Where is the Beef...

When I read this article my jaw hit the floor. While I knew many of these treats where unhealthy I had no idea they where deadly. Please share this with your friends and family. These companies making theses treats are only concerned with the bottom line: MONEY! If we all boycotted these products there bottom line. Stop the poisoning....

Where’s the beef? Read the label on one of the popular dog treats and you’ll be asking yourself that same question. Milk-Bones and Beggin Strips are the #1 and #2 top selling treats respectively and I’d sooner have my dog stick her head in the curbside garbage on a hot day than eat that stuff.

Where’s the conscience of Del Monte and Purina when they put toxins and animal waste in our pets’ food? And they’re not the only ones. Anyone that hides behind “Natural Flavors” on their label instead of telling us exactly what those flavors are (ADI, Waggin’ Train) needs a firm kick in the caboose. Just because the FDA allows manufacturers to do it, doesn’t mean they should.

BHA, BHT, Ethoxyquin, Sodium Metabisulfite and TBHQ.

These are chemical preservatives known to cause things like: cancer, liver and kidney problems, weakness, loss of consciousness, brain damage, and life-threatening asthma. One or more of these chemicals are in the top two selling treats and numerous others. The chemicals also are used to manufacture things like rubber and petroleum products, and embalming fluid.

Treats containing at least one of these chemicals These chemicals are used to manufacture:

Milk-Bones (Del Monte)

Embalming Fluid

Beggin Strips (Purina)

Jet Fuels

Pup Peroni (Del Monte)

Rubber Products

Busy Bones (Purina)

Pesticides

Moist n Meaty (Purina)

Electrical Transformer Oil

T-Bonz (Purina)

Petroleum Products

Ethoxyquin is so toxic that the FDA has prohibited it from human consumption except for minute quantities in certain spices (e.g. cayenne pepper). The FDA, despite the behest of veterinarians, has done nothing but suggest to pet product manufacturers they reduce its usage. Who knows if any of them have reduced it, but Purina still adds it into their Moist ‘n Meaty as disclosed clearly on their label. (See Sidebar about how tough it can be to spot ethoxyquin and other toxins.)

Toxins in pet food

So what’s the deal with all these other chemical preservatives? Sodium Metabisulfite (the preservative in Milk-Bones) is harmful if ingested or inhaled (as in sniffed). It reacts with WATER and acids (like those in your dog’s stomach) to release toxic sulfur dioxide gas. It can cause life-threatening asthmatic reactions after ingestion as well as gastrointestinal, circulatory and central nervous system problems. The people who handle this stuff are required to wear hazmat suits and respirators. And believe it or not, there’s more written about the harmful effects and cancer-causing properties of BHA and BHT than sodium metabisulfite. BHT is actually banned in England. And BHA is thought by the National Institutes of Health to cause stomach cancer.

TBHQ (a butane derivative) can cause death from ingestion of as little as 5 grams. Ingestion of a single gram (1/13 of an ounce) causes nausea, vomiting, ringing in the ears, delirium, a sense of suffocation and collapse. The FDA puts strict requirements on uses of all these toxic chemical preservatives in human food, but pet foods have few if any requirements and often contain much more.

So what’s the good news? There are many better, natural solutions for preserving food. Dehydration is the first one. Take the moisture out of something and bacteria cannot grow. Ask any caveman. It’s been around that long. And, no self-respecting cowboy would go hungry when he has a piece of dried meat in his pocket. Vitamin E, Vitamin C, and rosemary and sage extracts also make good, natural solutions. The problem for Purina and Del-Monte and others is that dehydration, vitamins and herb extracts are more expensive than sodium metabisulfite, BHA, BHT, TBHQ or ethoxyquin.

Dehydration, for instance, produces a treat with a lower water content (but denser nutritional profile) that hence weighs less. Dehydration also takes time and electricity – which cost money. Since treats are sold by net weight, massive commercial manufacturers want to keep the moisture content high so they can sell you the weight in water. But then they have to toss in chemical preservatives to keep the treats from spoiling.

“Natural Flavors” and Animal Digests

Here’s the scoop on natural flavors and animal digests: the FDA allows digestive tract contents to be processed into animal feed.

The FDA says:

“With respect to flavors, pet foods often contain digests, which are materials treated with heat, enzymes, and/or acids to form concentrated natural flavors. Only a small amount of a chicken digest is needed to produce a ‘Chicken Flavored Cat Food,’ even though no actual chicken is added to the food…” [emphasis added].

“Natural Flavors” and “Animal Digests” are on the labels of these popular products among others:

Beggin Strips (Purina)

Waggin-Train Jerky Tenders (made by ADI Pet in China)

Busy Bones (Purina)

T-Bonz (Purina)

The Goodlife Recipe (Mars, Inc.)

Meat and By-Products

Ever glance at a pet food label and see an ingredient called “meat?” Would you buy anything in the grocery store’s meat section that’s just identified as “meat” on the label? What exactly qualifies as “meat” and “by-products”?

Here’s a hint: The FDA has found pentobarbital (the euthanasia drug) in our pet’s food.

According to the FDA, “meat” for animal feed comes from:

“independent [rendering] plants that obtain animal by-product materials, including grease, blood, feathers, offal and entire animal carcasses from the following sources: butcher shops, supermarkets, restaurants, fast-food chains, poultry processors, slaughterhouses, farms, ranches, feedlots, and animal shelters.” [emphasis added]

AAFCO, the organization that works with the FDA to standardize definitions of ingredients and other things for the pet food industry, broadly defines “byproducts”. Poultry byproducts, for instance can include: “the carcass of slaughtered poultry such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs and intestines exclusive of feathers except… as might occur unavoidably…”

But it’s not the feathers – or even the addition of McDonald’s used grease – that’s most worrisome. It’s well documented that the FDA also allows 4D animals – that’s dead (as in roadkill dead), dying or diseased (as in anthrax) or disabled (as in mad-cow paralysis) as well as spoiled or contaminated meat to be used in pet food.

Recall the mad-cow epidemic in the late 1980s? It was determined that the cause of it was cattle (normally herbivores) being fed the remains of other diseased cattle (in the form of rendered down meat and byproducts). Nearly 4.4 million cattle were slaughtered in the eradication program that followed. But in October 2009, Mad Cow disease infected and killed another person showing that the disease is still lingering in the human food chain. So you would think your pet has got to be at much greater risk.

“Meat” and “By-Products” are in these popular treats:

Milk-Bones (Del Monte)

Pup-Peroni (Del Monte)

Busy Bones (Purina)

Moist n Meaty (Purina)

T-Bonz (Purina)

Beneful Snackin’ Slices (Purina)

Wheat, Corn, Soy, MSG, Refined Sugars & Artificial Sweeteners

Ever ask your vet why your seven year old dog is developing all these skin irritations and bumps? Or why she seems to have frequent bouts of intestinal upset? Here’s one good reason: she can’t digest the stuff she’s eating. Many dogs can’t digest wheat, corn and soy and some are allergic to these ingredients. Yet they’re included in food because they are cheap. Next time you pick up a 12 oz box of dog cookies for $3.99 retail consider how the manufacturer can make 12 oz of those treats for under $0.50.

MSG is included because it’s addictive, but like ethoxyquin you probably won’t find it on the label. If you see any type of “hydrolyzed” protein though, it likely contains MSG. MSG is believed to be a big culprit in the obesity epidemic in our pets (and ourselves). More than 50% of US dogs and cats are reportedly obese. MSG can more than triple insulin levels making even the most physically active animals fat.

The FDA says: “hydrolyzed proteins, used by the food industry to enhance flavor, are simply proteins that have been chemically broken apart into amino acids. The chemical breakdown of proteins may result in the formation of free glutamate that joins with free sodium to form MSG. In this case, the presence of MSG does not need to be disclosed on labeling.”

Refined sugars are added to pet food because dogs can taste sweetness. Yet sugar can cause obesity, dental problems and possibly diabetes. Artificial sweeteners are no good for dogs either and some are known toxins. The FDA still allows cancer-causing saccharine to be sold to humans and genetically modified ingredients to be undisclosed on labels. So chances are they’re not looking out for your pet.

Admittedly, artificial sweeteners and sugars can be hard to identify on a label when there’s a laundry list of six syllable words. But this can be our “‘Aha!’ moment.” If we don’t recognize it, should it really be ingested?

Here are a couple to remember: glycerin (aka glycerol) is a sugar substitute and filler, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate is an artificial sweetener with similar chemistry to Xylitol – and that one is known to be toxic to pets.

Wheat is in countless dog treats from the toxic ones to the junk-food treats. Here are a few of the popular treats that contain wheat and/or at least one of the other unhealthy ingredients in this category.

Milk-Bones (Del Monte)

Pup-Peroni (Del Monte)

Beggin Strips (Purina)

Waggin Train Jerky Tenders (ADI in China)

Busy Bones (Purina)

Moist n Meaty (Purina)

T-Bonz (Purina)

Beneful Snackin’ Slices (Purina)

The Goodlife Recipe (Mars, Inc.)

The Cancerous 5 Food Colorings, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Nitrite, Copper Sulfate and the Kitchen Sink

The list of additives from food coloring to artificial flavors and other preservatives is long. But why does there need to be food coloring in the treats we give our dogs.? Has a dog ever turn his nose up at a treat because it got a low score for plating and presentation?

Let’s do our dogs a favor; when we see red dye # this and yellow dye # that, let’s put the box back. It likely contains a ton of other toxins. The Cancerous Five Food Colorings, Titanium dioxide, copper sulfate, calcium proprionate, sodium bisulfite, propylene glycol, and zinc sulfate are just some of those hunks of junk. They can cause anything from gastrointestinal and skin disorders, to tumors and genetic disorders. And that’s just in the stuff humans and rats have reported. Who knows what our dogs feel.

Yellow #6, Blue #1 and #2, Red #3 and Green #3 are linked with cancer in animal testing. These are in Milk-Bones, Beggin Strips, Beneful Snackin Slices, and T-Bonz.

Titanium dioxide is a widely used white food coloring that’s also used for paints and plastics. Some prefer titanium in golf clubs not food. In food, it’s suspected of causing genetic disorders and lung tumors; in the clubs it simply causes humility.

Copper sulfate is an herbicide, fungicide and pesticide that’s also a known toxin no longer included in children’s chemistry sets because of health risks.

Calcium proprionate is a mold inhibitor. How did we get to be more worried about the mold than the chemicals?

Zinc sulfate will take the moss off your roof and kill the grass in your yard.

Sodium nitrite is linked with cancer and its in Beggin Strips and Pup-Peroni. Sodium nitrate is easily converted to cancer-causing compounds (called NOCs) and both sodium nitrite and nitrate have been linked with gastric cancer, esophageal cancer, and colorectal cancer. (Goodness Gracious uses uncured (nitrate/nitrite free) bacon in its bacon cheeseburger treats proving that manufacturers can make healthy and delicious stuff for dogs by simply choosing to do so.)

Sodium bisulfite (synthetic vitamin K also called menadione) is associated with liver toxicity, anemia, eczema, skin irritations, allergic conditions, and more and has been banned from food and supplements in Europe, and by the FDA in over the counter supplements.

And lastly, propylene glycol makes a darn good antifreeze and airplane de-icer, but any vet will tell you in the right amount it will kill your pet.

These popular treats contain these toxins:

Milk-Bones (Del Monte)

Beggin Strips (Purina)

Pup-Peroni (Del Monte)

T-Bonz (Purina)

Beneful Snackin’ Slices (Purina)

Moist n’ Meaty (Purina)

Busy Bone (Purina)

Wolves in captivity live 20 years. Their descendants – our dogs – live only a handful. Cancer is the #1 killer of our dogs; 50% of them die from it by some estimates. The toxins in their food are arguably a big contributing factor.

Our pets have a flaccid tongue; they can’t tell us that the Milk-Bones give them headaches or the Beggin Strips make their skin itch. They just know they’re hungry or they’ve done something good and this is their reward. Wag tail. Show belly. Give kisses.

So let’s make that reward something that they enjoy and that’s good for them. Today is the first day of the rest of your dog’s life. Remember, treat healthy and treat often. But if you can only do one of those things, then treat healthy. Your dog will make up the difference by living longer.

P.S. Do yourself a favor too. Spare yourself the gory details of what “mechanically separated meat” means on the label… Just stop eating the Slim Jims.

About the Author:

Amy Havens is the owner and founder of Goodness Gracious, LLC (www.GoodnessGraciousTreats.com). Goodness Gracious makes 100% human-grade dog treats and an all-natural tick repellent, and donates half of its profits to local animal shelters in communities where its treats are sold. You can find Goodness Gracious products in independent pet supply stores and upscale grocers in across the country and online . Amy lives in Marblehead with her husband, Tim, and their two red standard poodles, Grace and Lula.

OUR CLASSES! Training Group Classes

Training Bothe Ends of the Leash for over 25 years!

All of our classes are limited to 6-10 students. Theses small classes provide for individualized attention. Many classes are offered more than one day per week, allowing clients to attend one or both for the same fee. It's like two classes for the price of one. All classes are taught using only positive methods, including shaping and clicker (if owner perfers) training.

Our classes cater to your own personal needs and goals.

All classes listed below are also available in Private Lessons either at your home or at our training center.

All are offered on a rolling admission/open enrollment...allowing you to begin NOW! (pre-registration needed)

The class below are always available...they are offered year round, (excempt Agility)!

JOIN TODAY!

Manners 101
This 8-class provides the foundation, the building blocks for a great realationship! You and you pup learn all the basic skills needed. Sit, down, come, stay, walk politley on a leash, polite greeting of people and other dogs, and so MUCH MORE!

Ideal for puppies, young dogs, just recued/adopted dogs, all ages!

Meets: Tues and Sat.

Therapy Dog Class
This 12-week class focuses on preparing the handler and dog for any therapy environment. This class is ideal for both the novice and experienced handler.

Meets: Weds and Sat

Agility for Beginner and Intermediate
This 10-week class will allow you to explore the fastest growing dog sport. Learn skills with sequencing obstacles and the footwork needed to be successful in the sport of agility.

Meets: Warm weather months....

Trick, Targets and Games Oh My!
This on-going class will cover tricks such as roll over, play dead, wipe your nose and yes, READ . . and so much more.

Meets: Fri

Graduate Handling and Training
This 6-month class focuses on advanced skill building and using ultimate distractions while maintaining focus, advanced social skills--- all off leash! and so much more.

Meets: Sun

Off-Leash Extravaganza
This 10-week class is truly an off-leash class. It provides all the skills needed for off-leash handling and control.

Meets: Sun

Problem Solving Classes and Lessons
Maybe your dog is jumping on everyone or growling, begging, not coming when called, or acting aggressively toward other dogs or people. We help you find the needed solutions to these common issues that dog families face.

Meets: Customized to your schedule

New classes, including Scent Workshops, Frisbee, etc. starting all the time. Call for more information. 413-559-7011

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Hypoallergenic dogs don't have lower household allergen levels than other dogs, study finds

Hypoallergenic dogs don't have lower household allergen levels than other dogs, study finds

ScienceDaily (2011-07-12) -- Contrary to popular belief, so-called hypoallergenic dogs do not have lower household allergen levels than other dogs. That's the conclusion of a study by researchers who sought to evaluate whether hypoallergenic dogs have a lower dog allergen in the home than other dogs. Hypoallergenic dogs are believed to produce less dander and saliva and shed less fur. ... > read full article

Stinkkyyy Dog! Remove the Skunk smell from your dog

RECIPE FOR REMOVING SKUNK SMELL FROM YOUR DOG

You will want to use the following formula for removing the skunk smell from your dog: This formula removes the odor.

You will need the following from any local grocery or drug store:
• 1 QT. OF 3% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
• 1/4 CUP OF BAKING SODA
• 1 TEASPOON OF A "Dawn' LIQUID SOAP or other dish soap

MIX AND IMMEDIATELY APPLY TO YOUR DOG. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO GET THE MIXTURE IN YOUR DOGS NOSE, EYES ,EARS OR MOUTH.
LATHER UP REALLY GOOD (You can use cheap shampoo first just to get the suds going)
RINSE AND DRY OFF YOUR DOG. REPEAT, and if needed REPEAT

* Please note do not save this formula. The chemical mixture kept closed up can explode!

Oh, No my dog swallowed....emergency care

How to Make a Dog Vomit Using Hydrogen Peroxide

WARNING! CONSULT A VETERNARAN PROFESSIONAL TO BE SURE THIS IS THE IDEAL SOLUATION FOR YOUR SITUATION.

We all know dogs love to put things in their mouths, to chew, to eat. Unfortunately, many items they eat out of curiosity can hurt them and, in some cases, cause death. Use these steps to make a dog vomit using hydrogen peroxide.

Instructions
Things You'll Need
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Sterile syringe
• Teaspoon
• Paper towels

1. Call your veterinarian immediately once you've determined your dog has eaten something dangerous. Call a veterinarian emergency clinic if your vet is not available. Take their professional advice first before you make a dog vomit using hydrogen peroxide.

2. Secure your dog OUTSIDE area,. Vomiting can start fast and outside is easiest to clean up. If possible ask someone to help you with restraint to make a dog vomit using hydrogen peroxide since the job isn't as easy for one person.

3. Give a small dog about 1 capful of hydrogen peroxide. Use the cap of a regular sized bottle of hydrogen peroxide--about a teaspoon full. Administer more--around 2-4 tablespoons--to a larger dog. OR fill a syringe so that you can use it to inject the liquid down into your dog's throat.

4. Wait patiently and quietly until your dog vomits. Know that it occurs soon after you give it hydrogen peroxide, but it can take up to five minutes. Look for foreign objects in the vomit and make sure your dog has expelled ALL of the dangerous items it swallowed. Repeat the procedure if nothing substantial comes up. Realize there may be nothing obvious to see if you are trying to help your dog eliminate a poison.

Tips & Warnings

• Call your vet and do not make a dog vomit using hydrogen peroxide if it has eaten something sharp or extra large (glass or whole tennis ball) since it will be worse for your dog to vomit these items up.

• Take your dog to your vet or an emergency pet hospital if they seem non-responsive, disoriented, confused or unconscious before doing anything else.

Pool Safety Tips...have a safe summer

Swimming Pool Safety Tips

Yippee, Pool Party!
Your dog may take these words as an invitation to jump into the middle of kids playing “Marco Polo” or as her time to scout for crumbs under deck chairs.

Either way, some important water safety tips are in order because some dogs don’t like to swim and others shouldn’t.

Water Safety Example #1: One day Buddy, a Basset Hound, saw his English Setter friend, Spencer, on the far side of the pond. With a mighty leap, Buddy took off swimming toward the other bank. Buddy’s heavy body and stubby legs were not seaworthy.

Had Buddy not turned himself around, it could have become an emergency. Dogs will panic in the water and try to climb on top of a rescuer, so it is safer to throw them something that floats, like a life preserver on a rope, they can “grab.”

Water Safety Example #2: A nine-week-old Miniature Poodle barked frantically as her owners left in a rubber raft. She was unhappy to have been left on the shore. She jumped into the lake and headed for the raft. Her frightened owners turned the raft around and luckily the puppy followed them to land. She survived the incident better than her frantic owners.

The puppy incident could have been avoided if the pup had been placed within an Ex-pen for its safety, or had simply been taken on the raft with a life jacket. Never assume your dog will not try to follow you into water.

Some Water Safety Training Tips to Keep in Mind

Although not all dogs are fond of water, they should be exposed to it for their own safety. With some simple training and safety devices, you can ease your mind and protect your dog this summer.

•
Give him a gradual introduction into the pool or lake by holding him snugly and slowly walking into the water. Let him get wet a little at a time and eventually let him swim to the exit. Make it a positive experience with lots of encouragement and praise.
•
Teach proper swimming technique. All dogs will instinctively paddle when submerged in water, but as inexperienced swimmers, many dogs try to rely on their front legs and do little with their rear legs. This results in an almost vertical swim technique with lots of splashing. It’s exhausting and very easy for a dog to become over-tired this way. With proper training, the most vertical of swimmers can learn to use their rear legs, evening out their performance and swimming much more effectively and safely. Keep a close eye on your dog – if you see them become over-stimulated or fatigued, it’s time to call them out. If you see your accomplished swimmer dog lowering his rear, this is a sign that he is getting tired.
•
Dogs have poor depth perception so if the pool has steps, mark them with a big potted plant and make sure he associates the plant as the exit marker. If there are no steps, provide a non-slip ramp for getting out. Spend sufficient time training him to go up the ramp if he’s alone.
•
If your dog plays in a lake, make sure to stand at the place on the shore where he can easily walk out.
•
Always use a life jacket on your dog in ponds, lakes, rivers, or the open water. Just like with people, it’s easy for a dog to develop a cramp in a leg, become exhausted too far from shore, or in the case of rivers or oceans, overwhelmed by tides. Life jackets give your dog the extra protection to stay buoyant.
•
Keep safety floatation devices nearby, just in the case of an emergency. If your dog gets into trouble, a life preserver attached to a long line is the best course of action to take. Dogs panic easily in the water when trouble hits, and a panicked, flailing dog can accidentally drown any person trying to assist it. Get the dog to grab out to the preserver first and try to reel it in closer to shore before physically trying to help it out.
•
Training polite pool manners is a must. A big Golden Retriever sailing through the air in her excitement to get in the water is a no-no. Train the canine to “Wait” at pool’s edge or to always use the steps or the ramp.
•
Also teach her that the “Come” command applies to the pool as much as it does to dry land.
•
Be mindful of the specific needs of your dog’s breed. Each dog’s physical structure and body-type will greatly impact his swimming ability. Heavily muscled bully breeds exert more energy while swimming due to their increased body mass. Consider using a lifejacket with such dogs for added protection.
•
Watch your dog’s nails! Dogs can quickly wear their nails down to the point of bleeding as they excitedly race around the pool’s exterior. Keep a watchful eye on the pads of their feet as well. Repeated launching from pool steps can tear up paw pads; especially for dogs who spend most of their time on grass.
•
Unless your pool cover is solid and strong enough to support your weight, do not leave it on when your dog is unattended near the pool. Countless dogs, even accomplished swimmers, have lost their lives following an unexpected tumble into a covered pool. Once they’re in, the cover is disorienting and it’s almost always impossible for a dog to find his way out. If your dog needs to spend time in the yard unsupervised, consider erecting a pool safety fence.
•
Avoid letting your dog drink pool water. Always keep an ample supply of fresh water around so your dog can drink without attempting to drink from the pool. Also make sure you give your dog many opportunities to relieve himself after a swim as he is likely to ingest water from wherever he is swimming (pool, pond, lake or ocean) and may need to urinate more often.
•
Make sure you rinse your dog off after a swim to get chlorine and other pool chemicals, as well as bacteria or dirt he might get on him from a pond or lake. Don’t let your dog sit in a wet collar as hot spots can develop. Be mindful of areas where water can collect, like ears, groin, and armpits, where moisture-induced infections can occur.
•
If your dog is overweight or a senior, check with your veterinarian first before allowing him to swim. This is also important for dogs who are generally sedentary. Dogs, like people, experience muscle soreness and stiffness and they’re counting on us to lookout for their best interests.

Our Summer Potluck...you are invited

Let the fun begin....Mark your calendars!

Our Summer Potluck is Sat Aug 27, 6pm-8pm (rain date Sunday Aug 28) , this annual event is the highlight of the Leading the Way season. This seasons potluck will be held at our home. 40 South Main St. South Deerfield

We ask that everyone bring a dish to share with 10 people.

Using your dogs name (one of them)

A-G main dish

H-L side dish

M-Q drinks

R-Z Dessert

Also, we do a Yankee swap. This fun activity is enjoyed by all. To participate, bring a pet themed gift valued at $25 wrapped.

***** Please note this event is not for every dog. In the past this event has had as many as 25 or more dogs. With that in mind....shy fearful dogs may be overwhelmed. Others may may not be comfortable with the new people.

The fence is just a standard height of 4 feet. If your dog is known to jump or try to escape fences you may want to reconsider bringing your dog.

Safety is our biggest concern. Some dogs would enjoy being at home and you come and enjoy yourself. ***** we will also be providing a small dog play area. *****

New to Leading the Way please RSVP to leadingthewaydogtraining@yahoo.com

Summer Tips

Summer Tips:

When it comes to the summer time heat and sunshine, make sure to follow some safety tips so your pet can join in the fun.

Even if it’s only for 10 minutes, don’t leave your dog in your car. Aside from being against the law in many states, even a few moments in the heat will turn your car into an oven. This can lead to dehydration, brain damage or even death, and even cracking the car window will not be enough to combat summer heat. You can visit the My Dog is Cool web site to see a chart on how fast your car can become overheated.

Often pet owners will shave down their dogs during the summer time, thinking this will help keep them cool. But ironically, shaving down a dog inhibits their ability to deal with the temperature change! So keep your dogs well groomed by removing all its dead undercoat hair, but remember not to shave them down in order to help them tolerate the summer sun. Your dog’s skin will also be at risk from the sun, so sunscreen is recommended. Make sure you use a sunscreen that is specifically made for your dog. Dogs that are shaved, have short white fur, or are hairless are most at risk of sun damage. Other areas of sensitivity are their noses and tips of their ears.

The blacktop street asphalt gets hot. Very hot! Walk your pet on the grass or on the sidewalk instead of on the street. Those hot black roads can hurt their paws. On days that your dog spends a lot of time outside, you’ll want to check the dog’s paws for sun damage and his fur for ticks. When checking for ticks, make sure you look under the tail, on their stomach, in their ears and between their toes.

Some simple training and safety devices can ease your mind and protect your dog this summer. For example, make sure to give your dogs treats and praise in order to positively reinforce being handled and having his fur and paws looked at. Practice this often so that your dog likes being handled! If you want to use doggie sunscreen on your pup, put it on while your dog is playing ball with you or doing another enjoyable activity so that your dog positively associates sunscreen application with good times

Last but certainly not least, always have plenty of water available for your dog! This will ensure that they keep cool and hydrated, which in turn will keep them healthy and happy this summer. From APDT.com

New Sport for all dogs!

New Sport for all dogs! Gittel even enjoyed this new sport.....


Try Treibball! The New Herding Sport - No Sheep Required (whole dog journal)
This fun new sport replaces sheep with exercise balls to make herding accessible to any dog owner, anywhere!
Just when you think every possible canine sport has already been invented, someone comes up with a new one. This latest one is a humdinger, and it’s spreading like wildfire. If you haven’t already heard of treibball (pronounced “Try-ball” and also known as “Drive Ball”), you’ve been



Treibball (also known as “drive ball”) is a very new and very fun sport. Herding dogs are natural candidates, but so are any dogs that like to play with balls and dogs that enjoy shaping games. This is Kula, a two-year-old Weimaraner, learning the game at Sandi Pensinger’s training facility in Aptos, California.

Treibball is a terrific new way to play with your dog. The game consists of “herding” a number of large inflatable exercise balls into a soccer-like net. Of course the herding breeds come to mind, but it’s also great for many of the prey-oriented sporting dogs and terriers, and any other dogs who just like to chase things.

It’s a competitive sport for dogs of all ages and sizes. It promotes better teamwork and communication between a dog and his handler. It’s great fun for any energetic dogs who work well off-leash and need a job, dogs who like to chase stuff, or dogs who like to herd and don’t have sheep!

Treibball was developed by January Nijboer in Germany (“treibball” is variously translated from German as “blowing ball,” “drifting ball,” or “propelling ball”) as a game that would occupy herding dogs. Examples of treibball dogs in action aired a few months ago on YouTube and before you could say “Go bye!” the game went viral in the American dog training world – for good reason. A “flock” of exercise balls makes an inexpensive substitute for a flock of sheep, and doesn’t violate your neighborhood association’s rules, either.

Long-Term Health Risks and Benefits Associated with Spay / Neuter in Dogs

Long-Term Health Risks and Benefits Associated with Spay / Neuter in Dogs Laura J. Sanborn, M.S. May 14, 2007 Precis

At some point, most of us with an interest in dogs will have to consider whether or not to spay / neuter our pet. Tradition holds that the benefits of doing so at an early age outweigh the risks. Often, tradition holds sway in the decision-making process even after countervailing evidence has accumulated. Ms Sanborn has reviewed the veterinary medical literature in an exhaustive and scholarly treatise, attempting to unravel the complexities of the subject. More than 50 peer-reviewed papers were examined to assess the health impacts of spay / neuter in female and male dogs, respectively. One cannot ignore the findings of increased risk from osteosarcoma, hemangiosarcoma, hypothyroidism, and other less frequently occurring diseases associated with neutering male dogs. It would be irresponsible of the veterinary profession and the pet owning community to fail to weigh the relative costs and benefits of neutering on the animal’s health and well-being. The decision for females may be more complex, further emphasizing the need for individualized veterinary medical decisions, not standard operating procedures for all patients.

No sweeping generalizations are implied in this review. Rather, the author asks us to consider all the health and disease information available as individual animals ar evaluated. Then, the best decisions should be made accounting for gender, age, breed, and even the specific conditions under which the long-term care, housing and training of the animal will occur.

This important review will help veterinary medical care providers as well as pet owners make informed decisions. Who could ask for more?

Larry S. Katz, PhD Associate Professor and Chair Animal Sciences Rutgers University New Brunswick, NJ 08901

INTRODUCTION
Dog owners in America are frequently advised to spay/neuter their dogs for health reasons. A number of health benefits are cited, yet evidence is usually not cited to support the alleged health benefits. When discussing the health impacts of spay/neuter, health risks are often not mentioned. At times, some risks are mentioned, but the most severe risks usually are not. This article is an attempt to summarize the long-term health risks and benefits associated with spay/neuter in dogs that can be found in the veterinary medical literature. This article will not discuss the impact of spay/neuter on population control, or the impact of spay/neuter on behavior.

Nearly all of the health risks and benefits summarized in this article are findings from retrospective epidemiological research studies of dogs, which examine potential associations by looking backwards in time. A few are from prospective research studies, which examine potential associations by looking forward in time.

SUMMARY
An objective reading of the veterinary medical literature reveals a complex situation with respect to the longterm health risks and benefits associated with spay/neuter in dogs. The evidence shows that spay/neuter correlates with both positive AND adverse health effects in dogs. It also suggests how much we really do not yet understand about this subject.

On balance, it appears that no compelling case can be made for neutering most male dogs, especially immature male dogs, in order to prevent future health problems. The number of health problems associated with neutering may exceed the associated health benefits in most cases.

On the positive side, neutering male dogs
• eliminates the small risk (probably <1%) of dying from testicular cancer
• reduces the risk of non-cancerous prostate disorders
• reduces the risk of perianal fistulas
• may possibly reduce the risk of diabetes (data inconclusive) On the negative side, neutering male dogs
• if done before 1 year of age, significantly increases the risk of osteosarcoma (bone cancer); this is a common cancer in medium/large and larger breeds with a poor prognosis.
• increases the risk of cardiac hemangiosarcoma by a factor of 1.6
• triples the risk of hypothyroidism
• increases the risk of progressive geriatric cognitive impairment
• triples the risk of obesity, a common health problem in dogs with many associated health problems • quadruples the small risk (<0.6%) of prostate cancer
• doubles the small risk (<1%) of urinary tract cancers
• increases the risk of orthopedic disorders
• increases the risk of adverse reactions to vaccinations

For female dogs, the situation is more complex. The number of health benefits associated with spaying may exceed the associated health problems in some (not all) cases. On balance, whether spaying improves the odds of overall good health or degrades them probably depends on the age of the female dog and the relative risk of various diseases in the different breeds. On the positive side, spaying female dogs

• if done before 2.5 years of age, greatly reduces the risk of mammary tumors, the most common malignant tumors in female dogs
• nearly eliminates the risk of pyometra, which otherwise would affect about 23% of intact female dogs; pyometra kills about 1% of intact female dogs
• reduces the risk of perianal fistulas
• removes the very small risk (0.5%) from uterine, cervical, and ovarian tumors On the negative side, spaying female dogs
• if done before 1 year of age, significantly increases the risk of osteosarcoma (bone cancer); this is a common cancer in larger breeds with a poor prognosis
• increases the risk of splenic hemangiosarcoma by a factor of 2.2 and cardiac hemangiosarcoma by a factor of >5; this is a common cancer and major cause of death in some breeds
• triples the risk of hypothyroidism
• increases the risk of obesity by a factor of 1.6-2, a common health problem in dogs with many associated health problems
• causes urinary “spay incontinence” in 4-20% of female dogs
• increases the risk of persistent or recurring urinary tract infections by a factor of 3-4
• increases the risk of recessed vulva, vaginal dermatitis, and vaginitis, especially for female dogs spayed before puberty
• doubles the small risk (<1%) of urinary tract tumors
• increases the risk of orthopedic disorders
• increases the risk of adverse reactions to vaccinations One thing is clear – much of the spay/neuter information that is available to the public is unbalanced and contains claims that are exaggerated or unsupported by evidence.

Rather than helping to educate pet owners, much of it has contributed to common misunderstandings about the health risks and benefits associated of spay/neuter in dogs. The traditional spay/neuter age of six months as well as the modern practice of pediatric spay/neuter appear to predispose dogs to health risks that could otherwise be avoided by waiting until the dog is physically mature, or perhaps in the case of many male dogs, foregoing it altogether unless medically necessary.

The balance of long-term health risks and benefits of spay/neuter will vary from one dog to the next. Breed, age, and gender are variables that must be taken into consideration in conjunction with non-medical factors for each individual dog. Across-the-board recommendations for all pet dogs do not appear to be supportable from findings in the veterinary medical literature.

SEE ENTIRE ARTICLE AT: http://www.naiaonline.org/pdfs/LongTermHealthEffectsOfSpayNeuterInDogs.pdf

Separation Anxiety VS. Looking For Something To Do

Separation Anxiety VS. Looking For Something To Do

Separation anxiety (S.A.) symptoms often resemble boredom behaviors, including chewing, dissecting, digging (if dogs are left outside), "accidents" in the house, and excessive vocalization. A close look at your lifestyle will determine if yours is a case of dog anxiety or dog boredom.

Some Dogs Struggle With Modern Lifestyles

According to Raymond and Lorna Coppinger, dogs evolved because humans have inadvertently or intentionally selected for "low flight distance" for millennia - those dogs that were most comfortable in close proximity to humans and their settlements were most likely to receive food from humans. Closeness to humans conferred a reproductive advantage for dogs through increased access to resources.

Traditionally, this arrangement worked well for dogs. Then and in many rural areas today, leashes or fences were few or non-existent. Dogs could roam off-leash, greeting other dogs, chasing squirrels, rabbits, deer, woodchucks, cats, and the occasional skunk or porcupine. Crashing happily through woods, fields, and streams, dogs exercised their bodies and all their senses. Many worked closely with their owners all day hunting, herding, carting, or guarding. These dogs would then return home exhausted, crash on the floor to happily receive belly rubs, and sleep until morning. Very few dogs living this type of lifestyle suffer from separation anxiety.

Automobile traffic makes this type of lifestyle dangerous for dogs now, and busy modern lifestyles and long working days make similar stimulations impractical and out of reach for most dog owners. This is a conflict of interests - what is in the best interest of the dog (plentiful mental and physical stimulation) conflicts with the owner's desire to relax after a long day.

Ask Not What Your Dog Can Do For You, But What You Are Doing For Your Dog

How much exercise does your dog get? How much daily training? How often do you play with her? How long are you separated each day? How often does she socialize with other dogs appropriately?

Many dogs have deficits in socialization (with humans and dogs), mental stimulation (training, toys, play), and/or physical stimulation (running, swimming, walking, hiking, playing). Make sure to provide your dog with an opportunity to engage in all three daily. If dogs are not provided with this stimulation, boredom digging, chewing, barking, will likely ensue. Fulfilling basic needs remedies behavior problems related to boredom.

Puppy Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety can take root in puppyhood - now is the time for prevention. It is always better to prevent than un-train; so provide your puppy with "stuff to do" in your absence (stuffed Kongs, a visit from a puppy walker to play/walk), and always remember to make entries and exits to the home very low key (these are good tips for adult dogs as well!). Practice separation as a behavior, starting with a small duration and gradually building as your dog is successful.

If you must say goodbye to your dog, do it well before you plan on leaving (at least a half hour in advance) and get it out of the way - remember that this is for your benefit - not your dog's; dramatic goodbyes will only teach her that separation is cause for stress. Wait for calm behavior before greeting your dog upon your return home, and keep the greetings quiet, relaxed.

Identifying Separation Anxiety In Dogs

If your dog's basic needs are being met and you still suspect separation anxiety, look for the following symptoms: extreme destruction of property or self (tearing walls apart, bloodying paws trying to escape from a crate, breaking or cracking of teeth trying to escape the house or enter if left outside, anorexia/inability to drink fluids when left alone, inability to be separated from you (even briefly, in another room) while you're at home, and anxiety behavior related to one specific individual in the household (dog is not relieved by the presence of other household members in the absence of the attachment figure). If you note these symptoms in your dog, consult with a behavioral professional for guidance.

Dog Separation Anxiety Solutions

Dog separation anxiety treatment should include desensitization and counter-conditioning to the attachment figure's absence as well as the environmental cues which predict her absence (grabbing keys, putting coat/shoes on, sunglasses, starting the car, etc.). For extreme cases, it is best to bring a veterinary behaviorist into the rehabilitation team, as some S.A. dogs can benefit from conventional or alternative medical treatments. For dogs with hormonal or neuro-chemical imbalances, desensitization and counter-conditioning may need to be accompanied by medication or supplementation. For these dogs, neither medical nor behavioral treatment will be successful without the other.

Courtesy of Dogster www.dogster.com