The Animal Welfare League of Alexandria
It is very important to keep loved ones close during these uncertain times—including the four-legged members of our families. The Humane Society of the United States, American Humane Association, American Society for the Protection of Animals, and National Animal Control Association urge military families to work hard to keep pets in the family and resist relinquishing these beloved pets to shelters.
If you are in the military, it's important to make prior arrangements for your pets in case you are deployed. If at all possible, arrange for family or friends to care for your pet. When leaving your pet with family or friends, it's a good idea to create a foster care agreement. Having a written agreement will help protect your pet and provide you with the security of knowing your chosen caretaker has the legal right to care for your pet in your absence.
In addition to the agreement, The HSUS has developed a checklist for military pet owners covering things to take care of when leaving their pet with family and friends. And be sure to complete a cat personality profile or a dog personality profile to help your temporary caregiver understand your pet's needs.
If you are unable to arrange care for your pet and need assistance, contact your local animal shelter or breed-placement group. In addition, if you or your pet's caregivers are having trouble affording veterinary care, food, or other supplies, please contact your local animal shelter to see if it has an assistance program.
Taking these simple steps will help ensure that your best friend is properly cared for while you're away. For more information, follow the links below. You can also view our brochure, Caring for Your Pet When You Are Called to Duty—download from HSUS.org
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Hiking with your dog
I am posting this infomation from Gail Fisher, I feel it is an important piece of information. I want to thank you for her information and sharing this reader's experience for all of us to be warned. Thank you! So helpful for all of us who visit off leash areas, dog parks or hiking, etc.
The Critter Exchange
By: Gail T. Fisher
Many dog owners want to take the dog along when they’re out in nature, taking a hike. There are three important things to keep in mind about hiking with your dog: Your dog, other hikers, and other dogs on the trail.
A reader writes: “Hi Gail, Recently I was hiking with my year-old black Lab on trails that are mostly deserted on weekdays. I bring a lead, but often let her run free, as she always comes when called. She is very friendly and adores people.
Twice recently, my dog met people hiking. As soon as they saw her, they acted aggressively, stomping their feet, waving their arms, and shouting, "Go away!!" or "Go Home!" The first time was a man and a woman. The second was a woman with two children. She told the children, "Yell real loud at the dog and stamp your feet the way we were told!" They all shouted at the top of their lungs and stomped their feet at my poor, who usually gets friendly pats from people. Understandably confused, she backed up and barked. She has never barked at anyone on or off the trails before.
I have heard of taking an aggressive approach with black bears, but are hikers being taught to do this to dogs? Is it supposed to work, or would most dogs react the way mine did - confused and defensive? This doesn't seem right to me. I am sure that if someone is steering people in the wrong direction, your column could do a great service by steering them right. Thanks for your time.”
I can’t believe someone is actually recommending this approach for dealing with unfamiliar dogs. Such offensive behavior could well provoke even a friendly dog to attack.
How different temperament dogs react
Dogs react in one of four ways when they see a stranger. Friendly dogs like the reader’s Lab, approach with affable intentions. An aloof dog ignores strangers. A fearful dog will avoid people. Finally, and least likely, is an aggressive dog – one that might attack if provoked. On a path in the woods where the dog can avoid the stranger, such an attack is unlikely.
Screaming, arm waving, yelling and stomping provokes different responses in each of these dogs. The friendly dog reacts as the reader’s adolescent did – confused, apprehensive, perhaps self-protective and defensive (backing up and barking). His experience is that people are usually nice – but these strangers are not. If this happens repeatedly, the friendly dog becomes mistrustful, developing one of the other three reactions.
The aloof dog might feel threatened by such aberrant behavior. If he is unable to ignore them, he might react aggressively. The fearful dog will run away. But with the aggressive dog, the hikers own behavior will cause precisely what they fear: the dog will feel threatened and is likely to attack. Whatever the dog’s temperament, hikers should never behave this way.
How to react to an unknown dog
It is natural for a frightened person, especially a child, to scream, wave their arms and run away, when frightened of a dog, but this is absolutely the wrong thing to do. Such behavior is far more likely to provoke an attack than standing still, pretending to “be a tree.”
Standing still rarely results in any behavior other than perhaps curious sniffing. And once the dog has investigated the person, it will likely move on.
On their website, the HSUS recommends: “When approached by a dog you don’t know, don’t run or scream. Instead, stand still with your hands at your sides and do not make direct eye contact with or speak to the dog. Teach children to ‘be a tree’ until a dog goes away and practice with a stuffed toy dog.”
The SPCA website says: “Do not try to outrun an attacking dog or use defense mechanisms such as kicking or screaming.....Stand still and present the side - not the front - of your body to the dog. It's a smaller target.”
Even more important than being a “smaller target,” standing sideways is less threatening than facing a dog straight on. Facing directly toward an unfamiliar dog might be interpreted as a challenge or threat.
Observe two unfamiliar dogs move toward each other, and you’ll see them curve as they approach. Then they stand sideways as they get acquainted – body posture that says, “I mean you no harm.”
Dog owner’s responsibility
Another issue when hiking is our responsibility as dog owners both to our dogs, and to the other hikers. Not everyone loves dogs, and some people are terrified of them. Hikers have a right to walk trails without fear of a dog – even a friendly adolescent Labrador retriever.
So owners have a responsibility to keep dogs under control either leashed or always in sight, and trained to come when called. Don’t let them to approach strangers unless the hiker says it’s OK for your dog to approach. This creates an environment where everyone – dog hater, dog lover and dog – can share the trail.
And finally – don’t forget your dog. I got the following note from a friend:
Hi Gail, “As you know, I work at the Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Center in Campton and give a lot of hiking advice. We often have people wanting to hike with a dog. I tell them that the dog should be leashed or kept very close, the hiker keeping a sharp eye on them. Even the best-trained dog can stray, get interested in something or get spooked by a bear etc. Every week someone posts a sign for a dog lost on some trail in the forest.
The other problem is unprepared hikers. Last May, a group of young hikers was planning to hike one of the hardest trails – a nine-hour hike for the best hiker. They had an eight-month-old Rottie puppy. I tried to tell them that this was too difficult a hike for a puppy, even if they walk with him every day. Hiking the White Mountains is not like a stroll in the park. One group this summer got to the top of a 4000 ft peak with a dog and couldn't get down. They had no water, (and no brains). Thanks for letting me vent.”
This note says it all! How sad for a beautiful day hike to turn tragic by losing your dog. And force-marching a puppy or dog is cruel. A walk in the country may seem like a fun day for your dog, but unless the dog is conditioned for strenuous exercise, it is inhumane to force him to hike mountain trails for hours on end. Strained muscles, bloody feet, and exhaustion are the milder dangers. Heat stroke (even in cool weather) and collapse are real possibilities.
Carry ample water, a bowl, food if you’re camping out, and first aid treatment such as bandage material for cut pads and feet. If your dog is strong enough and has been properly conditioned to it, he can carry his own supplies in a dog backpack. Never allow a dog to run free in the backpack, and don’t overload him.
We always hope that people will use common sense. Sadly, many don’t. Listening to people in the know, like my friend in Campton, can prevent tragedies.
The Critter Exchange
By: Gail T. Fisher
Many dog owners want to take the dog along when they’re out in nature, taking a hike. There are three important things to keep in mind about hiking with your dog: Your dog, other hikers, and other dogs on the trail.
A reader writes: “Hi Gail, Recently I was hiking with my year-old black Lab on trails that are mostly deserted on weekdays. I bring a lead, but often let her run free, as she always comes when called. She is very friendly and adores people.
Twice recently, my dog met people hiking. As soon as they saw her, they acted aggressively, stomping their feet, waving their arms, and shouting, "Go away!!" or "Go Home!" The first time was a man and a woman. The second was a woman with two children. She told the children, "Yell real loud at the dog and stamp your feet the way we were told!" They all shouted at the top of their lungs and stomped their feet at my poor, who usually gets friendly pats from people. Understandably confused, she backed up and barked. She has never barked at anyone on or off the trails before.
I have heard of taking an aggressive approach with black bears, but are hikers being taught to do this to dogs? Is it supposed to work, or would most dogs react the way mine did - confused and defensive? This doesn't seem right to me. I am sure that if someone is steering people in the wrong direction, your column could do a great service by steering them right. Thanks for your time.”
I can’t believe someone is actually recommending this approach for dealing with unfamiliar dogs. Such offensive behavior could well provoke even a friendly dog to attack.
How different temperament dogs react
Dogs react in one of four ways when they see a stranger. Friendly dogs like the reader’s Lab, approach with affable intentions. An aloof dog ignores strangers. A fearful dog will avoid people. Finally, and least likely, is an aggressive dog – one that might attack if provoked. On a path in the woods where the dog can avoid the stranger, such an attack is unlikely.
Screaming, arm waving, yelling and stomping provokes different responses in each of these dogs. The friendly dog reacts as the reader’s adolescent did – confused, apprehensive, perhaps self-protective and defensive (backing up and barking). His experience is that people are usually nice – but these strangers are not. If this happens repeatedly, the friendly dog becomes mistrustful, developing one of the other three reactions.
The aloof dog might feel threatened by such aberrant behavior. If he is unable to ignore them, he might react aggressively. The fearful dog will run away. But with the aggressive dog, the hikers own behavior will cause precisely what they fear: the dog will feel threatened and is likely to attack. Whatever the dog’s temperament, hikers should never behave this way.
How to react to an unknown dog
It is natural for a frightened person, especially a child, to scream, wave their arms and run away, when frightened of a dog, but this is absolutely the wrong thing to do. Such behavior is far more likely to provoke an attack than standing still, pretending to “be a tree.”
Standing still rarely results in any behavior other than perhaps curious sniffing. And once the dog has investigated the person, it will likely move on.
On their website, the HSUS recommends: “When approached by a dog you don’t know, don’t run or scream. Instead, stand still with your hands at your sides and do not make direct eye contact with or speak to the dog. Teach children to ‘be a tree’ until a dog goes away and practice with a stuffed toy dog.”
The SPCA website says: “Do not try to outrun an attacking dog or use defense mechanisms such as kicking or screaming.....Stand still and present the side - not the front - of your body to the dog. It's a smaller target.”
Even more important than being a “smaller target,” standing sideways is less threatening than facing a dog straight on. Facing directly toward an unfamiliar dog might be interpreted as a challenge or threat.
Observe two unfamiliar dogs move toward each other, and you’ll see them curve as they approach. Then they stand sideways as they get acquainted – body posture that says, “I mean you no harm.”
Dog owner’s responsibility
Another issue when hiking is our responsibility as dog owners both to our dogs, and to the other hikers. Not everyone loves dogs, and some people are terrified of them. Hikers have a right to walk trails without fear of a dog – even a friendly adolescent Labrador retriever.
So owners have a responsibility to keep dogs under control either leashed or always in sight, and trained to come when called. Don’t let them to approach strangers unless the hiker says it’s OK for your dog to approach. This creates an environment where everyone – dog hater, dog lover and dog – can share the trail.
And finally – don’t forget your dog. I got the following note from a friend:
Hi Gail, “As you know, I work at the Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Center in Campton and give a lot of hiking advice. We often have people wanting to hike with a dog. I tell them that the dog should be leashed or kept very close, the hiker keeping a sharp eye on them. Even the best-trained dog can stray, get interested in something or get spooked by a bear etc. Every week someone posts a sign for a dog lost on some trail in the forest.
The other problem is unprepared hikers. Last May, a group of young hikers was planning to hike one of the hardest trails – a nine-hour hike for the best hiker. They had an eight-month-old Rottie puppy. I tried to tell them that this was too difficult a hike for a puppy, even if they walk with him every day. Hiking the White Mountains is not like a stroll in the park. One group this summer got to the top of a 4000 ft peak with a dog and couldn't get down. They had no water, (and no brains). Thanks for letting me vent.”
This note says it all! How sad for a beautiful day hike to turn tragic by losing your dog. And force-marching a puppy or dog is cruel. A walk in the country may seem like a fun day for your dog, but unless the dog is conditioned for strenuous exercise, it is inhumane to force him to hike mountain trails for hours on end. Strained muscles, bloody feet, and exhaustion are the milder dangers. Heat stroke (even in cool weather) and collapse are real possibilities.
Carry ample water, a bowl, food if you’re camping out, and first aid treatment such as bandage material for cut pads and feet. If your dog is strong enough and has been properly conditioned to it, he can carry his own supplies in a dog backpack. Never allow a dog to run free in the backpack, and don’t overload him.
We always hope that people will use common sense. Sadly, many don’t. Listening to people in the know, like my friend in Campton, can prevent tragedies.
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Dog Park and other off leash area
First, I would like to say--an off leash dog park, an area with lots of dogs on or off leash, is not the way to socialize scared, reactive, fearful unsocialized dogs or dogs who have been aggressive with people or dogs!!!! Seek help from an experienced trainer!
New users:
Your first visit should be without your dog.
The next visit should be to an off leash area at non-peak times. Peak times are after work on Monday-Friday and midday and the evening hours and all times on weekends.
The first visit can be somewhat stressful for both you and your dog. You may be unsure about how your dog will behave. Your dog, if not well socialized, may be worried by the presence of other dogs and people. Stress and anxiety could ruin the experience for you and your dog(s), so try to keep those initial visits short and happy.
Practical rules for off-leash areas:
1. Pick up Poop! Always! Everywhere!
Yes, even in the long grass and the woods, and especially near paths or water. Deposit poop in trash barrels. If no barrels, take it with you.
Show some respect! Don't leave your dog's mess for others to step in, look at, or clean up. This area is not maintained by tax-supported city workers. It's your job to keep it clean. Thousands of dogs use this area, and poop accumulates faster than it degrades.
Also, some dogs EAT poop - don't add to the misery of their owners!
Poop run-off pollutes our ponds, lakes and streams with nutrients.
POOP KILLS public opinion and undermines the reputation of all dog owners.
2. Keep your dog leashed until you are within the off-leash boundary. Be sure to be a distance from the parking areas.
If you choose to keep your dog on or off leash please remember: A leashed dog often feels threatened when other dogs approach them. They may bark, growl, or even lunge to ward off perceived threats, triggering a similar response in other dogs. This is why people who walk their dogs on-leash are often afraid of off-leash dogs, so please respect the off-leash boundary. This is also why it can be difficult to control your leashed dog when passing other dogs in the parking lot or on the access paths. Keep as much distance as you can from the other dogs. You may even step aside and wait until another dog passes. Try to focus your dog's attention on you rather than the other dog. Move quickly and calmly past the dog. Once your leashed dog no longer has eye contact with the passing dog, your dog should calm down.
If you do not have a reliable recall (come when called) DO NOT LET YOUR DOG OFF LEASH. Instead, use a long training line ( a leash 10 feet or more--NOT FLEXI) attached to the dog's collar (it's much easier to catch them). Drop the line and let the dog run freely. Periodically call your dog by name only, do not use the word come, again just their name. Once they come to you, say good come and give a tasty treat and release them again. Your dog should suddenly become more interested in following you than in running away or ignoring you. Praise and reward your dog when it comes to you. Repeat this exercise each time you visit the site. ALWAYS reward a success!
4. Keep walking! Avoid the temptation to congregate at the entrance.
Walking helps the dogs perceive the site as neutral territory, which minimizes turf battles and other canine misunderstandings. Remember that all dogs have a natural instinct to defend their space, and some dogs have a stronger instinct than others do. If you have one of those "friendly" dogs, try not to let it run up and greet an unfamiliar dog. From a dog's point of view, especially shy dogs or well-trained dogs, this kind of behavior can be seen as rude or threatening. That "friendly" dog may provoke a natural correction response from the other dog. Keep your groups small and keep walking!
5. Supervise your dog at all times.
KNOW YOUR DOG. Avoid situations that are likely to cause problems for your dog or other dogs. Be willing to work with other dog owners to prevent incidents. Leash and leave the site if your dog is having a bad day or is showing signs of unacceptable behavior.
Understand that dogs have different temperaments and play styles. Some dogs are aloof and don't like to play, some seem quite rough in their play, some are party animals and will attempt to provoke a chase by nipping or barking. Educate yourself on dog behavior, observe your dog's response to situations, and ask questions. A behavior that concerns you may simply be a more rambunctious play style or an invitation to chase. On the other hand, owners of rambunctious dogs must be sensitive to the needs of shy dogs and be ready to move to other parts of the site to prevent incidents.
Beware of breaking up dogfights. Do NOT reach in to pull the dogs apart. A good approach is to carry a water bottle and squirt water in the dogs' faces to distract them. Once the dogs are distracted, you can separate the dogs more safely.
6. Supervise children closely.
Keep your child close and do not allow running, screaming or biking.
Many dogs were not raised with children. A child who screams or runs can trigger a dog's prey instincts (chasing or biting).
Do not give your child treats to pass out to strange dogs. Treats can create competition between dogs and your child might be caught in the middle.
Do not allow your child to approach strange dogs without permission from the owner. Many dogs have little experience with children. A strange dog could feel challenged by a child's overly friendly approach and may snap or growl.
7. Keep the area safe and clean.
8. Take responsibility for the actions of your dog.
Remember, by law, you are liable for damage and injuries inflicted by your dog. Offer to pay for vet bills, doctor bills and replace damaged property. Involved persons should exchange names and phone numbers. Report serious incidents by calling 911 if necessary.
9. Be a responsible dog owner.
Keep licenses and vaccinations up to date.
Spay or neuter your dog.
Train your dog in basic obedience.
Educate yourself about dog behavior (many books, magazines and websites are available).
The scoop on poop
Many people believe that disposing poop in the trash is environmentally irresponsible. In fact, it's the dog poop left on the ground that poses the greater environmental threat. We all know that poop is "fertilizer," but we may not all realize that these nutrients flow directly, or via storm sewers, to our lakes, ponds and streams. Leaving poop near water, on sloped ground, or on paved surfaces is irresponsible and the real consequence is water pollution!
Other people believe that it's OK to let the poop biodegrade "as nature intended." However, biodegradation is a slow process, especially when the weather is cold. With the large number of dogs using off-leash areas, poop accumulates faster than it degrades. The accumulation exposes our pets to harmful parasites and our shoes, cars and homes to unpleasant dog poop contamination (do you know what your dog is stepping in?). Also, there are some dogs that EAT poop. Please don't add to their diet!
Few people realize that the most important reason to pick up poop is to help reform our reputation with the general public. Abandoned poop piles foster the notion that dog owners are rude and irresponsible, and that dogs are a public nuisance. Indeed, we cannot defend a dog owner who lets their dog poop in a public space (or in somebody's yard) and then leaves the mess for others to smell, look at, step in or clean up. Like it or not, off-leash recreation is a controversial issue for local governments and there is a strong anti-dog sentiment that persists in the political process. Dog poop tops the list of complaints about dogs, far exceeding concerns about dog aggression and public safety. POOP KILLS public opinion! And public opinion is what matters most in efforts to obtain recreational space that we can enjoy with our dogs.
Please understand that these off-leash areas are maintained entirely by the goodwill of site users, not by tax-supported public servants. Your action sets an example, good or bad, for others who use these areas. There may be a time that you find yourself without a bag or simply miss seeing your dog "do its business." Please pick up a stray poop pile to offset that pile that someone else picks up for YOU! Better yet, carry extra bags to offer would-be offenders or pick up a few stray piles along the path. It's everyone's job to help keep our site clean.
Be part of the solution, not part of the problem.
New users:
Your first visit should be without your dog.
The next visit should be to an off leash area at non-peak times. Peak times are after work on Monday-Friday and midday and the evening hours and all times on weekends.
The first visit can be somewhat stressful for both you and your dog. You may be unsure about how your dog will behave. Your dog, if not well socialized, may be worried by the presence of other dogs and people. Stress and anxiety could ruin the experience for you and your dog(s), so try to keep those initial visits short and happy.
Practical rules for off-leash areas:
1. Pick up Poop! Always! Everywhere!
Yes, even in the long grass and the woods, and especially near paths or water. Deposit poop in trash barrels. If no barrels, take it with you.
Show some respect! Don't leave your dog's mess for others to step in, look at, or clean up. This area is not maintained by tax-supported city workers. It's your job to keep it clean. Thousands of dogs use this area, and poop accumulates faster than it degrades.
Also, some dogs EAT poop - don't add to the misery of their owners!
Poop run-off pollutes our ponds, lakes and streams with nutrients.
POOP KILLS public opinion and undermines the reputation of all dog owners.
2. Keep your dog leashed until you are within the off-leash boundary. Be sure to be a distance from the parking areas.
If you choose to keep your dog on or off leash please remember: A leashed dog often feels threatened when other dogs approach them. They may bark, growl, or even lunge to ward off perceived threats, triggering a similar response in other dogs. This is why people who walk their dogs on-leash are often afraid of off-leash dogs, so please respect the off-leash boundary. This is also why it can be difficult to control your leashed dog when passing other dogs in the parking lot or on the access paths. Keep as much distance as you can from the other dogs. You may even step aside and wait until another dog passes. Try to focus your dog's attention on you rather than the other dog. Move quickly and calmly past the dog. Once your leashed dog no longer has eye contact with the passing dog, your dog should calm down.
If you do not have a reliable recall (come when called) DO NOT LET YOUR DOG OFF LEASH. Instead, use a long training line ( a leash 10 feet or more--NOT FLEXI) attached to the dog's collar (it's much easier to catch them). Drop the line and let the dog run freely. Periodically call your dog by name only, do not use the word come, again just their name. Once they come to you, say good come and give a tasty treat and release them again. Your dog should suddenly become more interested in following you than in running away or ignoring you. Praise and reward your dog when it comes to you. Repeat this exercise each time you visit the site. ALWAYS reward a success!
4. Keep walking! Avoid the temptation to congregate at the entrance.
Walking helps the dogs perceive the site as neutral territory, which minimizes turf battles and other canine misunderstandings. Remember that all dogs have a natural instinct to defend their space, and some dogs have a stronger instinct than others do. If you have one of those "friendly" dogs, try not to let it run up and greet an unfamiliar dog. From a dog's point of view, especially shy dogs or well-trained dogs, this kind of behavior can be seen as rude or threatening. That "friendly" dog may provoke a natural correction response from the other dog. Keep your groups small and keep walking!
5. Supervise your dog at all times.
KNOW YOUR DOG. Avoid situations that are likely to cause problems for your dog or other dogs. Be willing to work with other dog owners to prevent incidents. Leash and leave the site if your dog is having a bad day or is showing signs of unacceptable behavior.
Understand that dogs have different temperaments and play styles. Some dogs are aloof and don't like to play, some seem quite rough in their play, some are party animals and will attempt to provoke a chase by nipping or barking. Educate yourself on dog behavior, observe your dog's response to situations, and ask questions. A behavior that concerns you may simply be a more rambunctious play style or an invitation to chase. On the other hand, owners of rambunctious dogs must be sensitive to the needs of shy dogs and be ready to move to other parts of the site to prevent incidents.
Beware of breaking up dogfights. Do NOT reach in to pull the dogs apart. A good approach is to carry a water bottle and squirt water in the dogs' faces to distract them. Once the dogs are distracted, you can separate the dogs more safely.
6. Supervise children closely.
Keep your child close and do not allow running, screaming or biking.
Many dogs were not raised with children. A child who screams or runs can trigger a dog's prey instincts (chasing or biting).
Do not give your child treats to pass out to strange dogs. Treats can create competition between dogs and your child might be caught in the middle.
Do not allow your child to approach strange dogs without permission from the owner. Many dogs have little experience with children. A strange dog could feel challenged by a child's overly friendly approach and may snap or growl.
7. Keep the area safe and clean.
8. Take responsibility for the actions of your dog.
Remember, by law, you are liable for damage and injuries inflicted by your dog. Offer to pay for vet bills, doctor bills and replace damaged property. Involved persons should exchange names and phone numbers. Report serious incidents by calling 911 if necessary.
9. Be a responsible dog owner.
Keep licenses and vaccinations up to date.
Spay or neuter your dog.
Train your dog in basic obedience.
Educate yourself about dog behavior (many books, magazines and websites are available).
The scoop on poop
Many people believe that disposing poop in the trash is environmentally irresponsible. In fact, it's the dog poop left on the ground that poses the greater environmental threat. We all know that poop is "fertilizer," but we may not all realize that these nutrients flow directly, or via storm sewers, to our lakes, ponds and streams. Leaving poop near water, on sloped ground, or on paved surfaces is irresponsible and the real consequence is water pollution!
Other people believe that it's OK to let the poop biodegrade "as nature intended." However, biodegradation is a slow process, especially when the weather is cold. With the large number of dogs using off-leash areas, poop accumulates faster than it degrades. The accumulation exposes our pets to harmful parasites and our shoes, cars and homes to unpleasant dog poop contamination (do you know what your dog is stepping in?). Also, there are some dogs that EAT poop. Please don't add to their diet!
Few people realize that the most important reason to pick up poop is to help reform our reputation with the general public. Abandoned poop piles foster the notion that dog owners are rude and irresponsible, and that dogs are a public nuisance. Indeed, we cannot defend a dog owner who lets their dog poop in a public space (or in somebody's yard) and then leaves the mess for others to smell, look at, step in or clean up. Like it or not, off-leash recreation is a controversial issue for local governments and there is a strong anti-dog sentiment that persists in the political process. Dog poop tops the list of complaints about dogs, far exceeding concerns about dog aggression and public safety. POOP KILLS public opinion! And public opinion is what matters most in efforts to obtain recreational space that we can enjoy with our dogs.
Please understand that these off-leash areas are maintained entirely by the goodwill of site users, not by tax-supported public servants. Your action sets an example, good or bad, for others who use these areas. There may be a time that you find yourself without a bag or simply miss seeing your dog "do its business." Please pick up a stray poop pile to offset that pile that someone else picks up for YOU! Better yet, carry extra bags to offer would-be offenders or pick up a few stray piles along the path. It's everyone's job to help keep our site clean.
Be part of the solution, not part of the problem.
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Chocolate Poisoning in Dogs- Chocolate Toxicity in Dogs
Chocolate Poisoning in Dogs
Chocolate Toxicity in Dogs
Chocolate Toxicity in Dogs
from PetMD
Dogs, especially puppies, are known for eating things when they are not supposed to. This can be a dangerous combination when there is chocolate around the house. Also, dogs have an excellent sense of smell, making it fairly easy to find any secret hiding spots for the chocolate.
Chocolate is derived from the roasted seeds of Theobroma cacao, which contains certain properties that can be toxic to animals: caffeine and theobromine. If ingested, these two ingredients can also lead to various medical complications and may even prove fatal for your pet.
If you would like to learn how chocolate poisoning affects cats, please visit this page in the PetMD Health Library.
Symptoms and Types
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Increased body temperature
• Increased reflex responses
• Muscle rigidity
• Rapid breathing
• Increased heart rate
• Low blood pressure
• Seizures
• Advanced signs (cardiac failure, weakness, and coma)
The amount and type of chocolate ingested is also important, as they are determining factors for the severity of the toxicity. The three types of chocolate that you must be aware of are:
1. Milk Chocolate – Mild signs of toxicity can occur when 0.7 ounces per pound of body weight is ingested; severe toxicity occurs when two ounces per pound of body weight is ingested (or as little as one pound of milk chocolate for a 20-pound dog).
2. Semi-Sweet Chocolate – Mild signs of toxicity can occur when 0.3 ounce per pound of body weight is ingested; severe toxicity occurs when one ounce per pound of body weight is ingested (or as little as six ounces of semi-sweet chocolate for a 20-pound dog).
3. Baking Chocolate – This type of chocolate has the highest concentration of caffeine and theobromine. Therefore, as little as two small one-ounce squares of baking chocolate can be toxic to a 20-pound dog (or 0.3 ounce per pound of body weight).
Causes
In the right quantities chocolate can become toxic for any dog. So be wary of feeding your pet anything that might contain chocolate and always keep it out of reach.
Diagnosis
Your veterinarian will perform a complete physical exam, including a chemical blood profile, electrolyte panel and a urinalysis. These tests will help determine if there is a chocolate/caffeine overdose.
Blood can also be taken to test for theobromine concentrations, while an ECG is performed to help determine if the heart is showing any abnormalities in rhythm or conduction of heart beats.
Treatment
The pet should be seen immediately by your veterinarian, keeping it cool, calm, and in a quiet place. It is common practice to induce the dog to vomit and control any seizures, should they occur.
Fluids will be given to keep your pet hydrated as its condition improves. To avoid any further problems, it should be fed a bland diet for several days.
Prevention
It is crucial to your pet’s health to keep chocolate products out of their reach, as there is no antidote to chocolate toxicity.
Dogs, especially puppies, are known for eating things when they are not supposed to. This can be a dangerous combination when there is chocolate around the house. Also, dogs have an excellent sense of smell, making it fairly easy to find any secret hiding spots for the chocolate.
Chocolate is derived from the roasted seeds of Theobroma cacao, which contains certain properties that can be toxic to animals: caffeine and theobromine. If ingested, these two ingredients can also lead to various medical complications and may even prove fatal for your pet.
If you would like to learn how chocolate poisoning affects cats, please visit this page in the PetMD Health Library.
Symptoms and Types
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Increased body temperature
• Increased reflex responses
• Muscle rigidity
• Rapid breathing
• Increased heart rate
• Low blood pressure
• Seizures
• Advanced signs (cardiac failure, weakness, and coma)
The amount and type of chocolate ingested is also important, as they are determining factors for the severity of the toxicity. The three types of chocolate that you must be aware of are:
1. Milk Chocolate – Mild signs of toxicity can occur when 0.7 ounces per pound of body weight is ingested; severe toxicity occurs when two ounces per pound of body weight is ingested (or as little as one pound of milk chocolate for a 20-pound dog).
2. Semi-Sweet Chocolate – Mild signs of toxicity can occur when 0.3 ounce per pound of body weight is ingested; severe toxicity occurs when one ounce per pound of body weight is ingested (or as little as six ounces of semi-sweet chocolate for a 20-pound dog).
3. Baking Chocolate – This type of chocolate has the highest concentration of caffeine and theobromine. Therefore, as little as two small one-ounce squares of baking chocolate can be toxic to a 20-pound dog (or 0.3 ounce per pound of body weight).
Causes
In the right quantities chocolate can become toxic for any dog. So be wary of feeding your pet anything that might contain chocolate and always keep it out of reach.
Diagnosis
Your veterinarian will perform a complete physical exam, including a chemical blood profile, electrolyte panel and a urinalysis. These tests will help determine if there is a chocolate/caffeine overdose.
Blood can also be taken to test for theobromine concentrations, while an ECG is performed to help determine if the heart is showing any abnormalities in rhythm or conduction of heart beats.
Treatment
The pet should be seen immediately by your veterinarian, keeping it cool, calm, and in a quiet place. It is common practice to induce the dog to vomit and control any seizures, should they occur.
Fluids will be given to keep your pet hydrated as its condition improves. To avoid any further problems, it should be fed a bland diet for several days.
Prevention
It is crucial to your pet’s health to keep chocolate products out of their reach, as there is no antidote to chocolate toxicity.
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
Scared Dog? Aggressive? Biting?
Our approach and hope is to invite you to reflect. Instead of saying, "My dog is aggressive," we hope you will begin to say "I want to understand why my dog is doing that so I can change that behavior."
This program is all about setting you and your dog up for success, in a small, calm and focused supportive group. It is all about desensitizing and counter-conditioning your dog to their own personal “provoking stimuli.” This class is designed with safety first. With this in mind, the class is structured to be as safe as humanly possible. If your dog's limit is being 50 feet away, that’s where we will start!
Class size is limited to five dogs. Dogs are rotated in small, short sessions, allowing for greater success. The class gradually builds tolerance and acceptance of their fear. Class members offer each other support, since everyone understands what they are going through. A prerequisite for acceptance in this class is a Behavior Consultation — this MUST be completed before the first night of class. This class has on-going enrollment. Space is limited to 5 dogs.
This program is all about setting you and your dog up for success, in a small, calm and focused supportive group. It is all about desensitizing and counter-conditioning your dog to their own personal “provoking stimuli.” This class is designed with safety first. With this in mind, the class is structured to be as safe as humanly possible. If your dog's limit is being 50 feet away, that’s where we will start!
Class size is limited to five dogs. Dogs are rotated in small, short sessions, allowing for greater success. The class gradually builds tolerance and acceptance of their fear. Class members offer each other support, since everyone understands what they are going through. A prerequisite for acceptance in this class is a Behavior Consultation — this MUST be completed before the first night of class. This class has on-going enrollment. Space is limited to 5 dogs.
Saturday, April 3, 2010
Stop the leash pulling...stop the jumping....end the barking
Polite Greetings, Leash Walking and Too Much Barking: Thursday April 22, at 7:00-8:15pm. Does your dog's pulling or jumping embarrass you? Or maybe you just want your arm back in its socket and the scratches on your legs to heal. Whatever your reasons for teaching your dog not to jump up during greetings and to walk politely on leash, it's a great idea! Fee is $35. Limited to 5 students
Thursday, April 1, 2010
How are your dog leash skills...are your counters safe...
Focus, Control and Recall EVERYTIME ™ and Counter Surfin: Saturday April 24 at 2:00-3:30pm. Learn to keep your dog’s focus, in any situation, including dog parks, around those pesky squirrels; learn Come When Called EVERYTIME ™and so much more. Fee is $40. Limited to 5 students.
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