Social Dominance Is Not a Myth: Wolves, Dogs, and Other Animals

By Marc Bekoff on February 15, 2012 - 3:11pm

The concept of social dominance is not a myth. A myth is an invented story. The concept of dominance has been, and remains, a very important one that has been misunderstood and misused, often by those who haven't spent much time conducting detailed studies of other animals, including those living in the wild.

Dominance is a fact. Nonhuman (and human) animals dominate one another in a number of ways. Individuals may dominate or control (1) access to various resources including food, potential and actual mates, territory, resting and sleeping areas, and the location in a group that's most protected from predators; (2) the movements of others; or (3) the attention of others, an idea put forth by Michael Chance and Ray Larsen. Even if dominance interactions are rare, they do occur, and that is why it's important to log many hours observing known individuals. As one gets to know individuals in a group he or she also learns more and more about the subtle ways in which a wide variety of social messages are communicated, including those used in interactions in which one individual controls another.

Complicating the picture is the phenomenon of situational dominance. For example, a low ranking individual may be able to keep possession of food even when challenged by another individual who actively dominates him or her in other contexts. I've seen this in wild coyotes, dogs, other mammals, and various birds. In these cases possession is what counts. I've studied social, dare I say dominance relationships, in a wide variety of species, and any introductory textbook on animal behavior contains various definitions of dominance and many examples. Another complicating factor is that there's a lot of variation in the way in which dominance is expressed both within and between species.

What has happened over the past 30 or so years based on extensive comparative behavioral research is the discovery that dominance is not a simple or ubiquitous explanatory concept as some took it to be. For example, for many years it was assumed that dominant animals mated the most and controlled access to various resources. Now we know this isn't necessarily so in all species or even within different groups of the same species. Often, less dominant or subordinate animals are able to mate and can control others in different contexts.

So, is there much new under the umbrella of dominance? Yes and no. In 1981 renowned primatologist Irwin Bernstein published a most important essay on dominance in which he discussed all of the above and more. Bernstein and others since have convincingly argued that we need to be very cautious about throwing out the baby with the bathwater because the concept of dominance is useful despite newly discovered complexities and subtleties.

To be sure, ethologists have not called dominance a myth. Rather, they've noted that a univocal explanation of dominance, one relying on a single unambiguous meaning of what dominance is, is misleading and simplistic. An excellent discussion of dominance in various animals can be found here.

Dominance surely is a slippery concept with respect to how it's expressed and how individual variations in social dominance influence behavior. A narrow definition doesn't necessarily hold across species, within species, or across different contexts. Many discussions in which the broad concept of social dominance is criticized are very informative, but to claim that dominance is a myth flies in the face of what we know about the subtle, fleeting, and complex social relationships and on-going social dynamics of many group living species.

Note: Some of the critics of social dominance include those who study and/or train dogs and it was this essaythat got me revisiting the notion of dominance. In this essay the author writes, "Dr. David Mech, the world's leading expert on wolves, says that in 13 years of studying the wolves on Isle Royale in Michigan he never [my emphasis] saw any displays of dominance." When I read this I was (and remain) incredulous. In the limited time I've watched wild wolves in Yellowstone National Park I saw dominance displays on a number of occasions and other researchers also report these sorts of interactions.

Some of the critic's concerns are legitimate because we need to be very careful about generalizing from the behavior of wild and captive wolves (from whom dogs emerged) to the behavior of dogs. It's also important to realize that the misuse of the concept of dominance that results, for example, in a person violentlydominating a dog, is not a valid, respectful, or humane way to treat or to train our best friends.

Note 2: David Mech's essay can be foundhere. It's important to note that he does not reject the notion of dominance (nor does he reject it here). Indeed, he wrote, "Similarly, pups are subordinate to both parents and to older siblings, yet they are fed preferentially by the parents, and even by their older (dominant) siblings (Mech et al. 1999). On the other hand, parents both dominate older offspring and restrict their food intake when food is scarce, feeding pups instead. Thus, the most practical effect of social dominance is to allow the dominant individual the choice of to whom to allot food."

Clearly there's lots of confusion on this matter (as well as the use of the word "alpha") and there seem to be myths about what Mech actually thinks about these matters. He does argue, as do others, that the notion of social dominance is not as ubiquitous as some claim it to be, but doesn't reject it across the board.

How to Manage Puppy Nipping

How to mange puppy play nipping

If a puppy's oral behavior extends to nipping and biting, the pet needs to be taught the limits of such mouthing. Unlike chewing behavior, mouthing is usually motivated by inappropriate social play. If the puppy were raised in a pack, its mother and the other adult dogs would not permit such liberties-and neither should people. To prevent or eliminate play nipping, advise owners to avoid using their hands in play unless they are petting their dogs or tossing a toy to be fetched.' Also tell owners to avoid rough play and tug of war. Such activity can excite the puppy, prompting mouthing of the owner vs. chewing on a toy. Instead, advise owners to use toys such as balls and ropes that keep hands at a distance.

Puppy bites necessitate a firm "no" and quick withdrawal of the owner's hand from the puppy's reach. When the owner's hand is withdrawn, the puppy's game no longer works. If the puppy still insists on biting in play, some carefully measured discipline is required. For example, the owner might quickly BUT GENTLY grasp the puppy's mouth, holding it firmly closed until the puppy relaxes or whimpers for a few seconds. If the puppy interprets that response as play, becomes defensive or overly fearful, or challenges the owner, all such direct punishment must cease. In many cases, leaving the room to socially isolate the puppy for 30 to 120 seconds is enough for the puppy to learn that mouthing is unacceptable.

Owners may also need to put a bitter-tasting substance on their hands, as described for chewing problems. This tells the puppy that hand chewing is unpleasant. Other forms of acceptable puppy discipline include using a squirt bottle or water gun; a shaker can; loud, hand-operated horns; or a head halter.2 These techniques work only if they are handy when needed. It is best to have several options in place wherever the owner and the puppy spend time together. When the puppy's play gets too rough, a deep, firm "no" needs to be followed by an effective intervention. This combination gives the puppy the vocal cue that it has overstepped acceptable bounds and reinforces that its actions will have consequences.

REFERENCES 1. Dunbar I.: Doctor Dunbar's Good Little Dog Book. James and Kenneth Publishers, Berkeley, Calif., 1992. 2. Landsberg, G.: Products for preventing or controlling undesirable behavior. Vet.

Dr Marty Becker reaction to the dog bite on Channel 9 in Colorado

Denver TV Anchor's Dog Attack Offers a Lesson in Reading Canine Behavior

By Dr. Marty Becker | February 10, 2012

9News

Like everyone else, I cringed when I saw the story of the dog who attacked Denver news anchor Kyle Dyer. Dyer was bitten on the face, and she will be off work for weeks following reconstructive surgery. And Max, the dog? Fate unknown. He’s in rabies quarantine, but what will happen to him after that has yet to be decided.

Max was on the show to be reunited with the firefighter who heroically waded into an icy lake to save him after he fell in. And now, because of poor judgment, a feel-good story has turned tragically bad.

Dogs Get Stage Fright Too

I know about dogs, bites and TV. In nearly every TV appearance I've made, whether onGood Morning America or the local news, I’m usually holding a dog. Many times, they’re dogs I’ve just met a few minutes earlier.

I've never been seriously bitten myself during these appearances, and the dogs I've handled on set have never bitten anyone else. Why? Because I know what makes a dog feel safe and secure and what makes a dog anxious or angry. No matter what else I'm doing on set, I’m paying attention to the dog — close attention.

I watched the clip from the Denver TV news show and was amazed at what I saw. The dog was showing signs of stress, and the owner had him tightly restrained, telegraphing his anxiety down the leash. Both were displaying distressing body language that would have been clear to any veterinarian, behaviorist or professional trainer well before the dog escalated his nonverbal warnings into a bite that connected tragically.

I believe it simply didn’t have to happen, and if there’d been someone on set who understood dogs better, it likely wouldn’t have. I know: I’ve been in situations with anxious pets on TV many times.

Rules to Remember

One such time, I was doing The Martha Stewart Show, and a producer who’s a longtime friend of mine wanted to feature her dog on the show. This dog was a lover, not a fighter, she said, a real powder puff! And the dog was all that, but only in his own home. Once the dog got into the studio, this former pooch pacifist was very anxious: panting, ears back, pupils dilated, ready to snap and bite from fear. While people wanted to pet the "nice dog," I insisted that I was the only person who would interact with him on the set.

What could have been a bad situation never was, because no one ever pushed the dog outside his comfort zone. The Denver news anchor, while well-intentioned, did not do the same, and the owner didn't know better either. I saw more than one of the cardinal sins broken on that short clip. Here are my three never-nevers:

• Don't look a strange dog in the eyes.
• Don't get your face down near a dog you don’t know.
• Don't try to put tight restraint on a strange dog.

Everyone should know these rules and follow them — children especially so. Because I have always practiced safe dog-handling, I think when it comes to bites I’ve been smart more than lucky. While most veterinarians will get bitten, those most likely to get nailed are new doctors who haven't yet learned the warning signs, those flashing yellow lights that you're about to run a red light and get bitten.

Dogs Are Pets, Not People

Of course, it’s easier if I’m paired with a dog I know. During the book tour for Your Dog: The Owner’s Manual, my coauthor, Gina Spadafori, brought McKenzie, her six-year-old champion retriever, with us on our bus; during the tour, McKenzie accompanied me to the TV interviews I did in almost every city. McKenzie is a relaxed and happy dog who has been well-socialized and well-trained. We never had a problem with her, but her mom and I never allowed her to be handled inappropriately. She likely would have been fine — she’s a very sweet-natured canine — but I know better than to push any dog to the limit. As much as we love them, we must always remember that our dogs are animals, not people.

That’s not an insult, by the way. The very animal nature of our pets is one of the best things about them. Through the bond, they offer us a way into their world and a way out of the high-stress, high-tech world we live in. The bargain is a good one, but sometimes we don’t hold up our end of it, and we ask too much of them and ignore the warning signs. Put yourself inside the mind and body of a dog in a stressful situation. You're in a place you don’t understand or maybe have bad memories of, such as a veterinary hospital. You're being restrained in an unnatural position, and your brain may default to the "fight or bite" programming.

If more people knew how to recognize the signs of stress and anxiety in their dogs, we’d have far fewer dog bites every year, and tragedies like the one that befell Max and Kyle Dyer this week would never happen.

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No classes Jan 21 due to weather

All classes cancelled due to winter storm!

Be safe!

Where is the Beef...

When I read this article my jaw hit the floor. While I knew many of these treats where unhealthy I had no idea they where deadly. Please share this with your friends and family. These companies making theses treats are only concerned with the bottom line: MONEY! If we all boycotted these products there bottom line. Stop the poisoning....

Where’s the beef? Read the label on one of the popular dog treats and you’ll be asking yourself that same question. Milk-Bones and Beggin Strips are the #1 and #2 top selling treats respectively and I’d sooner have my dog stick her head in the curbside garbage on a hot day than eat that stuff.

Where’s the conscience of Del Monte and Purina when they put toxins and animal waste in our pets’ food? And they’re not the only ones. Anyone that hides behind “Natural Flavors” on their label instead of telling us exactly what those flavors are (ADI, Waggin’ Train) needs a firm kick in the caboose. Just because the FDA allows manufacturers to do it, doesn’t mean they should.

BHA, BHT, Ethoxyquin, Sodium Metabisulfite and TBHQ.

These are chemical preservatives known to cause things like: cancer, liver and kidney problems, weakness, loss of consciousness, brain damage, and life-threatening asthma. One or more of these chemicals are in the top two selling treats and numerous others. The chemicals also are used to manufacture things like rubber and petroleum products, and embalming fluid.

Treats containing at least one of these chemicals These chemicals are used to manufacture:

Milk-Bones (Del Monte)

Embalming Fluid

Beggin Strips (Purina)

Jet Fuels

Pup Peroni (Del Monte)

Rubber Products

Busy Bones (Purina)

Pesticides

Moist n Meaty (Purina)

Electrical Transformer Oil

T-Bonz (Purina)

Petroleum Products

Ethoxyquin is so toxic that the FDA has prohibited it from human consumption except for minute quantities in certain spices (e.g. cayenne pepper). The FDA, despite the behest of veterinarians, has done nothing but suggest to pet product manufacturers they reduce its usage. Who knows if any of them have reduced it, but Purina still adds it into their Moist ‘n Meaty as disclosed clearly on their label. (See Sidebar about how tough it can be to spot ethoxyquin and other toxins.)

Toxins in pet food

So what’s the deal with all these other chemical preservatives? Sodium Metabisulfite (the preservative in Milk-Bones) is harmful if ingested or inhaled (as in sniffed). It reacts with WATER and acids (like those in your dog’s stomach) to release toxic sulfur dioxide gas. It can cause life-threatening asthmatic reactions after ingestion as well as gastrointestinal, circulatory and central nervous system problems. The people who handle this stuff are required to wear hazmat suits and respirators. And believe it or not, there’s more written about the harmful effects and cancer-causing properties of BHA and BHT than sodium metabisulfite. BHT is actually banned in England. And BHA is thought by the National Institutes of Health to cause stomach cancer.

TBHQ (a butane derivative) can cause death from ingestion of as little as 5 grams. Ingestion of a single gram (1/13 of an ounce) causes nausea, vomiting, ringing in the ears, delirium, a sense of suffocation and collapse. The FDA puts strict requirements on uses of all these toxic chemical preservatives in human food, but pet foods have few if any requirements and often contain much more.

So what’s the good news? There are many better, natural solutions for preserving food. Dehydration is the first one. Take the moisture out of something and bacteria cannot grow. Ask any caveman. It’s been around that long. And, no self-respecting cowboy would go hungry when he has a piece of dried meat in his pocket. Vitamin E, Vitamin C, and rosemary and sage extracts also make good, natural solutions. The problem for Purina and Del-Monte and others is that dehydration, vitamins and herb extracts are more expensive than sodium metabisulfite, BHA, BHT, TBHQ or ethoxyquin.

Dehydration, for instance, produces a treat with a lower water content (but denser nutritional profile) that hence weighs less. Dehydration also takes time and electricity – which cost money. Since treats are sold by net weight, massive commercial manufacturers want to keep the moisture content high so they can sell you the weight in water. But then they have to toss in chemical preservatives to keep the treats from spoiling.

“Natural Flavors” and Animal Digests

Here’s the scoop on natural flavors and animal digests: the FDA allows digestive tract contents to be processed into animal feed.

The FDA says:

“With respect to flavors, pet foods often contain digests, which are materials treated with heat, enzymes, and/or acids to form concentrated natural flavors. Only a small amount of a chicken digest is needed to produce a ‘Chicken Flavored Cat Food,’ even though no actual chicken is added to the food…” [emphasis added].

“Natural Flavors” and “Animal Digests” are on the labels of these popular products among others:

Beggin Strips (Purina)

Waggin-Train Jerky Tenders (made by ADI Pet in China)

Busy Bones (Purina)

T-Bonz (Purina)

The Goodlife Recipe (Mars, Inc.)

Meat and By-Products

Ever glance at a pet food label and see an ingredient called “meat?” Would you buy anything in the grocery store’s meat section that’s just identified as “meat” on the label? What exactly qualifies as “meat” and “by-products”?

Here’s a hint: The FDA has found pentobarbital (the euthanasia drug) in our pet’s food.

According to the FDA, “meat” for animal feed comes from:

“independent [rendering] plants that obtain animal by-product materials, including grease, blood, feathers, offal and entire animal carcasses from the following sources: butcher shops, supermarkets, restaurants, fast-food chains, poultry processors, slaughterhouses, farms, ranches, feedlots, and animal shelters.” [emphasis added]

AAFCO, the organization that works with the FDA to standardize definitions of ingredients and other things for the pet food industry, broadly defines “byproducts”. Poultry byproducts, for instance can include: “the carcass of slaughtered poultry such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs and intestines exclusive of feathers except… as might occur unavoidably…”

But it’s not the feathers – or even the addition of McDonald’s used grease – that’s most worrisome. It’s well documented that the FDA also allows 4D animals – that’s dead (as in roadkill dead), dying or diseased (as in anthrax) or disabled (as in mad-cow paralysis) as well as spoiled or contaminated meat to be used in pet food.

Recall the mad-cow epidemic in the late 1980s? It was determined that the cause of it was cattle (normally herbivores) being fed the remains of other diseased cattle (in the form of rendered down meat and byproducts). Nearly 4.4 million cattle were slaughtered in the eradication program that followed. But in October 2009, Mad Cow disease infected and killed another person showing that the disease is still lingering in the human food chain. So you would think your pet has got to be at much greater risk.

“Meat” and “By-Products” are in these popular treats:

Milk-Bones (Del Monte)

Pup-Peroni (Del Monte)

Busy Bones (Purina)

Moist n Meaty (Purina)

T-Bonz (Purina)

Beneful Snackin’ Slices (Purina)

Wheat, Corn, Soy, MSG, Refined Sugars & Artificial Sweeteners

Ever ask your vet why your seven year old dog is developing all these skin irritations and bumps? Or why she seems to have frequent bouts of intestinal upset? Here’s one good reason: she can’t digest the stuff she’s eating. Many dogs can’t digest wheat, corn and soy and some are allergic to these ingredients. Yet they’re included in food because they are cheap. Next time you pick up a 12 oz box of dog cookies for $3.99 retail consider how the manufacturer can make 12 oz of those treats for under $0.50.

MSG is included because it’s addictive, but like ethoxyquin you probably won’t find it on the label. If you see any type of “hydrolyzed” protein though, it likely contains MSG. MSG is believed to be a big culprit in the obesity epidemic in our pets (and ourselves). More than 50% of US dogs and cats are reportedly obese. MSG can more than triple insulin levels making even the most physically active animals fat.

The FDA says: “hydrolyzed proteins, used by the food industry to enhance flavor, are simply proteins that have been chemically broken apart into amino acids. The chemical breakdown of proteins may result in the formation of free glutamate that joins with free sodium to form MSG. In this case, the presence of MSG does not need to be disclosed on labeling.”

Refined sugars are added to pet food because dogs can taste sweetness. Yet sugar can cause obesity, dental problems and possibly diabetes. Artificial sweeteners are no good for dogs either and some are known toxins. The FDA still allows cancer-causing saccharine to be sold to humans and genetically modified ingredients to be undisclosed on labels. So chances are they’re not looking out for your pet.

Admittedly, artificial sweeteners and sugars can be hard to identify on a label when there’s a laundry list of six syllable words. But this can be our “‘Aha!’ moment.” If we don’t recognize it, should it really be ingested?

Here are a couple to remember: glycerin (aka glycerol) is a sugar substitute and filler, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate is an artificial sweetener with similar chemistry to Xylitol – and that one is known to be toxic to pets.

Wheat is in countless dog treats from the toxic ones to the junk-food treats. Here are a few of the popular treats that contain wheat and/or at least one of the other unhealthy ingredients in this category.

Milk-Bones (Del Monte)

Pup-Peroni (Del Monte)

Beggin Strips (Purina)

Waggin Train Jerky Tenders (ADI in China)

Busy Bones (Purina)

Moist n Meaty (Purina)

T-Bonz (Purina)

Beneful Snackin’ Slices (Purina)

The Goodlife Recipe (Mars, Inc.)

The Cancerous 5 Food Colorings, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Nitrite, Copper Sulfate and the Kitchen Sink

The list of additives from food coloring to artificial flavors and other preservatives is long. But why does there need to be food coloring in the treats we give our dogs.? Has a dog ever turn his nose up at a treat because it got a low score for plating and presentation?

Let’s do our dogs a favor; when we see red dye # this and yellow dye # that, let’s put the box back. It likely contains a ton of other toxins. The Cancerous Five Food Colorings, Titanium dioxide, copper sulfate, calcium proprionate, sodium bisulfite, propylene glycol, and zinc sulfate are just some of those hunks of junk. They can cause anything from gastrointestinal and skin disorders, to tumors and genetic disorders. And that’s just in the stuff humans and rats have reported. Who knows what our dogs feel.

Yellow #6, Blue #1 and #2, Red #3 and Green #3 are linked with cancer in animal testing. These are in Milk-Bones, Beggin Strips, Beneful Snackin Slices, and T-Bonz.

Titanium dioxide is a widely used white food coloring that’s also used for paints and plastics. Some prefer titanium in golf clubs not food. In food, it’s suspected of causing genetic disorders and lung tumors; in the clubs it simply causes humility.

Copper sulfate is an herbicide, fungicide and pesticide that’s also a known toxin no longer included in children’s chemistry sets because of health risks.

Calcium proprionate is a mold inhibitor. How did we get to be more worried about the mold than the chemicals?

Zinc sulfate will take the moss off your roof and kill the grass in your yard.

Sodium nitrite is linked with cancer and its in Beggin Strips and Pup-Peroni. Sodium nitrate is easily converted to cancer-causing compounds (called NOCs) and both sodium nitrite and nitrate have been linked with gastric cancer, esophageal cancer, and colorectal cancer. (Goodness Gracious uses uncured (nitrate/nitrite free) bacon in its bacon cheeseburger treats proving that manufacturers can make healthy and delicious stuff for dogs by simply choosing to do so.)

Sodium bisulfite (synthetic vitamin K also called menadione) is associated with liver toxicity, anemia, eczema, skin irritations, allergic conditions, and more and has been banned from food and supplements in Europe, and by the FDA in over the counter supplements.

And lastly, propylene glycol makes a darn good antifreeze and airplane de-icer, but any vet will tell you in the right amount it will kill your pet.

These popular treats contain these toxins:

Milk-Bones (Del Monte)

Beggin Strips (Purina)

Pup-Peroni (Del Monte)

T-Bonz (Purina)

Beneful Snackin’ Slices (Purina)

Moist n’ Meaty (Purina)

Busy Bone (Purina)

Wolves in captivity live 20 years. Their descendants – our dogs – live only a handful. Cancer is the #1 killer of our dogs; 50% of them die from it by some estimates. The toxins in their food are arguably a big contributing factor.

Our pets have a flaccid tongue; they can’t tell us that the Milk-Bones give them headaches or the Beggin Strips make their skin itch. They just know they’re hungry or they’ve done something good and this is their reward. Wag tail. Show belly. Give kisses.

So let’s make that reward something that they enjoy and that’s good for them. Today is the first day of the rest of your dog’s life. Remember, treat healthy and treat often. But if you can only do one of those things, then treat healthy. Your dog will make up the difference by living longer.

P.S. Do yourself a favor too. Spare yourself the gory details of what “mechanically separated meat” means on the label… Just stop eating the Slim Jims.

About the Author:

Amy Havens is the owner and founder of Goodness Gracious, LLC (www.GoodnessGraciousTreats.com). Goodness Gracious makes 100% human-grade dog treats and an all-natural tick repellent, and donates half of its profits to local animal shelters in communities where its treats are sold. You can find Goodness Gracious products in independent pet supply stores and upscale grocers in across the country and online . Amy lives in Marblehead with her husband, Tim, and their two red standard poodles, Grace and Lula.

Hounds for the Holidays! Keep Rover Safe!

Holiday times can be joyful or a source of stress for all of us, and that goes for your dogs, too! With some advanced planning and a little training, you can make things more festive and fun for Fido and less stressful for you!

Things to Keep in Mind Throughout the Holiday Seasons
Dogs can be very sensitive to changes in their environment and routines. When family members take time off from work and school, house guests come to stay, or other visitors roll through the home in droves, you need to try to preserve a few of your dog’s routines, such as regular meal schedules and walks, exercise or play sessions.

If there’s considerably more activity than usual, plan some quiet times for your dog as well. The added stress and excitement of holiday festivities can increase your dog’s thirst too, so make sure your dog has plenty of fresh water to drink.

If your dog is the excitable or anxious type, he might benefit from an over-the-counter remedy, such as Rescue Remedy, to help keep him calm down and relax. Ask your veterinarian about his or her recommendations as well as how much you should use and how often. Comfort Zone DAP (Dog Appeasing Pheromone) can also help maintain your dog’s calm demeanor. DAP mimics the effects of a pheromone emitted by nursing female dogs, thought to calm the puppies. It can be delivered through a wall diffuser (similar to an air-freshener plug-in), a special collar impregnated with the substance, or can be directly sprayed on bedding or a bandana worn by your dog.

Holiday Décor: Dog Safety Issues
Holiday trappings help to maintain the merry mood but can be fraught with dangers for your dog. Here are some things to watch out for:

• Christmas Trees



• Tinsel, popcorn strands, and other garland-like decorations can cause serious internal injuries if ingested, and these are just the kinds of things that curious dogs can’t resist.



• The ribbons, string, and other wrapping accessories found on gifts can be very problematic as well. These can lead to choking or strangulation for a curious pup.



• Water at the base of natural trees can contain anti-freeze and other preservatives that are deadly to your dog.



• All Christmas trees should be firmly anchored to the wall or ceiling to prevent it from being toppled by an inquisitive pooch.



• If you can’t avoid all these things, try encircling your Christmas tree and gift display with an exercise pen to keep your dog away but still allowing you to enjoy your holiday cheer.



• Electrical Cords



• Make sure these cords are well-secured, so your dog doesn’t make a chew toy out of them. Consider using cord containers or running them through PVC to avoid having your dog chew on them when you cannot supervise it.



• Snow Globes
  While many are still made of glass, others can be found in chewable plastic with plastic bases. Chewed plastic shards from broken globes can be life-threatening. Many globes also add an anti-freeze-like substance to the water inside to slow the movement of the snow inside, so a double danger!



• Scented candles
  Candles can be attractive because of their smell, taste and texture. Make sure they are perched on high shelves out of Rover’s reach! Never leave a lit candle unsupervised as they are easily knocked over and quickly become a fire hazard.
  

Who’s at the Door?
No where does the average family dog get into so much trouble as at the front door! Inappropriate greeting behaviors, door-dashing, and just over-the-top excitement can make the front door a source of stress for everyone during the holidays. Here are some ideas for making the doorway a safer place:


Train polite greeting behaviors
Practice! Heavily reinforce ‘sits’ and ignore jumping up. Turning your back on a jumper can work very well too. For added control, tether your dog to a heavy stationary object to prevent him from following you or jumping on your back as you turn away. Practice with lots of different people and practice in your doorway area to make sure your dog knows it where he’ll need it! You can also teach your dog to wait behind a boundary line away from the door entryway or teach him to go to a particular place, like a dog bed, while guests enter the home.

A safe place
If you haven’t had time to train for all the comings and goings at the door, it’s always good practice to have your dog crated, securely fastened on a tether, or on a leash while guests are arriving or departing.

Taming the Mob
Entertaining guests can make the holidays merry, but it’s important to remember how visitors can be stressful for our dogs.

Avoid visiting pets
Unless your dog is already great friends with your visitor’s pets, it’s a good idea to suggest your guests leave their pets at home. Having multiple animals in the home presents management challenges you may not be prepared to handle amidst all the other distractions you’ll be facing.

Keep snacking to a minimum
Make sure your guests know not to feed your dog from the table. Lots of fatty tidbits handed out by well-meaning visitors can also lead to a dangerous bout of pancreatitis or intestinal upset. If your friends can’t help but offer your dog a treat (who can resist!), have a portioned supply of his special treats or even his kibble on hand that guests can use instead.

Clear the area!
Keep a watchful eye for plates and cocktails left at dog level. Since good intentions are prone to fail with so much going on, consider confining your dog to his crate or another room while your guests are bustling about (make sure he has something wonderful to do while he’s there) just to make sure he doesn’t get into trouble.

Dogs and kids don’t always mix!
Holiday gatherings can be very over-stimulating for dogs and kids alike, so never leave the dog alone with any little people, even his own kids. Interactions between the dog and kids should be strictly supervised by an adult who’s dog-savvy enough to know when your dog needs a break.
Finally, if your dog is prone to fearfulness, anxiety or over-excitement when company is around, his crate or private place is best to keep him calm and safe.

Train In Advance!
Great manners are always made, not born, and it can be fun to work with your dog on the life skills he’ll need to be the life of the party. Here are a few things you’ll want to incorporate into your training plan:

“Sit and wait” or “down and wait”
Great skills for your dog to learn! Taught positively, these exercises help your dog relax and enjoy his calm and relaxed participation in a family gathering. They can also prevent unruly door greetings and eliminate door-dashing.

“Place” or “go to bed”
This cue basically involves teaching the dog to proceed to a specified place and wait there for further instructions. Use this one to keep him away from the food table during meal times, which prevents begging and discourages guests from passing your pooch tidbits under the table.

“Leave it”
An invaluable tool for any dog owner and can help head off a dog who’s aiming for a gift basket, dropped food item, or just about anything else. Trained positively, your dog will gladly disengage from just about anything you’ve assigned a “leave it” to.

Counter-surfing counter-measures
Already confirmed counter-surfers should be confined away from the action, since the high temptation, high distraction environment of a holiday party will be more than they can bear! But if your dog still hasn’t scored off the counter yet, using “leave it” training will go a long way to helping your dog understand that counter-surfing doesn’t pay!

Bring on the noise!
Many holiday celebrations include noisy displays such as fireworks that can drive your dog batty. Start preparing in advance by playing fireworks sound effect recordings on your home stereo. Start the volume at a very low, almost imperceptible level until you’re sure that your dog is comfortable; then crank up the volume half a click. Continue progressing at that rate until bombs bursting in air are no big deal for your dog. If you have a dog who’s already acutely sound-sensitive, find a good trainer or behavior consultant with experience in this area to help you get ready.

References
DAP with Comfort Zone
Rescue Remedy
ASPCA Animal Control Poison Center 1-888-4-ANI-HELP
Premier’s Manners Minder
APDT.com

OUR CLASSES! Training Group Classes

Training Bothe Ends of the Leash for over 25 years!

All of our classes are limited to 6-10 students. Theses small classes provide for individualized attention. Many classes are offered more than one day per week, allowing clients to attend one or both for the same fee. It's like two classes for the price of one. All classes are taught using only positive methods, including shaping and clicker (if owner perfers) training.

Our classes cater to your own personal needs and goals.

All classes listed below are also available in Private Lessons either at your home or at our training center.

All are offered on a rolling admission/open enrollment...allowing you to begin NOW! (pre-registration needed)

The class below are always available...they are offered year round, (excempt Agility)!

JOIN TODAY!

Manners 101
This 8-class provides the foundation, the building blocks for a great realationship! You and you pup learn all the basic skills needed. Sit, down, come, stay, walk politley on a leash, polite greeting of people and other dogs, and so MUCH MORE!

Ideal for puppies, young dogs, just recued/adopted dogs, all ages!

Meets: Tues and Sat.

Therapy Dog Class
This 12-week class focuses on preparing the handler and dog for any therapy environment. This class is ideal for both the novice and experienced handler.

Meets: Weds and Sat

Agility for Beginner and Intermediate
This 10-week class will allow you to explore the fastest growing dog sport. Learn skills with sequencing obstacles and the footwork needed to be successful in the sport of agility.

Meets: Warm weather months....

Trick, Targets and Games Oh My!
This on-going class will cover tricks such as roll over, play dead, wipe your nose and yes, READ . . and so much more.

Meets: Fri

Graduate Handling and Training
This 6-month class focuses on advanced skill building and using ultimate distractions while maintaining focus, advanced social skills--- all off leash! and so much more.

Meets: Sun

Off-Leash Extravaganza
This 10-week class is truly an off-leash class. It provides all the skills needed for off-leash handling and control.

Meets: Sun

Problem Solving Classes and Lessons
Maybe your dog is jumping on everyone or growling, begging, not coming when called, or acting aggressively toward other dogs or people. We help you find the needed solutions to these common issues that dog families face.

Meets: Customized to your schedule

New classes, including Scent Workshops, Frisbee, etc. starting all the time. Call for more information. 413-559-7011

Other Services
Overnight Care ~ Nail Trimming ~ Visit our Shoppe ~ Private Lessons
Board and Training ~ Residential Education
Workshops ~ Seminars