How to use kong... A great training tool....

RECIPE FOR THE "ALMOST PERFECT" DOG It is reassuring to know that the ingredients for an "almost perfect" dog are available to any responsible dog owner. You can enjoy the wonderful benefits of an "almost perfect" dog. The ingredients are: 1. One clean bill of health. You can help ensure this vital ingredient with current vaccinations and regular veterinary check ups. 2. One proper I.D. Make sure your dog has a license and/or I.D. (dog tags, tattoo, canine microchip). 3. One well-nourished, well-exercised dog. Feed your dog as recommended by your veterinarian, professional trainer or breeder. Exercise your dog as often as possible. 4. One safe, secure, comfortable environment free from abuse and neglect. If your dog spends much time outdoors, a well-insulated dog house in a fenced area should be provided. Inside, a crate (dog den) is recommended by most trainers. Start crate training early - ask your veterinarian! 5. A full measure of time. Time spent with your dog should include training flavored with reward, correction/positive reinforcement, petting, grooming and exercise such as walking, playing, fetching, and just being with you and your family. Missing ingredients result in behavior problems. Over 60% of dogs in shelters are there as a result of behavior problems or lack of identification. MOST BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS ARE CORRECTABLE! Don't despair! Make sure your dog has a clean bill of health, then contact your professional trainer and/or animal behaviorist for help. Prevention is always the best cure for behavior problems! Lack of training and physical and mental understimulation (boredom) are primary causes of misbehavior. They can be easily prevented by enrolling in basic training classes (contact your veterinarian for a referral) and using Kong Dog Toys for healthy physical and mental stimulation. Kong Dog Toys are widely used and recommended for therapy and prevention of understimulation, boredom, separation anxiety and other behavior problems. Following are some simple ways Kongs can be utilized to promote good behavior in your dog. It is important for dogs to succeed at their "work". Make it easy to remove the kong stuffing at first. AS THEY BECOME MORE EXPERIENCED, YOU MAY WANT TO MAKE THEIR JOB MORE CHALLENGING - HERE'S HOW: 1. Pack stuffing tighter. 2. Wedge biscuits inside the cavity using the inside rim of the opening to secure them. 3. FREEZE IT! Very Popular! Try various combinations of canned food, gravy, noodles, rice and mashed potatoes mixed with food nuggets and freeze. KONGSICLES are a favorite with many hot dogs! Put a dab of peanut butter in the small end of the Kong to plug it. Turn it upside down in a cup. Fill it full of water, chicken broth or fruit juice and freeze. Cool doggies! Kongsicles are recommended for outdoor use. 4. CHEESE IT! Mix cheese pieces or cheese spread with food nuggets and microwave until cheese melts. Let it cool to a safe temperature. NOTE - Use a cup to contain the Kong when freezing or microwaving. KONG STUFFING RECIPES As you create recipes, be sensitive to your dog's tummy as you experiment. Following are recipes created by veterinarians, dog trainers and dog lovers worldwide. BANANA RAMA: 1 fresh banana · 2 tbs wheat germ · 1 tbs plain yogurt (can use your pet's favorite flavor as well) · Kong Toy that best fits your pet's chewing temperament In a bowl, mash up banana. Then, add wheat germ and yogurt. Mash all ingredients together and use spoon to add to Kong. Freeze for 4 hours. Makes 1 serving for Medium Kong. Double for every Kong Size that is bigger. CHEESY DENTAL KONG DELIGHT: 3 slices of your pet's favorite cheese · Dental Kong Toy A very simple and creative way to make any pet drool in delight. Just place the 3 slices of cheese directly onto the grooves of your pet's Dental Kong (if model has rope - make sure cheese does not get onto it). Melt in microwave for 20 to 30 seconds. Give to pet after it cools. PHILLY STEAK: steak scraps · 1 ounce cream cheese · appropriate Kong Toy Place small scraps of the steak inside Kong toy. Spread cream cheese in large hole to hold scraps. FRUIT SALAD: apple and carrot chunks · 1/4th of a banana · appropriate Kong Toy Place apples and carrots in Kong Toy. Mush the banana in large hole to hold fruit in place. You can include other fruits and veggies: orange slices · peach and/or nectarine chunks · celery sticks · broccoli and/or cauliflower · tomato and black olive mixture. VEGGIE KONG OMELET: 1 egg · your choice of shredded cheese · any vegetables that your pet may like · appropriate Kong Toy Scramble egg and fold in vegetables. Put into Kong toy. Sprinkle some cheese over the top and microwave for about 20 seconds. Cool thoroughly before giving to dog. MAC 'N CHEESE: Leftover macaroni and cheese · small cube of Velveeta · appropriate Kong Toy Melt Velveeta in microwave until gooey. Add mac 'n cheese to Kong Toy. Pour heated Velveeta into Kong. Make sure it has cooled before giving to your pet. FAMOUS RECIPES AUNT JEANNIE'S ARCHEOLOGY KONG (for advanced dogs) LAYER ONE (deepest): roasted, unsalted cashews · freeze dried liver bits LAYER TWO: dog kibble, cookies or liver biscotti · Cheerios · sugar-free, salt-free peanut butter · dried banana chips, apples and apricots LAYER THREE: carrot sticks · turkey or leftover ravioli or tortellini · Kong Toy (the larger the better!) Pack as tightly as possible. The last item inserted should be an apricot or piece of ravioli, presenting a smooth "finish" under the main opening. LIGHT VERSION: substitute crumbled rice cakes for cashews, Caesar croutons for freeze-dried liver, fat free cream cheese for peanut butter. - by Jean Donaldson KONG ON A ROPE: Dry dog kibble · appropriate Kong Toy · Rope Take the rope, pull it through the Kong Toy and knot it. Hang this upside down from a tree, deck or post. The small hole should be facing the ground. Take the kibble and fill the Kong Toy. Make the toy hang just low enough that it is out of your dog's reach. The dog will spend hours trying to retrieve the kibble from the Kong Toy. At the end of the day, take the remaining kibble and give to your pet as a reward. This is advanced work for your dog. - by Ian Dunbar FROZEN JERKY POPS: Peanut butter · bouillon · Jerky Strips · Water · appropriate Kong Toy · muffin tin Smear a small amount of peanut butter over small hole in your Kong Toy. Fill the cool water and add a pinch of bouillon. Place a Jerky Stick inside Kong Toy and freeze. This can also be put (once frozen) in a children's size swimming pool for a fun day of fishing for your pet. - by Terry Ryan SIMPLE, TRIED AND TRUE: Peanut butter · appropriate Kong Toy Smear peanut butter inside the cavity of your Kong Toy. It's that easy! - by trainers and vets worldwide TRIXIE'S FAVORITE: Trixie, a 50 pound Aussie/Springer mix, loves turkey, chicken or marrow bites mixed with slightly moistened food nuggets frozen inside her Kong. She is very clean about unstuffing - some dogs are not! - by Joe Markham Every dog has a favorite recipe - finding your dog's will be fun! REMEMBER: Some foods are not healthy for dogs. Check with your vet first. KONG HUNTING Hide stuffed Kongs indoors and/or out. The hunt is great fun and rewarding. IMPORTANT! a. Provide stuffed Kongs randomly so they won't always be associated with you leaving. b. If your dog is unstuffing several Kongs per day, you should appropriately reduce the amount of bowl feeding. c. CLEAN KONGS THOROUGHLY AFTER USE! Dishwasher is recommended. Your dog's job will last until the Kongs are unstuffed. You can keep your dog "working" all day if you provide enough stuffed Kongs! IMPORTANT! Use Kongs Safely! Your dog's safety is your responsibility! ALWAYS supervise your dog's use of Kongs until you are confident they can be used safely without you! Read Kong Toy User Guide!

New Sport for all dogs!

New Sport for all dogs! Gittel even enjoyed this new sport.....


Try Treibball! The New Herding Sport - No Sheep Required (whole dog journal)
This fun new sport replaces sheep with exercise balls to make herding accessible to any dog owner, anywhere!
Just when you think every possible canine sport has already been invented, someone comes up with a new one. This latest one is a humdinger, and it’s spreading like wildfire. If you haven’t already heard of treibball (pronounced “Try-ball” and also known as “Drive Ball”), you’ve been



Treibball (also known as “drive ball”) is a very new and very fun sport. Herding dogs are natural candidates, but so are any dogs that like to play with balls and dogs that enjoy shaping games. This is Kula, a two-year-old Weimaraner, learning the game at Sandi Pensinger’s training facility in Aptos, California.

Treibball is a terrific new way to play with your dog. The game consists of “herding” a number of large inflatable exercise balls into a soccer-like net. Of course the herding breeds come to mind, but it’s also great for many of the prey-oriented sporting dogs and terriers, and any other dogs who just like to chase things.

It’s a competitive sport for dogs of all ages and sizes. It promotes better teamwork and communication between a dog and his handler. It’s great fun for any energetic dogs who work well off-leash and need a job, dogs who like to chase stuff, or dogs who like to herd and don’t have sheep!

Treibball was developed by January Nijboer in Germany (“treibball” is variously translated from German as “blowing ball,” “drifting ball,” or “propelling ball”) as a game that would occupy herding dogs. Examples of treibball dogs in action aired a few months ago on YouTube and before you could say “Go bye!” the game went viral in the American dog training world – for good reason. A “flock” of exercise balls makes an inexpensive substitute for a flock of sheep, and doesn’t violate your neighborhood association’s rules, either.

Cool Treats indeed.......

Fun Stuff....Coool Stuff!


Summer Dog Treats #1: Chicken Meat Pops


This is a summer dog treat that any canine will go crazy for. It's also very simple to prepare. To make this summer dog treat, simply combine low-sodium chicken broth, cooked hamburger meat, and brown rice. Then pour the mixture into popsicle molds or an ice cube tray depending on the size of your dog. This is a treat that should be enjoyed outside, because it will make a mess. You could place these summer dog treats in a zip top bag and take these to the park for your dog to enjoy on a hot summer day.


Summer Dog Treats #2: Ice Cream Sandwiches


Does your dog drool as you sit there and enjoy an ice cream sandwich, then why not make them one of their own? To prepare this summer dog treat, you can either choose homemade ingredient or store bought. If you choose to use homemade ingredients, you can find recipes online for dog biscuits and ice cream that is safe for dogs. If you choose to use store bought ingredients, you will simply need to buy large or small dog biscuits (depending on your pet's size) and Frosty Paws, which is found in the ice cream section. Simply spread the ice cream on the dog biscuits and freeze until solid. If you wanted to make them even fancier, you could dip the edges in a smaller dog treat or kibble. This is a fun summer dog treat because it gives your dog a lot of different flavors and textures to enjoy.


Summer Dog Treats #3: Chicken Cubes


This summer dog treat couldn't be any easier to prepare. Simply pour low-sodium chicken stock into an ice cube tray and freeze. The is the perfect summer dog treat because it's easy to make, but it's something you can feel good about giving your pet, because you know what's in it.


Summer Dog Treats #4: Fruit Cubes


Another easy summer dog treat is fruit cubes. Many people don't realize it, but dogs love fruit. The next time you tell your dog no, because you think they won't like fruit, give them a piece and see how it goes. Once you have determined what their favorite fruits are, puree the fruit, pour it into ice cube trays, and freeze. These are summer dog treat that you and your pet can both enjoy. If your dog loves bananas, simply slice bananas into manageable pieces and freeze.


Summer Dog Treats #5: Ice Cream Sundaes


As mentioned above, you can find recipes online for homemade ice cream that is safe for dogs or you can purchase Frosty Paws at your grocery store. Either way, you can create a fun summer dog treat using dog-safe ice cream. Simply place the ice cream in their dish and top with low-sodium gravy. If you prefer, Iams actually makes gravy for dogs that would work well with this summer dog treat. You could even crush up some kibble and sprinkle it on top of the sundae.

Is your dog making you jumping mad?....

First step is understanding....Before you begin to stop any behavior you should try to understand why it is happening. Jumping on humans to a dog is a friendly gesture. It says I am no threat, I want to be friendly with you. This lesson will give you the tools to change the behavior yet allowing your dog to achive the same goal.

The second step to stop dog jumping understands that you will also need to train yourself, and your family members and most common house guests. You (and they) need to be aware of how to react and how not to react to this behavior. The last thing you want to do is pull your dog down or yell at him

Lesson: How to stop the jumping
Fortunately the process of training a dog not to jump on people is relatively simple, although it can be time consuming. Naturally, you will start with yourself. You will have to teach them to “sit” before you can begin. Once your dog can “sit”, on command you are ready to begin. THIS BEGINS THE SECOND YOU WALK INTO THE HOUSE, EVERYDAY, AND EVERYTIME.
1. First remember when using the “SIT” command speaks firmly but without yelling.

2. SAY SIT (no more than 2 times) Show the dog treat in your hand if you need to. As your dog approaches you or a guest say “SIT” (guests should say SIT, the person the dog is greeting MUST be the one to say sit. NOT THE OWNER. )
TROBLESHOOTING: If you dog does not sit, repeat the command up to 2 times no more then if you still do not have a sit, show the treat and use the SIT lure hand motion to achieve the desired behavior.

3. Reward for the SIT, give a treat. REMEMBER to be careful not to give the treat until he is at a full sit for at least 5 seconds (count in your head).
If you give the treat too soon, he'll think it is being given for jumping so he'll simply repeat the behavior. Just the opposite of what we want! Remember your dog thinks he's being friendly not aggressive. He really thinks you will like this. So it is essential that he understands he is being rewarded for sitting and not jumping.

As we mentioned, this may take a little more time than most training procedures simply because to him, jumping is both friendly and natural. His instinct is to be friendly and to want to play. And he loves being rewarded for it. Give your dog plenty of play time, but not when he jumps up on you. It's hard not to cuddle, hug or laugh with him as he jumps when you come home. But you have to hold back. You may even like it, but if you give approval and affection for this behavior, he'll have a hard time understanding that strangers and guests will not feel the same.

Now you'll need the help of family members and frequent guests. They need to know that they should not play with him when he jumps, and they also should not push him off. Your dog will likely see this pushing off behavior as playing. Instead, they should stand still or move sideways. Your dog will learn not to jump. They probably already know Fido will jump of them when they arrive, so they need to know not to react to him. It won't be long before Fido understands not to jump.

We do realize that this will be difficult for one of two reasons. First the person being jumped on may be nervous. Or second, they may want to play with the dog. And this is where the training can bog down. It may be best to keep these people away until the training is complete. Doing otherwise will only serve to confuse your pet, which in turn, will slow the training down.

Don't confuse him and it will be relatively easy to stop dog jumping. Give him the sit command and reward him when he doesn't jump. The less confusion there is, the faster the training will go. If you are consistent, and everyone is doing the same thing, it will be pretty quick training. And once you stop a dog from jumping, you and your guests will be happier. Fido will be too.

Long-Term Health Risks and Benefits Associated with Spay / Neuter in Dogs

Long-Term Health Risks and Benefits Associated with Spay / Neuter in Dogs Laura J. Sanborn, M.S. May 14, 2007 Precis

At some point, most of us with an interest in dogs will have to consider whether or not to spay / neuter our pet. Tradition holds that the benefits of doing so at an early age outweigh the risks. Often, tradition holds sway in the decision-making process even after countervailing evidence has accumulated. Ms Sanborn has reviewed the veterinary medical literature in an exhaustive and scholarly treatise, attempting to unravel the complexities of the subject. More than 50 peer-reviewed papers were examined to assess the health impacts of spay / neuter in female and male dogs, respectively. One cannot ignore the findings of increased risk from osteosarcoma, hemangiosarcoma, hypothyroidism, and other less frequently occurring diseases associated with neutering male dogs. It would be irresponsible of the veterinary profession and the pet owning community to fail to weigh the relative costs and benefits of neutering on the animal’s health and well-being. The decision for females may be more complex, further emphasizing the need for individualized veterinary medical decisions, not standard operating procedures for all patients.

No sweeping generalizations are implied in this review. Rather, the author asks us to consider all the health and disease information available as individual animals ar evaluated. Then, the best decisions should be made accounting for gender, age, breed, and even the specific conditions under which the long-term care, housing and training of the animal will occur.

This important review will help veterinary medical care providers as well as pet owners make informed decisions. Who could ask for more?

Larry S. Katz, PhD Associate Professor and Chair Animal Sciences Rutgers University New Brunswick, NJ 08901

INTRODUCTION
Dog owners in America are frequently advised to spay/neuter their dogs for health reasons. A number of health benefits are cited, yet evidence is usually not cited to support the alleged health benefits. When discussing the health impacts of spay/neuter, health risks are often not mentioned. At times, some risks are mentioned, but the most severe risks usually are not. This article is an attempt to summarize the long-term health risks and benefits associated with spay/neuter in dogs that can be found in the veterinary medical literature. This article will not discuss the impact of spay/neuter on population control, or the impact of spay/neuter on behavior.

Nearly all of the health risks and benefits summarized in this article are findings from retrospective epidemiological research studies of dogs, which examine potential associations by looking backwards in time. A few are from prospective research studies, which examine potential associations by looking forward in time.

SUMMARY
An objective reading of the veterinary medical literature reveals a complex situation with respect to the longterm health risks and benefits associated with spay/neuter in dogs. The evidence shows that spay/neuter correlates with both positive AND adverse health effects in dogs. It also suggests how much we really do not yet understand about this subject.

On balance, it appears that no compelling case can be made for neutering most male dogs, especially immature male dogs, in order to prevent future health problems. The number of health problems associated with neutering may exceed the associated health benefits in most cases.

On the positive side, neutering male dogs
• eliminates the small risk (probably <1%) of dying from testicular cancer
• reduces the risk of non-cancerous prostate disorders
• reduces the risk of perianal fistulas
• may possibly reduce the risk of diabetes (data inconclusive) On the negative side, neutering male dogs
• if done before 1 year of age, significantly increases the risk of osteosarcoma (bone cancer); this is a common cancer in medium/large and larger breeds with a poor prognosis.
• increases the risk of cardiac hemangiosarcoma by a factor of 1.6
• triples the risk of hypothyroidism
• increases the risk of progressive geriatric cognitive impairment
• triples the risk of obesity, a common health problem in dogs with many associated health problems • quadruples the small risk (<0.6%) of prostate cancer
• doubles the small risk (<1%) of urinary tract cancers
• increases the risk of orthopedic disorders
• increases the risk of adverse reactions to vaccinations

For female dogs, the situation is more complex. The number of health benefits associated with spaying may exceed the associated health problems in some (not all) cases. On balance, whether spaying improves the odds of overall good health or degrades them probably depends on the age of the female dog and the relative risk of various diseases in the different breeds. On the positive side, spaying female dogs

• if done before 2.5 years of age, greatly reduces the risk of mammary tumors, the most common malignant tumors in female dogs
• nearly eliminates the risk of pyometra, which otherwise would affect about 23% of intact female dogs; pyometra kills about 1% of intact female dogs
• reduces the risk of perianal fistulas
• removes the very small risk (0.5%) from uterine, cervical, and ovarian tumors On the negative side, spaying female dogs
• if done before 1 year of age, significantly increases the risk of osteosarcoma (bone cancer); this is a common cancer in larger breeds with a poor prognosis
• increases the risk of splenic hemangiosarcoma by a factor of 2.2 and cardiac hemangiosarcoma by a factor of >5; this is a common cancer and major cause of death in some breeds
• triples the risk of hypothyroidism
• increases the risk of obesity by a factor of 1.6-2, a common health problem in dogs with many associated health problems
• causes urinary “spay incontinence” in 4-20% of female dogs
• increases the risk of persistent or recurring urinary tract infections by a factor of 3-4
• increases the risk of recessed vulva, vaginal dermatitis, and vaginitis, especially for female dogs spayed before puberty
• doubles the small risk (<1%) of urinary tract tumors
• increases the risk of orthopedic disorders
• increases the risk of adverse reactions to vaccinations One thing is clear – much of the spay/neuter information that is available to the public is unbalanced and contains claims that are exaggerated or unsupported by evidence.

Rather than helping to educate pet owners, much of it has contributed to common misunderstandings about the health risks and benefits associated of spay/neuter in dogs. The traditional spay/neuter age of six months as well as the modern practice of pediatric spay/neuter appear to predispose dogs to health risks that could otherwise be avoided by waiting until the dog is physically mature, or perhaps in the case of many male dogs, foregoing it altogether unless medically necessary.

The balance of long-term health risks and benefits of spay/neuter will vary from one dog to the next. Breed, age, and gender are variables that must be taken into consideration in conjunction with non-medical factors for each individual dog. Across-the-board recommendations for all pet dogs do not appear to be supportable from findings in the veterinary medical literature.

SEE ENTIRE ARTICLE AT: http://www.naiaonline.org/pdfs/LongTermHealthEffectsOfSpayNeuterInDogs.pdf

Scared Dog? Aggressive? Biting?

Our approach and hope is to invite you to reflect. Instead of saying, "My dog is aggressive," we hope you will begin to say "I want to understand why my dog is doing that so I can change that behavior."

This program is all about setting you and your dog up for success, in a small, calm and focused supportive group. It is all about desensitizing and counter-conditioning your dog to their own personal “provoking stimuli.” This class is designed with safety first. With this in mind, the class is structured to be as safe as humanly possible. If your dog's limit is being 50 feet away, that’s where we will start!

Class size is limited to five dogs. Dogs are rotated in small, short sessions, allowing for greater success. The class gradually builds tolerance and acceptance of their fear. Class members offer each other support, since everyone understands what they are going through. A prerequisite for acceptance in this class is a Behavior Consultation — this MUST be completed before the first night of class. This class has on-going enrollment. Space is limited to 5 dogs.

Stop the leash pulling...stop the jumping....end the barking

Polite Greetings, Leash Walking and Too Much Barking: Thursday April 22, at 7:00-8:15pm. Does your dog's pulling or jumping embarrass you? Or maybe you just want your arm back in its socket and the scratches on your legs to heal. Whatever your reasons for teaching your dog not to jump up during greetings and to walk politely on leash, it's a great idea! Fee is $35. Limited to 5 students

How are your dog leash skills...are your counters safe...

Focus, Control and Recall EVERYTIME ™ and Counter Surfin: Saturday April 24 at 2:00-3:30pm. Learn to keep your dog’s focus, in any situation, including dog parks, around those pesky squirrels; learn Come When Called EVERYTIME ™and so much more. Fee is $40. Limited to 5 students.

On the Road Again

This jam packed one day class is Saturday April 10, 2010 at 3:00-5:00pm. This fun class provides the desired skills in order to handle your dog in public. Class participants will practice skills in several different locations in the community. Fee is $60 RSVP! Please

Preparing a dog for a new baby

Preparations for introducing your dog to a new baby should begin several weeks before the baby's actual arrival. It is important that your dog be well trained. He should at least know how to sit, stay, not jump up, and come when called. The main reason for training is to establish your leadership so that he/she will trust you not to abandon him/her when this new creature arrives and the bond will be strong enough for him/her to continue to obey your commands.


The first thing to do prior to baby's arrival is to get a doll. Sprinkle it with baby powder, wrap it in a blanket, cradle it, rock it, talk to it, and walk around the house with it. At the same time, praise your dog for not jumping up on you, by saying, "Good dog." Show the "doll baby" to your dog. Let him/her smell the baby. Give praise and food treats at the same time.

Next, get a recording of a crying baby and play it softly at first. Praise your dog, while listening, and reinforce his quiet behavior with a food treat. Each day increase the volume and continue the praise and food treat. Continue to expose your dog to the smell of baby blankets and powder. Invite a friend with a baby to your house. Reinforce good behavior with praise while the baby is visiting.

On the day of arrival, it would be best for you to walk in without baby and greet the dog. Then, someone else brings in the baby. If you can trust your dog's behavior around babies at this time, let him/her see, smell, and touch the baby. Do not worry if he/she licks the baby. You can wash it off later. Besides, a dog's mouth has less bacteria than a human's!

If you act happy and relaxed while your dog is in the presence of the new baby, it should not take more than a few weeks for him/her to accept this new littermate. If you are nervous about your dog's intentions for a good reason such as growling, you may want to consider using a muzzle when baby and dog are together. It is best not to allow a dog unsupervised access to a new baby for awhile. Some dogs are unnerved by loud crying and flailing arms and legs. Be sure you know your dog is comfortable in all situations before allowing unattended access.

Some dogs will break housesoiling rules for a short time after baby's arrival. They think that if this new littermate creature can do it anywhere, so can they. To discourage this from happening, do not leave dirty diapers lying around.


You may not have the same feeling of devotion and love toward your dog after your baby arrives. Be prepared for this surprising change of attitude. Your dog is no longer your baby. The important thing to remember is to try and give him as much attention, playtime, and exercise as before.

Did Santa or Hanukkah Harry leave you a puppy

So you have a puppy NOW WHAT!!!

"He won't stop whining."
"She chews everything in sight."
"He won't come when he's called."
"She scares the kids when she jumps and nips."
"He doesn't want to be cuddled."
"She's the cutest puppy, but ..."

There are visions of a furry, kissing, fun and frolicy, playing puppy in our heads when we decide to bring a puppy into the family, but those visions can deteriorate into frustration for those who are unprepared for the potential difficulties of puppy training and adjustment to family life.

Relax. First of all, these days do pass, often with lightning quickness. Second, puppies really are pretty easy to deal with - a couple of square meals, several trips outside, and lots of playtime balanced with lots of sleeping are the general rule for the first few weeks at home.
Socialization is important, but it needn't be a chore.

There's no doubt that the first few weeks with a new puppy can be exasperating. Much like having a newborn human baby. That tiny bundle of fur that was soooo friendly at the breeder's home, the kennel, the pet store, or the animal shelter has some behaviors that drive people crazy.

There's chewing, biting, jumping, and oh yeah, the whining and barking! While all normal for dogs, what matters is that the housetraining go smoothly and relatively quickly, that the nipping of children be held to a minimum, and that chewing on furniture and clothing be stopped or prevented.

It's important to remember that puppies are always learning about their environment and their people. Most puppies are housetrained by four months of age, but it may take supreme diligence on the part of owners to prevent accidents until that time.

The first 16 weeks of a puppy's life are critical in determining how he/she will fit into the family. Early socialization is important from the day you get the puppy home. Your puppy needs to experience the world to be sure they become the dog you dream of. All socialization experiences should be fun, positive and a memorable experience for your young dog. This is best done with treats. For example, when your pup meets new people, have the pup sit and then you give a treat for good manners. Food is a great memory maker for dogs.

Fun is the key

Puppy training and socialization should be fun for both owner and dog. Puppies can be taught to sit, lie down, and come for rewards. Even eight-week-old puppies can sit for their dinner or treats and lie down to be groomed. Puppies that resist can be taught with persistence and consistency on the part of all family members. It does no good if Mom requires puppy to sit before meals if Dad doesn't follow through or if Susie slips Fluffy a bit of bacon from her breakfast plate.


Puppies and holidays …

• be sure to provide him/her with a crate to serve as a safe place. It should be away from any hustle and bustle and food temptations.

• stick to puppy food for the newcomer; table food, especially rich table food, is likely to upset his/her stomach.

• keep him away from the Christmas tree or other holiday items so he/she can't break or steal ornaments, burn his nose on the lights, nibble on garlands, or tear through gift packages.

• make sure he/she gets outside to relieve himself in a timely fashion. Set an alarm if you need a reminder. Remember a puppy can hold their bladder for 1 hour for each month of age. (i.e. 8 weeks old (2 months) can hold it for 2 hours)

• keep house plants out of reach
• don't leave perishables on the coffee table.
• don't let him/her get over-excited.
• don't let over-excited children give him grief.

The more the merrier….adding a second dog to your family!

Most dogs will enjoy having a canine companion in the home. Here are some suggestions for making the introduction of a new dog a smooth process.

When choosing a new dog, try to match your dog's personality and temperament, and most importantly, play style as well as your family's lifestyle. If your resident dog is a lap dog, he/she might not welcome an active terrier or herding breed. For example, a couch potato type dog is not the best match for a very active dog or household.

• All dogs should have basic manners, for harmony as much as safety, but this will be more important when bringing in a second dog. If your dog needs a refresher course, do that first. Training is also a good way to bond with your new dog. A great relationship builder is working with both dogs to teach manners together.
  


• If your dog has any behavioral problems, you should resolve those before bringing in a second dog. If your dog isn't completely housetrained or barks all the time, you'll soon have two dogs with that problem. There are a few exceptions, such as a dog suffering from separation anxiety from being alone for the first time in its life. This dog may actually do better if you bring in a second dog.
  


• Give both dogs some exercise (separately) before the introduction, so that they will be a bit tired and more relaxed.
  


• Introduce the dogs on neutral territory – in a park, for example – not in your home. This is very important. If you bring the new dog directly into your home, your dog may feel that his or her territory is threatened, and may react defensively or aggressively. Take them for a walk, having them walk side by side, not one in front of the other.
  


• Keep both dogs on a leash, even if they are in an enclosed space, to give you control if one becomes aggressive. (You hold the resident dog's leash – have a friend hold the other.)
  Keep a positive attitude and speak calmly. Avoid high-pitched, rapid-fire "reassuring" words and anxious petting, which we construe as calming, but dogs hear – rightly so - as anxiety-ridden.
  


• Make the experience pleasant – give treats, such as bits of deli chicken or hot dog. Be careful, however, only to reward good behavior. Do not use treats to distract from a problem, and be sure you are not inadvertently rewarding aggression or bad behavior. If both dogs sit without growling, give a treat - within three seconds. Timing, and an immediate connection to the good behavior, is crucial to make the dog remember and understand what behavior is desired and is being rewarded.
  


• Remember that dogs are hierarchical. One will be dominant. This is usually the resident dog, but if it is not, do not try to reverse the order they establish because you feel sorry for your dog – that will simply prolong the conflict. A submissive dog is not an unhappy dog – some dogs greatly prefer to let someone else (human or canine) be in charge.
  


• If the dogs get into a minor tussle, as long as neither one is getting injured, do not interfere. (If you break up the conflict too soon, they may bring more of the unresolved tension to the next encounter.) Simply walk in opposites directions to separate the dogs. STAY CALM!
  


• Accidents do happen--do not worry, yell, or punish. Simply clean it up and move on. Be sure to give both dogs extra opportunities to relieve themselves outside until he/she becomes accustomed to your routine and schedule. If either dog starts to urinate or mark inside the house, consider consulting a Trainer/Behaviorist.
  


• Be sure to give your resident dog the same amount of affection he received in the past. Don't give him a reason to be jealous. If he got a walk or a play session at a particular time of day, be sure to continue that. The less the routine is disrupted, the easier this will be.
  


• If your resident dog is crate-trained, it is best to start that with the new dog immediately. Remember that dogs are den animals – properly crating a dog (correct size, reasonable amounts of time, etc.) is not cruel and may help the dog feel safe and secure. Some dogs prefer solid crates to wire; if you only have wire, put a sheet or towel over the wire crate (but be sure to allow air circulation).
  
  
• Each dog should have his own food and water dishes. Leave some space between the new dog's bowls and the resident's bowls. Food can be one of the most competitive areas for dogs – feed them separately if you have any doubts about their relationship.
  


• Don't overwhelm the new dog with visitors, particularly if he/she is a puppy, during the first days in your home. Remember that change is stressful – allow the dog some quiet time.
  Within a few days, the dogs should be getting along nicely, happy to have each other as a friend and pack member.
  

Additional Reading:

• Second Hand Dog, by Carol Lea Benjamin.
  


• The Other End of the Leash, by Patricia McConnell, Ph.D. (2002) with positive training methods; how to use human and dog body language to help your dog understand what you want the dog to do. Also a good read.
  


• Excel-Erated Learning: Explaining in Plain English How Dogs Learn and How Best to Teach Them, by Pamela Reid.