how much you should use and how often. Comfort Zone DAP (Dog Appeasing Pheromone) can also help maintain your dog’s calm demeanor. DAP mimics the effects of a pheromone emitted by nursing female dogs, thought to calm the puppies. It can be delivered through a wall diffuser (similar to an air-freshener plug-in), a special collar impregnated with the substance, or can be directly sprayed on bedding or a bandana worn by your dog.

Holiday Décor: Dog Safety Issues
Holiday trappings help to maintain the merry mood but can be fraught with dangers for your dog. Here are some things to watch out for:

Christmas Trees

Tinsel, popcorn strands, and other garland-like decorations can cause serious internal injuries if ingested, and these are just the kinds of things that curious dogs can’t resist.

The ribbons, string, and other wrapping accessories found on gifts can be very problematic as well. These can lead to choking or strangulation for a curious pup.

Water at the base of natural trees can contain anti-freeze and other preservatives that are deadly to your dog.

All Christmas trees should be firmly anchored to the wall or ceiling to prevent it from being toppled by an inquisitive pooch.

If you can’t avoid all these things, try encircling your Christmas tree and gift display with an exercise pen to keep your dog away but still allowing you to enjoy your holiday cheer.

Electrical Cords

Make sure these cords are well-secured, so your dog doesn’t make a chew toy out of them. Consider using cord containers or running them through PVC to avoid having your dog chew on them when you cannot supervise it.

Snow Globes
While many are still made of glass, others can be found in chewable plastic with plastic bases. Chewed plastic shards from broken globes can be life-threatening. Many globes also add an anti-freeze-like substance to the water inside to slow the movement of the snow inside, so a double danger!

Scented candles
Candles can be attractive because of their smell, taste and texture. Make sure they are perched on high shelves out of Rover’s reach! Never leave a lit candle unsupervised as they are easily knocked over and quickly become a fire hazard.

Who’s at the Door?
No where does the average family dog get into so much trouble as at the front door! Inappropriate greeting behaviors, door-dashing, and just over-the-top excitement can make the front door a source of stress for everyone during the holidays. Here are some ideas for making the doorway a safer place:

Train polite greeting behaviors
Practice! Heavily reinforce ‘sits’ and ignore jumping up. Turning your back on a jumper can work very well too. For added control, tether your dog to a heavy stationary object to prevent him from following you or jumping on your back as you turn away. Practice with lots of different people and practice in your doorway area to make sure your dog knows it where he’ll need it! You can also teach your dog to wait behind a boundary line away from the door entryway or teach him to go to a particular place, like a dog bed, while guests enter the home.

A safe place
If you haven’t had time to train for all the comings and goings at the door, it’s always good practice to have your dog crated, securely fastened on a tether, or on a leash while guests are arriving or departing.

Taming the Mob
Entertaining guests can make the holidays merry, but it’s important to remember how visitors can be stressful for our dogs.

Avoid visiting pets
Unless your dog is already great friends with your visitor’s pets, it’s a good idea to suggest your guests leave their pets at home. Having multiple animals in the home presents management challenges you may not be prepared to handle amidst all the other distractions you’ll be facing.

Keep snacking to a minimum
Make sure your guests know not to feed your dog from the table. Lots of fatty tidbits handed out by well-meaning visitors can also lead to a dangerous bout of pancreatitis or intestinal upset. If your friends can’t help but offer your dog a treat (who can resist!), have a portioned supply of his special treats or even his kibble on hand that guests can use instead.

Clear the area!
Keep a watchful eye for plates and cocktails left at dog level. Since good intentions are prone to fail with so much going on, consider confining your dog to his crate or another room while your guests are bustling about (make sure he has something wonderful to do while he’s there) just to make sure he doesn’t get into trouble.

Dogs and kids don’t always mix!
Holiday gatherings can be very over-stimulating for dogs and kids alike, so never leave the dog alone with any little people, even his own kids. Interactions between the dog and kids should be strictly supervised by an adult who’s dog-savvy enough to know when your dog needs a break.
Finally, if your dog is prone to fearfulness, anxiety or over-excitement when company is around, his crate or private place is best to keep him calm and safe.

Train In Advance!
Great manners are always made, not born, and it can be fun to work with your dog on the life skills he’ll need to be the life of the party. Here are a few things you’ll want to incorporate into your training plan:

“Sit and wait” or “down and wait”
Great skills for your dog to learn! Taught positively, these exercises help your dog relax and enjoy his calm and relaxed participation in a family gathering. They can also prevent unruly door greetings and eliminate door-dashing.

“Place” or “go to bed”
This cue basically involves teaching the dog to proceed to a specified place and wait there for further instructions. Use this one to keep him away from the food table during meal times, which prevents begging and discourages guests from passing your pooch tidbits under the table.

“Leave it”
An invaluable tool for any dog owner and can help head off a dog who’s aiming for a gift basket, dropped food item, or just about anything else. Trained positively, your dog will gladly disengage from just about anything you’ve assigned a “leave it” to.

Counter-surfing counter-measures
Already confirmed counter-surfers should be confined away from the action, since the high temptation, high distraction environment of a holiday party will be more than they can bear! But if your dog still hasn’t scored off the counter yet, using “leave it” training will go a long way to helping your dog understand that counter-surfing doesn’t pay!

Bring on the noise!
Many holiday celebrations include noisy displays such as fireworks that can drive your dog batty. Start preparing in advance by playing fireworks sound effect recordings on your home stereo. Start the volume at a very low, almost imperceptible level until you’re sure that your dog is comfortable; then crank up the volume half a click. Continue progressing at that rate until bombs bursting in air are no big deal for your dog. If you have a dog who’s already acutely sound-sensitive, find a good trainer or behavior consultant with experience in this area to help you get ready.

References
DAP with Comfort Zone
Rescue Remedy
ASPCA Animal Control Poison Center 1-888-4-ANI-HELP
Premier’s Manners Minder
APDT.com

OUR CLASSES! Training Group Classes

2011-12-09T11:28:00.000-08:00

Training Bothe Ends of the Leash for over 25 years!

All of our classes are limited to 6-10 students. Theses small classes provide for individualized attention. Many classes are offered more than one day per week, allowing clients to attend one or both for the same fee. It's like two classes for the price of one. All classes are taught using only positive methods, including shaping and clicker (if owner perfers) training.

Our classes cater to your own personal needs and goals.

All classes listed below are also available in Private Lessons either at your home or at our training center.

All are offered on a rolling admission/open enrollment...allowing you to begin NOW! (pre-registration needed)

The class below are always available...they are offered year round, (excempt Agility)!

JOIN TODAY!

Manners 101
This 8-class provides the foundation, the building blocks for a great realationship! You and you pup learn all the basic skills needed. Sit, down, come, stay, walk politley on a leash, polite greeting of people and other dogs, and so MUCH MORE!

Ideal for puppies, young dogs, just recued/adopted dogs, all ages!

Meets: Tues and Sat.

Therapy Dog Class
This 12-week class focuses on preparing the handler and dog for any therapy environment. This class is ideal for both the novice and experienced handler.

Meets: Weds and Sat

Agility for Beginner and Intermediate
This 10-week class will allow you to explore the fastest growing dog sport. Learn skills with sequencing obstacles and the footwork needed to be successful in the sport of agility.

Meets: Warm weather months....

Trick, Targets and Games Oh My!
This on-going class will cover tricks such as roll over, play dead, wipe your nose and yes, READ . . and so much more.

Meets: Fri

Graduate Handling and Training
This 6-month class focuses on advanced skill building and using ultimate distractions while maintaining focus, advanced social skills--- all off leash! and so much more.

Meets: Sun

Off-Leash Extravaganza
This 10-week class is truly an off-leash class. It provides all the skills needed for off-leash handling and control.

Meets: Sun

Problem Solving Classes and Lessons
Maybe your dog is jumping on everyone or growling, begging, not coming when called, or acting aggressively toward other dogs or people. We help you find the needed solutions to these common issues that dog families face.

Meets: Customized to your schedule

New classes, including Scent Workshops, Frisbee, etc. starting all the time. Call for more information. 413-559-7011

Other Services
Overnight Care ~ Nail Trimming ~ Visit our Shoppe ~ Private Lessons
Board and Training ~ Residential Education
Workshops ~ Seminars

Naturally Fit --Free Workshop! Nov 20, 2011

2011-11-06T16:30:00.000-08:00

Special invite....
Leading the Way is proud to present

November 20, 2011 from 11:30-1:30 (snow date 11/27/11)

Naturally Fit .... Fitness all ages and stages of life.

This is a fun interactive workshop that offers a well defined primer of information which helps owners to build the right exercise and fitness program for theirdog. The program helps dogs, throughout all stages of their companions lives.

It allows owners to play with a variety of strength and proprioceptive training equipment, regardless of age to assure natural fitness.

Objectives:
-Assess if your pooch is Fit
-Determine how much exercise your dog should get for various stages throughout their life
-Determine the BEST exercises for your dog given their breed, issues and age
-Learn to be your dog's personal trainer this winter: Therapy balls, Bosu and balance boards

To register: please send a confirmation email including you Name, Phone number. Please let us know if your bring a dog and Number attending Please NOTE, dogs are well come who can sit/or be crated calmly during lecture. Limited to 12 handlers teams. Auditor welcome also.

Cost: free for Leading the Way clients. Our clients are welcome to invite friends.

About our Speaker: Jody Chiquoine is a Certified Canine Rehabilitation Therapist and a member of the American Canine Sports Medicine Association. She has completed canine rehabilitation courses with the Canine Rehabilitation Institute in Loxahatchie, Florida, the NorthEast Seminars/University of Tennessee Veterinary School and attends the International Canine Rehabilitation Conferences.
Jody has completed courses in canine massage, acupressure, Tellington Touch and the Basic Science Course for Animal Physical Therapists offered by the American Physical Therapy Association, Orthopedics Division.

The Fitter Critters Staff is educated in canine rehabilitation, principles of massage and aquatic therapy techniques. Consultant staff include: Physical Therapists, an orthotics specialist and a physiatrist (rehabilitation medical doctor).

Jody has been a registered nurse for 34 years and holds a Masters Degree in Nursing as a Family Nurse Practitioner with expertise in rehabilitation, cancer care, geriatrics and surgery.

Active in dog rescue and sharing her entire life with dogs, she offers experience, compassion and competent care to her clients.

Closed due to power outage

2011-10-30T15:57:00.001-07:00

WE ARE CLOSED Oct 31, 2011 DUE TO WINTER STORM AND POWER OUTAGE. We will re-open as soon as power in restored.

Closed due to power outage

2011-10-30T15:57:00.000-07:00

WE ARE CLOSED Oct 31, 2011 DUE TO WINTER STORM AND POWER OUTAGE. We will re-open as soon as power in restored.

Our Lecture Series

2011-10-06T08:29:00.000-07:00

Leading the Way presents…Our Lecture Series
We will be offering a Fall and Winter Lecture Series; each month we will cover a different topic. Each lecture will be held on a Sunday. These informative events will be detailed and hands on formats. You can pick one or two, or all. For those wishing to take advantage of the series, we are offering an all access pass, allowing you to enjoy all the lectures at a discounted cost. Leading the Way is proud to offer…..

Leash Success
Join us for this informative hands on workshop covering one of the most common issues pet owners have with their beloved dogs--leash pulling. During this mini-workshop, we will discuss the causes and provide the solutions to end the madness! This 1 hour workshop will consist of a variety of real-life situations you face everyday with your dog and the support and tools to solve and end the leash pulling. Space is limited and always fills up fast! Register today!
Oct 16, 2011 @ 11:30am-12:45 *******FULL! ACCEPTING WAITING LIST FOR NEXT CLASS TBA

Jumping for Joy!
Are you jumping for joy as your dog jumps on you or a guest….End the Rude Greeting Behavior! TODAY!! This hands-on workshop will cover the causes for jumping and other rude greeting behaviors while sharing the solutions needed to end the jumping and/or the clawing. We will also discuss the mouthing and bringing of “gifts”, i.e., shoes and other items dogs bring when we come home along with the hyper crazy behavior they show guests when they arrive at your home.

Special date offered before the holiday guests arrive!
Oct 23, @11:30am-12:45

Pet Emergency 101
This informative class will be based on American Red Cross Pet First Aid and taught by an experienced vet assistant with EMT skills. This hands-on class teaches the needed skills to deal with an emergency or animal injury and how to make your own first aid kit. Fee is $50 which includes class and refreshments provided.
(NO DOGS PLEASE) We will use stuffed animals and one real dog.
Nov.12 PLEASE NOTE ****SAT****, 2011 @11:30am-1:00

Make Your Own Dog Toys
In time for the holidays, we will be making dog puzzle toys, also known as canine brain toys. These fun toys will keep your dog entertained for hours. Come enjoy the company of other dog people as we create, talk and visit while making gifts for our dogs and our friends’ and families’ dogs.
Dec 11, 2011 @ 11:30am-1:00

Focus, Control and Recall EVERYTIME!©
This workshop is like two workshops in one! Learn to keep your dog’s focus, in any situation, including dog parks and around those pesky squirrels AND learn the skills and steps needed to successfully teach the “come” command with a hands-on, positive method.

Choose the time that works best for you:
Nov.20,2011 @11:30am-12:45
Jan 15, 2012 @ 11:30am-12:24

Please pre-register. Each lecture is just $35.
For “All Assess Lecture Pass” for our Fall Sunday Lecture Series, it is just $145 for all!

fall Poluck Gathering Update--- location change

2011-09-30T21:15:00.001-07:00

Our Fall Potluck Location is CHANGED to the Training Center.
With the weather being so unpredictable we thought best to have it at the training center.

Please Join us Oct 1, 2011 from 4-6 for an evening of food, fur and fun! Don't forget our Yankee Swap! For more info call or text us @ 413-559-7011

Treiball 2 day Event!!! 2 day Workshop!

2011-09-27T21:17:00.000-07:00

Lets Play Ball! Treibball 2 Day event!
Treibball is a sport where your dog is taught to follow commands to maneuver a large exercise ball (or smaller balls for the littler dogs) across a course and into a goal. Sound like fun? YOUR DOG WILL THINK IT'S THE BEST!!! Any dog can learn to do it and it's a great way to keep an energetic dog exercised in winter, for older dogs that are no longer able to do agility and still want to work, or just for fun.

In the first two hour workshop we will work on the basic skills needed for the game, such as teaching directionals, how to move the ball around, targeting, etc. In the second two hour workshop we will advance these skills to a new level. Each dog will progress at their own speed using positive reinforcement to keep it enjoyable.

Diane Gibbons has been training dogs for agility for over a decade and has two dogs with multiple championships, and three coming up through the ranks! She also competes in rally obedience, teaches triebball and clicker classes and is an instructor for the Monadnock Humane Society. She is the owner of Deep Down Dog, LLC. Diane is a graduate with distinction of the Karen Pryor Academy of Animal Behavior and Training.

Join us Oct 16 and Nov 13, 1-3pm This workshop will be held in South Deerfield. Pre-registration is needed. Just $100 if you pre-register by Oct 15 ($125 at the door) for this 2 day event, includes refreshments. Limited to just 6 handlers second dog welcome. rain or shine.

Hypoallergenic dogs don't have lower household allergen levels than other dogs, study finds

2011-09-02T12:45:00.000-07:00

Hypoallergenic dogs don't have lower household allergen levels than other dogs, study finds

ScienceDaily (2011-07-12) -- Contrary to popular belief, so-called hypoallergenic dogs do not have lower household allergen levels than other dogs. That's the conclusion of a study by researchers who sought to evaluate whether hypoallergenic dogs have a lower dog allergen in the home than other dogs. Hypoallergenic dogs are believed to produce less dander and saliva and shed less fur. ... > read full article

Stinkkyyy Dog! Remove the Skunk smell from your dog

2011-09-01T08:25:00.000-07:00

RECIPE FOR REMOVING SKUNK SMELL FROM YOUR DOG

You will want to use the following formula for removing the skunk smell from your dog: This formula removes the odor.

You will need the following from any local grocery or drug store:
• 1 QT. OF 3% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
• 1/4 CUP OF BAKING SODA
• 1 TEASPOON OF A "Dawn' LIQUID SOAP or other dish soap

MIX AND IMMEDIATELY APPLY TO YOUR DOG. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO GET THE MIXTURE IN YOUR DOGS NOSE, EYES ,EARS OR MOUTH.
LATHER UP REALLY GOOD (You can use cheap shampoo first just to get the suds going)
RINSE AND DRY OFF YOUR DOG. REPEAT, and if needed REPEAT

* Please note do not save this formula. The chemical mixture kept closed up can explode!

Oh, No my dog swallowed....emergency care

2011-08-31T08:19:00.000-07:00

How to Make a Dog Vomit Using Hydrogen Peroxide

WARNING! CONSULT A VETERNARAN PROFESSIONAL TO BE SURE THIS IS THE IDEAL SOLUATION FOR YOUR SITUATION.

We all know dogs love to put things in their mouths, to chew, to eat. Unfortunately, many items they eat out of curiosity can hurt them and, in some cases, cause death. Use these steps to make a dog vomit using hydrogen peroxide.

Instructions
Things You'll Need
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Sterile syringe
• Teaspoon
• Paper towels

1. Call your veterinarian immediately once you've determined your dog has eaten something dangerous. Call a veterinarian emergency clinic if your vet is not available. Take their professional advice first before you make a dog vomit using hydrogen peroxide.

2. Secure your dog OUTSIDE area,. Vomiting can start fast and outside is easiest to clean up. If possible ask someone to help you with restraint to make a dog vomit using hydrogen peroxide since the job isn't as easy for one person.

3. Give a small dog about 1 capful of hydrogen peroxide. Use the cap of a regular sized bottle of hydrogen peroxide--about a teaspoon full. Administer more--around 2-4 tablespoons--to a larger dog. OR fill a syringe so that you can use it to inject the liquid down into your dog's throat.

4. Wait patiently and quietly until your dog vomits. Know that it occurs soon after you give it hydrogen peroxide, but it can take up to five minutes. Look for foreign objects in the vomit and make sure your dog has expelled ALL of the dangerous items it swallowed. Repeat the procedure if nothing substantial comes up. Realize there may be nothing obvious to see if you are trying to help your dog eliminate a poison.

Tips & Warnings

• Call your vet and do not make a dog vomit using hydrogen peroxide if it has eaten something sharp or extra large (glass or whole tennis ball) since it will be worse for your dog to vomit these items up.

• Take your dog to your vet or an emergency pet hospital if they seem non-responsive, disoriented, confused or unconscious before doing anything else.

This weekends potluck is postponed

2011-08-27T12:32:00.000-07:00

Due to the storm we have postponed the schedule Summer Potluck.

The new date TBA!

Please be safe.

The training center/daycare is closed. We hope to re-open on Monday @ 7:30am. If there is electrical power. If the is no power in Florence for the safety of all we will remain closed until the power is restored.

Thank you for your understanding!
Melissa and Shannon

Question from Weds nights Skill Builder class: are dogs pack animals?

2011-08-02T19:26:00.000-07:00

Are Dogs Pack Animals?
written by jean donaldson
tuesday, 28 april 2009 09:04
When I first got into dog training, the mantra was “dogs are pack animals.” It was never questioned: dogs were strong bonding animals and fit into human families so well, sometimes to the point of developing bona fide disorders like separation anxiety. And a lot of behavior was deconstructed with social hierarchies in mind. Nobody examined what dogs do when they are not inserted into human families, i.e. are free-ranging. So a while ago I took a look at what is known about feral or semi-feral populations of dogs around the world. It turns out there are many such populations.

During the tenure of dictator Nicolae Ceaucescu, a poorly thought out reconstruction effort in Romania resulted in the demolition of thousands of houses and the relocation of thousands of families into small apartments throughout the country. For family dogs, this meant being turned out onto the street, where they have multiplied and eked out a marginal existence ever since.

A sad situation from every possible angle, the explosion of free-ranging dogs in Romania is an unintended experiment that challenges one of the most taken for granted aphorisms in the dog behavior world: that dogs are “pack animals.” The dogs in Romania have not formed packs. Their associations with one another are brief and casual: a couple of dogs may hang out together temporarily and then part company. Dogs are often drawn together by a scarce resource like a food source or estrous female but once this magnet is gone, they go their separate ways.

This contrasts with wolves who, while a genetically identical species to dogs, live in packs. As explained by University of Minnesota biologist David Mech, each pack is a nuclear family consisting of a breeding pair and their offspring. When the offspring reach maturity around two years of age, they disperse to avoid inbreeding depression and, if they live long enough, mate up and start their own packs.

The social lives of Romanian dogs may be the exception that proves the rule, so it’s necessary to examine all free-ranging populations in order to formulate a stronger hypothesis about dog social behavior.

Significant populations of free-ranging domestic dogs exist in sub-Saharan Africa, South America, India, Mexico, Tasmania (Cook Island Dogs), Hawaii, Bangkok and, in a situation paralleling that of Romania, in Moscow. Pariah dogs on the Indian subcontinent are thought to be the longest-running continuous population of feral dogs - on the order of 14,000 years, nearly as long as archaeological evidence has existed for domestic dogs.

There are cases of dogs buddying up with one or more dogs for days at a time, and dogs being drawn into proximity to each other by food sources, however none of the above populations form packs the way wolves do. Males, in fact, do not participate in the rearing of puppies, which is the foundation of a wolf pack. And, scavenging far outpaces hunting as primary food-acquisition activity, another difference from wolves, who hunt.

By contrast, the accounts regarding the social behavior of Dingoes are much more conflicting. Often the same source will in one paragraph say that Dingoes are primarily loners that only occasionally pack up with a few others to take down a large prey item and later state that Dingoes are pack animals with stable hierarchies, a la Gray Wolf. Recent genetics research has allowed for the teasing out of pure Dingoes from Dingo-dog hybrids most of the time. Interestingly, hybrids are often outwardly indistinguishable from pure Dingoes to an untrained eye. So to be generous, it could be that the disagreement between (and within) sources is partially due to some observations being of mixed ancestry animals and some of pure Dingoes.

A colleague of mine who has made trips to the Cook Islands to provide veterinary care to the feral dog population was struck by two things: the large numbers of short-legged dogs, and the absence of social cohesiveness. She fully expected and looked for packs, having heard and parroted for years, as have I, the party line of “dogs are pack animals.” Again and again, she witnessed what Dunbar has termed “loose, transitory associations” rather than packs.

If we are to support our contention that dogs are pack animals, we will need to account for these many populations where dogs, in the absence of the glue of human confinement and husbandry, simply do their own thing.

Pool Safety Tips...have a safe summer

2011-07-25T06:09:00.000-07:00

Swimming Pool Safety Tips

Yippee, Pool Party!
Your dog may take these words as an invitation to jump into the middle of kids playing “Marco Polo” or as her time to scout for crumbs under deck chairs.

Either way, some important water safety tips are in order because some dogs don’t like to swim and others shouldn’t.

Water Safety Example #1: One day Buddy, a Basset Hound, saw his English Setter friend, Spencer, on the far side of the pond. With a mighty leap, Buddy took off swimming toward the other bank. Buddy’s heavy body and stubby legs were not seaworthy.

Had Buddy not turned himself around, it could have become an emergency. Dogs will panic in the water and try to climb on top of a rescuer, so it is safer to throw them something that floats, like a life preserver on a rope, they can “grab.”

Water Safety Example #2: A nine-week-old Miniature Poodle barked frantically as her owners left in a rubber raft. She was unhappy to have been left on the shore. She jumped into the lake and headed for the raft. Her frightened owners turned the raft around and luckily the puppy followed them to land. She survived the incident better than her frantic owners.

The puppy incident could have been avoided if the pup had been placed within an Ex-pen for its safety, or had simply been taken on the raft with a life jacket. Never assume your dog will not try to follow you into water.

Some Water Safety Training Tips to Keep in Mind

Although not all dogs are fond of water, they should be exposed to it for their own safety. With some simple training and safety devices, you can ease your mind and protect your dog this summer.

•
Give him a gradual introduction into the pool or lake by holding him snugly and slowly walking into the water. Let him get wet a little at a time and eventually let him swim to the exit. Make it a positive experience with lots of encouragement and praise.
•
Teach proper swimming technique. All dogs will instinctively paddle when submerged in water, but as inexperienced swimmers, many dogs try to rely on their front legs and do little with their rear legs. This results in an almost vertical swim technique with lots of splashing. It’s exhausting and very easy for a dog to become over-tired this way. With proper training, the most vertical of swimmers can learn to use their rear legs, evening out their performance and swimming much more effectively and safely. Keep a close eye on your dog – if you see them become over-stimulated or fatigued, it’s time to call them out. If you see your accomplished swimmer dog lowering his rear, this is a sign that he is getting tired.
•
Dogs have poor depth perception so if the pool has steps, mark them with a big potted plant and make sure he associates the plant as the exit marker. If there are no steps, provide a non-slip ramp for getting out. Spend sufficient time training him to go up the ramp if he’s alone.
•
If your dog plays in a lake, make sure to stand at the place on the shore where he can easily walk out.
•
Always use a life jacket on your dog in ponds, lakes, rivers, or the open water. Just like with people, it’s easy for a dog to develop a cramp in a leg, become exhausted too far from shore, or in the case of rivers or oceans, overwhelmed by tides. Life jackets give your dog the extra protection to stay buoyant.
•
Keep safety floatation devices nearby, just in the case of an emergency. If your dog gets into trouble, a life preserver attached to a long line is the best course of action to take. Dogs panic easily in the water when trouble hits, and a panicked, flailing dog can accidentally drown any person trying to assist it. Get the dog to grab out to the preserver first and try to reel it in closer to shore before physically trying to help it out.
•
Training polite pool manners is a must. A big Golden Retriever sailing through the air in her excitement to get in the water is a no-no. Train the canine to “Wait” at pool’s edge or to always use the steps or the ramp.
•
Also teach her that the “Come” command applies to the pool as much as it does to dry land.
•
Be mindful of the specific needs of your dog’s breed. Each dog’s physical structure and body-type will greatly impact his swimming ability. Heavily muscled bully breeds exert more energy while swimming due to their increased body mass. Consider using a lifejacket with such dogs for added protection.
•
Watch your dog’s nails! Dogs can quickly wear their nails down to the point of bleeding as they excitedly race around the pool’s exterior. Keep a watchful eye on the pads of their feet as well. Repeated launching from pool steps can tear up paw pads; especially for dogs who spend most of their time on grass.
•
Unless your pool cover is solid and strong enough to support your weight, do not leave it on when your dog is unattended near the pool. Countless dogs, even accomplished swimmers, have lost their lives following an unexpected tumble into a covered pool. Once they’re in, the cover is disorienting and it’s almost always impossible for a dog to find his way out. If your dog needs to spend time in the yard unsupervised, consider erecting a pool safety fence.
•
Avoid letting your dog drink pool water. Always keep an ample supply of fresh water around so your dog can drink without attempting to drink from the pool. Also make sure you give your dog many opportunities to relieve himself after a swim as he is likely to ingest water from wherever he is swimming (pool, pond, lake or ocean) and may need to urinate more often.
•
Make sure you rinse your dog off after a swim to get chlorine and other pool chemicals, as well as bacteria or dirt he might get on him from a pond or lake. Don’t let your dog sit in a wet collar as hot spots can develop. Be mindful of areas where water can collect, like ears, groin, and armpits, where moisture-induced infections can occur.
•
If your dog is overweight or a senior, check with your veterinarian first before allowing him to swim. This is also important for dogs who are generally sedentary. Dogs, like people, experience muscle soreness and stiffness and they’re counting on us to lookout for their best interests.

Food Safety

2011-07-19T06:11:00.000-07:00

Food Safety...what you need to know to keep your dog safe

One good thing about dogs is that they’re not especially finicky. One bad thing is that they’ll eat just about anything. Unfortunately, that can include foods or other substances that may be potentially toxic.

Virtually any substance can be toxic to your dog if consumed constantly or at high dosage. Even if no adverse effects are immediately seen, that does not mean a certain substance is safe.

There are many myths about what is or is not safe or healthy for pets. Before getting on the bandwagon, keep in mind the commercial motives of those perpetuating the myth. Demand scientific evidence for the claims.

Dog foods to avoid
The following lists some of the substances for which there is credible evidence of toxicity at dosages your dog could conceivably consume:

Alcoholic beverages: Alcohol can cause gastrointestinal irritation, drunkenness, tremors, difficult breathing and/or panting, coma and even death

Avocados: Avocados can result in respiratory distress and the accumulation of fluid around the heart

Chives: If fed in excess, these can lead to GI upset and perhaps damage red blood cells

Chocolate: Chocolate can cause vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, hyperactivity and increased thirst, urination and heart rate

Coffee: Coffee (including the grounds and beans) can cause the same symptoms as chocolate

Grapes and raisins: Depending on the amount ingested, clinical signs can range from vomiting to life-threatening kidney failure

Spices: If fed in excess, these can lead to GI upset and perhaps damage red blood cells

Spoiled food: Spoiled food may contain food-borne pathogens, molds, and mycotoxins that can result in GI irritation, tremors, seizures, and death. All food, regardless of shelf-life claims, loses value and may grow toxins over time. Dogs CANNOT tell if a food is spoiled.

Onions: If fed in excess, these can lead to GI upset and perhaps damage red blood cells

Salt and salty foods: Excess salt and purified salt can result in sodium ion poisoning with symptoms of regurgitation, tremors, excessive thirst, diarrhea, high temperature and seizures. On the other hand, moderate amounts of natural salt can be healthy.

Tomato: Fruit is not a problem in moderation, but the leaves, stem and unripe fruit are. Ingestion of these can cause GI upset, excess salivation, drowsiness, dilated pupils, and weakness. The same symptoms can be seen with the ingestion of any green plant parts of the potato and many household plants;

Xylitol sweetener: This sweetener in candies and gum can also cause a fairly sudden drop in blood sugar, resulting in depression and seizures;

Yeast dough: Dough can be double trouble in that as it rises, the dough can expand the GI tract, possibly causing the intestine to rupture. The yeast can also form alcohol as it rises, leading to alcohol poisoning

Antifreeze, cleaning products and all household chemicals and drugs should be kept out of reach of pets. Some of these substances (such as antifreeze) actually taste good to pets and can cause serious illness and death.

Be sure to use caution with spicy foods, cooked bones, singular supplements, and virtually any commercial product fed continuously. Again, the principle to keep in mind is that variety is the spice of health. Since anything can potentially be toxic if fed in excess, varying the diet is the best safeguard. Even so-called 100% complete commercial diets have caused serious illness and death when fed exclusively.

If you think your cat may have ingested a potentially poisonous substance, immediately call your veterinarian. Be sure to let them know what she has eaten and how much, the estimated time of ingestion, if you know it, and any problems she is experiencing.

Puppy Summer Yummies....Doggone gooood

2011-07-18T07:07:00.000-07:00

Puppy Summer Treats!

Summer Dog Treats #1: Chicken Meat Pops
This is a summer dog treat that any canine will go crazy for. It's also very simple to prepare. To make this summer dog treat, simply combine low-sodium chicken broth, cooked hamburger meat, and brown rice. Then pour the mixture into popsicle molds or an ice cube tray depending on the size of your dog. This is a treat that should be enjoyed outside, because it will make a mess. You could place these summer dog treats in a zip top bag and take these to the park for your dog to enjoy on a hot summer day

Sweet Potato Freeze Ingredients:

1 Sweet Potato

Water

Ice cube trays or larger plastic cups (this can make the ice cubes a bit bigger for more fun)

Bake a sweet potato, let it cool, and then pop it in the fridge for a couple of hours. Once the potato has been chilled, peel the skin off and slice it into small pieces.

If you don’t want your dog to immediately remove the sweet potato, follow these steps:

Fill an ice cube tray half way with water and put it in the freezer for an hour. Then add the sweet potato pieces. Put it back in for another hour, and then fill the trays with water to the top. This keeps her busy a bit longer and makes it fun for her to try get to the sweet potato pieces.

Dogtini Ingredients:

Organic (or regular) low sodium plain chicken broth

Water

Ice cube trays

Mix 2 cups of chicken broth and 2 cups of water. Pour into an ice cube trays, and freeze. I usually make these once a week. The ice cubes have a chance to freeze overnight and then they areavailable to give to your dog whenever they seems thirsty, hot, or just as a little summer treat.

To make things fun, take a plastic martini glass and fill it with some of the ice cubes, then add a little water. You added a couple of small pieces of turkey hot dogs and a lime to garnish.

Enjoy.....

Our Summer Potluck...you are invited

2011-07-17T06:14:00.000-07:00

Let the fun begin....Mark your calendars!

Our Summer Potluck is Sat Aug 27, 6pm-8pm (rain date Sunday Aug 28) , this annual event is the highlight of the Leading the Way season. This seasons potluck will be held at our home. 40 South Main St. South Deerfield

We ask that everyone bring a dish to share with 10 people.

Using your dogs name (one of them)

A-G main dish

H-L side dish

M-Q drinks

R-Z Dessert

Also, we do a Yankee swap. This fun activity is enjoyed by all. To participate, bring a pet themed gift valued at $25 wrapped.

***** Please note this event is not for every dog. In the past this event has had as many as 25 or more dogs. With that in mind....shy fearful dogs may be overwhelmed. Others may may not be comfortable with the new people.

The fence is just a standard height of 4 feet. If your dog is known to jump or try to escape fences you may want to reconsider bringing your dog.

Safety is our biggest concern. Some dogs would enjoy being at home and you come and enjoy yourself. ***** we will also be providing a small dog play area. *****

New to Leading the Way please RSVP to leadingthewaydogtraining@yahoo.com

Heat Stroke! The facts....

2011-07-16T18:05:00.000-07:00

Heat Stroke
Summer is here, and it’s HOT outside! If you and your best friend will be spending time outdoors, make sure that you watch your dog closely for signs of overheating and heat stroke.

Many people don’t even realize that their dog is overheating. That happy, long tongue is letting you know your dog is HOT! Heat stroke is a very real danger for your dog and will cause nausea, loss of consciousness, brain damage, and even death. So, make sure your dog has access to a nice, shady place to cool off, with plenty of fresh water to keep him cool & hydrated.

When it’s really hot outside – even a casual walk can lead to heat stroke especially if your dog is older or out of shape. Keep your exercise routine to early morning or evenings when it’s cooler.

Never leave your dog in your car during hot weather. Dogs left in cars, even with the window cracked open, can overheat very quickly during the summer.

Here’s how to recognize heat stroke in your pet. If your dog is suffering from heat store, he will be:

•
panting excessively
•
have redness around his eyes
•
show signs of weakness
•
irritability
•
may start vomiting
•
collapse
You can try to cool him down by giving him cool water to drink – not cold water. Cold water may make him vomit.

Try to sponge him down with a cool wet towel or soak him in a tub of cool water and keep a fan on him. NEVER USE ICE TO COOL YOUR DOG-- no ice bathes, you can put ice in their drinking water. NEVER on the body.

In extreme cases where your dog’s gums are grayish, his tongue is blue, or he is unconscious, call your veterinarian. Severe heatstroke is an emergency, and you may need to make a quick trip to the veterinarian or emergency clinic.

Resources

To see how fast your car can get hot even with the window cracked open, visit www.mydogiscool.com

Information on heatstroke can be found atwww.peteducation.com

From APDT .com

Summer Classes and Workshops! Filling fast! Enroll TODAY

2011-07-15T06:17:00.000-07:00

Our Summer Schedule

Our Classes::

Manners 101: This is the foundation training for all ages. How are your dog's manners? This 8-week class covers basic commands including sit, come when called, and stay, among others. Skills covered include polite greetings, no begging, and no jumping, among others. This jam packed class is full of helpful information and participating in it will help you build a better relationship with your dog. It is just $160 for 8 weeks. It meets both Tuesdays and Saturdays. You can attend one day or both or alternate. It’s all up to you. Tuesdays 6-7pm and Saturdays 9:30-10:30am.

Skill Builder with the Experienced Handler: This class is ideal for the handler and dog with some experience under their collar that want to take their skills to the next level and improve their relationship. This group class covers relationship building skills. Many other things are covered, including improving your off-leash walking; come when called with intense distractions; distance work; advanced sits and downs and other commands; playing with the agility equipment. This wonderful class meets for 10 weeks. Fee is only $190. Limited to 8 handlers. Weds. 6-7pm, Saturdays 9:30-10:30am.

Therapy Dog Class: The focus of this class is on preparing the handler and dog for the therapy environment. This class is ideal for both the novice and experienced handler and will include field trips into the community to gain skills. Skills include working around medical equipment, loud noises, food, toys, and other distractions. Topics covered include stress and calming signals in dogs, infection control, medical ethics, general liability, and handling difficult visitation situations. This 12 week class is limited to 6 students. Fee is $ 210, Weds 7-8pm.

Agility for Beginner and Intermediate: This class will allow you to explore the fastest growing dog sport and take you and your dog’s skills to the next level. You and your dog will learn trust and teamwork as you progress in your skills with sequencing obstacles and learn the footwork needed to be successful in the sport of agility. Your dog will jump through tires, tunnels, and weave poles, walk up ramps and much more. This 5 week class is limited to 8 dogs. Fee is just $160. Meets on Thurs 6:45-7:45pm NOTE!! This class meets in SOUTH DEERFIELD. NOT FLORENCE Beginning Aug 4, 6:45-7:45! Only 3 spots remaining!!!!

Trick, Targets and Games Oh My!: This class will cover tricks such as roll over, play dead, wipe your nose and yes, READ! This is an on-going class and a collaborative effort type class. Class fee for 3 months is $150. Fridays 6:00-6:45 pm. Come join the fun! Open to all LEVELS & Dog Ages!!!!

Graduate Handling and Training: This class is for the most experienced handlers. It will focus on advanced skill building; ultimate distractions while maintaining focus; social skills and so much more. This wonderful class will explore a variety of training skills, theories and sports, including drill team, free style, Rally-O and agility. This class is open to students with the desire to improve and bond more with their dog, The fee is $600 for 6 months. Limited to 8 students. Meets on Sundays, 9:30-10:30am.

Off-Leash & Other Advanced Skills Extravaganza: This is truly an off –leash class. In fact, you will leave your leashes at the door. This class provides all the skills needed for off-leash handling and control. It is ideal for graduates of Graduate Handling or Experienced Handler. This full 12 week class is just $225 and meets on Sat 10:30-11:15 am. Beginning Aug 6, 2011 We meet in various locations in community. First class meets in Florence.

Workshops:

Canine Massage: discover the benefits and bonding of canine massage. This relaxing class teaches both beginning and advanced techniques. Ideal for all ages of dogs. Especially beneficial to shy and older dogs.

We are excited to welcome Linda Jackson back for another great workshop!

Aug 14 11:30-1, light snacks provided. FREE! our gift to you. Limited to 20 handlers.

Private massage sessions will also be available after the workshop for a small fee for both dogs and CHAIR massages for the humans. Just $25 for 20 glorious minutes... Of pure relaxation.

Linda Jackson, is a licensed acupuncturist with Master’s Degrees in both Education & Oriental Medicine. At The Centre for Acupuncture in Gt. Barrington, MA., she offers services in acupuncture, massage, herbal medicine to both people and their dogs. She also offers lifestyle coaching in exercise such as yoga & Qi Gong, meditation, breath and nutrition according to Oriental Medicine principles.

Linda has been in the holistic health field for over 30 years with an extensive background in holistic health, including Kripalu Center in Lenox, MA where she was a founding member, developer and instructor of programs in yoga, massage and health.
Linda has published, with co-author Jody Chiquoine, a popular book, "A Dog Lover’s Guide to Canine Massage". This book is a thorough workbook for dog lover’s to learn massage and stretching for their canine companions to keep them healthy and stress free. This book is a must for every dog owner and dog lover.

In her personal life, she continues her regular practice of meditation, yoga, Qi Gong and healthy lifestyle choices in order to continue to offer her services from personal experience. Linda’s interests are writing, photography and being outdoors as much as possible throughout the year. She enjoys kayaking, hiking, scuba diving and exploring nature with her dogs!

AKC Canine Good Citizenship Earning the CGC award will ensure that your dog is a well-respected member of your community. The Canine Good Citizen award is one of the first AKC certificates your dog can own and CGC provides an excellent foundation for all other training. Canine Good Citizen training is fun and useful. You’ll find that training for the CGC award will help you establish a closer bond with your dog. This workshop will include ample practice before the test at the conclusion of the workshop. Aug 20 11:00-1:00pm Fee is $35 (for current students just $20)

Focus, Control and Recall EVERYTIME™ On or Off Leash
This workshop is like two workshops in one. Learn to keep your dog's focus in any situation, including dog parks, around those pesky squirrels, learn come when called EVERYTIME ™and so much more. Fee is $55 and includes lunch and workbook. Limited to 5 students.
Sat Aug 27 11:00-2:00 Light refreshments served

Polite Greetings and Leash Walking Does your dog's pulling or jumping embarrass you? Or maybe you just want your arm back in its socket and the scratches on your legs to heal. Whatever your reasons for teaching your dog not to jump up during greetings, and to walk politely on leash, it's a great idea! Fee is $55
Sat Aug 27 2:15-4:15 Light refreshments served

All access pass is just $725, a savings of $225!

Summer Tips

2011-07-15T05:52:00.000-07:00

Summer Tips:

When it comes to the summer time heat and sunshine, make sure to follow some safety tips so your pet can join in the fun.

Even if it’s only for 10 minutes, don’t leave your dog in your car. Aside from being against the law in many states, even a few moments in the heat will turn your car into an oven. This can lead to dehydration, brain damage or even death, and even cracking the car window will not be enough to combat summer heat. You can visit the My Dog is Cool web site to see a chart on how fast your car can become overheated.

Often pet owners will shave down their dogs during the summer time, thinking this will help keep them cool. But ironically, shaving down a dog inhibits their ability to deal with the temperature change! So keep your dogs well groomed by removing all its dead undercoat hair, but remember not to shave them down in order to help them tolerate the summer sun. Your dog’s skin will also be at risk from the sun, so sunscreen is recommended. Make sure you use a sunscreen that is specifically made for your dog. Dogs that are shaved, have short white fur, or are hairless are most at risk of sun damage. Other areas of sensitivity are their noses and tips of their ears.

The blacktop street asphalt gets hot. Very hot! Walk your pet on the grass or on the sidewalk instead of on the street. Those hot black roads can hurt their paws. On days that your dog spends a lot of time outside, you’ll want to check the dog’s paws for sun damage and his fur for ticks. When checking for ticks, make sure you look under the tail, on their stomach, in their ears and between their toes.

Some simple training and safety devices can ease your mind and protect your dog this summer. For example, make sure to give your dogs treats and praise in order to positively reinforce being handled and having his fur and paws looked at. Practice this often so that your dog likes being handled! If you want to use doggie sunscreen on your pup, put it on while your dog is playing ball with you or doing another enjoyable activity so that your dog positively associates sunscreen application with good times

Last but certainly not least, always have plenty of water available for your dog! This will ensure that they keep cool and hydrated, which in turn will keep them healthy and happy this summer. From APDT.com

New Sport for all dogs!

2011-05-29T10:31:00.000-07:00

New Sport for all dogs! Gittel even enjoyed this new sport.....

Try Treibball! The New Herding Sport - No Sheep Required (whole dog journal)
This fun new sport replaces sheep with exercise balls to make herding accessible to any dog owner, anywhere!
Just when you think every possible canine sport has already been invented, someone comes up with a new one. This latest one is a humdinger, and it’s spreading like wildfire. If you haven’t already heard of treibball (pronounced “Try-ball” and also known as “Drive Ball”), you’ve been

Treibball (also known as “drive ball”) is a very new and very fun sport. Herding dogs are natural candidates, but so are any dogs that like to play with balls and dogs that enjoy shaping games. This is Kula, a two-year-old Weimaraner, learning the game at Sandi Pensinger’s training facility in Aptos, California.

Treibball is a terrific new way to play with your dog. The game consists of “herding” a number of large inflatable exercise balls into a soccer-like net. Of course the herding breeds come to mind, but it’s also great for many of the prey-oriented sporting dogs and terriers, and any other dogs who just like to chase things.

It’s a competitive sport for dogs of all ages and sizes. It promotes better teamwork and communication between a dog and his handler. It’s great fun for any energetic dogs who work well off-leash and need a job, dogs who like to chase stuff, or dogs who like to herd and don’t have sheep!

Treibball was developed by January Nijboer in Germany (“treibball” is variously translated from German as “blowing ball,” “drifting ball,” or “propelling ball”) as a game that would occupy herding dogs. Examples of treibball dogs in action aired a few months ago on YouTube and before you could say “Go bye!” the game went viral in the American dog training world – for good reason. A “flock” of exercise balls makes an inexpensive substitute for a flock of sheep, and doesn’t violate your neighborhood association’s rules, either.

Cool Treats indeed.......

2011-05-26T10:30:00.000-07:00

Fun Stuff....Coool Stuff!

Summer Dog Treats #1: Chicken Meat Pops

This is a summer dog treat that any canine will go crazy for. It's also very simple to prepare. To make this summer dog treat, simply combine low-sodium chicken broth, cooked hamburger meat, and brown rice. Then pour the mixture into popsicle molds or an ice cube tray depending on the size of your dog. This is a treat that should be enjoyed outside, because it will make a mess. You could place these summer dog treats in a zip top bag and take these to the park for your dog to enjoy on a hot summer day.

Summer Dog Treats #2: Ice Cream Sandwiches

Does your dog drool as you sit there and enjoy an ice cream sandwich, then why not make them one of their own? To prepare this summer dog treat, you can either choose homemade ingredient or store bought. If you choose to use homemade ingredients, you can find recipes online for dog biscuits and ice cream that is safe for dogs. If you choose to use store bought ingredients, you will simply need to buy large or small dog biscuits (depending on your pet's size) and Frosty Paws, which is found in the ice cream section. Simply spread the ice cream on the dog biscuits and freeze until solid. If you wanted to make them even fancier, you could dip the edges in a smaller dog treat or kibble. This is a fun summer dog treat because it gives your dog a lot of different flavors and textures to enjoy.

Summer Dog Treats #3: Chicken Cubes

This summer dog treat couldn't be any easier to prepare. Simply pour low-sodium chicken stock into an ice cube tray and freeze. The is the perfect summer dog treat because it's easy to make, but it's something you can feel good about giving your pet, because you know what's in it.

Summer Dog Treats #4: Fruit Cubes

Another easy summer dog treat is fruit cubes. Many people don't realize it, but dogs love fruit. The next time you tell your dog no, because you think they won't like fruit, give them a piece and see how it goes. Once you have determined what their favorite fruits are, puree the fruit, pour it into ice cube trays, and freeze. These are summer dog treat that you and your pet can both enjoy. If your dog loves bananas, simply slice bananas into manageable pieces and freeze.

Summer Dog Treats #5: Ice Cream Sundaes

As mentioned above, you can find recipes online for homemade ice cream that is safe for dogs or you can purchase Frosty Paws at your grocery store. Either way, you can create a fun summer dog treat using dog-safe ice cream. Simply place the ice cream in their dish and top with low-sodium gravy. If you prefer, Iams actually makes gravy for dogs that would work well with this summer dog treat. You could even crush up some kibble and sprinkle it on top of the sundae.

New Classes....Summer 2011

2011-05-23T10:21:00.000-07:00

Happy Warm Weather!!!

It's so wonderful to see green grass and feel a warm breeze after our long winter.

Our Daycare is enjoying the great weather too. Between our outside space and the fabulous wall of windows on both side allows for a great breeze. We love seeing the dogs with the noses in the air catching spring their way. The daily playgroup is such good friends, they just love hanging together. This spring there are some new fur-faces to add to the fun! As always we welcome all clients to take full advantage of our daycare. We offer drop in hours, PICK UP AND DROP OFF's service.

The shoppe just got some really great toys and some tasty new treats. We always welcome special orders. Save big! We don't mark up like the big chains. We have sqeekie tennis balls, and lights for dog's collar to keep them safe at night. We have liver, beef an chicken treats. Soft and crunchy treats too. We have leashes and collars and so much more.

Our classes are focused on your dogs natural skills and real life experiences.

Graduate Handler June-Dec this is the advanced class you have always wanted. It meets for 6 months.

Silence is golden...this class begins SUNDAY June 5 at 11:30-12 this class will meet until Aug 14

Tues 6-7 pm Manners 101, this is the foundation class for all dogs. Ideal for pups to adults dogs. This class is OPEN ENROLLMENT (allowing you to join at anytime.) also meets Tues 6-7. You may attend both classes if your schedule allows. 8 weeks $160

Tues 5-5:45pm. On the road again, this class will meet for the 8 weeks Beginning June 21. This class will meet in all weather. We will work the in the parks and on the bike paths. Also work in Florence and downtown Northampton. This jam packed class is just $160. Limited to 5 handler teams

Weds: 6-7 pm Skill Builder /Experienced Handler this is the next step in any dogs bonding and education. More advanced skills and command are covered in including "go to bed/mat", drop on recall, pre-off leash skills, and so much more. If you are looking for a challenging class using real life situations to allow for more bonding and skill gained. A ten week class. 10 weeks for $190

Weds: 7-8 pm Thearpy Dog Skill Class
Gain the skills to become certified Thearpy Dog Team. We also provide AKC CGC testing for all teams. This is a must for all aspiring to become Thearpy Dog team in a variety of therapeutic settings. Open enrollment class meets for 10 weeks for $190

Friday NEW TIME 6-6:45 pm TRICKS.... Club!!! Learn to roll over, play dead, teach your dog to read! Math tricks, walk backwards and so more. 3 months for $150

Sat 9:30-10:30 NEW TIME (beginning June 4th) Manners 101, this is the foundation class for all dogs. Ideal for pups to adults dogs. This class is OPEN ENROLLMENT (allowing you to join at anytime.) also meets Tues 6-7. You may attend both classes if your schedule allows. 8 weeks for $160

Sat Reactive Dog 10:45-11:45 am this class is for dogs who have fear, phobias or have shown aggressive type behavior towards people or other dogs. PRE-ENROLLMENT INTERVIEW MUST BE SCHEDULED PRIOR TO BEGINNING! please!! This special class, with proven success! Fee $350 for lifetime enrollment.

Our Doggie DayCare! Your Dog could be having this much fun

2011-04-03T10:25:00.000-07:00

Practice makes perfect...

Everyone gets into the FUN!!

Our younger staff providing the best snuggles...

Is your dog making you jumping mad?....

2011-04-01T10:11:00.000-07:00

First step is understanding....Before you begin to stop any behavior you should try to understand why it is happening. Jumping on humans to a dog is a friendly gesture. It says I am no threat, I want to be friendly with you. This lesson will give you the tools to change the behavior yet allowing your dog to achive the same goal.

The second step to stop dog jumping understands that you will also need to train yourself, and your family members and most common house guests. You (and they) need to be aware of how to react and how not to react to this behavior. The last thing you want to do is pull your dog down or yell at him

Lesson: How to stop the jumping
Fortunately the process of training a dog not to jump on people is relatively simple, although it can be time consuming. Naturally, you will start with yourself. You will have to teach them to “sit” before you can begin. Once your dog can “sit”, on command you are ready to begin. THIS BEGINS THE SECOND YOU WALK INTO THE HOUSE, EVERYDAY, AND EVERYTIME.
1. First remember when using the “SIT” command speaks firmly but without yelling.

2. SAY SIT (no more than 2 times) Show the dog treat in your hand if you need to. As your dog approaches you or a guest say “SIT” (guests should say SIT, the person the dog is greeting MUST be the one to say sit. NOT THE OWNER. )
TROBLESHOOTING: If you dog does not sit, repeat the command up to 2 times no more then if you still do not have a sit, show the treat and use the SIT lure hand motion to achieve the desired behavior.

3. Reward for the SIT, give a treat. REMEMBER to be careful not to give the treat until he is at a full sit for at least 5 seconds (count in your head).
If you give the treat too soon, he'll think it is being given for jumping so he'll simply repeat the behavior. Just the opposite of what we want! Remember your dog thinks he's being friendly not aggressive. He really thinks you will like this. So it is essential that he understands he is being rewarded for sitting and not jumping.

As we mentioned, this may take a little more time than most training procedures simply because to him, jumping is both friendly and natural. His instinct is to be friendly and to want to play. And he loves being rewarded for it. Give your dog plenty of play time, but not when he jumps up on you. It's hard not to cuddle, hug or laugh with him as he jumps when you come home. But you have to hold back. You may even like it, but if you give approval and affection for this behavior, he'll have a hard time understanding that strangers and guests will not feel the same.

Now you'll need the help of family members and frequent guests. They need to know that they should not play with him when he jumps, and they also should not push him off. Your dog will likely see this pushing off behavior as playing. Instead, they should stand still or move sideways. Your dog will learn not to jump. They probably already know Fido will jump of them when they arrive, so they need to know not to react to him. It won't be long before Fido understands not to jump.

We do realize that this will be difficult for one of two reasons. First the person being jumped on may be nervous. Or second, they may want to play with the dog. And this is where the training can bog down. It may be best to keep these people away until the training is complete. Doing otherwise will only serve to confuse your pet, which in turn, will slow the training down.

Don't confuse him and it will be relatively easy to stop dog jumping. Give him the sit command and reward him when he doesn't jump. The less confusion there is, the faster the training will go. If you are consistent, and everyone is doing the same thing, it will be pretty quick training. And once you stop a dog from jumping, you and your guests will be happier. Fido will be too.

Long-Term Health Risks and Benefits Associated with Spay / Neuter in Dogs

2011-03-31T04:55:00.000-07:00

Long-Term Health Risks and Benefits Associated with Spay / Neuter in Dogs Laura J. Sanborn, M.S. May 14, 2007 Precis

At some point, most of us with an interest in dogs will have to consider whether or not to spay / neuter our pet. Tradition holds that the benefits of doing so at an early age outweigh the risks. Often, tradition holds sway in the decision-making process even after countervailing evidence has accumulated. Ms Sanborn has reviewed the veterinary medical literature in an exhaustive and scholarly treatise, attempting to unravel the complexities of the subject. More than 50 peer-reviewed papers were examined to assess the health impacts of spay / neuter in female and male dogs, respectively. One cannot ignore the findings of increased risk from osteosarcoma, hemangiosarcoma, hypothyroidism, and other less frequently occurring diseases associated with neutering male dogs. It would be irresponsible of the veterinary profession and the pet owning community to fail to weigh the relative costs and benefits of neutering on the animal’s health and well-being. The decision for females may be more complex, further emphasizing the need for individualized veterinary medical decisions, not standard operating procedures for all patients.

No sweeping generalizations are implied in this review. Rather, the author asks us to consider all the health and disease information available as individual animals ar evaluated. Then, the best decisions should be made accounting for gender, age, breed, and even the specific conditions under which the long-term care, housing and training of the animal will occur.

This important review will help veterinary medical care providers as well as pet owners make informed decisions. Who could ask for more?

Larry S. Katz, PhD Associate Professor and Chair Animal Sciences Rutgers University New Brunswick, NJ 08901

INTRODUCTION
Dog owners in America are frequently advised to spay/neuter their dogs for health reasons. A number of health benefits are cited, yet evidence is usually not cited to support the alleged health benefits. When discussing the health impacts of spay/neuter, health risks are often not mentioned. At times, some risks are mentioned, but the most severe risks usually are not. This article is an attempt to summarize the long-term health risks and benefits associated with spay/neuter in dogs that can be found in the veterinary medical literature. This article will not discuss the impact of spay/neuter on population control, or the impact of spay/neuter on behavior.

Nearly all of the health risks and benefits summarized in this article are findings from retrospective epidemiological research studies of dogs, which examine potential associations by looking backwards in time. A few are from prospective research studies, which examine potential associations by looking forward in time.

SUMMARY
An objective reading of the veterinary medical literature reveals a complex situation with respect to the longterm health risks and benefits associated with spay/neuter in dogs. The evidence shows that spay/neuter correlates with both positive AND adverse health effects in dogs. It also suggests how much we really do not yet understand about this subject.

On balance, it appears that no compelling case can be made for neutering most male dogs, especially immature male dogs, in order to prevent future health problems. The number of health problems associated with neutering may exceed the associated health benefits in most cases.

On the positive side, neutering male dogs
• eliminates the small risk (probably <1%) of dying from testicular cancer
• reduces the risk of non-cancerous prostate disorders
• reduces the risk of perianal fistulas
• may possibly reduce the risk of diabetes (data inconclusive) On the negative side, neutering male dogs
• if done before 1 year of age, significantly increases the risk of osteosarcoma (bone cancer); this is a common cancer in medium/large and larger breeds with a poor prognosis.
• increases the risk of cardiac hemangiosarcoma by a factor of 1.6
• triples the risk of hypothyroidism
• increases the risk of progressive geriatric cognitive impairment
• triples the risk of obesity, a common health problem in dogs with many associated health problems • quadruples the small risk (<0.6%) of prostate cancer
• doubles the small risk (<1%) of urinary tract cancers
• increases the risk of orthopedic disorders
• increases the risk of adverse reactions to vaccinations

For female dogs, the situation is more complex. The number of health benefits associated with spaying may exceed the associated health problems in some (not all) cases. On balance, whether spaying improves the odds of overall good health or degrades them probably depends on the age of the female dog and the relative risk of various diseases in the different breeds. On the positive side, spaying female dogs

• if done before 2.5 years of age, greatly reduces the risk of mammary tumors, the most common malignant tumors in female dogs
• nearly eliminates the risk of pyometra, which otherwise would affect about 23% of intact female dogs; pyometra kills about 1% of intact female dogs
• reduces the risk of perianal fistulas
• removes the very small risk (0.5%) from uterine, cervical, and ovarian tumors On the negative side, spaying female dogs
• if done before 1 year of age, significantly increases the risk of osteosarcoma (bone cancer); this is a common cancer in larger breeds with a poor prognosis
• increases the risk of splenic hemangiosarcoma by a factor of 2.2 and cardiac hemangiosarcoma by a factor of >5; this is a common cancer and major cause of death in some breeds
• triples the risk of hypothyroidism
• increases the risk of obesity by a factor of 1.6-2, a common health problem in dogs with many associated health problems
• causes urinary “spay incontinence” in 4-20% of female dogs
• increases the risk of persistent or recurring urinary tract infections by a factor of 3-4
• increases the risk of recessed vulva, vaginal dermatitis, and vaginitis, especially for female dogs spayed before puberty
• doubles the small risk (<1%) of urinary tract tumors
• increases the risk of orthopedic disorders
• increases the risk of adverse reactions to vaccinations One thing is clear – much of the spay/neuter information that is available to the public is unbalanced and contains claims that are exaggerated or unsupported by evidence.

Rather than helping to educate pet owners, much of it has contributed to common misunderstandings about the health risks and benefits associated of spay/neuter in dogs. The traditional spay/neuter age of six months as well as the modern practice of pediatric spay/neuter appear to predispose dogs to health risks that could otherwise be avoided by waiting until the dog is physically mature, or perhaps in the case of many male dogs, foregoing it altogether unless medically necessary.

The balance of long-term health risks and benefits of spay/neuter will vary from one dog to the next. Breed, age, and gender are variables that must be taken into consideration in conjunction with non-medical factors for each individual dog. Across-the-board recommendations for all pet dogs do not appear to be supportable from findings in the veterinary medical literature.

SEE ENTIRE ARTICLE AT: http://www.naiaonline.org/pdfs/LongTermHealthEffectsOfSpayNeuterInDogs.pdf

Positive Reinforement Training takes Best in Show

2011-02-20T00:09:00.000-08:00

by Larry Kay .... http://www.pawnation.com/2011/02/17/praise-your-dog-like-a-westminster-best-in-show-c/

It's not just the Westminster Best in Show 2011 winner, who thrives under praise. Paw Nation interviewed more than two dozen Westminster Dog Show handlers, owners and officials and found that every one we spoke with uses positive reinforcement dog training, in which praise is emphasized and bad behavior is mostly ignored.

The biggest name in the dog world right now, Scottish deerhound Hickory, is busy taking in the adoration and good wishes of not just the fans at the Westminster Dog Show but animal lovers all over the world. Fortunately, she's had good training for all the attention from the likes of Martha Stewart and more. She became the champion she is today mostly because of the guidance and positive encouragement of handler Angela Lloyd.

"Praise is the key to get inside a dog's head and heart," says Lloyd, who believes that dogs respond magnificently "if you are going to show them unconditional love."

Lloyd's mother, Gwen Plush says that her daughter has become a champion because she "bonds with the animals she shows. She understands them and they love her." Lloyd, now 31, has been going to dog shows since she was a child and in 1998 earned the Westminster Show's Junior Showmanship title.

What the Westminster Experts Say
Thomas Bradley, the Westminster Dog Show's chairman for the past 10 years, says that "positive reinforcement has been on the rise for quite some time." Bradley says that, as far as he knows, new methods among elite show dog handlers are all based in positive reinforcement.

Make a Game of It - Westminster Junior Showmanship competitor 17-year-old Sarah Broom has shown her champion basset hound, Castle Hill's Never Too Rich CD, nicknamed Nicole, at Westminster for the past two years. Broom learned to train and handle dogs in the 4H Club and says, "It's better to tell your dog what she does right." Broom makes the long hours of training more fun with games and toys. She believes that positive reinforcement is the best way to properly train any dog, show dog or not. She has also trained Nicole to be a companion dog, and together they help at-risk kids read in school programs.

Ignore Bad Behavior - Virginia Baxter, a rookie Westminster trainer and handler uses only positive reinforcement with 3-year-old bull terrier Ch. Dogmore's Delight, nicknamed Cricket. "I don't believe in forceful methods," says Baxter, scratching Cricket behind the ears. Instead, Baxter advises, "Ignore what a dog doesn't do right." Cricket, in addition to being a champion show dog is also a certified therapy dog that goes to hospitals.

Some Praise Everything - Veteran Westminster handler Michael Kemp has shown champion dogs for decades and has won Westminster's Best in Show, Best in Group, Best in Breed, Best of Opposite Sex and dozens of other ribbons. How does he do it? "I use as much positive reinforcement as possible." That means Kemp praises the dog for everything she does, even the wrong things.

"I tell them they're good so much that they respond to everything," Kemp says. "I don't force them. I encourage them to show their best." In fact, one champion dog Kemp handled "made a career out of being bad. Instead of trying to make her good, I praised her for being bad, even when she misbehaved." That dog, a bichon frise named Ch. Devon's Puffenstuff, won Best in Group at Westminster two years in a row, Kemp says, "because she was so vivacious." He recommends that family dog owners should simply "trust the dogs to do their thing." He says that it's best to "let dogs use their brains" and that owners should "make something good out of whatever they do."

Different Kinds of Training
There are variety of positive reinforcement methods. All trainers emphasize voice praise. Some trainers also use a clicker, which Bradley notes has increased in recent years. Some trainers use treats, while others do not. Pat Crowley has handled show dogs at Westminster for 31 of the past 35 years, and though she prefers not to use treats, she does use voice praise and believes in the power of positive touch. "Positive reinforcement is all I use," she says.

Winter Early Spring 2011

2011-02-02T16:13:00.000-08:00

Upcoming Dates:
Feb 6 11:30-1, Pills, Nails, Ointment oh my... This jam packed workshop is led by Kristen Neal, she is a surgical technician at Dakin Pioneer Valley Spay & Neuter Clinic, we are so excited to have her back. You will learn how to give medication, apply eye ointment, clean ears, trim nails and so much more... This FREE workshop is open to ALL. Please NO DOGS! You are welcome to RSVP, but not needed. Invite friends, family all are welcome!

Winter-Early Spring
Pre-Registration is needed... For all classes, call or email to register.

Sun:
9-10 Graduate Handler
(at present: not accepting students) this 6 month course is for dogs and their people wishing to achieve the ultimate in communication, obedience, skill and safety. This class goals: are total off leash control, both verbal and hand signal control, 20 mins sit/down stays. Experimenting with the very latest in human and dog communication. Highest skills/manners are achieved in this class.

10-11 Social off leash play group, MUST BE TEMPERAMENT TESTED PRIOR

11-11:30 Silence is golden: this new class is for those wanting to hone there skills and communication with their dogs in the dogs most ideal approach SILENTLY using only body language. This 8 week class is just $160, beginning Feb 20, 2011 LIMITED TO 5 handlers

Monday NO group classes. Private lessons welcome

Tuesday: (and Sat: 9-10 am)
6-7pm Manners 101, this is an open enrollment- on going class. During this jam packed 8 weeks we cover all the basics: sit, down, come, stay, wait, and leave it and more. We cover leash manner, polite greeting, counter surfing, chewing, puppy biting and a lot more. Your are invited to both Tues and Sat classes for just one enrollment fee of $160. New students can begin anytime.

7-8 jumps, tunnels, weaves and fun: have fun learning the foundation of agility. This 6 week class is introduction to fastest growing dog sport in the world. During our classes we will explore a variety of obstacles in the sport along with the beginning of handling needed. Cost is only $150. Beginning Feb 22, 2011

Wednesday:
6-7 pm Skill Builder/Experienced Handler: this 10 week class is the next step for those with some experience under their collar. Join anytime, open enrollment. Cost just $190

Weds: 7-8 pm Therapy Dog, this class will prepare the dog and handler for working in a variety of therapeutic environments. During this class we focussing on safety K-9 manners. We will also discuss the the many layers of therapy dog work. Ideal for dog 8 months and up, with graduations from Manners 101 (exception may be made with prior approval) just $190 for 12 weeks, beginning Feb 23, 2011

Thurs: no classes

Friday: 5:45-6:30 Tricks Club: you and your dog will learn while having a blast. This weekly class we learn play-dead, roll over, math trick and even reading. Words do not due this class justice, come watch you sure to want to join. Just $150 for 3 months

Sat: 9-10 am (and Tues 6-7pm)
6-7pm Manners 101, this is an open enrollment- on going class. During this jam packed 8 weeks we cover all the basics: sit, down, come, stay, wait, and leave it and more. We cover leash manner, polite greeting, counter surfing, chewing, puppy biting and a lot more. Your are invited to both Tues and Sat classes for just one enrollment fee of $160. New students can begin anytime.

Workshops: OUR ONE -DAY WORKSHOPS

Focus, Control and Recall EVERYTIME ™ and Counter Surfin: Saturday 12 at 10:00-11:30am. Learn to keep your dog’s focus, in any situation, including dog parks, around those pesky squirrels; learn Come When Called EVERYTIME ™and so much more. Fee is $40. Limited to 5 students.

Polite Greetings, Leash Walking and Too Much Barking: Sunday FEB 27 at 11:00-12:30 pm. Does your dog's pulling or jumping embarrass you? Or maybe you just want your arm back in its socket and the scratches on your legs to heal. Whatever your reasons for teaching your dog not to jump up during greetings and to walk politely on leash, it's a great idea! Fee is $40 Limited to 5 students.

Jumps, Weaves and Tunnels: This workshop will allow you to explore the fastest growing dog sport and take you and your dog’s skills to the next level. You and your dog will learn trust and teamwork as you progress in your skills with sequencing obstacles and learn the footwork needed to be successful in the sport of agility. Your dog will jump through tires, tunnels, and weave poles, much more. (Dogs must be a minimum of 5 months of age to jump at the proper height for health and safety reasons) This 1 day class is limited to 6 dogs. Meets on Sat in TBA from 11-12:30 just $15!

CGC ONE DAY! This 1 day prep class and test for thr AKC Canine Good Citizenship Earning the CGC award will ensure that your dog is a well-respected member of your community. The Canine Good Citizen award is one of the first AKC certificates your dog can own and CGC provides an excellent foundation for all other training. Canine Good Citizen training is fun and useful. You’ll find that training for the CGC award will help you establish a closer bond with your dog 1 day class meets Sat FEB 19 11am-12:30pm the fee is only $30, includes the test! EMAIL ME IF INTERESTED!!! Invite your friends! Open to all!!!

OUR 2-DAY WORKSHOP
Sat-Sun:
Therapy Dog Weekend Workshop: The focus of this weekend is on preparing the handler and dog for the therapy environment. This 2-day workshop is ideal for both the novice and experienced handler and will include field trips into the community to gain skills. Skills include working around medical equipment, loud noises, food, toys, and other distractions. Topics covered include stress and calming signals in dogs, infection control, medical ethics, general liability, and handling difficult visitation situations. Beginning Sat-Sun MARCH 26-27 this workshop is just $140. Limited to just 5 teams We will meet from 10-4 both days.

The whole Sha-bang: this Weekend Behavior Workshop covers is all! Polite Greeting, Leash Walking, Barking, Off-Leash Control, and Counter Surfing and behavior in public: this JAM packed class. Sat-Sunday 11-4 both days. Fee is just $160 for the entire weekend Limited to 5 handlers. March 19-20

CLASSES CANCELLED! TUES AND WEDS due to winter storm!

2011-02-01T03:17:00.000-08:00

Sorry for an inconvenience, with the blizzard conditions we feel its safest to cancel all classes. BOTH TUES FEB 1 AND WEDS FEB 2! the classes will be made up...

Have a safe and warm snow days

Holiday Safety

2010-12-06T09:08:00.000-08:00

We want the holidays to be a happy time for you and your pet, not a time for an emergency visit to your veterinarian. The food and decorations that make the holidays so much fun for us can be dangerous for your pet. We do not want this article to dampen your holiday spirits, but we do want you to be aware of the dangers and plan carefully to avoid these potential hazards.

Food - Related Items

Holiday foods we enjoy cooking and eating can be a problem for your pet.

Rich, fatty foods, like gravy or grease, can cause problems ranging from stomach upsets to pancreatitis, which is an inflammation of the pancreas resulting in pain, vomiting, and dehydration. Dogs with this serious condition often require hospitalization for treatment.

Alcohol can cause serious intoxications in pets, and many dogs are attracted to it. Every year hundreds of dogs die after a single bout of alcohol consumption. Clean up glasses after holiday parties. Dogs are often attracted by the sweet taste of drinks, especially eggnog.

Chocolate, coffee, and tea all contain dangerous components called xanthines, which cause nervous system or urinary system damage and heart muscle stimulation. Chocolate, with theobromine, is especially a problem because dogs love its flavor. Problems from ingestion range from diarrhea to seizures and death. Unsweetened baking chocolate and dark chocolate are the worst culprits, but all chocolate, fudge, and other candy should be placed out of your dog's reach.

Uncooked meat, fish, and poultry can contain disease-causing bacteria, such as E. coli, and parasites such as Toxoplasma gondii. These uncooked foods should not be given to your dog. For your own health, as well as your pet's, wash utensils that have been in contact with raw meat, and cook meat thoroughly.

Bones from fish, meat, or poultry can also cause problems if swallowed. Even small bones can splinter causing lacerations (tearing) throughout the intestinal tract. So, no matter how big or how little they are, be sure to keep bones (other than those that are specially sterilized and treated) away from your dog. Rawhides, Kong toys, and hardened, sterilized bones would be better alternatives.

Tobacco products can be fatal to pets, if ingested. Signs of poisoning develop within 15 to 45 minutes and include excitation, salivation, vomiting, and diarrhea. Pets may develop seizures, collapse and die from cardiac arrest. Keep cigarettes, cigars, tobacco, nicotine gum and patches, and ashtrays out of the reach of pets. Empty ashtrays frequently since cigarette butts contain about 25% of the total nicotine in a cigarette.

Uncooked yeast dough can expand and produce gas in the digestive system, causing pain and possible rupture of the stomach or intestines.

Grapes and raisins contain an unknown toxin, which can damage the kidneys.

The artificial sweetner, xylitol, that is present in some gums, breath mints, candy, and other human food can be very toxic to dogs.

Macadamia nuts contain an unknown toxin, which can affect the digestive and nervous systems and muscles of dogs.

Remember, dogs have an exceptional sense of smell – juices on plastic or aluminum foil left on countertops are very tempting. If ingested, plastic or foil wrap (cellophane candy wrappers or food wrap) can cause choking or intestinal obstruction.

Meat-soaked strings from rump roasts are also enticing. Ingestion can cause a surgical emergency called a 'linear string foreign body' in the intestines.

To be safe, put away food immediately, and pet-proof your garbage. Garbage contains all kinds of other hazards for your dog such as plastic wrap and bags, 6-pack beverage holders that could cause strangulation, fat trimmings, bones, and pieces of ribbon or tinsel.

Feed your pet(s) before a party so they will not be so apt to beg or steal food.

Poisonous Plants

We all like making our homes more festive for the holidays. We enjoy the green foliage and colorful flowers of plants. Unfortunately, many of the plants we have in our homes during the holidays can be poisonous to pets. If ingested, holly (leaves and berries) causes stomach upset and can be potentially fatal to both dogs and cats. Mistletoe upsets stomachs and can cause heart collapse, while hibiscus may cause diarrhea. Poinsettias have an irritating sap that can cause blistering in the mouth and stomach upset. So when you brighten up your home, place these plants well out of your dog's reach, or use imitation holiday plants.

Decorations and Wrappings

All that glitters is not gold – it could be dangerous for your pet.

Ribbons, yarn, and string can cause intestinal obstruction and bunching of the intestine along the length of the string. These conditions require surgery and can be fatal. Ribbons around your dog's neck may be cute, but they can also be dangerous.

Adhesives and glues can be toxic and are often attractive to animals.

Potpourri contains oils that can be toxic to dogs if eaten. We may not think of eating it, but some curious pets may.

Candles can cause burns and fires. Never leave lighted candles unattended or within reach of your pet.

Few things are more tempting to a playful dog than a game of tug. This is not a good game, however, to play with the end of a tablecloth. Try to keep items such as tablecloths, table runners, etc., from hanging too low to the floor, and tempting happy dogs running by to grab an end and pull!

Gifts Under the Tree

Rawhide or other edible items left under the tree can be very tempting, and remember that companies often package rawhide or other pet gifts wrapped in ribbon. Make sure to remove ribbons or ties before you present gifts to your dog. If played with and swallowed, yarn, ribbon, or string on gifts can cause intestinal obstruction, requiring surgery.

Perfumes and after-shaves contain ethanol (alcohol) and perfume also contains essential oils which can be very toxic to dogs if ingested.

Batteries for toys or other gifts can be toxic and cause intestinal obstruction. Keep in a safe place until they are ready to be inserted in the gift.

Christmas Trees

Place Christmas trees in a stable stand, and attach the tree securely to a window or wall with something like fish line. We have known others who have hung their tree from the ceiling! To keep pets away from the tree, it may help to use a Scat Mat. While most dog owners use an indoor exercise pen to provide a safe place for a pet to play, during the holidays, some people place the pen around the tree. Even though you take precautions, make sure your dog is always supervised when in a room with a tree.

Tree needles can be toxic and cause mouth and stomach irritation. Even needles and the wire of artificial trees could pose a problem. Be sure your dog is not chewing on branches or eating fallen needles.

Tinsel's shininess is attractive. When eaten, it can cause blockages, which often require surgery to remove. Leave it off the tree altogether.

Angel hair, flocking, and artificial snow are mildly toxic. If consumed in larger amounts, however, they could cause blockage of the intestine. Try decorating with something less likely to cause a problem.

Chewing on electrical cords, including cords of lights can cause problems ranging from burned mouths, to electrical shock to death by electrocution. Some larger lights can become quite hot, and could also cause burns. Unplug decorative lights when you are not there, use pet-proof extension cords, and spray cords with a product such as Bitter Apple or Chew Stop.

Dogs will often play with glass ornaments as if they were balls and serious oral lacerations can result. Sharp ornament hooks can also become imbedded in your pet's mouth or esophagus. Place ornaments that are shiny, or could be swallowed or broken high up on your tree. Larger, less intriguing ornaments can go near the bottom.

Decorating trees with food is asking for problems. Candy canes and gingerbread people can be as enticing to your dog as they are to children. We know of one diabetic dog who ran into some problems with regulating her disease because she was stealing candy canes off of the tree. Popcorn, raisin, or cranberry garlands are beautiful, but can cause an obstruction when eaten, requiring surgery.

Because tree preservatives are often sugar-based (and inviting to dogs) and because the water stands so long, the water in the tree stand often harbors potentially harmful bacteria. Fertilizers, insecticides, or flame retardants that were used on the tree may also get into the water. Cover the stand with a tree skirt or use other means to prevent access to the water.

Visitors

Some pets love visitors and behave very well. Others may be fearful or aggressive. Some puppies may urinate when meeting people. Still, others may be too full of holiday cheer and over-exuberant. Plan for how your dog will react to visitors.

A quiet room, away from the commotion with water and food available will help fearful dogs be more comfortable.

Brushing up on obedience training before the holidays may help a dog who has become a little rusty. Be sure to inform your visitors of any household 'rules' or problem behaviors concerning your pets, e.g., sneaking out the door, jumping up on the couch, getting food from the table, etc.

For dogs who may not behave or could be aggressive, placing them in a separate room, using pet gates, or having them stay at a friend's house during a party, may be necessary. Sometimes, boarding a dog in a kennel may be the safest alternative.

Cleaning products such as disinfectants get a lot of use during the holidays as we spiff up our homes for visitors. Remember, many of these products can be toxic to your pets.

When inviting visitors, make sure they know you have a pet. If these people have allergies, you could help them by using a product such as Allerpet to decrease the dander in the house.

If you are traveling during the holidays, and need to leave your pet(s) at home, start to make accommodations for your pet(s) early. Many boarding facilities fill up very fast. Responsible pet sitters are a good alternative. If they are unfamiliar with your house or pet(s) have them come over and get acquainted before you leave.

New Pets

New pets are not good holiday gifts. If someone is thinking about getting a new pet, give the new prospective owner a variety of dog toys, food, or books on dog care. You may also wish to give a gift certificate so the person can choose his or her own pet after the holidays.

Similarly, if thinking about getting a new pet for yourself, remember pets need routine and a time to bond with you. With its noise, commotion, and special hazards, the holiday season is anything but routine. Think about getting your new dog after the holidays. We guarantee you will not have an after-holiday let down!

Why not make the holidays more enjoyable for homeless pets? Contact your local animal shelter to see if you can donate food, kitty litter, toys, or time.

Pet Gifts and Treats

When choosing a holiday gift for your special friend, be sure it is safe – no small pieces that could come off and be swallowed. Choose healthy holiday treats for your dog and give them in moderation.

With all of the festivities, do not forget to relax and spend some quality time with your pet. Your dog will think that is the best gift of all.

Dec 4 classes & activities cancelled due to illness.

2010-12-04T05:39:00.000-08:00

Class will resume on Dec 5 as scheduled.

Keeping your Pet Healthy~ obesity, food and tips!

2010-11-23T14:22:00.000-08:00

Introduction:

Staying fit and trim benefits pets just as it does people. Eating nutritious food and avoiding obesity helps animals stay healthy and live longer.

How do you know if your pet is overweight? When viewed from the side, there should be a distinction between the dog's ribcage and stomach; the abdomen should taper in. When viewed from above, some tapering should be evident and the waist should not look bloated. And when petting the dog, you should be able to feel his ribs a bit.

Obesity can lead to diabetes, joint pain, liver problems, heart disease and other medical conditions. So if your dog is overweight, it's time for more exercise, less fattening food and better nutrition.

Use These Tips To Slim Down Your Pet:

* Take an objective look at the food you are feeding your dog. Many commercial foods lack sufficient nutritious ingredients in addition to lacking freshness. As a result, the dog continually craves more food and is more prone to health problems. It may be time to upgrade to a super premium food or to a home-made diet, or something in-between, such as supplementing a super premium dry food with whole foods such as fresh vegetables and yogurt.

* You can help an overweight dog lose weight by cutting back on the regular dog food and adding vegetables. The vitamins and extra roughage will help. Suggestions about healthy foods appear later in this article. As for healthful dog foods, read articles on the internet, such as those listed at the end of this tipsheet.

* If you stick with the same food, reduce the amount by 25 percent. You should see results in two weeks. If he hasn't slimmed down, cut back his food a little bit more, but do not make drastic reductions. Gradual weight loss is preferred; for many breeds, one pound a week is plenty. If you don't see results in a month, consult your vet -- and reconsider the type of food you're using.

* You should not try to eliminate all fat from a dog's diet. Just reduce the amount of fat intake. Remember, some fats are better than others. For example, flaxseed oil, fish oil and other foods that contain omega 3 and 6 fatty acids are beneficial and essential for humans and canines alike. The same cannot be said for things such as animal fat and the trans fat prevalent in cookies, chips and certain dog treats.

* Feed your dog at least twice a day. You can try an approach that works for many humans: break up daily food allotment into 5 or 6 small meals.

* Always have your dogs earn their treats and food, and have them sit before you set down the food bowl. Details about this practice appear below in the "Feeding Tips and Tricks" section.

* Is the dog overly excited or impatient about getting fed? As you prepare the meal, ignore whining, pawing, barking and jumping. Then push the bowl to the back of the counter, and sit down and read for 15 minutes. By ignoring the dog, you give her a chance to calm down and to learn that her demanding behaviors will no longer be rewarded. When she finally settles down, give the sit command, then calmly put down the bowl for her. By practicing this tip, you'll get more respect from your dog and help her eliminate undesirable begging behavior.

* If your dog eats too fast, make him slow down. Even if your dog does not eat too fast, the following techniques can add variety to the dieting dog's dining. Smear the food all over the inside of the bowl so it takes more time for the dog to lick up the food. Or instead of using a bowl, pack the food into open-ended rubber Kong-type toys. (These versatile toys are available at our shoppe.)

You can add the kibble dry, or soften the food a bit by adding water or juice from any vegetables mentioned later in this tipsheet before stuffing the food inside the Kong. You can even freeze the Kong overnight. You can augment the stuffing with healthy supplements such as no-fat cottage cheese, no-fat plain yogurt, fruit bits or veggies. Another idea: two or three spoonfuls of canned pumpkin makes a tasty, filling and healthy mix-in.

To make mealtimes more fun for your dog, you can place his meal in several Kongs and hide them throughout the house, prompting him to seek out his food. Naturally, you need to help the dog learn where to find the Kongs. Buster Cubes also work if you are using dry food; they require the dog to do more thinking to get the food to release.

* Prepare and have handy at all times healthy treats and high fiber snacks to substitute for biscuits, which usually have lots of calories. Easy treats for dieting dogs include:

*Rice cakes (the plain variety is best)
*Baby carrots or carrot chips
*Frozen green beans (lower-calorie than carrots, and when frozen, there's added chewing satisfaction)
*Watermelon chunks

* By the way, you can also use kibble as a treat...useful especially if your pet is on a special, restricted diet.

* Garlic aids the digestive system and can help support weight loss. Depending on the pet's size, crush from one-half to two cloves a day into their food. By cloves, we mean the small chambers, not an entire garlic bulb.

* Do not give into begging and stop feeding the dog table scraps. Even slim dogs should not be fed fatty foods, poultry skin, hot dogs, bacon, pizza and the like.

* If you have more than one pet, be watchful. Your dieting dog may try to steal food from other bowls.

* Keep your food away from counter and table edges. Put garbage cans totally out of the pet's reach. Remember, your dieting dog will be hungrier than usual.

* Feed your dog less if you are expecting visitors in order to compensate for the treats your guests will feed him. Tell your guests your dog needs to stick to his diet.

* Treats do not have to be edible. Instead, use playing and walks as treats and as rewards for good behavior. Increase the amount of attention you give the dog that does not involve food treats.

* Spaying and neutering do not make pets fat. Weight gain and lack of muscle tone come from overeating and from insufficient exercise.

* Weight gain can signal a medical problem. If this is a possibility, see your veterinarian.

Exercise:

* Give the dog more exercise, indoors and outside. If your chubby pet is not used to exercising, start out slowly with short walks and light ball-fetching sessions, then increase the exertion level over time. Avoid over-exerting elderly dogs or those of delicate health. Healthy dogs can advance to sports such as agility and flyball, which can improve their owners' fitness at the same time.

* Remember, playtime and walks can be used as rewards, substituting for food treats.

* Some breeds such as beagles, border collies and golden retrievers are prone to weight gain, partly because as housepets, they do not get to engage in the intense outdoor activities for which they were originally bred (hunting, herding sheep). Plus they are skilled at using their doleful eyes to charm food out of their owners.

Some Good Whole Foods for Dogs:

* Apples (they contain potassium, which stimulates the immune system, and pepsin, which helps the stomach)
* Brewers yeast (health aid and can help remedy some skin conditions)
* Carrots (rich in vitamins, great treats to substitute for biscuits)
* Cucumber (good for teeth and bones due to potassium content; can combine with carrots to promote a healthy liver and kidneys; in juice form, a good diuretic ... peel cucumbers unless organically grown)
* Celery (chopped or juiced; can help with arthritis)
* Flaxseed oil, fish oil, omega 3 and 6 supplements (beneficial and essential fatty acids)
* Garlic (removes waste from blood, can help repel fleas; use fresh garlic finely minced)
* Green beans (lightly steamed; healthy and low-cal treat)
* Parsley (can reduce allergy symptoms and aid kidney function; chop finely or boil parsley and add the juice over food)
* Kale (rich in antioxidants and can help reduce allergy symptoms)
* Green or yellow squash, asparagus and spinach (very healthy; serve chopped)
* Another veggie snack idea: cooked skins from organically grown potatoes
* Bananas (in small quantity; a coveted treat)
* Whole grains including oats, oatmeal, brown rice, millet
* Cereal grasses, such as barley grass, and barley supplements
* Tofu
* Plain low-fat or no-fat yogurt
* Olive oil, sesame oil (a tablespoon a day is good for skin and fur)
* Preparation suggestions: Many veggies can be served raw, lightly steamed or in juice form. For most vegetables such as broccoli and carrots, it is far better to steam them instead of serving raw for improved digestibility and nutritional value. Also, since dogs have small digestive tracts, you can puree vegetables to enable your pet to digest more. If you use canned vegetables, get the salt-free kinds.

* Organically grown benefits: Due to their smaller size and more compact body systems, pets can be more prone to the toxic effects of pesticide contamination than are people. So it is best to feed them produce that is organically certified, which also has higher nutritional value for everyone.

Feeding Tips and Tricks:
* Teach your dog to always come and sit before placing the food bowl on the floor.

* It is good practice to always have your dogs earn their treats and food, so make mealtime a learning opportunity. Teach your pet commands such as come, sit and down, then give a command for the dog to obey before you provide the meal or treat. Dogs like the opportunity to show that they understand their people and enjoy interaction that leads to rewards and praise. Other advantages of teaching dogs to take food only upon your command: your pet will be less likely to try to steal others' food, ingest unauthorized substances indoors or outdoors, or accept treats from strangers.

* Is the dog overly excited or impatient about getting fed? Ignore whining, pawing, barking and jumping. After preparing the dog's food, push the bowl to the back of the counter, and sit down and read for 15 minutes. This gives the dog a chance to calm down and to learn that her demanding behaviors will no longer be rewarded. When she settles down, give the sit command, then calmly put down the bowl for her. By practicing this tip, you'll get more respect from your dog and help her eliminate undesirable begging behavior.

* You can also teach your dog to "go to your place/bed" before getting fed, which is especially helpful for dogs prone to begging at kitchen counters and dinner tables. "Go to your place/bed" is an extremely useful command when you're cooking, cleaning or engaged in any activity in which the dog's interference could lead to distraction and injury. You can designate a place, say, in the far corner of the kitchen or family room, and place a mat or dog bed there. Teach your dog to associate that place with a special word, such as "place," "spot" or "bed." Then, using positive reinforcement, incorporating praise and small treats as rewards, teach him to "go to your place." This gives the dog something good and acceptable that he can do.

* Does your dog dislike dry kibble, or does he gulp water after eating it? Mix a little water, juice from the vegetables listed in this tipsheet, or wet food into the kibble.

* Cooked rice and vegetables add healthy variety to any diet. Rice and vegetables can be a great diet for older dogs who tire of regular dog food.

* Steaming is healthier than microwaving. More of the nutrients are preserved. Steaming also helps make more of a vegetable's nutrients accessible during the digestive process.

* You can help a dog lose weight by reducing regular dog food a bit and adding vegetables. The extra roughage is good for dogs.

* For dogs who crave grass, satisfy them with barley grass, rye grass, oat grass, wheat grass and other cereal grasses or sprouts. Cereal grasses are appealing as well as nutritious for dogs. They contain vitamins, enzymes and chlorophyll, which can help prevent and treat infection, skin disorders, anemia, diarrhea, flea problems, hair loss and pain.

* Baby food in jars offers a great, handy way to supplement pet food, especially for small dogs or when you're on the road with your pet. But check the label; some baby food has ingredients and additives you may not want to feed your dog.

* A low protein diet can help hyperactive and dominant dogs. Eliminate canned food for these dogs. Too much protein can be hard on any dog's organs. However, certain medical conditions such as pregnancy require more protein, so check with your veterinarian or canine behaviorist/trainer.

* For dogs prone to struvite crystals, some vets advise limiting vegetable intake because vegetables could turn their urine alkaline.

* It is typically better to feed dogs twice a day instead of once. Feed half in the morning and half in the early evening. When dogs sleep, their digestive systems slow down, so some dogs have stomach upsets when they wake up in the morning. For those dogs, feed a larger portion at breakfast and a smaller meal in the early evening.

* Young puppies should be fed three times a day. FYI, puppy food contains a higher fat content than does adult dog food.

* Don't be alarmed if a new dog does not eat for awhile, or if a dog skips a meal, unless the dog has a medical condition.

* A technique that often works for picky eaters: if he doesn't eat within 15 minutes, take up the bowl. Don't feed again until the next regularly scheduled meal. Take the bowl up again after 15 minutes. Usually after one to two missed meals, the dog will get back on track - and have a renewed appreciation for his food.

* Avoid free feeding, or leaving the food bowl out for hours. The food can get stale, attract bugs or, in multi-pet households, be eaten by another pet. Dental health is another reason to not to free feed, since the food stays on the teeth longer, leading to tooth decay.

* If your dog constantly leaves some food in the bowl, you are probably feeding too much food. Reduce portions a bit.

* Use porcelain or stainless steel bowls. Bacteria tends to grow in plastic bowls. In addition, many dogs will chew plastic bowls.

* Keeping a feeding routine is helpful for any dog, particularly young dogs or newly adopted dogs. Canines thrive on routine. Furthermore, a reliable feeding and elimination/walking schedule is critical to successful housetraining.

* Many behavior specialists advise that if you have a dominant or pushy dog, or a dog who does not understand the structure in the household, you should feed yourself first before feeding the dog. This is one of several steps you should take to reinforce your role as the leader. For more information, email us at http://www.leadingthewaydogtraining.com/

* If the dog respects you, but does not listen to your spouse, or is fearful of your spouse, have your spouse feed the dog. This will help build a healthy bond.

* To have the dog work for his food, or to make a healthy game of mealtime, you can stuff his meals inside a Kong, a hollow rubber toy carried by most pet supply stores. You can slightly moisten the food with water or juice from one of the vegetables mentioned in this article, and then stuff the food into one or more Kongs. You can also stuff Kongs with low-fat or no-fat cottage cheese, plain yogurt, chopped fruit, veggies or a few spoonfuls of canned plain pumpkin. You can use some peanut butter or cream cheese to help make kibble and veggies stick inside the Kong if the dog doesn't have a weight problem.

You can also place the meal in several Kongs and hide them throughout the house, prompting the dog to seek out his food. Naturally, you need to help the dog learn where to find the Kongs. Buster Cubes also work if you are using dry food; they require the dog to do more thinking to get the food to release.

* For multi-pet homes, it is wise to feed animals in separate places to avoid distractions, food stealing and fights. Many behaviorists recommend feeding the more senior pets first, and to keep a routine. Keep watch as they eat, particularly if you have any food aggressive, bossy or vulnerable animals. Pick up the bowls right after they finish. FYI, cat food is particularly appealing to dogs.

* Do not allow children or guests around dogs at feeding time. And never tease dogs who are trying to eat meals or treats.

* Do not let pets lick food cans; they can cut their tongues.

* Do not leave food unattended on the table or counter. Dogs have been known to pull pans of pasta off stoves and whole turkeys off tables. Whenever preparing or serving food, keep it away from counter and table edges and out of pets' reach. Also make sure pets cannot reach family members' lunch bags.

* To discourage begging and pawing when you're cooking or preparing meals, have a squirt bottle of water handy. Better yet, teach your dog to "go to your place."

* Cook food on back burners whenever possible.

* Be careful when using knives around dogs, especially tall dogs.

* Wrap food debris carefully and dispose right away. Block access to garbage and trash cans.

* Tell guests to keep food and medications out of dog's reach.

* Also tell guests and remind household members not to feed the dog any unauthorized foods. Have healthy pet treats handy for guests so that they can indulge your pet safely.

* Fatty foods can lead to gastrointestinal upset, digestive disorders and pancreatitis, a deadly inflammation of the pancreas. Dogs do not need much fat at all. Again, remember that some fats are better than others. Animal fat contributes to obesity and health problems. In contrast, flaxseed oil, fish oil and other foods containing omega 3 and 6 fatty acids are essential for humans and canines alike.

* Do not feed pets any chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, bread dough, meat and poultry bones, salty foods, nuts, onions, tomatoes, avocados, raisins, grapes, rhubarb or spoiled or moldy food. For more on food dangers, see the Food and Kitchen Safety tipsheet.

Treating Indigestion and Diarrhea:

Each dog is an individual. But we've received reports of successful home remedies. They include feeding the dog canned plain pumpkin, which contains many vitamins, especially helpful in restoring nutrients lost with diarrhea. Others have fed mashed potatoes and rice (brown has some fiber lacking in white rice). Sometimes plain unsweetened yogurt can calm upset stomachs. If a health problem continues more than a day or is severe, contact a holistic or conventional veterinarian.

Related Articles:

What Not to Feed Dogs and Kitchen Safety
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_FoodAndKitchenSafety.php

Selecting a Commercial Pet Food
http://www.api4animals.org/doc.asp?ID=689

Pet Food Facts and Healthy Alternatives
http://www.emagazine.com/may-june_2002/0502gl_consumer.html

Sample Diets for Homemade Foods
http://www.api4animals.org/doc.asp?ID=508

Bones and Raw Food Diets/Biologically Appropriate Raw Foods Diet
http://www.drianbillinghurst.com/barf%20diet.htm
http://www.barfworld.com/html/learn_more/what_is_barf.shtml
http://www.bluegrace.com/barf.html

What's Really in Pet Food
http://www.api4animals.org/doc.asp?ID=79

Polluted Pet Food
http://www.nexusmagazine.com/Petfood.html

Pet Food Reality
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_PetFood.html

Canine Wellness and Alternative Health Information
http://www.animalwellnessmagazine.com
http://www.whole-dog-journal.com
http://www.holisticmed.com
http://www.homeopathic.org/

Health Supplements, Vitamins, Natural Products Sources
http://www.earthdogz.com
http://www.goodpet.com
http://www.preciouspets.org
http://ihelppets.com
http://www.DoctorDog.com
http://www.outoftheearth.com
http://www.theherbpeddler.com
http://www.theherbsplace.com/

Premium and Natural Dog Food Sources
http://www.companionnaturalpetfood.com
http://www.happytailspetmart.com
http://www.naturaldogfoodonline.com
http://www.petfooddirect.com
http://www.sojos.com
http://www.auntjeni.com/

New Book
Throw Me a Bone: 50 Healthy, Canine-Tested Recipes for Snacks, Meals and Treats by Cooper Gillespie
------
Thank you
http://www.paw-rescue.org!

Honest Kitchen...what we feed our dogs

2010-11-04T07:09:00.000-07:00

www.thehonestkitchen.com
Minimal Processing
By using a gentle dehydration process, we are able to maintain the integrity of our core ingredients. Our fruits and vegetables are harvested at the peak of their ripeness then gently dried. Dehydration ensures that the enzymes, vitamins and nutrients are still intact, so our fruits and vegetables are actually considered raw. Our meats and eggs are dehydrated at a high enough temperature to kill any pathogenic bacteria that may be present which essentially means that these ingredients are considered 'cooked' during dehydration. Dehydrated foods are highly nutritious, easy to prepare and store, and light-weight to ship. It also means that you don’t have to worry about feeding your pet any harsh preservatives. Essentially, our only preservative is the lack of water– how cool?

Human-Grade Ingredients and Production - from farm to bowl
All our ingredients are chosen directly form the human food chain - this is a requirement for entry into the human food facility where our products are made. Each of our diets are carefully blended to encompass a broad array of amino acids, phytonutrients, vitamins, minerals and enzymes to help achieve and maintain optimum health. Production occurs in a FDA inspected human food facility right here in in the USA, alongside products such as breakfast cereals and beverage mixes for human consumption. Learn more about the ways we control the quality of our raw ingredients and finished products.

Whole Food ingredients from Suppliers Who Care
All chickens are not created equal; while some have never seen the light of day, ours are free range. Read more about our sustainably raised, free-range chicken from Petaluma Farms right here in California. We choose suppliers who care, because we care. Many ingredients are carefully sourced from farms in their 'native' countries, such as Fair-trade Organic Quinoa from Bolivia, Sweet Potatoes from their native Peru and Bananas from the Philippines. We're also a proud member of Green America, whose mission is to harness economic power—the strength of consumers, investors, businesses, and the marketplace—to create a socially just and environmentally sustainable society. You can read a bit about where each of our ingredients comes from, here.

Our 1 and 2 day workshops! Regisiter TODAY

2010-11-04T06:25:00.000-07:00

OUR ONE -DAY WORKSHOPS-

Pre Register-PLEASE! RSVP by email info@leadingthewaydogtraining.com Discounts for participating in multiply workshops...email us today

Focus, Control and Recall EVERYTIME ™ and Counter Surfin: Saturday Dec 11 at 11:30-1:00 (Snow Date Dec 12 at 11:30-pm)Learn to keep your dog’s focus, in any situation, including dog parks, around those pesky squirrels; learn Come When Called EVERYTIME ™and so much more. Fee is $40. Limited to 5 students.

On the Road Again: (one day class) Saturday~April 9 at 11:30-1:30pm. This fun class provides the desired skills in order to handle your dog in public. Class participants will practice skills in several different locations in the community. Fee is $45

Make your Own Dog Toys & Desserts: Saturday Dec 4, at 7:00-8:30pm. A great holiday gift for your fur-ball. Toys made for all of your furry friends (DOGS & CATS). We will make a tug toy and other fun dog toys. $15 includes supplies while also enjoying wonderful desserts! Please, NO DOGS.

Polite Greetings, Leash Walking and Too Much Barking: Sunday Jan 8, at 11:30-1:00pm.(snow date Jan 9) Does your dog's pulling or jumping embarrass you? Or maybe you just want your arm back in its socket and the scratches on your legs to heal. Whatever your reasons for teaching your dog not to jump up during greetings and to walk politely on leash, it's a great idea! Fee is $40 Limited to 5 students.

AKC Canine Good Citizenship Workshop This 1 day prep class and test for the AKC Canine Good Citizenship Earning the CGC award will ensure that your dog is a well-respected member of your community. The Canine Good Citizen award is one of the first AKC certificates your dog can own and CGC provides an excellent foundation for all other training. Canine Good Citizen training is fun and useful. You’ll find that training for the CGC award will help you establish a closer bond with your dog 1 day class meets Sat Jan 15 (snow day Jan 16) 11am-1:30pm the fee is only $40, includes the test! EMAIL ME IF INTERESTED!!! Invite your friends! Open to all!!!

OUR 2-DAY WORKSHOP

Sat-Sun:
Therapy Dog Weekend Workshop: The focus of this weekend is on preparing the handler and dog for the therapy environment. This 2-day workshop is ideal for both the novice and experienced handler and will include field trips into the community to gain skills. Skills include working around medical equipment, loud noises, food, toys, and other distractions. Topics covered include stress and calming signals in dogs, infection control, medical ethics, general liability, and handling difficult visitation situations. Beginning Sat Feb 19-20, 2011 this workshop is just $140. Limited to just 5 teams We will meet from 10am-4pm both days.

The whole Sha-bang: this Weekend Behavior Workshop covers is all! Polite Greeting, Leash Walking, Barking, Off-Leash Control, and Counter Surfing and behavior in public: this JAM packed class. Sat-Sunday 10-4 both days. Fee is just $160 for the entire weekend Limited to 5 handlers. Feb 26-27

Doggie Dinner and snacks! YUMMMMMY!!

2010-11-02T16:13:00.000-07:00

Doggy Fish Dinner
1 can of salmon (bones removed)
1 egg beaten
3 Tbsp cornmeal
1 potato
1 carrot
1 stick celery
1 Tbsp peanut butter
Combine salmon, egg, and cornmeal and mix well, form into patties, and coat them with a little more cornmeal. Fry in a tiny amount of canola oil until brown on both sides. Chop patties into small bites and stir together with chopped and boiled vegetables. A spoonful of cottage cheese may be stirred in for moisture if desired. Finish off dinner with peanut butter as dessert.

Doggy Hamburger Helper
1 cup hamburger meat, stir-fried in 1 tbsp canola oil
2 boiled eggs, chopped
½ cup cooked plain oatmeal
1 jar baby food green beans
1 jar baby food carrots
2 Tbsp cottage cheese
Combine all ingredients and serve at room temperature. A good doggy multivitamin/mineral supplement may be added for good measure. Be sure to store unused portions in a covered container in the refrigerator and discard any remains after 3 days.

Doggy Casserole
1 cup boiled poultry, chopped
½ cup cooked brown rice
½ cup boiled mixed vegetables
3 to 4 Tbsp unsalted chicken broth
(Note: Salmon may occasionally be substituted for boiled poultry, with chicken broth omitted.)
Stir together and serve at room temperature. A good doggy multivitamin/mineral supplement may be added for good measure. Be sure to store unused portions in a covered container in the refrigerator and discard remains after 3 days.

Homemade Dog Treat Recipe
Apple Cinnamon Drops
1 large apple
1/4 cup honey
1/2 cup of water
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1 cup oatmeal
1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
1/8 cup whole wheat flour
Directions:
Preheat oven to 350 ° F (180 ° C).
Core, slice and mince the apple (use a food processor if you have one). In a large bowl, combine the minced apple bits, honey, water, cinnamon, and oatmeal. Gradually blend in the wheat flour, adding enough to form a stiff dough.
In a small bowl, add 1/8 cup wheat flour. Spoon the dough by rounded teaspoon onto ungreased baking sheets, spacing about 2 inches (5cm) apart. Using the bottom of a glass dipped in the wheat flour (to prevent sticking), flatten each spoonful of dough into a circle. Adjust the size of the drops based on how big a treat you like to feed your dog.
Bake for 30 minutes. Remove from oven and flip each cookie to brown evenly on both sides. Reduce oven temperature to 325 ° F (180 °C). Return to oven and bake for an additional 30 minutes. Let cool overnight.
Makes about 3 dozen crunchy cookies, depending on how big you make them.
Homemade Dog Treat Recipe
Archie Squares

2 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
1/2 cup powdered dry milk
1/2 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. brown sugar or honey
6 tbs. meat or bacon drippings, cold right from refrigerator, not melted or soft!
1 egg, slightly beaten
1/2 cup Ice water
Preheat oven to 350F. Lightly oil a cookie sheet. Combine flour, dry milk, garlic powder and sugar. Cut in meat drippings until mixture resembles corn meal. Mix in egg. Add enough water so that mixture forms a ball. Using your fingers, pat out dough onto cookie sheet to 1/2" thick. Cut dough into squares appropriate for your dog size. Prick each cookie with fork. Bake 25-30 minutes. Remove from tray and cool on rack. Store in airtight container.

Homemade Dog Treat Recipe
Frozen Doggie Yums

2 cup water
2 cube chicken or beef boillion (dog's favorite)
10-15 small pieces of chicken or beef
Disolve boillion in water and tear meat into smaller pieces about 1/2 inch squares. Pour into ice cube tray. Freeze for about 12 hours or until solid. Great for hot days!! My dog loves these!!!
Ingredients:
2 cups Whole wheat flour
1/3 cup Butter -- melted
1 Egg -- beaten
6 tablespoons Water
1/4 cup liver -- dried or jerky-style treats -- chopped
Instructions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine flour, butter, egg, and water. Mix well.
Blend in liver bits. Turn onto a greased baking pan. Bake 20 to 25 minutes. Cool
and cut.
Liver Brownies

2 lbs chicken livers
2 C corn meal
2 C wheat germ
2 eggs
2 1/2 tsp. granulated garlic (not salt)
1/2 C dried parsley
Liquefy livers in food processor, pour into mixing bowl and add other ingredients. Mix until smooth like a brownie batter. Spread on a cookie sheet (1/2 sheet cake size) (I use parchment paper to line the pan) until it's evenly spread about 1/3 inch thick. Bake at 350 F for about 35 minutes. When cool cut into squares, or whatever shapes you prefer. I keep them in a ziplock bag in the refrigerator.

2010-11-01T05:39:00.000-07:00

"I think dogs are the most amazing creatures; they give unconditional love. For me they are the role model for being alive."
- Gilda Radner

Dog intelligence science

2010-10-31T10:19:00.000-07:00

More Than Man's Best Friend....

2010-10-31T10:05:00.000-07:00

Archaeology Magazine - More than Man's Best Friend
More Than Man's Best Friend by Jarrett A. Lobell and Eric Powell Volume 63 Number 5, September/October 2010 Dogs have been an integral part of human culture for 15,000 years...sometimes in unexpected ways

All dogs descended from the gray wolf, the largest member of the Canidae family. (Copyright Staffan Widsrtrand/Nature Picture Library)
Today there are some 77 million dogs in the United States alone. But as late as 20,000 years ago, it's possible there wasn't a single animal on the planet that looked like today's beloved (at least in some cultures) Canis lupus familiaris. Just how and when the species first became recognizably "doggy" has preoccupied scientists since the theory of evolution first gained widespread acceptance in the 19th century. The idea that dogs were domesticated from jackals was long ago discarded in favor of the notion that dogs descend from the gray wolf, Canis lupus, the largest member of the Canidae family, which includes foxes and coyotes. While no scholars seriously dispute this basic fact of ancestry, biologists, archaeologists, and just about anyone interested in the history of dogs still debate when, where, and how gray wolves first evolved into the animal that is the ancestor of all dog breeds, from Neapolitan mastiffs to dachshunds. Were the first dogs domesticated in China, the Near East, or possibly Africa? Were they first bred for food, companionship, or their hunting abilities? The answers are important, since dogs were the first animals to be domesticated and likely played a critical role in the Neolithic revolution. Recently, biologists have entered the debate, and their genetic analyses raise new questions about when and where wolves first developed into what we today recognize as dogs.

It can be very difficult to distinguish between wolf and dog skeletons, especially early in the history of dogs, when they would have been much more similar to wolves than they are today. What are perhaps the earliest dog-like remains date to 31,700 years ago and were first excavated in the 19th century at Goyet Cave in Belgium. Paleontologist Mietje Germonpré of the Royal Belgian Institute of Natural Sciences recently led a team that studied a canid skull from the cave and concluded that it had a significantly shorter snout than wolves from the same period. This dog-like wolf could represent the first step toward domestication and would make the Paleolithic people we call the Aurignacians, better known as the first modern humans to occupy Europe, the world's first known dog fanciers. But the analysis is controversial, and there is a large gap between the age of the Goyet Cave "dog" and the next oldest skeletons that could plausibly be called dog-like, which date to 14,000 years ago in western Russia. Perhaps the Goyet Cave wolf represents an isolated instance of domestication and left no descendants. But based on finds of dog skeletons throughout the Old World, from China to Africa, we know that certainly by 10,000 years ago dogs were playing a critical role in the lives of humans all over the world, whether as sentries, ritual sacrifices, or sources of protein.

The archaeological record suggests dogs were domesticated in multiple places at different times, but in 2009, a team led by Peter Savolainen of the Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm published an analysis of the mitochondrial DNA of some 1,500 dogs from across the Old World, which narrowed down the time and place of dog domestication to a few hundred years in China. "We found that dogs were first domesticated at a single event, sometime less than 16,300 years ago, south of the Yangtze River," says Savolainen, who posits that all dogs spring from a population of at least 51 female wolves, and were first bred over the course of several hundred years. "This is the same basic time and place as the origin of rice agriculture," he notes. "It's speculative, but it seems that dogs may have first originated among early farmers, or perhaps hunter-gatherers who were sedentary." But this year a team led by biologist Robert Wayne of the University of California, Los Angeles, showed that domesticated dog DNA overlaps most closely with that of Near Eastern wolves. Wayne and his colleagues suggest that dogs were first domesticated somewhere in the Middle East, then bred with other gray wolves as they spread across the globe, casting doubt on the idea that dogs were domesticated during a single event in a discrete location. Savolainen maintains that Wayne overemphasizes the role of the Near Eastern gray wolf, and that a more thorough sampling of wolves from China would support his team's theory of a single domestication event.

University of Victoria archaeozoologist Susan Crockford, who did not take part in either study, suspects that searching for a single moment when dogs were domesticated overlooks the fact that the process probably happened more than once. "We have evidence that there was a separate origin of North American dogs, distinct from a Middle Eastern origin," says Crockford. "This corroborates the idea of at least two 'birthplaces.' I think we need to think about dogs becoming dogs at different times in different places."

As for how dogs first came to be domesticated, Crockford, like many other scholars, thinks dogs descend from wolves that gathered near the camps of semi-sedentary hunter-gatherers, as well as around the first true settlements, to eat scraps. "The process was probably driven by the animals themselves," she says. "I don't think they were deliberately tamed; they basically domesticated themselves." Smaller wolves were probably more fearless and curious than larger, more dominant ones, and so the less aggressive, smaller wolves became more successful at living in close proximity to humans. "I think they also came to have a spiritual role," says Crockford. "Dog burials are firm evidence of that. Later, perhaps they became valued as sentries. I don't think hunting played a large role in the process initially. Their role as magical creatures was probably very important in the early days of the dog-human relationship."

Whatever the reasons behind their domestication, dogs have left their pawprints all over the archaeological record, sometimes literally, for thousands of years. Over the following pages, we explore not only the roles dogs played in past cultures throughout the world, but how ancient artists celebrated our oldest companions.

Starting from day one....

2010-10-27T17:33:00.000-07:00

Puppy (new dog) Priorities

Once you have completed your doggy education and chosen the best possible puppy, you will find there is much to do and little time to do it. Here are your puppy priorities listed in order of urgency and ranked in terms of importance.

1. HOUSEHOLD ETIQUETTE - from the very first day your puppy comes home. Housetraining, chewtoy-training, and teaching your dog alternatives to recreational barking are by far the most pressing items on your puppy's educational agenda. From day one, employ errorless management teaching programs, comprising confinement schedules plus the liberal use of chewtoys (Kongs, Biscuit Balls, Squirrel Dudes, and sterilized longbones) stuffed with kibble. Simple behavior problems are so easily preventable, yet they are the most common reasons for people's dissatisfaction with their dogs and the most common reasons for dog euthanasia. Without a doubt, behavior problems are the #1 terminal illness for domestic dogs. Teaching household manners should be your number one priority the first day your puppy comes home. #1 Urgency Rating — Household etiquette is by far the most pressing item on your new puppy's educational agenda. If you want to avoid annoying behavior problems, training must begin the very first day your puppy comes home. #3 Importance Rating — Teaching household etiquette is extremely important. Puppies quickly become unwelcome when their owners allow them to develop housesoiling, chewing, barking, digging, and escaping problems.

2. HOME ALONE - during the first few days and weeks your puppy is at home. Sadly, the maddening pace of present-day domestic dogdom necessitates teaching your puppy how to enjoy spending time at home alone — not only to ensure your pup adheres to established household etiquette when unsupervised, but more importantly to prevent your puppy from becoming anxious in your absence. Normally, these go hand in hand because when puppies become anxious, they tend to bark, chew, dig, and urinate more frequently. From the outset, and especially during his first few days and weeks in your home, your puppy needs to be taught how to entertain himself quietly, calmly, and confidently. Otherwise he most certainly will become severely stressed when left at home alone. #2 Urgency Rating — Teaching your pup to confidently enjoy his own company is the second most urgent item on his educational agenda. It would be unfair to smother your puppy with attention and affection during his first days or weeks at home, only to subject the pup to solitary confinement when adults go back to work and children go back to school. During the first few days and weeks when you are around to monitor your puppy's behavior, teach him to enjoy quiet moments confined to his puppy playroom or doggy den. Especially be sure to provide some form of occupational therapy (stuffed chewtoys) for your puppy to busy himself and enjoyably pass the time while you are away. #4 Importance Rating — Preparing your puppy for time alone is extremely important both for your peace of mind (i.e., preventing housesoiling, chewing, and barking problems), and especially for your puppy's peace of mind. It is absolutely no fun for a pup to be over-dependent, stressed, and anxious.

3. SOCIALIZATION WITH PEOPLE - especially before twelve weeks of age but forever thereafter. Many puppy training programs focus on teaching your puppy to enjoy the company and actions of people. Well-socialized dogs are confident and friendly, rather than fearful and aggressive. Show all family members, visitors, and strangers how to get your puppy to come, sit, lie down, roll over, and enjoy being handled for pieces of kibble. Living with an undersocialized dog can be frustrating, difficult, and potentially dangerous. For undersocialized dogs, life is unbearably stressful. #3 Urgency Rating — Many people think that puppy classes are for socializing puppies with people. Not strictly true. Certainly puppy classes provide a convenient venue for socialized puppies to continue socializing with people. However, puppies must be well socialized toward people before they attend classes at twelve weeks of age. The time-window for socialization closes at three months of age, and so there is some urgency to adequately socialize your puppy to people. During your pup's first month at home, he needs to meet and interact positively with at least one hundred different people! #2 Importance Rating — Socializing your puppy to enjoy people is vital — second only in importance to your pup learning to inhibit the force of his bite and develop a soft mouth. Socialization must never end. Remember, your adolescent dog will begin to de-socialize unless he continues to meet unfamiliar people every day. Walk your dog or expand your own social life at home.

4. DOG-DOG SOCIALIZATION - between three months and eighteen weeks of age to establish reliable bite inhibition and forever after to maintain friendliness to other dogs. As soon as your puppy turns three months old, it is time to play catch up vis-a-vis dog-dog socialization, time for puppy classes, long walks, and visits to dog parks. Well-socialized dogs would rather play than bite or fight. And well-socialized dogs usually bite more gently, if ever they should bite or fight.#4 Urgency Rating — If you would like to have an adult dog who enjoys the company of other dogs, puppy classes and walks are essential, especially since many puppies have been sequestered indoors until they have been immunized against parvovirus and other serious doggy diseases (by the very earliest at three months of age).#6 Importance Rating — It is hard to rate the importance of dog-dog socialization. Depending on the lifestyle of the owners, dog-friendliness may be an unnecessary or an essential quality. If you would like to enjoy walks with your adult dog, early socialization in puppy classes and dog parks is essential. Surprisingly, though, very few people walk their dogs. Whereas large dogs and urban dogs tend to be walked quite frequently, small dogs and suburban dogs are seldom walked. Regardless of the desired sociability of your adult dog, dog-dog play and especially play-fighting and play-biting during puppyhood are absolutely essential for the development of bite inhibition and a soft mouth. For this reason alone, puppy classes and trips to the dog park are the top priority at three months of age.

5. SIT AND SETTLE DOWN COMMANDS - begin anytime you would like your puppydog to listen to you. If you teach your dog just a couple of commands, they would have to be Sit and Settle Down. Just think of all the mischievous things your puppydog cannot do when he is sitting. #5 Urgency Rating - Unlike socialization and bite inhibition which must occur during puppyhood, you may teach your dog to sit and settle down at any age, so there is no great urgency. However, because it is so easy and so much fun to teach young puppies, why not start teaching basic manners the very first day you bring your puppy home, or as early as four or five weeks if you are raising the litter? The only urgency to teach these simple and effective control commands would be if ever your puppy's antics or activity level begin to irritate you. Sit or Settle Down will solve most problems.#5 Importance Rating - It is difficult to rate the importance of basic manners. Personally, I like dogs that can enjoy being dogs without being a bother to other people. On the other hand, many people happily live with dogs without any formal training whatsoever. If you consider your dog to be perfect for you, make your own choice. But if you or other people find your dog's behavior to be annoying, why not teach him how to behave? Indeed, a simple sit prevents the majority of annoying behavior problems, including jumping-up, dashing through doorways, running away, bothering people, chasing his tail, chasing the cat, etc., etc. The list is long! It is so much easier to teach your dog how to act appropriately from the outset, i.e., to teach the one right way (e.g., to sit), rather than trying to punish the dog for the many things that you think he does wrong. Regardless, it would be unfair to get on your dog's case for bad manners if he is only breaking your rules that he didn't even know existed.

6. BITE INHIBITION - by eighteen weeks of age. A soft mouth is the single most important quality for any dog. Hopefully, your dog will never bite or fight, but if he does, well-established bite inhibition ensures that your dog causes little if any damage. Socialization is an ongoing process of ever-widening experience and confidence building that helps your pup to comfortably handle the challenges and changes of everyday adult life. However, it is impossible to prepare your puppy for every possible eventuality, and on those rare occasions when adult dogs are badly hurt, frightened, scared, or upset, they seldom call a lawyer or write letters of complaint. Instead, dogs customarily growl and bite, whereupon the level of bite-inhibition-training from puppyhood predetermines the seriousness of the damage. Adult dogs with poor bite inhibition rarely mouth and seldom bite, but when they do, the bites almost always break the skin. Adult dogs with well-established bite inhibition often mouth during play, and should they bite, the bites almost never break the skin because during puppyhood the dog learned how to register a complaint without inflicting any damage.Bite inhibition is one of the most misunderstood aspects of behavioral development in dogs (and other animals). Many owners make the catastrophic mistake of stopping their puppy from mouthing altogether. If a puppy is not allowed to play-bite, he cannot develop reliable bite inhibition. Pups are born virtual biting machines with needle sharp teeth for one reason only — so that they learn their bites hurt before they develop the jaw strength to cause appreciable harm. However, they cannot learn to inhibit the force of their bites if they are never allowed to play-bite and play-fight. Bite inhibition training comprises first teaching the puppy to progressively inhibit the force of his bites until painful puppy play-biting is toned down and transformed into gentle puppy mouthing, and then, and only then, teaching him to progressively inhibit the incidence of his mouthing. Thus the puppy learns that any pressured bite is absolutely unacceptable and that mouthing is by and large inappropriate.#6 Urgency Rating - You have until your puppy is four and a half months old, so take your time to ensure your puppy masters this most important item in his educational curriculum. The more times your puppy bites in play, the safer his jaws will be as an adult since he has had more opportunities to learn that biting hurts. If you are at all worried about your puppy's biting behavior, seek further advice from a Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT) and enroll in a puppy class immediately, so that your puppy may redirect many of his bites towards other puppies during play sessions and so develop stellar bite inhibition.#1 Importance Rating - Bite inhibition is of crucial importance and by far the single most important quality of any dog, or any animal. Living with a dog that does not have reliable bite inhibition is unpleasant and dangerous. Bite inhibition must be acquired during puppyhood. You must fully understand how to teach your puppy bite inhibition. Attempting to teach bite inhibition to an adolescent or adult dog is often extremely difficult, dangerous, and time-consuming.

Help is HERE!

2010-10-26T08:24:00.000-07:00

Behavior Call Line

Your training ANSWER for over 25 years!

CALL TODAY (413) 559-7011

Our behavior line may the answers you are looking for!
There are many behavioral issues and concerns that we can be helped right over the phone.

Common issues our Behavior Line encounters:

•Is it aggression or not ?
•Problems with a new puppy or dog (chewing, barking, etc)
•Introducing a new dog or other pet
•Counter Surfing and Begging
•Crate training and housebreaking
•Basic problem solving
•And so much more…
The next step is calling us at 413-559-7011
or email us at info@leadingthewaydogtraining.com
We will schedule your exclusive consultation. We may even be able to help you TODAY.

change your dog anxiety almost overnight....

2010-10-14T16:36:00.000-07:00

Wish you could change your dog anxiety almost overnight.... I would like you to consider Thundershirt. With over 25 years experience I have found Thundershirts to be a wonderful option for owners with their dogs. There are many tools available to help dogs remain calm out there what I like about Thundershirts is the user-friendly options, its price is great and the success is proven. Combined with a behavior modification program you will see great changes!

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With its patent-pending design, Thundershirt’s gentle, constant pressure has a dramatic calming effect for most dogs if they are anxious, fearful or over-excited. It is this pressure that has a dramatic calming effect for most dogs if they are anxious, fearful or over-excited. From real world experience, we know with certainty that Thundershirt DOES WORK. That is why we are able to offer a money-back guarantee. Based on surveys completed by over 1,000 Thundershirt users, over 85% of dogs show significant improvement in anxiety symptoms when using Thundershirt.

As for WHY Thundershirt’s gentle pressure works to calm a dog, experts such as Dr. Temple Grandin believe that pressure has a calming effect on the nervous system. Using pressure to relieve anxiety has been a common practice for years. For example:

TTouch dog trainers use pressure to address a wide variety of anxieties. Veterinarians use pressure to relax cattle when they are administering vaccinations. People with autism use pressure to relieve their persistent anxiety. Children with certain behavioral problems use pressure shirts and weighted vests to relax and focus. Parents use swaddling to calm an inconsolable newborn infant. Until now, there just hasn’t been a well-designed, inexpensive pressure wrap commonly used for dog anxiety. Thundershirt is changing that! Thousands of veterinarians and dog trainers now recommend Thundershirts for their anxiety cases.

Fall and Winter Update 2010...Come Join the fun!!!

2010-10-13T14:47:00.000-07:00

Mondays:
Evening Private Lessons

Tuesdays:
Daytime Class—Meets 9:30-10:30am.
Skill Builder—6 week class. A little of this and that...jam packed class takes beginner skills and brings them to the upper levels with extended long sits, downs, etc. Advanced leash work that lays the foundation for off-leash work. The
distractions get more intense and the expectations get bigger.
This is an open enrollment class. Limited to 5 handlers. Cost is just $115.

Tuesday Evenings:
Manners 101—Meets 6-7 pm . Cost is $160 (Can include the Saturday Morning class as well for the same $160!)
Open Enrollment: 8 week pass

Wednesdays:
Skill Builder/AKC Canine Good Citizenship—10 Week Class Meets 6-7pm.
This jam packed class takes beginner skills and brings them to the upper levels with extended long sits, downs, etc. Advanced leash work that lays the foundation for off-leash work. The distractions get more intense and the expectations get bigger. This class will also include an opportunity to earn your CGC (Canine Good Citizen). Training is fun and useful. You will find that training for the CGC award will help you establish a closer bond with your dog.
On-Going enrollment Cost is $190 and includes the CGC test.

Thursdays:
Evening Private Lessons

Fridays:
Trick, Targets and Games Oh My!:—3 Month Class Meets 5:45-6:30pm.
This class will cover tricks such as roll over, play dead, wipe your nose and yes, READ! This is an open enrollment class with a collaborative effort on the part of the handler.
Cost is $150.
You may join at any point…..Come have some fun!!!

Saturdays:
Manners 101—Meets 9-10am. Cost is $160 (Can include the Tuesday Evening class as well for the same $160!)
Open Enrollment: 8 Week Pass

Saturdays:
Scent Games—Meets 10-11am. 9 Week Class.
This fun class full of games will explore the skills your dog has and can enhance his/her tracking and scent abilities. This class will work indoors and out.
Oct 2- Dec 4, 2010. Cost is just $160. You can still join.....CALL TODAY
No class October 9th in honor of Columbus Day Weekend

Sundays:
Graduate Handling and Training— Meets 9-10am.
This wonderful class is for the most experienced handlers. It will focus on advanced skill building; ultimate distractions while maintaining focus; social skills and so much more. This class will also explore a variety of training skills, theories and sports, including drill team, free style, Rally-O and agility. Class is open to students with the desire to improve and bond more with their dog. Limited to 8 students. Pro-rated for June-Sept 2010**** EXTENDED UNTIL DEC 19, 2010, *** New cost is $500 for 6 months of class JOIN TODAY!!! PRO-RATED

Workshops 1 and two day events!

2010-08-05T05:22:00.000-07:00

OUR ONE -DAY WORKSHOPS

**** Please NOTE PRE-Regisitration Needed****

CALL TODAY!!

Focus, Control and Recall EVERYTIME ™ and Counter Surfin: Saturday TBA at 2:00-3:30pm. Learn to keep your dog’s focus, in any situation, including dog parks, around those pesky squirrels; learn Come When Called EVERYTIME ™and so much more. Fee is $40. Limited to 5 students.

On the Road Again: (one day class) Saturday TBA, 2010 at 3:45-4:45pm. This fun class provides the desired skills in order to handle your dog in public. Class participants will practice skills in several different locations in the community. Fee is $45

Make your Own Dog Toys & Desserts: Sat Oct 23, at 7:00-8:30pm. A great gift for your fur-ball. Toys made for all of your furry friends (DOGS & CATS). We will make a tug toy and other fun dog toys. $15 includes supplies while also enjoying wonderful desserts! Please, NO DOGS.

Polite Greetings, Leash Walking and Too Much Barking: Sunday TBA at 12:00-2:00pm. Does your dog's pulling or jumping embarrass you? Or maybe you just want your arm back in its socket and the scratches on your legs to heal. Whatever your reasons for teaching your dog not to jump up during greetings and to walk politely on leash, it's a great idea! Fee is $40 Limited to 5 students.

Jumps, Weaves and Tunnels: This workshop will allow you to explore the fastest growing dog sport and take you and your dog’s skills to the next level. You and your dog will learn trust and teamwork as you progress in your skills with sequencing obstacles and learn the footwork needed to be successful in the sport of agility. Your dog will jump through tires, tunnels, and weave poles, much more. (Dogs must be a minimum of 5 months of age to jump at the proper height for health and safety reasons) This 1 day class is limited to 6 dogs. Meets on Sat in TBA from 11-12:30 just $15!

Weds: This 1 day prep class and test for thr AKC Canine Good Citizenship Earning the CGC award will ensure that your dog is a well-respected member of your community. The Canine Good Citizen award is one of the first AKC certificates your dog can own and CGC provides an excellent foundation for all other training. Canine Good Citizen training is fun and useful. You’ll find that training for the CGC award will help you establish a closer bond with your dog 1 day class meets Sat Dec 19 11am-1pm the fee is only $40, includes the test! EMAIL ME IF INTERESTED!!! Invite your friends! Open to all!!!

OUR 2-DAY WORKSHOP

Sat-Sun:
Therapy Dog Weekend Workshop: The focus of this weekend is on preparing the handler and dog for the therapy environment. This 2-day workshop is ideal for both the novice and experienced handler and will include field trips into the community to gain skills. Skills include working around medical equipment, loud noises, food, toys, and other distractions. Topics covered include stress and calming signals in dogs, infection control, medical ethics, general liability, and handling difficult visitation situations. Beginning Sat TBA this workshop is just $115 Limited to just 5 teams We will meet from 10-4 both days.

The whole Sha-bang: this Weekend Behavior Workshop covers is all! Polite Greeting, Leash Walking, Barking, Off-Leash Control, and Counter Surfing and behavior in public: this JAM packed class. Sat-Sunday 10-4 both days. Fee is just $120 for the entire weekend Limited to 5 handlers. Nov 13-14

Late Summer and Fall Class and Workshop 2010! Filling fast!

2010-08-04T17:20:00.000-07:00

Summer/Fall Schedule!

This next session is the best ever! We have a tons of classes. You asked we have a jam packed one and two day workshops! That's right two day workshops... Great for a busy summer schedule! So grab your calendars and a pen! Updates on social too!!!

Special Passes:
All Access Workshops and Classes Pass: $499 (to add Graduate Handler add just $699)

Mondays:
Evening Private Lessons

Tues:
Daytime Class:
Skill Builder, a little of this that. Leash work, heeling, improved stays, intense distrations. Will work the streets of Florence or at the training center Beginning On-going. 9:30-10:30am. Limited to 5 handlers cost is just $115 (or if paired with Manners 101) 10/4

Skill Builder Session 2: beginning Sept 14, 2010 10-11 am until late Oct or first major frost cost is $150 10/4

Tues Evening
Open Enrollment: 8 week pass
Manners 101 6-7 pm $160
Skill Buillder/Experinced Handler
cost is $120 7-8

Weds:
Therapy Dog Class: The focus of this class is on preparing the handler and dog for the therapy environment. This class is ideal for both the novice and experienced handler and will include field trips into the community to gain skills. Skills include working around medical equipment, loud noises, food, toys, and other distractions. Topics covered include stress and calming signals in dogs, infection control, medical ethics, general liability, and handling difficult visitation situations. Beginning Weds. Sept This 6 week class is limited to 6 students. Fee is $140. 6-7pm

Scent Games: this fun 5 week class will explore the fun games and skills your dog has and can enhance your tracking and scent abilities. This fun 4 week class will work indoors and out.
Weds 6-7, beginning Sept 1, supplies list given the beginning of class. Just $75 No class Sept 22

Weds: AKC Canine Good Citizenship Earning the CGC award will ensure that your dog is a well-respected member of your community. The Canine Good Citizen award is one of the first AKC certificates your dog can own and CGC provides an excellent foundation for all other training. Canine Good Citizen training is fun and useful. You’ll find that training for the CGC award will help you establish a closer bond with your dog 10 week class meets Tues Sept 28 7-8 pm the fee is $190 includes test

Thurs: Private lessons

Fridays:
Trick, Targets and Games Oh My!: This class will cover tricks such as roll over, play dead, wipe your nose and yes, READ! This is an on-going class and a collaborative effort type class. Class fee for 3 months is $150. Fridays 5:45-6:30pm. Starting June 18, thru Aug 27, you may join at any point... Come have some fun!!!

Sat:
Manners 101 9-10am

Sat: 4 week class
Tree hugging.... Nature luv'n Dog:
This 4 class, will explore the trails and parks in the comunity. Come commune with your dog. Just $110 Sat @ 11-12 am begining Aug 14 please bring a snack for you and your dog to each class.

4 week class: On the Road Again: beginning Saturday Oct 2 at 11:00-12:15 pm This fun class 4 week provides the desired skills in order to handle your dog in public. Class participants will practice skills in several different locations in the community. Fee is $130 Location may include Look Park, Children’s Park, Downtown Northampton, Center of Florence, etc. 10/23

Sat in Oct:
Sat: AKC Canine Good Citizenship Earning the CGC award will ensure that your dog is a well-respected member of your community. The Canine Good Citizen award is one of the first AKC certificates your dog can own and CGC provides an excellent foundation for all other training. Canine Good Citizen training is fun and useful. You’ll find that training for the CGC award will help you establish a closer bond with your dog 10 week class meets Oct 2 @10-11am the fee is $190 includes test

Sundays:
Graduate Handling and Training: This class is for the most experienced handlers. It will focus on advanced skill building; ultimate distractions while maintaining focus; social skills and so much more. This wonderful class will explore a variety of training skills, theories and sports, including drill team, free style, Rally-O and agility. This class is open to students with the desire to improve and bond more with their dog,. The fee is $600 for 6 months. Limited to 8 students. Meets on Sundays, 9-10am. Pro-rated for June-Sept **** next session begins Oct 3, *** new cost is $500, for 6 months of class

Reactive Dog Class Sundays 12-1pm

Coming up.....classes
Weds:
Off-Leash Extravaganza: This is truly an off –leash class. In fact, you will leave your leashes at the door. This class provides all the skills needed for off-leash handling and control. It is ideal for graduates of Graduate Handling or Experienced Handler. Beginning TBA @7-8pm, this 10 week class is $190,

OUR ONE -DAY WORKSHOPS

Focus, Control and Recall EVERYTIME ™ and Counter Surfin: Saturday Aug 21 at 2:00-3:30pm. Learn to keep your dog’s focus, in any situation, including dog parks, around those pesky squirrels; learn Come When Called EVERYTIME ™and so much more. Fee is $40. Limited to 5 students.

On the Road Again: (one day class) Saturday Aug 21, 2010 at 3:45-4:45pm. This fun class provides the desired skills in order to handle your dog in public. Class participants will practice skills in several different locations in the community. Fee is $45

Polite Greetings, Leash Walking and Too Much Barking: Sunday Aug 28 at 12:00-2:00pm. Does your dog's pulling or jumping embarrass you? Or maybe you just want your arm back in its socket and the scratches on your legs to heal. Whatever your reasons for teaching your dog not to jump up during greetings and to walk politely on leash, it's a great idea! Fee is $40 Limited to 5 students.

Jumps, Weaves and Tunnels: This workshop will allow you to explore the fastest growing dog sport and take you and your dog’s skills to the next level. You and your dog will learn trust and teamwork as you progress in your skills with sequencing obstacles and learn the footwork needed to be successful in the sport of agility. Your dog will jump through tires, tunnels, and weave poles, much more. (Dogs must be a minimum of 5 months of age to jump at the proper height for health and safety reasons) This 1 day class is limited to 6 dogs. Meets on Sat in Out 23 from 12-1:30 just $15!

Weds: This 1 day prep class and test for thr AKC Canine Good Citizenship Earning the CGC award will ensure that your dog is a well-respected member of your community. The Canine Good Citizen award is one of the first AKC certificates your dog can own and CGC provides an excellent foundation for all other training. Canine Good Citizen training is fun and useful. You’ll find that training for the CGC award will help you establish a closer bond with your dog 1 day class meets Sat Aug 17 1:45am-3pm the fee is only $40, includes the test! EMAIL ME IF INTERESTED!!! Invite your friends! Open to all!!!

OUR 2-DAY WORKSHOP
Sat-Sun:
Therapy Dog Weekend Workshop: The focus of this weekend is on preparing the handler and dog for the therapy environment. This 2-day workshop is ideal for both the novice and experienced handler and will include field trips into the community to gain skills. Skills include working around medical equipment, loud noises, food, toys, and other distractions. Topics covered include stress and calming signals in dogs, infection control, medical ethics, general liability, and handling difficult visitation situations. Beginning Sat Sept 18-Sun 19 this workshop is just $115 Limited to just 5 teams We will meet from 10-4 both days.

The whole Sha-bang: this Weekend Behavior Workshop covers is all! Polite Greeting, Leash Walking, Barking, Off-Leash Control, and Counter Surfing and behavior in public: this JAM packed class. Sat-Sunday 10-4 both days. Fee is just $120 for the entire weekend Limited to 5 handlers. Nov 6-7

Aug 7th POTLUCK Summer Mixer!!! Come have a dog-gone good time!

2010-08-04T17:17:00.000-07:00

AUG 7, 2010!!! Don't miss all the fun!!!

Summer Potluck Gathering! This quartley event is a hallmark of Leading the Way's desire to create a real community. This year summer potluck will be hosted by Janet and her dog Sally at her home in South Deerfield, Sawmill Hill Rd they have wonderful, very large fenced yard!!! So bring a dish, a chair and you best dog themed Yankee swap gift (valued at $25) we are planning a cookout. Sat Aug 7 From 5-8pm.... See you there!!!

20 Sawmill Plain Rd
S. Deerfild‎ MA‎ 01373
Look for the ballons at the end of the road!!!

To avoid to many of the same thing please follow the breakdown below: for 10-15 people
-Sporting breeds: please bring a main dish for the grille ****(hamburger have been spoken for)***
-Working Breeds: side dish
-Small breeds: dessert
-All other breeds please bring either side dish or dessert
-Drinks provided

Please note this is a social event in an outdoor setting for dogs and their people. For those that attend social or doggie daycare regularly this ideal event to attend. Their will be as many as 20 dogs, and at least that many humans. It is a great of fun! However to be a relaxing event for all dogs should have solid social skills. If you are not sure please call me, you can always attend without your dog there will be many to share.

2010-06-23T08:04:00.000-07:00

Summer 2010
This summer session is the best ever! We have a ton of classes. You asked...we have a jam packed one and two day workshops! That's right two day workshops... Great for a busy summer schedule! So grab your calendars and a pen!

**** please NOTE **** disreguard all past dates**** Summer 2010

Special Passes:
All-Access Pass is $599, includes all classes and workshops (expect those taught by outside instruction) to attend graduate handler please add $200

Workshops only please Pass: $399 attend all workshops!!!

Mondays:
Evening Private Lessons

Tues:
Daytime Class:
Skill Builder, a little of this that. Leash work, heeling, improved stays, intense distrations. Will work the streets of Florence or at the training center Beginning 6- last Monday in Aug. 10am. Limited to 5 handlers

Manners 101 6-7 pm
Experinced Handler 7-8

Weds:
Therapy Dog Class: The focus of this class is on preparing the handler and dog for the therapy environment. This class is ideal for both the novice and experienced handler and will include field trips into the community to gain skills. Skills include working around medical equipment, loud noises, food, toys, and other distractions. Topics covered include stress and calming signals in dogs, infection control, medical ethics, general liability, and handling difficult visitation situations. Beginning Weds. July 7 , 2010 This 6 week class is limited to 6 students. Fee is $140.

Weds:
Jumps, Weaves and Tunnels: This class will allow you to explore the fastest growing dog sport and take you and your dog’s skills to the next level. You and your dog will learn trust and teamwork as you progress in your skills with sequencing obstacles and learn the footwork needed to be successful in the sport of agility. Your dog will jump through tires, tunnels, and weave poles, much more. (Dogs must be a minimum of 5 months of age to jump at the proper height for health and safety reasons) This 8 week class is limited to 6 dogs. Beginning June 30, 2010 Fee is just $180. Meets on Weds 6-7pm.

Weds: AKC Canine Good Citizenship Earning the CGC award will ensure that your dog is a well-respected member of your community. The Canine Good Citizen award is one of the first AKC certificates your dog can own and CGC provides an excellent foundation for all other training. Canine Good Citizen training is fun and useful. You’ll find that training for the CGC award will help you establish a closer bond with your dog 10 week class meets June 30 Weds 7-8 pm the fee is $210 includes test
All Classes Limited to 6 handlers unless otherwise noted.

Thurs: Private lessons

Fridays:
Trick, Targets and Games Oh My!: This class will cover tricks such as roll over, play dead, wipe your nose and yes, READ! This is an on-going class and a collaborative effort type class. Class fee for 3 months is $150. Fridays 5:45-6:30pm. Starting June 18, thru Aug 27, you may join at any point... Come have some fun!!!

Friday Social: is closed-FULL, 6:30-7:30 ish

Sat:
Manners 101 9-10
Social 10-11

4 week class
Tree hugging.... Nature luv'n Dog:
This 4 class, will explore the trails and parks in the comunity. Come commune with your dog. Just $110 Sat @11-12 begining July 17 please bring a snack for you and your dog to each class.

4 week class: On the Road Again: beginning Saturday July 17, 2010 at 12:00-1:15 pm This fun class 4 week provides the desired skills in order to handle your dog in public. Class participants will practice skills in several different locations in the community. Fee is $130 Location may include Look Park, Children’s Park, Downtown Northampton, Center of Florence, etc.

Sundays:
Graduate Handling and Training: This class is for the most experienced handlers. It will focus on advanced skill building; ultimate distractions while maintaining focus; social skills and so much more. This wonderful class will explore a variety of training skills, theories and sports, including drill team, free style, Rally-O and agility. This class is open to students with the desire to improve and bond more with their dog,. The fee is $600 for 6 months. Limited to 8 students. Meets on Sundays, 9-10am. Pro-rated for June-Sept

Social: 10-11

Coming up.....classes
Weds:
Off-Leash Extravaganza: This is truly an off –leash class. In fact, you will leave your leashes at the door. This class provides all the skills needed for off-leash handling and control. It is ideal for graduates of Graduate Handling or Experienced Handler. Beginning Weds Sept 1, @7-8pm, this 10 week class is $190, if you register before Aug 1, just $160!

OUR ONE -DAY WORKSHOPS

Focus, Control and Recall EVERYTIME ™ and Counter Surfin: Saturday July 24 at 2:00-3:30pm. Learn to keep your dog’s focus, in any situation, including dog parks, around those pesky squirrels; learn Come When Called EVERYTIME ™and so much more. Fee is $40. Limited to 5 students.

On the Road Again: (one day class) Saturday July 24, 2010 at 3:45-4:45pm. This fun class provides the desired skills in order to handle your dog in public. Class participants will practice skills in several different locations in the community. Fee is $45

Make your Own Dog Toys & Desserts: Sat July 24, at 7:00-8:30pm. A great gift for your fur-ball. Toys made for all of your furry friends (DOGS & CATS). We will make a tug toy and other fun dog toys. $15 includes supplies while also enjoying wonderful desserts! Please, NO DOGS.

Polite Greetings, Leash Walking and Too Much Barking: Sunday July 25, at 12:00-2:00pm. Does your dog's pulling or jumping embarrass you? Or maybe you just want your arm back in its socket and the scratches on your legs to heal. Whatever your reasons for teaching your dog not to jump up during greetings and to walk politely on leash, it's a great idea! Fee is $40 Limited to 5 students.

Jumps, Weaves and Tunnels: This workshop will allow you to explore the fastest growing dog sport and take you and your dog’s skills to the next level. You and your dog will learn trust and teamwork as you progress in your skills with sequencing obstacles and learn the footwork needed to be successful in the sport of agility. Your dog will jump through tires, tunnels, and weave poles, much more. (Dogs must be a minimum of 5 months of age to jump at the proper height for health and safety reasons) This 1 day class is limited to 6 dogs. Meets on Sat in Aug 10 from 11-12:30 just $15!

Weds: This 1 day prep class and test for thr AKC Canine Good Citizenship Earning the CGC award will ensure that your dog is a well-respected member of your community. The Canine Good Citizen award is one of the first AKC certificates your dog can own and CGC provides an excellent foundation for all other training. Canine Good Citizen training is fun and useful. You’ll find that training for the CGC award will help you establish a closer bond with your dog 1 day class meets Sat Aug 17 11am-1pm the fee is only $40, includes the test! EMAIL ME IF INTERESTED!!! Invite your friends! Open to all!!!

OUR 2-DAY WORKSHOP
Sat-Sun:
Therapy Dog Weekend Workshop: The focus of this weekend is on preparing the handler and dog for the therapy environment. This 2-day workshop is ideal for both the novice and experienced handler and will include field trips into the community to gain skills. Skills include working around medical equipment, loud noises, food, toys, and other distractions. Topics covered include stress and calming signals in dogs, infection control, medical ethics, general liability, and handling difficult visitation situations. Beginning Sat July 31-Sun Aug 1 this workshop is just $140. Limited to just 5 teams We will meet from 10-4 both days.

The whole Sha-bang: this Weekend Behavior Workshop covers is all! Polite Greeting, Leash Walking, Barking, Off-Leash Control, and Counter Surfing and behavior in public: this JAM packed class. Sat-Sunday 10-4 both days. Fee is just $160 for the entire weekend Limited to 5 handlers. Aug 14-15

Summer Potluck Gathering! This quartley event is a hallmark of Leading the Way's desire to create a real community. This year summer potluck will be hosted by Janet and her dog Sally at her home in South Deerfield, Sawmill Hill Rd they have wonderful, very large fenced yard!!! So bring a dish, a chair, your dog and your best "dog themed" Yankee swap gift (valued at $25) we are planning a cookout. From 5-8pm.... See you there!!!

To avoid to many of the same thing please follow the breakdown below: for 10-15 people
-Sporting breeds: please bring a main dish for the grille ****(hamburger have been spoken for)***
-Working Breeds: side dish
-Small breeds: dessert
-All other breeds please bring either side dish or dessert
-Drinks provided

**** New clients, please note to attend this wonderful event with YOUR dog please check with me ahead of time******

Military Personnel: Making Arrangements for Your Pets

2010-05-18T16:06:00.000-07:00

The Animal Welfare League of Alexandria

It is very important to keep loved ones close during these uncertain times—including the four-legged members of our families. The Humane Society of the United States, American Humane Association, American Society for the Protection of Animals, and National Animal Control Association urge military families to work hard to keep pets in the family and resist relinquishing these beloved pets to shelters.

If you are in the military, it's important to make prior arrangements for your pets in case you are deployed. If at all possible, arrange for family or friends to care for your pet. When leaving your pet with family or friends, it's a good idea to create a foster care agreement. Having a written agreement will help protect your pet and provide you with the security of knowing your chosen caretaker has the legal right to care for your pet in your absence.

In addition to the agreement, The HSUS has developed a checklist for military pet owners covering things to take care of when leaving their pet with family and friends. And be sure to complete a cat personality profile or a dog personality profile to help your temporary caregiver understand your pet's needs.

If you are unable to arrange care for your pet and need assistance, contact your local animal shelter or breed-placement group. In addition, if you or your pet's caregivers are having trouble affording veterinary care, food, or other supplies, please contact your local animal shelter to see if it has an assistance program.

Taking these simple steps will help ensure that your best friend is properly cared for while you're away. For more information, follow the links below. You can also view our brochure, Caring for Your Pet When You Are Called to Duty—download from HSUS.org

Hiking with your dog

2010-05-04T16:12:00.000-07:00

I am posting this infomation from Gail Fisher, I feel it is an important piece of information. I want to thank you for her information and sharing this reader's experience for all of us to be warned. Thank you! So helpful for all of us who visit off leash areas, dog parks or hiking, etc.

The Critter Exchange
By: Gail T. Fisher

Many dog owners want to take the dog along when they’re out in nature, taking a hike. There are three important things to keep in mind about hiking with your dog: Your dog, other hikers, and other dogs on the trail.

A reader writes: “Hi Gail, Recently I was hiking with my year-old black Lab on trails that are mostly deserted on weekdays. I bring a lead, but often let her run free, as she always comes when called. She is very friendly and adores people.

Twice recently, my dog met people hiking. As soon as they saw her, they acted aggressively, stomping their feet, waving their arms, and shouting, "Go away!!" or "Go Home!" The first time was a man and a woman. The second was a woman with two children. She told the children, "Yell real loud at the dog and stamp your feet the way we were told!" They all shouted at the top of their lungs and stomped their feet at my poor, who usually gets friendly pats from people. Understandably confused, she backed up and barked. She has never barked at anyone on or off the trails before.

I have heard of taking an aggressive approach with black bears, but are hikers being taught to do this to dogs? Is it supposed to work, or would most dogs react the way mine did - confused and defensive? This doesn't seem right to me. I am sure that if someone is steering people in the wrong direction, your column could do a great service by steering them right. Thanks for your time.”

I can’t believe someone is actually recommending this approach for dealing with unfamiliar dogs. Such offensive behavior could well provoke even a friendly dog to attack.
How different temperament dogs react
Dogs react in one of four ways when they see a stranger. Friendly dogs like the reader’s Lab, approach with affable intentions. An aloof dog ignores strangers. A fearful dog will avoid people. Finally, and least likely, is an aggressive dog – one that might attack if provoked. On a path in the woods where the dog can avoid the stranger, such an attack is unlikely.

Screaming, arm waving, yelling and stomping provokes different responses in each of these dogs. The friendly dog reacts as the reader’s adolescent did – confused, apprehensive, perhaps self-protective and defensive (backing up and barking). His experience is that people are usually nice – but these strangers are not. If this happens repeatedly, the friendly dog becomes mistrustful, developing one of the other three reactions.
The aloof dog might feel threatened by such aberrant behavior. If he is unable to ignore them, he might react aggressively. The fearful dog will run away. But with the aggressive dog, the hikers own behavior will cause precisely what they fear: the dog will feel threatened and is likely to attack. Whatever the dog’s temperament, hikers should never behave this way.
How to react to an unknown dog
It is natural for a frightened person, especially a child, to scream, wave their arms and run away, when frightened of a dog, but this is absolutely the wrong thing to do. Such behavior is far more likely to provoke an attack than standing still, pretending to “be a tree.”
Standing still rarely results in any behavior other than perhaps curious sniffing. And once the dog has investigated the person, it will likely move on.

On their website, the HSUS recommends: “When approached by a dog you don’t know, don’t run or scream. Instead, stand still with your hands at your sides and do not make direct eye contact with or speak to the dog. Teach children to ‘be a tree’ until a dog goes away and practice with a stuffed toy dog.”

The SPCA website says: “Do not try to outrun an attacking dog or use defense mechanisms such as kicking or screaming.....Stand still and present the side - not the front - of your body to the dog. It's a smaller target.”

Even more important than being a “smaller target,” standing sideways is less threatening than facing a dog straight on. Facing directly toward an unfamiliar dog might be interpreted as a challenge or threat.
Observe two unfamiliar dogs move toward each other, and you’ll see them curve as they approach. Then they stand sideways as they get acquainted – body posture that says, “I mean you no harm.”
Dog owner’s responsibility
Another issue when hiking is our responsibility as dog owners both to our dogs, and to the other hikers. Not everyone loves dogs, and some people are terrified of them. Hikers have a right to walk trails without fear of a dog – even a friendly adolescent Labrador retriever.
So owners have a responsibility to keep dogs under control either leashed or always in sight, and trained to come when called. Don’t let them to approach strangers unless the hiker says it’s OK for your dog to approach. This creates an environment where everyone – dog hater, dog lover and dog – can share the trail.

And finally – don’t forget your dog. I got the following note from a friend:

Hi Gail, “As you know, I work at the Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Center in Campton and give a lot of hiking advice. We often have people wanting to hike with a dog. I tell them that the dog should be leashed or kept very close, the hiker keeping a sharp eye on them. Even the best-trained dog can stray, get interested in something or get spooked by a bear etc. Every week someone posts a sign for a dog lost on some trail in the forest.

The other problem is unprepared hikers. Last May, a group of young hikers was planning to hike one of the hardest trails – a nine-hour hike for the best hiker. They had an eight-month-old Rottie puppy. I tried to tell them that this was too difficult a hike for a puppy, even if they walk with him every day. Hiking the White Mountains is not like a stroll in the park. One group this summer got to the top of a 4000 ft peak with a dog and couldn't get down. They had no water, (and no brains). Thanks for letting me vent.”

This note says it all! How sad for a beautiful day hike to turn tragic by losing your dog. And force-marching a puppy or dog is cruel. A walk in the country may seem like a fun day for your dog, but unless the dog is conditioned for strenuous exercise, it is inhumane to force him to hike mountain trails for hours on end. Strained muscles, bloody feet, and exhaustion are the milder dangers. Heat stroke (even in cool weather) and collapse are real possibilities.

Carry ample water, a bowl, food if you’re camping out, and first aid treatment such as bandage material for cut pads and feet. If your dog is strong enough and has been properly conditioned to it, he can carry his own supplies in a dog backpack. Never allow a dog to run free in the backpack, and don’t overload him.

We always hope that people will use common sense. Sadly, many don’t. Listening to people in the know, like my friend in Campton, can prevent tragedies.

Dog Park and other off leash area

2010-04-29T08:25:00.000-07:00

First, I would like to say--an off leash dog park, an area with lots of dogs on or off leash, is not the way to socialize scared, reactive, fearful unsocialized dogs or dogs who have been aggressive with people or dogs!!!! Seek help from an experienced trainer!

New users:
Your first visit should be without your dog.
The next visit should be to an off leash area at non-peak times. Peak times are after work on Monday-Friday and midday and the evening hours and all times on weekends.

The first visit can be somewhat stressful for both you and your dog. You may be unsure about how your dog will behave. Your dog, if not well socialized, may be worried by the presence of other dogs and people. Stress and anxiety could ruin the experience for you and your dog(s), so try to keep those initial visits short and happy.

Practical rules for off-leash areas:
1. Pick up Poop! Always! Everywhere!

Yes, even in the long grass and the woods, and especially near paths or water. Deposit poop in trash barrels. If no barrels, take it with you.

Show some respect! Don't leave your dog's mess for others to step in, look at, or clean up. This area is not maintained by tax-supported city workers. It's your job to keep it clean. Thousands of dogs use this area, and poop accumulates faster than it degrades.

Also, some dogs EAT poop - don't add to the misery of their owners!
Poop run-off pollutes our ponds, lakes and streams with nutrients.
POOP KILLS public opinion and undermines the reputation of all dog owners.

2. Keep your dog leashed until you are within the off-leash boundary. Be sure to be a distance from the parking areas.

If you choose to keep your dog on or off leash please remember: A leashed dog often feels threatened when other dogs approach them. They may bark, growl, or even lunge to ward off perceived threats, triggering a similar response in other dogs. This is why people who walk their dogs on-leash are often afraid of off-leash dogs, so please respect the off-leash boundary. This is also why it can be difficult to control your leashed dog when passing other dogs in the parking lot or on the access paths. Keep as much distance as you can from the other dogs. You may even step aside and wait until another dog passes. Try to focus your dog's attention on you rather than the other dog. Move quickly and calmly past the dog. Once your leashed dog no longer has eye contact with the passing dog, your dog should calm down.

If you do not have a reliable recall (come when called) DO NOT LET YOUR DOG OFF LEASH. Instead, use a long training line ( a leash 10 feet or more--NOT FLEXI) attached to the dog's collar (it's much easier to catch them). Drop the line and let the dog run freely. Periodically call your dog by name only, do not use the word come, again just their name. Once they come to you, say good come and give a tasty treat and release them again. Your dog should suddenly become more interested in following you than in running away or ignoring you. Praise and reward your dog when it comes to you. Repeat this exercise each time you visit the site. ALWAYS reward a success!

4. Keep walking! Avoid the temptation to congregate at the entrance.

Walking helps the dogs perceive the site as neutral territory, which minimizes turf battles and other canine misunderstandings. Remember that all dogs have a natural instinct to defend their space, and some dogs have a stronger instinct than others do. If you have one of those "friendly" dogs, try not to let it run up and greet an unfamiliar dog. From a dog's point of view, especially shy dogs or well-trained dogs, this kind of behavior can be seen as rude or threatening. That "friendly" dog may provoke a natural correction response from the other dog. Keep your groups small and keep walking!

5. Supervise your dog at all times.

KNOW YOUR DOG. Avoid situations that are likely to cause problems for your dog or other dogs. Be willing to work with other dog owners to prevent incidents. Leash and leave the site if your dog is having a bad day or is showing signs of unacceptable behavior.

Understand that dogs have different temperaments and play styles. Some dogs are aloof and don't like to play, some seem quite rough in their play, some are party animals and will attempt to provoke a chase by nipping or barking. Educate yourself on dog behavior, observe your dog's response to situations, and ask questions. A behavior that concerns you may simply be a more rambunctious play style or an invitation to chase. On the other hand, owners of rambunctious dogs must be sensitive to the needs of shy dogs and be ready to move to other parts of the site to prevent incidents.

Beware of breaking up dogfights. Do NOT reach in to pull the dogs apart. A good approach is to carry a water bottle and squirt water in the dogs' faces to distract them. Once the dogs are distracted, you can separate the dogs more safely.

6. Supervise children closely.

Keep your child close and do not allow running, screaming or biking.
Many dogs were not raised with children. A child who screams or runs can trigger a dog's prey instincts (chasing or biting).

Do not give your child treats to pass out to strange dogs. Treats can create competition between dogs and your child might be caught in the middle.

Do not allow your child to approach strange dogs without permission from the owner. Many dogs have little experience with children. A strange dog could feel challenged by a child's overly friendly approach and may snap or growl.

7. Keep the area safe and clean.

8. Take responsibility for the actions of your dog.

Remember, by law, you are liable for damage and injuries inflicted by your dog. Offer to pay for vet bills, doctor bills and replace damaged property. Involved persons should exchange names and phone numbers. Report serious incidents by calling 911 if necessary.

9. Be a responsible dog owner.

Keep licenses and vaccinations up to date.
Spay or neuter your dog.
Train your dog in basic obedience.
Educate yourself about dog behavior (many books, magazines and websites are available).

The scoop on poop
Many people believe that disposing poop in the trash is environmentally irresponsible. In fact, it's the dog poop left on the ground that poses the greater environmental threat. We all know that poop is "fertilizer," but we may not all realize that these nutrients flow directly, or via storm sewers, to our lakes, ponds and streams. Leaving poop near water, on sloped ground, or on paved surfaces is irresponsible and the real consequence is water pollution!

Other people believe that it's OK to let the poop biodegrade "as nature intended." However, biodegradation is a slow process, especially when the weather is cold. With the large number of dogs using off-leash areas, poop accumulates faster than it degrades. The accumulation exposes our pets to harmful parasites and our shoes, cars and homes to unpleasant dog poop contamination (do you know what your dog is stepping in?). Also, there are some dogs that EAT poop. Please don't add to their diet!

Few people realize that the most important reason to pick up poop is to help reform our reputation with the general public. Abandoned poop piles foster the notion that dog owners are rude and irresponsible, and that dogs are a public nuisance. Indeed, we cannot defend a dog owner who lets their dog poop in a public space (or in somebody's yard) and then leaves the mess for others to smell, look at, step in or clean up. Like it or not, off-leash recreation is a controversial issue for local governments and there is a strong anti-dog sentiment that persists in the political process. Dog poop tops the list of complaints about dogs, far exceeding concerns about dog aggression and public safety. POOP KILLS public opinion! And public opinion is what matters most in efforts to obtain recreational space that we can enjoy with our dogs.

Please understand that these off-leash areas are maintained entirely by the goodwill of site users, not by tax-supported public servants. Your action sets an example, good or bad, for others who use these areas. There may be a time that you find yourself without a bag or simply miss seeing your dog "do its business." Please pick up a stray poop pile to offset that pile that someone else picks up for YOU! Better yet, carry extra bags to offer would-be offenders or pick up a few stray piles along the path. It's everyone's job to help keep our site clean.

Be part of the solution, not part of the problem.

Chocolate Poisoning in Dogs- Chocolate Toxicity in Dogs

2010-04-27T08:22:00.000-07:00

Chocolate Poisoning in Dogs
Chocolate Toxicity in Dogs

from PetMD

Dogs, especially puppies, are known for eating things when they are not supposed to. This can be a dangerous combination when there is chocolate around the house. Also, dogs have an excellent sense of smell, making it fairly easy to find any secret hiding spots for the chocolate.

Chocolate is derived from the roasted seeds of Theobroma cacao, which contains certain properties that can be toxic to animals: caffeine and theobromine. If ingested, these two ingredients can also lead to various medical complications and may even prove fatal for your pet.

If you would like to learn how chocolate poisoning affects cats, please visit this page in the PetMD Health Library.

Symptoms and Types

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Increased body temperature
• Increased reflex responses
• Muscle rigidity
• Rapid breathing
• Increased heart rate
• Low blood pressure
• Seizures
• Advanced signs (cardiac failure, weakness, and coma)

The amount and type of chocolate ingested is also important, as they are determining factors for the severity of the toxicity. The three types of chocolate that you must be aware of are:

1. Milk Chocolate – Mild signs of toxicity can occur when 0.7 ounces per pound of body weight is ingested; severe toxicity occurs when two ounces per pound of body weight is ingested (or as little as one pound of milk chocolate for a 20-pound dog).
2. Semi-Sweet Chocolate – Mild signs of toxicity can occur when 0.3 ounce per pound of body weight is ingested; severe toxicity occurs when one ounce per pound of body weight is ingested (or as little as six ounces of semi-sweet chocolate for a 20-pound dog).
3. Baking Chocolate – This type of chocolate has the highest concentration of caffeine and theobromine. Therefore, as little as two small one-ounce squares of baking chocolate can be toxic to a 20-pound dog (or 0.3 ounce per pound of body weight).

Causes

In the right quantities chocolate can become toxic for any dog. So be wary of feeding your pet anything that might contain chocolate and always keep it out of reach.

Diagnosis

Your veterinarian will perform a complete physical exam, including a chemical blood profile, electrolyte panel and a urinalysis. These tests will help determine if there is a chocolate/caffeine overdose.

Blood can also be taken to test for theobromine concentrations, while an ECG is performed to help determine if the heart is showing any abnormalities in rhythm or conduction of heart beats.

Treatment

The pet should be seen immediately by your veterinarian, keeping it cool, calm, and in a quiet place. It is common practice to induce the dog to vomit and control any seizures, should they occur.

Fluids will be given to keep your pet hydrated as its condition improves. To avoid any further problems, it should be fed a bland diet for several days.

Prevention

It is crucial to your pet’s health to keep chocolate products out of their reach, as there is no antidote to chocolate toxicity.

Scared Dog? Aggressive? Biting?

2010-04-06T13:01:00.000-07:00

Our approach and hope is to invite you to reflect. Instead of saying, "My dog is aggressive," we hope you will begin to say "I want to understand why my dog is doing that so I can change that behavior."

This program is all about setting you and your dog up for success, in a small, calm and focused supportive group. It is all about desensitizing and counter-conditioning your dog to their own personal “provoking stimuli.” This class is designed with safety first. With this in mind, the class is structured to be as safe as humanly possible. If your dog's limit is being 50 feet away, that’s where we will start!

Class size is limited to five dogs. Dogs are rotated in small, short sessions, allowing for greater success. The class gradually builds tolerance and acceptance of their fear. Class members offer each other support, since everyone understands what they are going through. A prerequisite for acceptance in this class is a Behavior Consultation — this MUST be completed before the first night of class. This class has on-going enrollment. Space is limited to 5 dogs.

Stop the leash pulling...stop the jumping....end the barking

2010-04-03T11:18:00.000-07:00

Polite Greetings, Leash Walking and Too Much Barking: Thursday April 22, at 7:00-8:15pm. Does your dog's pulling or jumping embarrass you? Or maybe you just want your arm back in its socket and the scratches on your legs to heal. Whatever your reasons for teaching your dog not to jump up during greetings and to walk politely on leash, it's a great idea! Fee is $35. Limited to 5 students

How are your dog leash skills...are your counters safe...

2010-04-01T11:07:00.000-07:00

Focus, Control and Recall EVERYTIME ™ and Counter Surfin: Saturday April 24 at 2:00-3:30pm. Learn to keep your dog’s focus, in any situation, including dog parks, around those pesky squirrels; learn Come When Called EVERYTIME ™and so much more. Fee is $40. Limited to 5 students.

On the Road Again

2010-03-30T11:03:00.000-07:00

This jam packed one day class is Saturday April 10, 2010 at 3:00-5:00pm. This fun class provides the desired skills in order to handle your dog in public. Class participants will practice skills in several different locations in the community. Fee is $60 RSVP! Please

Canine Influenza

2010-03-17T14:49:00.000-07:00

Control of Canine Influenza in Dogs —
Questions, Answers, and Interim Guidelines
updated December 1, 2005 from www.avma.org

The following document has been developed via consultation among the American Veterinary Medical Association, the University of Florida, Cornell University, and the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, and is advisory in nature. It is intended to answer common questions and to provide guidance on managing affected dogs and for persons working with or handling affected dogs. This document reflects what is known as of October 17, 2005, and may be updated as more information becomes available.

So what is canine influenza?

Canine influenza is a highly contagious respiratory infection of dogs that is caused by a virus. The canine influenza virus is closely related to the virus that causes equine influenza and it is thought that the equine influenza virus mutated to produce the canine influenza virus.

Two clinical syndromes have been seen in dogs infected with the canine influenza virus—a mild form of the disease and a more severe form that is accompanied by pneumonia.

About the mild form—Dogs suffering with the mild form of canine influenza develop a soft, moist cough that persists for 10 to 30 days. Some dogs have a dry cough similar to the "kennel cough" caused by Bordetella bronchiseptica/parainfluenza virus complex. For this reason, canine influenza virus infections are frequently mistaken for "kennel cough." Dogs with the mild form of influenza may also have a thick nasal discharge, which is usually caused by a secondary bacterial infection.

About the severe form—Dogs with the severe form of canine influenza develop high fevers (104ºF to 106ºF) and have clinical signs of pneumonia, such as increased respiratory rates and effort. Pneumonia may be due to a secondary bacterial infection.
Because this is a newly emerging disease, almost all dogs, regardless of breed or age, are susceptible to infection and have no immunity. Virtually all dogs that are exposed to the virus become infected and nearly 80% show clinical signs of disease. Fortunately, most affected dogs have the mild form.

Do dogs die from canine influenza?
Fatal cases of pneumonia resulting from infection with canine influenza virus have been reported in dogs, but the fatality rate (5% to 8%) has been low so far.

How widespread is the disease?
The first recognized outbreak of canine influenza in the world is believed to have occurred in racing greyhounds in January 2004 at a track in Florida. From June to August of 2004, outbreaks of respiratory disease were reported at 14 tracks in 6 states (Alabama, Arkansas, Florida, Kansas, Texas, and West Virginia). Between January and May of 2005, outbreaks occurred at 20 tracks in 11 states (Arizona, Arkansas, Colorado, Florida, Iowa, Kansas, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Texas, West Virginia, and Wisconsin). Infection has also been confirmed in pet dogs in California, Connecticut, Florida, Georgia, Massachusetts, North Carolina, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Washington State, and Washington, DC. These cases occurred in animal shelters, humane societies, rescue groups, pet stores, boarding kennels, and veterinary clinics.

How is a dog with canine influenza treated?
As with any disease caused by a virus, treatment is largely supportive. Good animal care practices and nutrition assist dogs in mounting an effective immune response. In the milder form of the disease, a thick green nasal discharge, which most likely represents a secondary bacterial infection, usually resolves quickly after treatment with a broad-spectrum bactericidal antimicrobial. In the more severe form of the disease, pneumonia is thought to often be caused by bacterial superinfection, and responds best to hydration (sometimes via intravenous administration of fluids) and a broad-spectrum bactericidal antimicrobial.

Is canine influenza virus transmissible from dogs to humans?
To date, there is no evidence of transmission of canine influenza virus from dogs to people.

Do I need to be concerned about putting my dog in day care or boarding it at a kennel?
Dog owners should be aware that any situation that brings dogs together increases the risk of spread of communicable illnesses. Good infection control practices can reduce that risk, so dog owners involved in shows, sports, or other activities with their dogs or who board their dogs at kennels should ask whether respiratory disease has been a problem there, and whether the facility has a plan for isolating dogs that develop respiratory disease and for notifying owners if their dogs have been exposed to dogs with respiratory disease.

As long as good infection control practices are in place, pet owners should not be overly concerned about putting dogs in training facilities, dog parks, kennels, or other areas frequented by dogs.

My dog has a cough...what should I do?
Schedule an appointment with your veterinarian so that he or she can examine and evaluate your dog and recommend an appropriate course of treatment. If canine influenza is suspected, treatment will usually focus on maximizing the ability of your dog's immune system to combat the virus. A typical approach might include administration of fluids if your dog is becoming dehydrated and prescribing an antimicrobial if a secondary bacterial infection is suspected.

Canine influenza virus can be spread via direct contact with respiratory secretions from infected dogs, and by contact with contaminated inanimate objects. Therefore, dog owners whose dogs are coughing or exhibiting other signs of respiratory disease should not participate in activities or bring their dogs to facilities where other dogs can be exposed to them. Clothing, equipment, surfaces, and hands should be cleaned and disinfected after exposure to dogs showing signs of respiratory disease to prevent transmission of infection to susceptible dogs. Clothing can be adequately cleaned by using a detergent at normal laundry temperatures.

I manage a kennel/veterinary clinic/animal shelter/dog day care center. How do I keep canine influenza out of my facility, and if it does enter my facility, what should I do?
Viral disease is usually best prevented through vaccination. Unfortunately, at this time no vaccine is available to protect dogs against canine influenza. Vaccination against other pathogens causing respiratory disease, however, may help prevent more common respiratory pathogens from becoming secondary infections in a respiratory tract already compromised by influenza infection. In addition, knowing that dogs are vaccinated against these pathogens may help facility managers distinguish canine influenza from other respiratory diseases. For these reasons, a veterinarian should determine which vaccinations are needed based on related risks and benefits and should administer these at least 2 weeks prior to planned visits to dog activity and care facilities (e.g., kennels, veterinary clinics, dog day care centers, training facilities, dog parks). Dogs admitted to shelters should be vaccinated on admission.

Routine infection control precautions are key to preventing spread of viral disease within facilities. The canine influenza virus appears to be easily killed by disinfectants (e.g., quaternary ammonium compounds and bleach solutions at a 1 to 30 dilution) in common use in veterinary clinics, boarding facilities, and animal shelters. Protocols should be established for thoroughly cleaning and disinfecting cages, bowls, and other surfaces between uses. Employees should wash their hands with soap and water (or use an alcohol-based hand cleaner if soap and water are unavailable) before and after handling each dog; after coming into contact with a dog's saliva, urine, feces, or blood; after cleaning cages; and upon arriving at and before leaving the facility (see "I work in a kennel/animal care facility. What should I do to prevent transmission of influenza virus from infected dogs to susceptible dogs?").

Animal care facility staff should be alerted to the possibility that a dog with a respiratory infection could be presented for care or boarding. If a dog with respiratory signs is presented, staff members should inquire whether the dog has recently been boarded or adopted from a shelter, has recently participated in dog-related group activities, or whether it has been exposed to other dogs known to have canine influenza or kennel cough. The dog should be brought directly into a separate examination/triage area that is reserved for dogs with respiratory signs and should not be allowed to enter the waiting room or other areas where susceptible dogs may be present.

Dogs with suspected canine influenza virus infection that is discovered after entry into the facility should be evaluated and treated by a veterinarian. Isolation protocols should be rigorously applied for dogs showing signs of respiratory disease, including the wearing of disposable gloves by persons handling infected dogs or cleaning contaminated cages. Respiratory disease beyond what is considered typical for a particular facility should be investigated, and the investigation should include submission of appropriate diagnostic samples (see "What diagnostic tests will tell me whether a dog has canine influenza?").

What diagnostic tests will tell me whether a dog has canine influenza? What samples do I send? Where do I send the samples? How do I distinguish between canine influenza and kennel cough?

There is no rapid test for diagnosis of acute canine influenza virus infection. Diagnosis may be confirmed through serologic testing. Antibodies to canine influenza virus may be detected as early as seven days after onset of clinical signs. Convalescent-phase samples should be collected at least two weeks after collection of the acute-phase sample. If an acute-phase sample is not available, testing a convalescent-phase sample can reveal whether a dog has been infected at some point in the past.

Other diagnostic options applicable to dogs that have died from pneumonia are viral culture and polymerase chain reaction (PCR) analysis, using fresh (not formalin-preserved or frozen) lung and tracheal tissues. Virus detection in respiratory secretion specimens from acutely ill animals using these methods is possible but generally unrewarding. The Cornell Animal Health Diagnostic Center is currently accepting samples for analysis. For detailed information on sample submission, visit www.diaglab.vet.cornell.edu/issues/civ.asp.

I work in a kennel/animal care facility. What should I do to prevent transmission of influenza virus from infected dogs to susceptible dogs?

Canine influenza is not known to be transmissible from dogs to people. However, caretakers can inadvertently transmit canine influenza virus from infected dogs to susceptible dogs by not following good hygiene and infection control practices. To prevent spread of canine influenza virus, caretakers should take the following precautions:

Wash hands with soap and water (if soap and water are unavailable, use an alcohol-based hand cleaner)

Before and after handling each animal

After coming into contact with animal saliva, urine, feces or blood

After cleaning cages

Before eating meals, taking breaks, smoking or leaving the facility

Before and after using the restroom

Wear a barrier gown over your clothes and wear gloves when handling sick animals or cleaning cages. Discard gown and gloves before working with other animals

Consider use of goggles or face protection if splashes from contaminated surfaces may occur

Bring a change of clothes to wear home at the end of the day

Thoroughly clean clothes worn at the animal facility

Do not allow animals to "kiss" you or lick your face

Do not eat in the animal care area

Separate newly arriving animals from animals that have been housed one week or longer.

Routinely monitor animals for signs of illness. Separate sick animals from healthy animals, especially animals with signs of respiratory disease.

There is no evidence of transmission of canine influenza virus from dogs to people. However, because of concerns about diseases that are transmissible from dogs to people, in general, it may be prudent for young children, the elderly, pregnant women, and immunocompromised persons to limit or avoid contact with animals that are ill.

Is canine influenza transmissible to from dogs to horses or other animal species?
At this time, there is no evidence of transmission of canine influenza from dogs to horses, cats, ferrets, or other animal species. However, the infection control measures outlined in the section titled "I work in a kennel/animal care facility. What should I do to prevent transmission of influenza virus from infected dogs to susceptible dogs?" are recommended to prevent spread of the virus.

For additional information and updates, please visit these websites:

American Veterinary Medical Association - www.avma.org
University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine - www.vetmed.ufl.edu/pr
Cornell University Veterinary Diagnostic Laboratory - http://www.diaglab.vet.cornell.edu/issues/civ.asp
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention - www.cdc.gov/healthypets
Association of Shelter Veterinarians - http://www.sheltervet.org/

http://www.avma.org/public_health/influenza/canine_guidelines.asp

Breed Specific Legislation...something to think about

2010-03-01T09:18:00.000-08:00

Breed specific legislation is exactly what sounds like...regulation of your right
to own or, in many cases, not own a dog based solely on the breed or "type"
of dog, not your responsibility as an owner.

To find and contact your lawmakers:
http://takeaction.lwv.org/lwv/dbq/officials/

Breed specific ordinances are quick fixes and not a sufficient long term solution for the following reasons:

1. Dog problems are generally problems with owner responsibility and are not limited to breeds. When breeds are singled out as dangerous or vicious, responsibility is removed from the dog owner which is where it belongs. Irresponsible people are also less likely to follow the law - and as a result, everyone has to suffer.

2. By limiting the ability of citizens to own certain breeds, responsible law abiding citizens will shy away from those breeds. These are the types of owners that communities need to encourage, not drive away.

3. Communities that have instituted such bans often find that the irresponsible owners and the criminals who use dogs for illegal purposes simply switch to another breed.

4. Breeds and mixes are hard to identify and often dogs are mis labeled and destroyed based on paranioa and prejudice and also punishes those that are good canine citizens. Many breeds function as assistance dogs for handicapped owners, search and rescue dogs, drug-sniffing dogs, police dogs, etc. and drives them out of the community.

The American Veterinary Medical Association and several state veterinary medical associations oppose breed-specific legislation for just this reason.

5. The dog most restricted is the "pit bull." A pit bull is a type of dog, not a recognized breed. See the breed information page for more detail.

6. Passage of laws that are only enforced through complaints cause two problems: 1) they create disrespect for the law if authorities require compliance only upon complaint, and 2) they provide ammunition for neighborhood feuds.

Suggested alternatives to breed bans include:

1. Stronger enforcement of existing dangerous dog laws. If they are not already in place, lobby for protection from untrained and unsupervised dogs of any breed or mix. This is a broad-based effort that protects all citizens as any dog can bite and be a nuisance when owned by an irresponsible owner. Those who would deliberately train a dog to act aggressively towards people or other animals, or to use dogs in the commission of a felony or misdemeanor should face additional penalties.

2. Encourage local animal rescue and welfare agencies to provide responsible dog ownership seminars and canine safety education. The American Kennel Club has a free education program created for elementary school children.

3. Protect the rights of all citizens with nuisance ordinances such as anti-barking, pooper scooper regulations and leash laws.

From Pit Bull Rescue Central

About Pit Bull Rescue Centralenvisions a compassionate world where pit bulls
and pit bull mixes reside in responsible, loving homes and where their honor
and positive image is restored and preserved.

Another thought on Ownership versus Guardianship

2010-02-28T09:09:00.000-08:00

Ownership versus Guardianship
(Approved by the Executive Board, June 2005)
Source: AVMA Task Force on Legal Status of Animals

Some animal owners may like to refer to themselves as "pet guardians," however "guardian" is a legal term that has significant legal implications and repercussions. Its use to describe the relationship between animals and their owners is inappropriate. Under well-developed principles of guardianship law, guardianship is a fiduciary relationship (the highest legal civil duty owed by one person to another). The ward's interests are always to prevail over those of the guardian. Some conflicts that arise from application of human guardianship law to animals are described in the text that follows. On the basis of these conflicts, the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) recommends that "guardian" not be adopted, even to semantically describe the relationship between humans and their animals.

The AVMA recognizes that American society has evolved from an agrarian one in which the animals most of us owned primarily had economic utility, to an urban one in which most of us derive some emotional value from our animals. Use of guardian, however, does not clarify the responsibilities of owners to their animals that are important for forming good human-animal bonds. Instead, use of guardian may create legal questions and consequences that have the potential to adversely affect both the animals and humans involved in these relationships. Such legal questions and consequences apply to animal owners, service providers, society and animals, and include, but are not limited to:

Animal Owners

Reductions in the rights of owners and imposition of additional legal obligations—With respect to veterinary care, animal owners will have less authority and fewer treatment options. Required treatment may exceed the financial capacity of the owner to pay, yet guardianship will require that owners accept such financial burdens. Financial inability to provide treatment could easily result in increased animal abandonment.

Entailment of wards—Use of guardian gives rise to its counterpart "ward." The ward is defined as the person for whose benefit the guardianship has been established. Wards have legal rights. Applying human guardianship law to animals would mean that animals have legal rights that can be recognized in court (i.e., animals would have legal standing). This may subject owners to civil lawsuits filed by third parties on behalf of the animal.

Inability to select procedures such as euthanasia or spay/neuter—Owners wishing to relieve animal suffering by euthanasia may no longer have that option. Non-health justifications for euthanasia, including population control, may no longer be acceptable under guardianship. Spaying and neutering may also not be possible, if such procedures were not deemed to be in the best interest of the animal.

Confidentiality of veterinary information and control of medical records—Where confidentiality of veterinary medical records is governed by state statutes or regulations, conditions are defined under which and to whom medical records may or must be released. Generally owners have authority over release of their animals' medical records. Under guardianship, a veterinarian, contrary to the owner's wishes, may be able to release information to third parties because he/she believes it is in the best interest of the animal. Conversely, the veterinarian may choose not to release medical records to the owner or others because he/she believes it is not in the animal's best interest to do so.

Ability to transfer an animal to another party—Background checks may be required to ensure that transfer of an animal from one guardian to another is in the best interest of the animal. Transfer of guardianship from one guardian to another, for profit, may not be legal. Third parties may have the opportunity to impede transfer proceedings if they deem such action to be in the best interest of the animal.

Coverage of animal-related claims by homeowners' insurance—Homeowners' property loss insurance may no longer cover animal-related claims should animals be no longer defined as property under the law. Under guardianship, animals would no longer be considered property.

Required registration as guardian—In states having guardian registries, animal guardians may be required to register and to comply with all laws and regulations pertaining to that registration. Requirements for registration could include background checks, bonding, and conflict-of-interest evaluations. Registration processes are time-consuming and potentially costly.

Annual guardianship reports—Animal guardians may be required to file annual guardianship reports, including associated financial reports.
Service Providers

Loss of protection under animal abandonment laws—Animal abandonment laws are predicated on the basis that animals are property. Guardianship removes the status of animals as property.

Veterinarians' responsibilities unclear—The veterinarian's responsibilities become unclear when a guardian's direction is contrary to the best interests of the animal. Veterinarians may be required to go to court to obtain a judicial determination as to whether or not theirs or the guardian's direction is the appropriate course of action. Inability to provide timely treatment to an ill or injured animal during the course of court proceedings creates the potential for unnecessary animal suffering. For example, debate as to whether to treat a compound fracture versus selecting euthanasia for the animal could create the potential for continued pain, infection and other complications while awaiting a judicial decision. Cases involving animal issues are likely to have lower priority than those involving human issues.

Prohibitions on prescribing and dispensing controlled substances—Veterinarians may not be able to lawfully prescribe or dispense controlled substances or legend drugs to a guardian who no longer has legal status as the owner of an animal (i.e., current law assumes animals are owned and that owners receive drugs and administer them, as prescribed, to the animal).

Payment for services—Guardianship may create questions as to whom (guardian) or what (guardianship) is responsible for payment of associated animal services. Personal payment guarantees may need to be obtained.

Interstate transport—Service providers may have an obligation to prevent the physical transfer of an animal from a guardianship state to an ownership state.
Society

Unconstitutional taking of private property—A complete shift to guardianship could result in claims of a state having unconstitutionally taken private property (animals) without just compensation.

Impacts on existing statutes and regulations—Numerous statutes, regulations and policies would have to be reviewed and language altered to replace owner with guardian. These include, but not limited to, pharmacy laws, controlled substance laws, tax laws, veterinary practice laws, and other laws, regulations and policies related to animal use and services.

Impacts on ability to responsibly use animals—Guardianship may preclude the responsible use of animals for agricultural production (food and fiber), research, exhibition and entertainment (e.g., racing, circuses, rodeo), and companionship. Use of animals and animal products for such purposes may no longer be legal.

Ability to control, quarantine and vaccinate animals—Guardianship may affect the ability of governmental agencies to control and quarantine animals and require vaccination. Ensuring animal and public health requires the ability to effectively control and eradicate disease. Quarantine, vaccination, and sometimes depopulation, are necessary components of effective disease control and eradication.

Conflicts between federal and state statutes, regulations and policies—Potential conflicts may arise between states' laws, regulations and policies that are predicated on the basis of guardianship and federal laws, regulations and policies that are predicated on the basis of animals as property.

Homeless/unwanted animals—Financial burdens and inability to control burgeoning populations (e.g., problems associated with euthanasia and spay/neuter choices) may both contribute to the problem of unwanted animals.

Use of assistance animals—The concept of assistance animals (e.g., guide dogs, hearing dogs) may be objectionable under guardianship; therefore, there may be fewer animals available to provide such services. The use of animals for search and rescue may also not be acceptable.

Burdens of ownership—Owning or keeping animals may become burdensome with consequent negative impacts on animal-related industries, including loss of jobs.
Animals

Bidirectional benefits of human-animal bonds lost—Under guardianship, people may be less willing to possess animals because of concerns about increased liability. Some responsible individuals and animals would thereby be deprived of the benefits of the human-animal bond.

Reduction in animals' receipt of needed services—Guardianship may reduce a person's willingness to seek appropriate services for animals in a timely fashion.

Animals left in limbo—Guardianship may leave the welfare of animals in limbo during associated legal proceedings. A delay in the veterinarian's ability to provide medical care is one example.

Adverse effects on health and welfare—Guardianship may adversely affect the health and welfare of individual animals and animal populations.

Source: AVMA Task Force on Legal Status of Animals
Contact: Dr. Gail Golab, Asst. Dir., Prof. and Public Affairs, AVMA, 847-285-6618

Winter Storm Feb 27 Closed

2010-02-27T05:41:00.000-08:00

Good Morning!

With ice and 4-8 Inches of new snow plus a prediction of more...SNOW. We are closed today. Stay warm! Stay safe! I am planning on opening tomorrow at 9 am for classes and social.

With spring coming...baby animals...what if...care for orphaned baby animals!

2010-02-26T12:09:00.000-08:00

So you have an orphaned puppy, kitten, or a wild creature...NOW WHAT!!!

How and When to Rescue Wildlife (from www.orphaned-wildlife-rescue-center.com)

Some of the questions most commonly asked about wildlife are addressed by the following paragraphs. Please keep in mind that if any animal, baby or adult, needs rescuing, the sooner you get it to an experienced and licenced wildlife rehabilitator, the better the chances are for the animal's survival.

Most baby animals are not abandoned even though you may not see the parents. Parent animals leave the nest to forage for food for the babies, and feed themselves, and can remain hidden in relatively little cover. Watch from a well-hidden place to see if the parents return. Please do not disturb the nest. Birds, for instance, will return to the nest to feed babies every 15 minutes to half hour if they do not feel threatened. Rabbits, on the other hand, only return to the nest twice a day. If you are not sure about a rabbit nest, sprinkle flour around the perimeter of the nest and leave it alone. The mother rabbit will leave tracks in the flour. Do not disturb her nest. If the mother rabbit does not return to her nest within 10-12 hours, or if a mother bird does not return to her nest within 4-8 hours, please contact a wildlife rehabilitator or the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) in your area for a referral.

We were all taught as youngsters that a parent animal will not care for a baby after humans have touched the baby. This is not true. Approaching a wild animal's nest or offspring can cause a parent animal to leave the area. However, if you return the baby to the nest and leave the area, parents will return to care for the baby. The longer you remain in the area, the more likely you are to disrupt the normal behavior of the parents. If you are sure the baby animal is abandoned or lost, contact a wildlife rehabilitator in your area.

If you know that a baby animal is orphaned because you have seen the parents injured or killed, and the baby animal's body feels cool to the touch, or the baby is crying loudly, you must act quickly AND CAREFULLY. Wild animals, even babies, can injure you. If you are willing to help, please place the animal in a box lined with paper towels with a source of heat, such as a hot water bottle or a heating pad. The source of heat should be warm to the touch but not hot. Please do not allow your children to play with or hold the animal. As much as your children would enjoy this experience, it is terribly frightening to a baby animal. Place the animal in a dark, warm and quiet place, and immediately call a wildlife rehabilitator or the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) in your area for a referral. The sooner you get the animal to an experienced rehabilitator, the better the chances are for the animal's survival.

Ducklings found alone should not be left alone. Mallard hens do not return to the nest once ducklings are hatched. Chances are they hatched after the hen and other hatchlings left or they fell behind. Do not try to introduce them to other hens and ducklings as the hen will undoubtedly defend her own clutch and may possibly try to kill other ducklings. Please keep the duckling(s) in a warm and dark box lined with paper towels, and please do not give them water to swim in. They can chill and drown in a very small amount of water. Please do not allow your children to play with or hold the duckling(s). Call a wildlife rehabilitator or the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) in your area for a referral. The sooner you get the duckling(s) to an experienced wildlife rehabilitator, the better the chances are for the duckling's survival.

Baby mammals and birds do not eat cow's milk, eggs, or bread. Please do not feed any of these to any baby animal, bird or mammal. In fact, injured or chilled animals should not be fed at all. Again, keep it warm, quiet and isolated. Please do not allow children to handle the animal. Call a wildlife rehabilitator or the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) in your area for a referral.

If you find an adult bird or mammal that is injured, please keep in mind that stress from capture and handling will jeopardize its chances of recovery. Place it in a cardboard box or kennel carrier lined with a towel or paper towels, cover the box with a towel to block light (it will still be able to breathe), and place it in a dark, warm, quiet, and protected place. Please do not try to comfort the animal by talking to it or holding it. It is very likely in pain and is most certainly terrified by contact with a human. Contact a wildlife rehabilitator immediately. Again, the sooner you get the animal to an experienced wildlife rehabilitator, the better the chances are for the animal's survival. We cannot stress this enough.

If you find an injured raccoon, skunk or fox, PLEASE do not attempt to handle the animal. It is possible that the animal could carry rabies. Please locate a Rabies-Vector-Species-permitted rehabilitator and immediately contact them.

So you have an orphaned puppy, kitten, or other animal. Below are some helpful options for you in this emergency.

KITTENS:

Orphaned Kittens

Raising an orphaned kitten is a noble and rewarding experience. The bonding that will occur in the first few days will likely last for many years. Orphaned kittens are very fragile; raising them requires jumping numerous hurdles. Do not be disappointed if you are not successful.

What problems am I likely to encounter?

Several critical problems must be addressed in caring for orphaned kittens. Among these are chilling, dehydration, and hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). These problems are interrelated and may often exist at the same time. Close observation and prompt attention if any of these problems develop are essential to survival. Of course, proper feeding of the orphaned kitten is extremely important.

Chilling

Chilling in newborn kittens can lead to significant mortality. A kitten will dissipate far more body heat per pound of body weight than an adult cat. The normal newborn kitten depends upon radiant heat from his mother to help maintain his body temperature. In the absence of the mother, various methods of providing heat, such as incubators, heat lamps, or hot water bottles can be used.

Rectal temperatures in a normal newborn kitten range from 95 to 99o F (35 to 37.2oC) for the first week, 97 to 100oF (36.1 to 37.7o C) for the second and third weeks, and reach the normal temperature of an adult (100 to 102o F; 37.7 to 38.9o C) by the fourth week.

When the rectal temperature drops below 94o F (34.4o C), the accompanying metabolic alterations are life-threatening. Immediate action is necessary to provide the warmth the kitten needs to survive. A healthy newborn can usually survive chilling if warmed slowly.

During the first four days of his life, the orphaned kitten should be maintained in an environmental temperature of 85 to 90o F (29.4 to 32.2o C). The temperature may gradually be decreased to 80o F (26.7o C) by the seventh to tenth day and to 72o F (22.2o C) by the end of the fourth week. If the litter is large, the temperature need not be as high. As kittens huddle together, their body heat provides additional warmth.

Caution: Too rapid warming of a chilled kitten may result in death.

Dehydration

The lack of regular liquid intake or the exposure of the kitten to a low humidity environment can easily result in dehydration. The inefficiency of the digestion and metabolism of a chilled kitten may also lead to dehydration and other changes.

Experienced individuals can detect dehydration by the sense of touch. Two signs of dehydration are the loss of elasticity in the skin and dry and sticky mucous membranes (gums) in the mouth.

An environmental relative humidity of 55 to 65 percent is adequate to prevent drying of the skin in a normal newborn kitten. A relative humidity of 85 to 90 percent is more effective in maintaining kittens if they are small and weak.

Caution: The environmental temperature should not exceed 90o F (32.2o C) when high humidity is provided. A temperature of 95o F (35o C) coupled with relative humidity of 95 percent can lead to respiratory distress.

Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar levels)

Signs of hypoglycemia (abnormal decrease of sugar in the blood) are severe depression, muscle twitching and sometimes convulsions. If a kitten shows signs of hypoglycemia, a solution containing glucose will have to be administered. A few drops of corn syrup on the tongue can be life-saving.

What do I feed my orphaned kitten?

Total nutrition for the newborn orphans must be supplied by a milk replacer until the kittens are about three weeks of age. At this age, the kittens are ready to start nibbling moistened solid food.

Preferred diets:

A commercial kitten milk replacer which can be purchased at pet supplies stores, or for short-term emergencies, you can make up a diet:

l cup of milk
l tablespoon corn oil
l pinch of salt
egg yolks (no whites)

Blend mixture uniformly.
Is the temperature of the food important?

Since the newborn may have trouble generating enough heat to maintain his body temperature, the milk replacer should be warmed to 95 to 100o F (35 to 37.8o C) for the best results. Testing the milk replacer's temperature on one's forearm (as for babies) is generally accurate enough. The milk replacer should be about the same temperature as one's skin or slightly warmer. As the kittens grow older, the milk replacer can be fed at room temperature.

How do I feed my kitten?

Spoon feeding is slow and requires great patience. Each spoonful must be slowly "poured" into the kitten's mouth to prevent liquids from entering the lungs. The kitten's head must not be elevated, or the lungs may fill with fluids. Newborn kittens usually do not have a well-developed gag reflex to signal this.

Dropper feeding accomplishes the same result as spoon feeding but is somewhat cleaner and generally speedier.

Baby bottles made for kittens can be used quite successfully in most situations. The size of the hole in the nipple is critical for success. If the bottle is turned upside down and milk replacer drips from the nipple, the hole is too large. Use of this nipple may cause drowning of the kitten. If the bottle is turned upside down and milk replacer comes out only after considerable squeezing of the bottle, the hole is too small. Use of this nipple will result in the kitten becoming discouraged and refusing to nurse. The hole is the proper size if the bottle is turned upside down and milk replacer drips from the nipple with minimal squeezing of the bottle.

Tube feeding is the easiest, cleanest and most efficient method of hand feeding. However, it requires proper equipment and technique to prevent putting milk replacer into the kitten's lungs. If bottle feeding is not successful, your vet will supply the equipment and demonstrate the proper technique. This is not a difficult procedure, so do not hesitate to ask about it if it is needed.

When and how much do I feed?

Commercial milk replacers have directions on their labels for proper amounts to feed. It is necessary for the kitten's weight to be obtained properly in ounces or grams. The amounts on the labels are based on the kitten getting only the milk replacer. The amounts given are also for a 24 hour period. That quantity should be divided by the number of feedings per 24 hours. Four meals, equally spaced during a 24 hour period, are ample for feeding a kitten when adequate nutrients are provided. Six or more feedings may be necessary if the kitten is small or weak. Hand feeding can generally be ended by the third week and certainly by the fourth. By this time the kitten can consume food, free-choice, from a dish (see below).

How do I get the kitten to urinate and defecate?

The kitten's genital area must be stimulated after feeding to cause urination and defecation. The genital area should be massaged with a moist cloth or cotton ball to stimulate action. This cleaning should continue during the first two weeks. If this procedure is not followed, the kitten may become constipated.

When does the kitten start to eat from a bowl?

By three weeks, the kitten can start to eat food from the dish along with the milk replacer. A gruel can be made by thoroughly mixing a kitten food (canned or dry) with the milk replacer to reach the consistency of a thick milk shake. The mixture should not be too thick at first or the kitten will not consume very much. As the consumption of food increases, the amount of milk replacer can be gradually decreased. By four to four and one-half weeks, the orphaned kitten can consume enough moistened solid food to meet his needs. It is better to avoid starting a kitten on a baby food regimen. This creates extra work and can also create a finicky eater. Many such foods will not meet the nutritional needs of a growing kitten.

Should my kitten be treated for worms?

Vets routinely treat kittens for worms at 3 and 6 weeks of age. He will need to see the kitten at the appropriate ages so that hecan be accurately weighed.

When is the first vaccination given?

The first vaccination is normally given to kittens at 6-8 weeks of age. If your kitten did not nurse from his mother during the first 2-3 days after birth, there will be no protective immunity passed to him. If that is the case, the first vaccination should be given at about 2-3 weeks of age.

PUPPIES:

Most female dogs are excellent mothers. But occasionally, when the momma dog is very young or is one of the temperamental toy breeds, it may neglect its offspring. Some older dogs suffer milk failure and have no milk to give their puppies. Other mothers produce contaminated milk or vaginal exudates that are toxic to the puppies. At other times, a litters contains a star-crossed runt that will not survive unless we hand raise it ourselves. Any pup that weighs twenty or more percent less than its littermates is best raised by hand.

Supplies You Will Need:
You will need to have a nest box for the baby or babies. Since the infants often soil their container, I usually find a small cardboard box that I can readily replace to keep the baby in.

You will need a heating pad. I usually pick up a heavy-duty model at WalMart. Then I go to their aquarium section and purchase an aquarium thermometer. In the same section you will find pet nursing bottles and Hartz Advanced Care Puppy Milk Replacement powder. You can also purchase Esbilac powdered puppy milk by Pet Ag (Borden’s) at veterinary offices and pet stores. A small food scale is also nice to have to weigh the infant(s). If the pup is weak you may want to tube feed it. If so, pick up a 3-milliliter syringe and an 18Guage butterfly infusion set from a veterinary hospital or human medical supply center.

Delivering The Puppy:
When puppies are born they are wrapped in a clear sac called the amniotic membrane. This membrane must be removed from the puppy’s face in order for it to breathe. I tear this membrane with my fingers and slide the whole pup out. Then I snip off the umbilical cord which connects the puppy’s belly button to the afterbirth with a scissors. I leave about a half inch of cord attached to the puppy and tie it off with a piece of thread so it will not bleed. Then I use a rubber bulb to clean mucus away from the puppy’s mouth, throat and nose.

Nest Box:
The nest box does not need to be elaborate. It needs to be just big enough for the puppy to turn around but not much bigger. Be sure the sides are tall enough so that the puppy can not fall out. Line the box with crumpled Kleenex tissue, diapers or paper towels. To maintain temperature, keep a heating pad set at its lowest setting under one side of the box. Wrap the pad with sufficient bath towels so that the inside of the box stays at 97 degrees Fahrenheit but no higher. With only one side of the box heated the puppy will be able to crawl away from the heat source if it gets too warm. Place the box in a draft free location. As the baby matures the temperature in the box can be gradually lowered.

Warmth:
Newborn puppies can not generate enough heat to keep their bodies warm and have not yet developed a shivering reflex. They will rely on you to regulate temperature during the first 14 days of their life. Normal rectal temperature for a newborn puppy is 94-98F. By their second week of life, rectal temperature should be 97-100F. By the fourth week normal rectal temperature is 100-102F. The first thing to do with chilled puppies is to warm them up very slowly to ninety-five degrees. Orphan pups need an environmental temperature of about 97°F (36°C) the first week, in the mid 80's the second week, and then in the 70's. When the mother is there to keep the pups warm, additional temperature is unnecessary.. When the pup reaches the end of its first month of life it can tolerate room air temperature of 70-75F.

Be very cautious using the heating pad since the puppy can be easily hurt by too high a temperature while it is still too young to move away from the heat source.

The First Milk Or Colostrum:
Colostrum is the first milk that the mother produces after giving birth. It is very thick, yellowish-cream in color, and rich in antibodies that protect the puppy against disease. Puppies that do not ingest colostrum during their first twelve hours of life can not fight diseases they encounter as well as pups that do. Giving the puppy oral doses of blood plasma from a healthy dog is one way to compensate for the lack of colostrum. When this is not done (and it is usually not done) one needs to be especially sanitary when handling and feeding the puppy.

What To Feed:
I prefer to feed puppies a powdered infant formula that I prepares just before use. Two excellent ones that are available are Esbilac marketed by Pet Ag, which is available at veterinary offices and pet stores and Hartz Advanced Care Puppy Milk Replacement powder available at WalMart Stores. Mix both according to the directions on the label (two parts boiled water to one part powder). Store the opened canister in the freezer. Allow some time after mixing a batch for bubbles to leave the formula. Keep reconstituted formula in the refrigerator between uses and discard any remaining formula at the end of the day.

If for some reason you can not obtain puppy milk replacement you can mix a formula. It consists of one-half cup evaporated whole milk, one half cup boiled water, one teaspoon full of corn oil, one drop of pediatric multivitamin (Visorbin or equivalent), two raw egg yolks and a tablespoon full of plain whole yogurt. For some reason, formulas based on evaporated milk cause less diarrhea and indigestion than those based on fresh cow’s milk. Adding a quarter of a lactase tablet to each batch of formula helps the puppy digest the large amount of lactose present in cow’s milk.

Bottle Feeding:
I mix my milk formula just before I use it. A good puppy-nursing bottle holds 2-4 ounces of formula. They are generally sold without holes punched in the nipple. I use a flame-heated needle to melt two small holes in the latex cap. The holes should only be big enough for a few drops of milk drip out when the bottle is vigorously shaken. If too many holes are punched in the cap the puppies tend to inhale the formula rather than ingest it. If too few or too small a hole is made the puppy will ingest too much air. Mix the formula well so there are no clumps. Let it cool until it is slightly above room temperature. Always feed pups while they are resting on their stomachs. Never feed them upright or upside down as you would a human infant. Gently insert the nipple into the pup’s mouth using a prying motion while you apply pressure to the sides of the bottle to release a drop or two of milk. From then on the pup should suck on its own.

We all have a tendency to over feed puppies. It is much safer to give them a little less than they desire. Over-feeding can lead to pneumonia when milk is inhaled into the lungs rather then swallowed into the stomach. It can also cause diarrhea. It is much safer to feed smaller amounts more frequently than larger amounts less frequently. If milk bubbles out of the pup’s nose it is flowing too rapidly from the bottle. This is usually due to too large a hole(s) in the nipple or over feeding. I microwave a bowl of water and set the bottle in it to heat the formula to 99-100 degrees Fahrenheit before use.

Some owners find it easier to feed very small newborn pups from a one or three milliliter syringe and switch to a bottle when the pup is two weeks old.

Boil nursing bottles and syringes between every use.

How Much To Feed:
The two powdered formulas I suggested contain about one calorie per milliliter when reconstituted at one part formula to two parts water. With either of these products, each day the average puppy needs 25-35 milliliters of formula for every 100 grams (about 3.5 ounces) of body weight. Divide this number by the number of feedings per day to obtain the amount for each feeding. During week two, give 15-20 ml for every 100 grams body weight. During weeks three and four give 20 ml for every 100 grams body weight. These amounts are always only a rough estimate. Feed the puppy until its belly is gently rounded or pear-shaped.

How Often To Feed:
Feed very young puppies every three or four hours or six to eight feeding a day. Some people get up to give their puppy a midnight feeding but this is not necessary. By the time the puppy is three weeks old, four feedings per day are quite sufficient. At five weeks of age the puppy should be eating some solid foods. At this age feed it two to three times a day if at all. Puppies that are hungry and need feeding will cry continuously, move their heads from side to side and suckle on each other and on objects in the nest box.

Burping The Puppy:
After each feeding hold the puppy upright with its tummy against your shoulder and pat it gently until it burps releasing trapped air. Nursing bottles that do not release enough milk lead to more air being trapped. If the puppy should bloat or become colicky add a few drops of infant anticolic medicine (simethicone, Equate Infants’ Gas Relief, WalMart Stores Inc.) to the formula.

Helping Your Puppy Eliminate:
Normal puppy stools are yellowish brown with a jam-like consistency. After every feeding, gently massage the anus and urinary orifice with a cotton ball or Kleenex moistened with warm water until they urinate and defecate. Be very gentle when you do this and don’t worry if no urine or stool is produced after every feeding. By the time the pup is three weeks old it should be able to go without your help.

Problems That Can Arise:
If diarrhea occurs add more water to the formula to make up for the fluid that is lost. If this does not rapidly cure the problem the pup may need to be placed on antibiotics and receive subcutaneous fluids. Watery yellowish or greenish stools are sometimes associated with feeding too much. If they occur, try diluting the formula 50-50 with Pedialyte until the stools return to normal consistency. You can also give the pup 2-3 drops of kaopectate just prior to each feeding.

Newborn puppies quickly become dehydrated if they are not nursing. They can also become dehydrated if their environment is too hot and dry. Two indicators of dehydration are loss of elasticity of the skin (the skin stays tented when gently pinched up) and decreased saliva production (the gums and tongue feel tacky or dry).

Hypoglycemia or low blood sugar can develop rapidly in a puppy that is not nursing. These puppies are limp, depressed and weak. Their gums are often bluish and their muscles may twitch. Dextrose solution or corn syrup placed on their tongue is sometimes helpful but it is better if these pups are left in an intensive care setting at a veterinary center where dextrose can be administered intravenously or intralingually (in the tongue).

Because newborn puppies can not regulate their temperature well they are quite susceptible to chilling. If this should occur the best way to warm them is to place them on a hot water bottle and gently blow them with a hair drier.

Stools that are clumped and cheese-like can be due to feeding the formula too concentrated. When puppies strain to defecate and pass overly hard stools, increase the frequency of feeding and dilute the formula. Impacted pups also have bloated abdomens. You can give them a few drops of mineral oil or cat hairball ointment to help them evacuate the stool. If they still remain bound up they may need a warm water enema. This is best done at a veterinary hospital.

It is prudent to worm your puppies with pyrantel pamoate when they are six weeks of age. You can purchase this worming medicine at all WalMart Stores.

If the puppies are kept isolated from other dogs their first vaccinations can be given at 12 weeks of age. If other unvaccinated dogs come in contact with the pup, the first vaccine should be administered at 6-8 weeks. The vaccine should immunize against canine distemper, canine hepatitis (adeno-2 virus) and parvovirus. Some include leptospirosis. At 12 weeks it should receive a rabies vaccination and at 12 and 18 weeks the pup should receive a booster of its first vaccination.

Tube Feeding:

I discourage tube feeding of puppies that will nurse a bottle because puppies need the companionship they get when we slowly feed them from a bottle. But puppies that are too weak to nurse need to be tube fed. It is difficult to explain this process in writing. The best way to learn how to tube feed is to have someone experienced in the technique do it with you the first time. To tube feed, I fill a three or six-milliliter syringe with heated formula being careful that no air bubbles are present. Then I attach an eighteen-gauge infusion (butterfly) set to the syringe. I snip off the needle and fill the remaining tubing with milk. Then I lay the tube along side the puppy and make a mark with an indelible pen on the tube when the tip is alongside the puppy’s last rib. Then I gently open the puppy’s mouth and begin to thread the tubing over the puppy’s tongue very slowly. This gives the pup time to swallow the tubing rather than have it go into the windpipe. If you are accidentally in the windpipe the pup will squirm and fuss. When I think the tube is correctly placed, with my thumb and index finger I carefully palpate the puppy’s neck to feel two tube-like structures. One, in the center of the neck, will be the windpipe (trachea). The other will be the catheter tube. If I only feel one structure I remove the tube and reinsert it again until I am certain I am in the esophagus and not in the trachea. Then I slowly inject the contents of the syringe. When tube feeding feed no more than 75% of what the puppy would have taken orally so it does not regurgitate the formula.

Bathing Puppies:
During their first week of life it is best to just clean puppies with a damp pledget of cotton. When the puppy is one week old its body can be submersed in warm water. When the bath is finished carefully blow dry the puppy. Be careful to keep the dryer far away from the puppy so as not to overheat it.

Weaning – You Are Almost There!

Between 3 and 4 weeks, puppies should begin accepting fine textured solid foods. By four and a half to five and a half weeks the puppy should be weaned. Purchase some cans of gourmet cat or dog food in chicken and beef flavors and smear a bit on the roof of the puppy’s mouth. It will soon get the idea. Do not feed it fish flavored foods or it will become a fussy eater. This is the same time you should begin to offer formula in a bowel. The earlier puppies eat on their own the better. I do not suggest baby foods because they are too low in calcium and vitamins. Although many puppies will eat as early as four weeks, some take an additional two or three weeks before they express interest in solid food. As soon as puppy chow is offered, keep a dish of water available. By the time the pup is 10 weeks old it should be receiving puppy chow dry.

TEMPORARY MILK SUBSTITUTE
When the entire litter is deprived of the mother's milk, if the mother
dies or her milk does not come in (agalactia), is not sufficient
(hypogalactia) or is toxic (mastitis), use of a milk substitute
adapted for dogs usually ensures the survival of the puppies, although
there may be a slight slowdown (less than ten percent) in growth
compared to the average of the breed, which is often regained later by
spontaneous consumption of a weaning formula.

On their own, puppies will nurse more than twenty times per day. It
would be difficult for the owner to keep up with such a feeding
schedule! A schedule of feeding once every three hours for the first
week should be adequate, as long as the feedings are regular and the
sleep schedule is respected (puppies sleep more than ninety percent of
the time during the first week) so the puppies get the rest so
essential to bonding and imprinting.

While it is possible to adapt cow's milk for puppies, powdered puppy
formulas are much better, especially since their lactose content is
limited.

In addition to saving time and money, powdered puppy formulas are
packaged dry. This limits the risk of diarrhea in the puppies, whose
stomach acid is not yet strong enough to completely sterilize the
digesting food.

After adding water and heating the formula to 37°C, the owner can feed
the puppy either by means of a bottle, or by gavage, using a probe
(urinary probe), if the puppy refuses to nurse. If the milk is given
by mouth using a syringe, it should have the consistency of rather
thick baby cereal to trigger the swallowing reflex and limit the risk
of food "going down the wrong way." If food enters the respiratory
tract, bronchial pneumonia may result.

The following are a few points that will help decide how much milk to
feed the puppies:

One kilogram of bitch milk contains about 1350 kilocalories.
A puppy needs three to four millilitres of milk per gram of weight gain.
The caloric requirements of nursing puppies are more than two-and-a-
half times greater than the maintenance requirements of an adult dog
of the same weight.

For example, if a one-month-old puppy weighs three kilograms (adult
weight twenty-two kilograms), its daily average weight gain is about
six grams per kilogram of estimated adult weight, or 130 grams per day.
To gain this much weight, the puppy must eat 4 x 130 = 520 grams of
milk per day, which is equal to 0.52 x 1350 = 600 kilocalories.

A household recipe that can be used temporarily as a substitute for
bitch milk.
270g Unsweetened Evaporated Milk
70g Fresh Cream
450g Nine eggs without shell
56g One egg with shell
154g Mineral Water
TOTAL 1000g
From the ANIWA Encyclopaedia

RECIPE TO HELP THE BITCHES MILK COME DOWN
1 cup of milk
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon Flax seed oil
2 raw egg yolks
1-2 junket tablets
Put it in a bottle, shake it vigorously, then stand it in hot water,
it goes into a custard type consistency. You can also add liquid
vitamins (B & C), but if that puts her off drinking it, then don't
give it in the food.
TIPS
As an orphan Toy breed pup gets a little older, I start using (human)
baby bottles (Nuk or Avent brands) and teats for newborn's (Pigeon
cross-cut size for 3 months has been recommended also)

RECIPES FOR SUBSTITUTING ORPHAN PUPS

RECIPE 1
1 x 8 oz. carton of vanilla yoghurt
1 x can of evaporated milk (not low fat)
6 oz boiled cooled water
2 x egg yolks (someone once told me to add a tablespoon of mayonnaise)
This keeps well in the refrigerator and the pups thrive on it. Put a
drop of Pet Nutri Drops in before the feeding or on their tongues
before the feeding.
From the Walkowitcz-Wilcox book Successful Dog Breeding and Canine
Midwifery.

RECIPE 2
10 oz. evaporated milk (whole fat or part skim -- do not use all skim)
or goat's milk
3 oz. sterilized water (baby water or boiled water) -- delete if using
goat's milk
1 egg yolk (raw)
2 Tablespoons regular mayonnaise (optional)
1 cup whole fat yoghurt (whole fat or part skim -- avoid all skim)
Place all ingredients in a blender and mix (or use a wire whisk) till
well blended. Use all formula within 7 days.

Warm formula to puppy body temperature before feeding (dogs are 101
degrees). Always discard formula leftover at a feeding. This formula
is thick and so is best administered by stomach tube. If using a
bottle, you may need to enlarge the hole slightly. It provides 11
calories per cc.

RECIPE 3
1 cup Carnation Evaporated Milk
1 cup boiled, cooled water
1 raw egg yolk
2 tablespoons Natural Yoghurt
1 teaspoon honey

RECIPE 4
1 cup milk Goat's milk or evaporated milk
1 teaspoon salad oil
1 drop baby vitamins
2 egg yolks

RECIPE 5
1 cup of canned Condensed milk or Evaporated milk
4 oz plain, full-fat yoghurt
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon of baby vitamins
1 envelope of Knox unflavoured gelatine in addition to other
ingredients will help keep stools solid.
RECIPE 6
13 oz. can of evaporated milk
Equal amount of water
4 oz. of plain yoghurt
4 egg yolks
1 tablespoon of liquid vitamins.
The water element is very important in any formula. The newborn puppy
has a tremendous need for water, since he himself is almost 85% water.
RECIPE 7
50/50 Evaporated Milk and WARM (pre-boiled) water
1 beaten egg yoke
1 Teaspoon of Sandoz Calcium
1 Teaspoon of Glucose Powder
3 drops of Pentavite Vitamin Drops
Strain with a tea strainer.
RECIPE 8
This is used as a supplement if you have to hand-raise, given to the
bitch during whelping process, used to wean puppies. It is suppose to
be as close to bitch milk as possible and produce superior puppies.
MIX IN BLENDER:
1 Tablespoon Honey
1 Tablespoon Whipping Cream
2 Egg Yolks
1 Can PET (brand) Evaporated Milk
DISSOLVE ON STOVE:
2 Packages Knox (brand) unflavoured gelatin
1 Can water
Combine all above together. Add one more can of water. Blend well.
Refrigerate. The stuff turns to a "pudding" state, but melts when
warmed.
RECIPE 9
1 tin of Carnation Evaporated Milk
Equal amount of water
1 whole egg
1 heaped teaspoon of honey
Mix all together and strain, then heat in microwave to desired
temperature.
RECIPE 10
Diet can fully support life or be supplemental
1 x regular size can of Evaporated Milk (cows)
1 x equal size can of Water
1 x 8 ounce container regular Plain Yogurt ( 6 oz container also OK)
1 x strained jar baby food meat, first choice is Veal, second is
Chicken, third is Lamb. Must have NO Additives (other ingredients and/
or spices) and can only be prepared with Meat Broth as the fluid (in
the USA I recommend a brand called Beechnut)
½ teaspoon honey - can be reduced or omitted if stools too loose.
Blend all Ingredients. Can be refrigerated several days (3). Can be
gently heated in microwave. Will flow through baby bottle nipples (I
use Preemie crosscut nipples as they are the softest, most flexible)

RECIPE 11
PUPPY MILK REPLACER.

Ingredients:
1 (one) cup whole (full cream) milk
1 (one) teaspoon of corn (or other vegetable) oil
1 (one) egg yolk (NO white)
1 (one) pinch of salt
1 (one) drop of infant multivitamin supplement.
Blend the mixture.
Warm to body temperature before feeding (in warm water ie. DO NOT HEAT
DIRECTLY)
Refrigerate unused portion.
Discard any unused mixture after 24 hours.

EMERGENCY PUPPY MILK REPLACER
1 cup whole milk (cow or goat)
1 pinch table grade salt
3 egg yolks - no whites
1 tablespoon corn oil
¼ teaspoon liquid vitamins
Blend and serve at 95° - 100° or skin temperature
WEAK PUPPY BOOSTER
This formula is meant to be used on newborns who are chilled, weak or
otherwise compromised. This formula should be administered every 1-2
hours (or more often) by stomach tube and the puppy should be warmed
slowly. Once the puppy begins to maintain a normal body temperature,
regular feeding can resume. NEVER FEED A CHILLED PUPPY MILK REPLACER.
8oz. lactated ringers solution or sterilized water
1 tablespoon white Karo syrup or white sugar (do not use honey)
OR
Substitute plain, unflavoured Pedialyte
Mix ingredients and warm to body temperature. Preferred administration
is stomach tube (to ensure correct dosage). Feed ½ cc per 2 oz. of
body weight once per hour. If puppy is very weak, you may half the
dosage and feed twice as often. This formula should be followed up
with milk replacer as soon as the puppy is maintaining normal body
temperature. This formula should not be fed exclusively for more than
8 hours.
Written by Cathy Ochs-Cline. Links to other articles by Cathy on
Whelping
ANAEMIC NURSING MOTHERS AND WHEN DOGS WON'T EAT
Pudding Recipe

Mix
large 4 cup size vanilla pudding
½ cup sugar
4 cups of milk
4 egg yolks
Cook on low heat to pudding consistency and offer to new mother at
body temperature. She can eat as much as she wants. Has never caused
diarrhoea and brings in abundance of milk!!!

OR from scratch...

mix the following in a saucepan and cook to pudding consistency.
2/3 cup sugar
6 tablespoons cornstarch
½ teas salt
4 cups milk (or one can evap milk plus equal parts water to make quart)
4 egg yolks
3 teaspoons vanilla
Feed with syringe, on spoon, or let eat from bowl.

...full of protein and nourishment....have never had it cause diarrhoea.

Stop the leash pulling...fix the jumping...end the surfing

2010-02-25T07:51:00.000-08:00

Spring Workshops!

On the Road Again: Saturday April 11 , 2010 at 3:00-5:00pm. This fun class provides the desired skills in order to handle your dog in public. Class participants will practice skills in several different locations in the community. Fee is $60

Dog and Pet First Aid: Sunday March 7 , 2010 at 1:00-3:00pm . This informative workshop will be both lecture and hands on. It will cover a variety of topics and participants will gain the skills needed to deal with emergencies or injury. Fee is $55. Please, NO DOGS.

Focus, Control and Recall EVERYTIME ™ and Counter Surfin: Saturday March 13, at 2:00-3:30pm. Learn to keep your dog’s focus, in any situation, including dog parks, around those pesky squirrels, learn Come When Called EVERYTIME ™and so much more. Fee is $40. Limited to 5 students.

Polite Greetings, Leash Walking and Too Much Barking:Thursday April 22, at 7:00-8:15pm. Does your dog's pulling or jumping embarrass you? Or maybe you just want your arm back in its socket and the scratches on your legs to heal. Whatever your reasons for teaching your dog not to jump up during greetings and to walk politely on leash, it's a great idea! Fee is $35. Limited to 5 students.

Make your Own Dog Toys & Desserts: Sunday May 23, at 7:00-8:30pm. A great gift for your fur-ball. Toys made for all of your furry friends (DOGS & CATS). We will make a tug toy and other fun dog toys. $30 includes supplies while also enjoying wonderful desserts! Please, NO DOGS.

Senior Dog Care: Sunday June 30, at 7:00-8:30pm. This special informative class is specifically for those who are, or will have, the unique experience of a senior dog. This discussion will include topics on nutrition, joint issues, hearing, sight, and other areas. Fee is $35.

Puppy Primer: Saturdays--April 17, at 6:00-7:30pm; May 15, at 6:00-7:30pm; June 12, at 6:00-7:30pm. This wonderful workshop will be your survival guide to puppyhood! Maybe it’s your first puppy or it’s been years since your home had the pitter patter of puppy feet. This jam packed workshop will cover all you need to establish a wonderful foundation for your puppy’s education. Fee is $35.

Pre-registration needed, CALL TODAY Discounts for registering for more than one!

Unleash your dog's true canine spirit!

2010-02-19T10:31:00.000-08:00

http://www.campunleashed.com/

From Camp Unleashed: Escape to the country and enjoy a re-energizing retreat in nature with your dog and other dog lovers. Hike with your dog off-leash in a safe, forested setting; take refreshing swims together in an inviting lake; discover your dog’s talents in agility and other canine sports.

Two Locations to Choose From

Camp Unleashed takes place in two scenic and natural locations, both set along forested mountains with natural streams.

Our Camp Unleashed Berkshires is held in the beautiful Berkshire Mountains of western Massachusetts, near Great Barrington and Lenox, on the 1,300-acre grounds of the Becket-Chimney Corners YMCA Camp (www.bccymca.org) in Becket, MA. It is within easy reach from the New York State Thruway and the Massachusetts Turnpike, (39 miles northwest of Springfield, 121 miles west of Boston, and 150 miles from New York City).

Our new Camp Unleashed Asheville takes place at Blue Star Camps (www.bluestarcamps.com) on a private 500-acre estate, just outside of Hendersonville, NC in the majestic Blue Ridge Mountains of western North Carolina, 27 miles from the scenic and artsy city of Asheville.

Both camps have private spring-fed lakes, gorgeous grassy open sports fields, miles of trails in the forest for hiking, and both are accredited by the American Camp Association (ACA).

Each Camp Unleashed session is limited to 50 people to ensure a high quality experience and maximum freedom for the dogs. Camp is for dogs of all sizes, shapes and varieties as long as they are dog and people friendly. Camp is all about fun and NOT for serious sports competition or "obedience" training. We believe that dogs, like us, learn best through positive reinforcement when they are having a good time. All of our activities are designed to enhance and deepen your relationship with your dog.

Separation Anxiety VS. Looking For Something To Do

2010-02-03T06:30:00.000-08:00

Separation Anxiety VS. Looking For Something To Do

Separation anxiety (S.A.) symptoms often resemble boredom behaviors, including chewing, dissecting, digging (if dogs are left outside), "accidents" in the house, and excessive vocalization. A close look at your lifestyle will determine if yours is a case of dog anxiety or dog boredom.

Some Dogs Struggle With Modern Lifestyles

According to Raymond and Lorna Coppinger, dogs evolved because humans have inadvertently or intentionally selected for "low flight distance" for millennia - those dogs that were most comfortable in close proximity to humans and their settlements were most likely to receive food from humans. Closeness to humans conferred a reproductive advantage for dogs through increased access to resources.

Traditionally, this arrangement worked well for dogs. Then and in many rural areas today, leashes or fences were few or non-existent. Dogs could roam off-leash, greeting other dogs, chasing squirrels, rabbits, deer, woodchucks, cats, and the occasional skunk or porcupine. Crashing happily through woods, fields, and streams, dogs exercised their bodies and all their senses. Many worked closely with their owners all day hunting, herding, carting, or guarding. These dogs would then return home exhausted, crash on the floor to happily receive belly rubs, and sleep until morning. Very few dogs living this type of lifestyle suffer from separation anxiety.

Automobile traffic makes this type of lifestyle dangerous for dogs now, and busy modern lifestyles and long working days make similar stimulations impractical and out of reach for most dog owners. This is a conflict of interests - what is in the best interest of the dog (plentiful mental and physical stimulation) conflicts with the owner's desire to relax after a long day.

Ask Not What Your Dog Can Do For You, But What You Are Doing For Your Dog

How much exercise does your dog get? How much daily training? How often do you play with her? How long are you separated each day? How often does she socialize with other dogs appropriately?

Many dogs have deficits in socialization (with humans and dogs), mental stimulation (training, toys, play), and/or physical stimulation (running, swimming, walking, hiking, playing). Make sure to provide your dog with an opportunity to engage in all three daily. If dogs are not provided with this stimulation, boredom digging, chewing, barking, will likely ensue. Fulfilling basic needs remedies behavior problems related to boredom.

Puppy Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety can take root in puppyhood - now is the time for prevention. It is always better to prevent than un-train; so provide your puppy with "stuff to do" in your absence (stuffed Kongs, a visit from a puppy walker to play/walk), and always remember to make entries and exits to the home very low key (these are good tips for adult dogs as well!). Practice separation as a behavior, starting with a small duration and gradually building as your dog is successful.

If you must say goodbye to your dog, do it well before you plan on leaving (at least a half hour in advance) and get it out of the way - remember that this is for your benefit - not your dog's; dramatic goodbyes will only teach her that separation is cause for stress. Wait for calm behavior before greeting your dog upon your return home, and keep the greetings quiet, relaxed.

Identifying Separation Anxiety In Dogs

If your dog's basic needs are being met and you still suspect separation anxiety, look for the following symptoms: extreme destruction of property or self (tearing walls apart, bloodying paws trying to escape from a crate, breaking or cracking of teeth trying to escape the house or enter if left outside, anorexia/inability to drink fluids when left alone, inability to be separated from you (even briefly, in another room) while you're at home, and anxiety behavior related to one specific individual in the household (dog is not relieved by the presence of other household members in the absence of the attachment figure). If you note these symptoms in your dog, consult with a behavioral professional for guidance.

Dog Separation Anxiety Solutions

Dog separation anxiety treatment should include desensitization and counter-conditioning to the attachment figure's absence as well as the environmental cues which predict her absence (grabbing keys, putting coat/shoes on, sunglasses, starting the car, etc.). For extreme cases, it is best to bring a veterinary behaviorist into the rehabilitation team, as some S.A. dogs can benefit from conventional or alternative medical treatments. For dogs with hormonal or neuro-chemical imbalances, desensitization and counter-conditioning may need to be accompanied by medication or supplementation. For these dogs, neither medical nor behavioral treatment will be successful without the other.

Courtesy of Dogster www.dogster.com

Preparing a dog for a new baby

2010-01-28T15:02:00.000-08:00

Preparations for introducing your dog to a new baby should begin several weeks before the baby's actual arrival. It is important that your dog be well trained. He should at least know how to sit, stay, not jump up, and come when called. The main reason for training is to establish your leadership so that he/she will trust you not to abandon him/her when this new creature arrives and the bond will be strong enough for him/her to continue to obey your commands.

The first thing to do prior to baby's arrival is to get a doll. Sprinkle it with baby powder, wrap it in a blanket, cradle it, rock it, talk to it, and walk around the house with it. At the same time, praise your dog for not jumping up on you, by saying, "Good dog." Show the "doll baby" to your dog. Let him/her smell the baby. Give praise and food treats at the same time.

Next, get a recording of a crying baby and play it softly at first. Praise your dog, while listening, and reinforce his quiet behavior with a food treat. Each day increase the volume and continue the praise and food treat. Continue to expose your dog to the smell of baby blankets and powder. Invite a friend with a baby to your house. Reinforce good behavior with praise while the baby is visiting.

On the day of arrival, it would be best for you to walk in without baby and greet the dog. Then, someone else brings in the baby. If you can trust your dog's behavior around babies at this time, let him/her see, smell, and touch the baby. Do not worry if he/she licks the baby. You can wash it off later. Besides, a dog's mouth has less bacteria than a human's!

If you act happy and relaxed while your dog is in the presence of the new baby, it should not take more than a few weeks for him/her to accept this new littermate. If you are nervous about your dog's intentions for a good reason such as growling, you may want to consider using a muzzle when baby and dog are together. It is best not to allow a dog unsupervised access to a new baby for awhile. Some dogs are unnerved by loud crying and flailing arms and legs. Be sure you know your dog is comfortable in all situations before allowing unattended access.

Some dogs will break housesoiling rules for a short time after baby's arrival. They think that if this new littermate creature can do it anywhere, so can they. To discourage this from happening, do not leave dirty diapers lying around.

You may not have the same feeling of devotion and love toward your dog after your baby arrives. Be prepared for this surprising change of attitude. Your dog is no longer your baby. The important thing to remember is to try and give him as much attention, playtime, and exercise as before.

Honest Kitchen Pet Food...We proudly carry at Leading the Way!

2010-01-28T09:03:00.000-08:00

Here's what makes our foods and our company, a little bit different from the rest!

Minimal Processing
By using a gentle dehydration process, we are able to maintain the integrity of our core ingredients. Our fruits and vegetables are harvested at the peak of their ripeness then gently dried. Dehydration ensures that the enzymes, vitamins and nutrients are still intact, so our fruits and vegetables are actually considered raw. Our meat and egg ingredients are dehydrated at a high enough temperature to kill any pathogenic bacteria that may be present.

Dehydrated foods are highly nutritious, easy to prepare and store, and light-weight to ship. It also means that you don’t have to worry about feeding your pet any harsh preservatives. Essentially, our only preservative is the lack of air – how cool?

Human-Grade Ingredients and Production - from farm to bowl
When it comes to sourcing ingredients and preparing our food, we fell back on the simple phrase that mothers and grandmothers are mouthing around the world right now, “You are what you eat.” The same holds true for pets. Human-grade, for us, is not just a marketing term. We believe that your pets deserve the same nourishing diets that you would feed your family.

All our products are safe for human consumption, a requirement for entry into the human food facility where our products are made. Each of our diets are carefully blended to encompass a broad array of amino acids, phytonutrients, vitamins, minerals and enzymes to help achieve and maintain optimum health. Production occurs in a FDA inspected human food facility right here in California, alongside products such as breakfast cereals and beverage mixes for human consumption.

Whole Foods from Suppliers Who Care
All chickens are not created equal; while some have never seen the light of day, ours are free range. We choose suppliers who care because, we care. Here's just a snap-shot of some of our carefully chosen ingredients. Sign up for our e-newsletter to learn more about our ingredients and how we choose them.
Chicken - 100% Free-Range, Sustainably Farmed and Humanely Raised.
Ground flaxseed - certified organic from Washington, USA
Cranberries - natural, unsweetened and free of sulfites from Massachusetts, USA
Sea Kelp - certified organic kelp grown in Breidafjord, northwest Iceland
Quinoa - certified organic, fair-trade from Bolivia, South America – it’s sourced from more than 1000 small, indigenous family farms to provide the families with a valuable, fair-trade income.
Apples - natural, unsweetened and free of sulfates from Washington
Grains – certified organic, whole rolled from Montana, USA

For Dogs
Verve
Organic rolled rye, USDA beef, organic flaxseed, organic rolled oats, carrots, alfalfa, potatoes, eggs, spinach, apples, cranberries, chicory, parsley, rosemary, vitamins and minerals.

Force
USDA Free-range chicken, organic flaxseed, potatoes, celery, sweet potatoes, apples, alfalfa, organic kelp, honey, zucchini, green beans, cabbage, bananas, papayas, yogurt, basil, garlic, rosemary, vitamins and minerals.

Embark
USDA turkey, organic flaxseed, potatoes, celery, spinach, carrots, organic coconut, apples, organic kelp, eggs, sesame seeds, bananas, cranberries, rosemary, vitamins and minerals.

Thrive
USDA Free-range chicken, organic quinoa, sweet potatoes, spinach, parsley, organic kelp, rosemary, vitamins and minerals

Keen
USDA Turkey, organic oats, potatoes, organic flaxseed, carrots, cabbage,alfalfa, organic kelp, apples, honey, garlic, vitamins and minerals.

Preference base-mix
Alfalfa, sweet potatoes, cabbage, celery, apples, spinach, organic kelp, organic coconut, bananas, zucchini, honey, vitamins and minerals.

For Cats
Prowl
USDA Free-range chicken, eggs, potatoes, yams, organic flaxseed, zucchini, spinach, cranberries, rosemary, vitamins and minerals.

Litter Box Do and Don'ts! You cat will love you for reading this!

2010-01-27T11:39:00.000-08:00

Do:

Scoop the litter box twice daily - at a minimum.

Use clumping litter or low dust litter - except for kittens younger than 8 weeks of age.

Use unscented litter.

Keep the litter deep enough 3-4 inches.

Use large litter boxes.

Have enough litter boxes available. One more than your cat household 3 cats = 4 litter boxes

Have litter boxes placed in a quiet area.

Use a litter mat that is comfortable for your cat to walk on.

Seek veterinary attention if your cat stops using the litter box.

Do NOT:

Use pelleted (pine or newspaper) or crystal/white pearl litters.

Use scented litters or any deodorizers.

Use plastic 'grass' mats.

Punish your cat for not using the litter box.

Put your child(ren) in charge of litter box maintenance with adult supervison.

When cleaning your litterbox:

Scoop litter boxes at least twice daily removing both feces and urine.

It is critical to be able to remove both the feces and the urine each time the box is cleaned. Clumping litter is helpful for cleaning that allows for this to be done completely. Higher quaility litter is a must, to assit in keeping the box clean.

EXCEPTION TO ABOVE: Clumping Litter and Kittens (younger than 8 weeks of age) often have temporary bouts of diarrhea for various reasons. They are also more apt to step in their feces and then end up with messy cement boots. Very small kittens may even attempt to eat the litter. For this reason, I advise using a NONclumping litter for small kittens.

Number of Boxes and Location

2010-01-25T03:40:00.000-08:00

The number and location of the litter boxes are very important issues. Many cats will not use a litter box if it has been used by another cat. In addition, some cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in another. Also, a common cause of inappropriate elimination stems from a more dominant cat blocking the pathway to the litter box. The more passive/timid cat is forced to look elsewhere for a bathroom. In this situation it is critical to have enough boxes in ‘safe’ areas to minimize the potential for problems.

Don't put all of the litter boxes in the same spot if you have a bully cat that may be blocking a timid cat from the box. Place the boxes in quiet, low traffic areas. The laundry room and other high traffic areas are often not a suitable place due to the noise and may lead to many litter box aversion cases. Also, it is best to not place litter boxes near the cat’s eating area.

Newly adopted kitten or cat, keep their world small (a single room) until you know that they are using the litter box and is comfortable in his room. Be sure this room is a room that you and the household will visit. Depending on the kitten or cat, this may take several days or a couple of weeks. Only when he is comfortable in one room should you open up the door and let him venture out. Do not carry him to another part of the house. Instead, let him pick his own path so that he will know how to get back to his litter box.

Even if a new kitten is brave and sociable, please do not just turn your kitten loose in a large area please do not expect him to know or remember that his bathroom is 'down the hall...second door on the right'. When a kitten has to go....they can only hold for a short amount of time. Two boxes can help in this situation and it is recommended that you have at least two at any age.

Good Rule of thumb is have one more litter box than cats...3 cats you should have 4 boxes.

Is your cat not using the litter box....NOW WHAT???

2010-01-22T07:46:00.000-08:00

First of all DO NOT PUNISH YOUR CAT. Punishment will NOT help the situation and will often make matters worse. Few things upset me more than when I hear about people actually rubbing their cat's (or dog's) nose in the waste as if this will help the situation! The nose did not do it!!!

Seek veterinary attention as soon as possible. There are many medical reasons why cats stop using the litter box –

Diabetes, kidney disease, cystitis (painful inflammation of the bladder), bladder or kidney stones are some of the more common medical problems that can lead to a litter box aversion.

VERY IMPORTANT: If your cat is getting in and out of the litter box and is unable to pass any urine or is looking like he is distressed and wanting to urinate outside the box this is a MEDICAL EMERGENCY! A cat with a blockage of the urinary tract can rupture his bladder within 24 hours resulting in death. You may also notice a blocked cat or one with cystitis licking the genital area frequently.

A cat with cystitis will pass SMALL amounts of urine FREQUENTLY so also make note of the size and number of the urine balls on a daily basis. A 100 percent canned food diet with its high water and low carbohydrate content must be included in the treatment for any cat with cystitis, diabetes, or bladder stones. In fact, all cats should be on 100 percent canned food or a raw meat diet. Dry food is an illogical food source for a cat and causes many health problems. Dry food, with its species-inappropriate water content, is not a friend of the urinary tract system - especially the bladder.

Once you have ruled out a medical issue, you need to evaluate your cat's litter box system:

1) Are you using an UNscented clumping litter?

2) Is his box kept very clean? Less than 3-4 items at a maximum?

3) Is his litter box big enough?

4) Is it in a safe location as far as he is concerned?

5) Are there any feline housemates that may be tormenting him in the litter box - not allowing him to enter or exit?

6) Are there enough boxes? Some cats like to urinate in one and defecate in another one.

7) If you are using a hooded box, have you tried taking the hood off?

8) If you are having problems transitioning an outdoor cat to an indoor cat and he is refusing to use the litter box, or if your cat prefers using your potted plants instead of his litter box, try using potting soil instead of clumping litter. Once the cat has used the potting soil on a regular basis for a couple of weeks, you can gradually add a small amount of clumping litter to see if you can change him over. You will need to empty the box twice daily when using potting soil and scrub the box each time. Also please understand that by using this non-clumping substrate, the urine will soak into the litter box (plastic is fairly porous and easily impregnated with odors) with only a few urinations so I strongly suggest that you get a new litter box when you switch over to using the clumping litter and start with a fresh, clean box.

Cat Litter Box Issues- “inappropriate elimination,”

2010-01-21T07:16:00.000-08:00

Urinating and defecating outside of the litter box, also known as “inappropriate elimination,” is one of the most common reasons for a cat to be relinquished to a shelter or, in some cases, abused. Sadly, in many cases it is the fault of the human in charge of the litter box duties. When someone is asked how often they flush their toilet, the answer is usually, "every time it is used, of course!" We would be disgusted at the thought of anything less and we all know how repulsive 'porta-potties' are and we are not even asked to walk around in that repulsive 'porta-potty' like humans often ask of their cats!

So why do we expect our cats to use dirty litter boxes instead of just going some place else? Humans seem to forget that a cat’s sense of smell is infinitely more sensitive than our own. Add to this the instinctive nature of the cat to be clean and a dirty litter box spells disaster. Think about how a wild cat would handle his bathroom duties. He would not be confined to a 1’ x 2’ 'bathroom.’ He would not choose to walk around in his own waste. He would simply choose another plot of land and that “plot of land” could be behind your sofa or in another area of your home.

Top reasons for a cat to stop using the litter box:

Dirty litter box(es)

Poor choice of litter type (using pellets/crystals/non-clumping litter)

Poor location of litter box(es)

Blocked from the box by a dominant feline housemate

Box size is too small

Too few boxes

Medical problem(s) This should always be a serious consideration. Many medical issues such as diabetes, cystitis and bladder stones can be avoided by feeding canned food not dry food. The increased water content and the decreased carbohydrate content of canned food are healthier for your cat than dry

Crate Training Your Dog

2010-01-06T15:30:00.000-08:00

Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules, such as what he can and can’t chew and where he can and can’t eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he will think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed. Always provide water for your dog anytime he is in the crate. Spill proof bowls or bowls that attach to the kennel gate work best.

Selecting A Crate
Crates may be plastic (often called “flight kennels”) or collapsible, metal pens. Collapsible fabric kennels are designed for use when the owner is present and may not contain a dog for long periods while unsupervised. Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog’s crate should be large enough for him to stand up and turn around in.

The Crate Training Process
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training; one, the crate should always be associated with something pleasant; and two, training should take place in a series of small steps – don’t go too fast.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog To The Crate
• Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is securely fastened open so it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.

• To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop small food treats near it, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay – don’t force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals In The Crate
• After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.

• Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine and he’ll keep doing it.

Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog To The Crate For Longer Time Periods
• After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter, such as, “kennel up.” Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate.

• Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4:
Part A – Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate .You’ll want to vary at what point in your “getting ready to leave” routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.

Part B – Crating Your Dog At Night
Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn’t become associated with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer. Puppies that are healthy can have their water taken from them a few hours before bedtime to help decrease the frequency of potty trips they need to make during the night.

Potential Problems

Too Much Time In The Crate
A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. Also, remember that puppies under 6 months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.

Whining
If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you followed the training procedures outlined above, your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. Try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside.

This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Do not give in, otherwise you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem; if the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

2003-2006 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved.

Pet Food Drive...Help TODAY!!!

2010-01-05T14:33:00.000-08:00

Help us Help the pets of
the Pioneer Valley!

Pioneer K-9 4-H Club

is collecting pet food and supplies to support the local shelters & rescues in the community!

Last year our club collect 900lbs.
This year goal is 1200lbs!

FOOD ● TOYS ● OFFICE SUPPLIES

Donate Now...until Feb 28th!

What is your dog trying to tell you?

2010-01-04T15:28:00.000-08:00

Calming signals are a set of body language skills which dogs use to maintain healthy relationships and resolve conflict without having to resort to aggressive behaviors.

These signals often occur early in interactions, as soon as a dog becomes aware that a situation may need “calming down.” This facet of canine communication is designed to help dogs calm themselves and others in the face of stress. Additionally, many dogs make use of calming signals in an effort to simply show goodwill. Dogs with the inability to signal and/or respond appropriately to signals often find themselves in predicaments. Essentially, calming signals are meant for the dog to display their stress in the hopes that the individual it is communicating with will understand and alter their behavior.

All breeds of dogs have calming signals; however some are more developed than others due to the differences in their physical attributes. Sometimes these signals may be very subtle in nature and at other times much more overt, often depending upon the level of threat that a dog is feeling. Many calming signals appear to be hardwired into dogs.

For example, puppies may exhibit yawning as early as their first day when they are being picked up and handled. Dogs never completely lose their language, but if they do not have the opportunity to practice their signals, or if they are inadvertently punished for using them, calming signals may become suppressed, which unfortunately turns into a vicious circle.

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE SPECIFIC SIGNALS?
When assessing if a dog is exhibiting calming signals or not, it is important to always look at the context of the situation surrounding the behavior.

1. Head turning/Averting gaze
2. Blinking/Softening gaze
3. Turning away
4. Play bow
5. Curving
6. Slow movements
7. Yawning
8. Sniffing
9. Splitting
10. Nose licking
11. Sitting/Laying down
12. Tail wagging
13. Marking
14. Freezing

Did Santa or Hanukkah Harry leave you a puppy

2009-12-23T14:25:00.000-08:00

So you have a puppy NOW WHAT!!!

"He won't stop whining."
"She chews everything in sight."
"He won't come when he's called."
"She scares the kids when she jumps and nips."
"He doesn't want to be cuddled."
"She's the cutest puppy, but ..."

There are visions of a furry, kissing, fun and frolicy, playing puppy in our heads when we decide to bring a puppy into the family, but those visions can deteriorate into frustration for those who are unprepared for the potential difficulties of puppy training and adjustment to family life.

Relax. First of all, these days do pass, often with lightning quickness. Second, puppies really are pretty easy to deal with - a couple of square meals, several trips outside, and lots of playtime balanced with lots of sleeping are the general rule for the first few weeks at home.
Socialization is important, but it needn't be a chore.

There's no doubt that the first few weeks with a new puppy can be exasperating. Much like having a newborn human baby. That tiny bundle of fur that was soooo friendly at the breeder's home, the kennel, the pet store, or the animal shelter has some behaviors that drive people crazy.

There's chewing, biting, jumping, and oh yeah, the whining and barking! While all normal for dogs, what matters is that the housetraining go smoothly and relatively quickly, that the nipping of children be held to a minimum, and that chewing on furniture and clothing be stopped or prevented.

It's important to remember that puppies are always learning about their environment and their people. Most puppies are housetrained by four months of age, but it may take supreme diligence on the part of owners to prevent accidents until that time.

The first 16 weeks of a puppy's life are critical in determining how he/she will fit into the family. Early socialization is important from the day you get the puppy home. Your puppy needs to experience the world to be sure they become the dog you dream of. All socialization experiences should be fun, positive and a memorable experience for your young dog. This is best done with treats. For example, when your pup meets new people, have the pup sit and then you give a treat for good manners. Food is a great memory maker for dogs.

Fun is the key

Puppy training and socialization should be fun for both owner and dog. Puppies can be taught to sit, lie down, and come for rewards. Even eight-week-old puppies can sit for their dinner or treats and lie down to be groomed. Puppies that resist can be taught with persistence and consistency on the part of all family members. It does no good if Mom requires puppy to sit before meals if Dad doesn't follow through or if Susie slips Fluffy a bit of bacon from her breakfast plate.

Puppies and holidays …

• be sure to provide him/her with a crate to serve as a safe place. It should be away from any hustle and bustle and food temptations.

• stick to puppy food for the newcomer; table food, especially rich table food, is likely to upset his/her stomach.

• keep him away from the Christmas tree or other holiday items so he/she can't break or steal ornaments, burn his nose on the lights, nibble on garlands, or tear through gift packages.

• make sure he/she gets outside to relieve himself in a timely fashion. Set an alarm if you need a reminder. Remember a puppy can hold their bladder for 1 hour for each month of age. (i.e. 8 weeks old (2 months) can hold it for 2 hours)

• keep house plants out of reach
• don't leave perishables on the coffee table.
• don't let him/her get over-excited.
• don't let over-excited children give him grief.

The more the merrier….adding a second dog to your family!

2009-12-23T14:14:00.000-08:00

Most dogs will enjoy having a canine companion in the home. Here are some suggestions for making the introduction of a new dog a smooth process.

When choosing a new dog, try to match your dog's personality and temperament, and most importantly, play style as well as your family's lifestyle. If your resident dog is a lap dog, he/she might not welcome an active terrier or herding breed. For example, a couch potato type dog is not the best match for a very active dog or household.

All dogs should have basic manners, for harmony as much as safety, but this will be more important when bringing in a second dog. If your dog needs a refresher course, do that first. Training is also a good way to bond with your new dog. A great relationship builder is working with both dogs to teach manners together.

If your dog has any behavioral problems, you should resolve those before bringing in a second dog. If your dog isn't completely housetrained or barks all the time, you'll soon have two dogs with that problem. There are a few exceptions, such as a dog suffering from separation anxiety from being alone for the first time in its life. This dog may actually do better if you bring in a second dog.

Give both dogs some exercise (separately) before the introduction, so that they will be a bit tired and more relaxed.

Introduce the dogs on neutral territory – in a park, for example – not in your home. This is very important. If you bring the new dog directly into your home, your dog may feel that his or her territory is threatened, and may react defensively or aggressively. Take them for a walk, having them walk side by side, not one in front of the other.

Keep both dogs on a leash, even if they are in an enclosed space, to give you control if one becomes aggressive. (You hold the resident dog's leash – have a friend hold the other.)
Keep a positive attitude and speak calmly. Avoid high-pitched, rapid-fire "reassuring" words and anxious petting, which we construe as calming, but dogs hear – rightly so - as anxiety-ridden.

Make the experience pleasant – give treats, such as bits of deli chicken or hot dog. Be careful, however, only to reward good behavior. Do not use treats to distract from a problem, and be sure you are not inadvertently rewarding aggression or bad behavior. If both dogs sit without growling, give a treat - within three seconds. Timing, and an immediate connection to the good behavior, is crucial to make the dog remember and understand what behavior is desired and is being rewarded.

Remember that dogs are hierarchical. One will be dominant. This is usually the resident dog, but if it is not, do not try to reverse the order they establish because you feel sorry for your dog – that will simply prolong the conflict. A submissive dog is not an unhappy dog – some dogs greatly prefer to let someone else (human or canine) be in charge.

If the dogs get into a minor tussle, as long as neither one is getting injured, do not interfere. (If you break up the conflict too soon, they may bring more of the unresolved tension to the next encounter.) Simply walk in opposites directions to separate the dogs. STAY CALM!

Accidents do happen--do not worry, yell, or punish. Simply clean it up and move on. Be sure to give both dogs extra opportunities to relieve themselves outside until he/she becomes accustomed to your routine and schedule. If either dog starts to urinate or mark inside the house, consider consulting a Trainer/Behaviorist.

Be sure to give your resident dog the same amount of affection he received in the past. Don't give him a reason to be jealous. If he got a walk or a play session at a particular time of day, be sure to continue that. The less the routine is disrupted, the easier this will be.

If your resident dog is crate-trained, it is best to start that with the new dog immediately. Remember that dogs are den animals – properly crating a dog (correct size, reasonable amounts of time, etc.) is not cruel and may help the dog feel safe and secure. Some dogs prefer solid crates to wire; if you only have wire, put a sheet or towel over the wire crate (but be sure to allow air circulation).
Each dog should have his own food and water dishes. Leave some space between the new dog's bowls and the resident's bowls. Food can be one of the most competitive areas for dogs – feed them separately if you have any doubts about their relationship.

Don't overwhelm the new dog with visitors, particularly if he/she is a puppy, during the first days in your home. Remember that change is stressful – allow the dog some quiet time.
Within a few days, the dogs should be getting along nicely, happy to have each other as a friend and pack member.

Additional Reading:

Second Hand Dog, by Carol Lea Benjamin.

The Other End of the Leash, by Patricia McConnell, Ph.D. (2002) with positive training methods; how to use human and dog body language to help your dog understand what you want the dog to do. Also a good read.

Excel-Erated Learning: Explaining in Plain English How Dogs Learn and How Best to Teach Them, by Pamela Reid.

Does your dog jump on guests?? Poor Greeting Behavior

2009-12-21T10:20:00.000-08:00

First I feel it is important to remind everyone, that jumping up during greeting humans makes sense to your dog. That is how they greet another dog. So in dogdom, it is a proper greeting, even thought to be a polite greeting. With that said, in the human world, it is rude, offends guests, and can be also dangerous.

We all know the scenario--you come home and are jumped on, kissed from head to toe, your dog(s) may scratch you, etc.

In this entry, I am going to explain how to change the

Poor Greeting Behavior.

Before we start, I need to be sure you understand that methods such as kneeing, pushing your dog off, stepping on your dogs toes, or worse, the smashing of your forearm across their muzzle and leash pull correction (as the dog jumps on a person, the handler pulls the leash to literally pull the dog off their feet), will not change your dog's jumping and poor greeting behavior. It will, in fact, change your relationship with your dog. These types of methods cause fear, distrust, and worst of all, physical pain in the dog.

How to fix it the right way....

Step one--you need to change how you are greeting your pup. Calm behavior gets calm behavior. For example, if you allow yourself to get all excited and talk in a high pitch tone, with hyper body language, your dog only naturally wants to react the same way. You can provide the love and express that you missed your dog by being calm and controlled. You set the tone and you set the needed greeting behavior.

Next, you will need to practice the sit command, not just during greeting times, but all the time. Without a strong foundation for sit, you will be unable to replace the poor greeting with the much more socially acceptable sit.

In the beginning, you will want to collect the following types of treats for the practice sessions--not the run of the mill type treat--you know, the dry old dog biscuits.

You want the high value treats, like pieces of chicken, liver, cheese, or other soft treat. The treat should be the size of a piece of Cheerio cereal.

As you practice remember to send a consistent message to your dog in all circumstances. Make it simple for your dog and eliminate any confusion. This means that everybody who comes into contact with your dog has to reinforce the same message. It's pointless and unfair if you give your dog a cuddle and attention when he jumps up on you, but then yell at him when he jumps up on a delivery man.

Don't give your dog what he/she wants (attention) every time he jumps up and you'll find the behavior decreases.

When you see that your dog is ready to launch up at you, turn your back or walk away from him. During this process don't make any eye contact with your dog and don't say a thing. Ignore your dog and make it clear to him that when he jumps he gets nothing from you. Ask for a sit, say it just once and otherwise do not talk to your dog.

When your dog has settled down and stops jumping, you then initiate some contact with him. Get down to his level and praise and a nice scratch behind the ear.

If you are consistent and persistent with this method, your dog will soon learn that staying on all four legs is a much better alternative!

Holiday Cookies are not just for people.....your dog will love these cookies!

2009-12-08T09:02:00.000-08:00

Chicken/Beef Dog Treats

Preparation Method -------- ------------ --------------------------------
3 jars baby food -- (2 1/2 oz. each) either beef or chicken
1/4 cup Dry milk powder
1/4 cup Wheat germ (cream of wheat can be substituted for wheat germ)

Combine ingredients in bowl and mix well. Roll into small balls and place on well-greased cookie sheet. Flatten slightly with a fork. Bake in preheated 350F. oven for 15 minutes until brown. Cool on wire racks and STORE IN REFRIGERATOR. Also freezes well. *Variation: substitute cream of wheat for wheat germ and then used tablespoon to make cookie sized drops on plate.

Microwave for 4 minutes on Medium-High. Suggest keeping an eye on them in microwave and perhaps start out for only 3 1/2 minutes. They do come out soft. Also suggested using Beef/Vegetable Dinner Baby Dinner instead of Beef or Chicken.

Cookies are soft and chewy (good for older pets who have lost a few teeth). And they can be whipped up in no time.

Great COOKIES
2 cups whole wheat flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 cup natural peanut butter
1 cup skim milk

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Combine flour and baking powder in one bowl, and peanut butter and milk in another. Add wet ingredients to dry and mix well. Roll dough out on a lightly floured surface and knead. Roll out to 1/4 inch thick and cut out shapes with a cookie cutter. Place on greased baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes or until lightly browned.

Cool in rack and store in an airtight container.