Dog "owner" versus "guardian" - Words matter!
N.H. Sunday News - Dog Tracks Column - 5/25/08By: Gail T. Fisher
Words matter. In 1999, In Defense of Animals (IDA) an animal rights group located in the San Francisco Bay area, began a movement to change the word that refers to those of us who pay for our pets’ food, vet bills, housing, and even the purchase of the pet (dog, cat, gerbil, parakeet, goldfish, horse – you name it). The IDA started referring to “owners” as “guardians.” Seems innocent, doesn’t it? How can someone mind such a nice (and seemingly harmless), warm and fuzzy term like “guardian” over “owner?” So the person who pays $1200 to a pure-bred dog breeder, $300 to a rescue organization for a dog of uncertain parentage, adopts a free puppy or kitten from a friend, or pays hundreds of thousands for a thoroughbred racehorse would not “own” that animal; they would be its “guardian.”
Advocates for this change express the opinion that guardianship will lead to better treatment of pets – that somehow a “guardian” is kinder, gentler, and more responsible than an “owner.” What flawed and ridiculous reasoning to think that what one calls oneself affects overall behavior. If this were the case, no parent – or “guardian” – would ever abuse a child; Laci Peterson and her unborn child would not have been murdered by her “loving spouse.”
Much like “a rose by any name,” changing the word from “owner” to “guardian” simply means that abusive people will abuse their pets by a different title. But there is a much greater issue at stake.
For those who may think, “What difference does it make? Calling myself my dog’s ‘guardian’ is fine with me.” It makes a great deal of difference. Words matter – and if we pet owners are not aware of it, and don’t take a stand, we are in danger of losing our rights to have and keep pets.
As I wrote last week, there are two animal movements in this battle: the animal “rights” movement versus animal “welfare.” Animal welfare is based on the belief that we humans have a moral obligation to treat animals humanely and responsibly.
Animal rights organizations, on the other hand, see absolutely no difference between humans and any other live being. Michael Fox, a senior scholar at the Humane Society of the U.S. (HSUS – an animal rights organization) said it all when he wrote, “The life of an ant and that of my child should be granted equal consideration.” I have nothing against ants (unless they’re trying to destroy my house – in which case it’s me versus the ants!), but one has to feel compassion for Dr. Fox’s child!In researching this topic, I came across countless quotes equally or even more incredible than this, as well as a number of articles outlining the subtle movement toward achieving the Animal Rights agenda, including the legal implications of “guardian” versus “owner.”
Let’s start with our founding document, the U.S. Constitution, which gives citizens the right to “own” property, and not be deprived of that property without Due Process of Law. “Guardians” have no such rights. If you think that no one cares enough to want to deprive you of your rights of “guardianship,” look no further than the Animal Rights organizations, with PETA at the helm.Ingrid Newkirk, co-founder and President of PETA wrote of her vision for the future of our pets: “[A]s the surplus of cats and dogs (artificially engineered by centuries of forced breeding) declined, eventually companion animals would be phased out, and we would return to a more symbiotic relationship -- enjoyment at ‘a distance.’”Newkirk envisions undomesticating dogs and cats to live feral existences much the way strays in 3rd world countries do, surviving by foraging at dumpsites and eating food scraps tossed at them as people feed pigeons in a park.
Having just adopted a stray dog rescued in a foreign land, and having assimilated him beautifully into our home, our lives and our hearts, I can too-easily envision his struggle to survive, slowly dying of the heartworm with which he was infested when he was first captured. Newkirk’s vision is not a world I want for him or any dog or cat.Taking the concept of “guardianship” a step further, guardians are appointed or removed by judges, often without a hearing or trial, simply relying on testimony from an “interested party.” Do any of us want to turn over our rights of ownership – our basic, decision-making rights about what to feed, whether or not to spay, neuter or breed, or what method of training to use – to the courts?
To quote from an article by Attorney Genny Wall http://www.nfss.org/Legis/AR-alerts/Companion/Comp-Wall-1.html “If we are ‘Guardians’ rather than owners, then ultimately it will be the State, and not the individual, who has the power to say who will care for the animal, how it will be cared for, where it will reside, what medical treatments it will or will not undergo, and who will make all the other decisions regarding the health, welfare, life and death, or destruction, of that animal. … [H]istory has shown us that when a State is unprepared to carry out a role that has been imposed upon it, [it] delegates that function. So…who will the States delegate to? The former ‘Owners?’ The citizenry at large? Animal Control? USDA? Animal Rights organizations? Local or national rescue organizations?
What is the point of making the State the owner of animals if the State is not prepared to perform this function and must delegate this right and duty? It seems pointless to engage in this kind of useless legislation, if in fact the goal is to make things better for animals. But as I have said, that is not the real purpose behind the push for ‘Guardianship’ for animals.
“So, what is the true purpose behind this push for using the term ‘Guardian’? From my legal perspective I see that purpose to be to achieve public acceptance for the concept of animal ‘Guardians’ in a general sense, so that the door can be opened to animal rights activists who don't believe humans should have or keep animals and who seek the removal of animals from their owners on simple, perhaps unfounded, allegations of abuse or neglect.”
The bottom line for us as pet owners is that if PETA, HSUS, and other animal rights organizations have their way, our legal rights, advantages and choices as dog “owners” will slowly be eaten away until they disappear. The word matters!
Animal Owners Need to know....
Reductions in the rights of owners and imposition of additional legal obligations—With respect to veterinary care, animal owners will have less authority and fewer treatment options. Required treatment may exceed the financial capacity of the owner to pay, yet guardianship will require that owners accept such financial burdens. Financial inability to provide treatment could easily result in increased animal abandonment.
Entailment of wards—Use of guardian gives rise to its counterpart "ward." The ward is defined as the person for whose benefit the guardianship has been established. Wards have legal rights. Applying human guardianship law to animals would mean that animals have legal rights that can be recognized in court (i.e., animals would have legal standing). This may subject owners to civil lawsuits filed by third parties on behalf of the animal.
Inability to select procedures such as euthanasia or spay/neuter—Owners wishing to relieve animal suffering by euthanasia may no longer have that option. Non-health justifications for euthanasia, including population control, may no longer be acceptable under guardianship. Spaying and neutering may also not be possible, if such procedures were not deemed to be in the best interest of the animal.
Confidentiality of veterinary information and control of medical records—Where confidentiality of veterinary medical records is governed by state statutes or regulations, conditions are defined under which and to whom medical records may or must be released. Generally owners have authority over release of their animals' medical records. Under guardianship, a veterinarian, contrary to the owner's wishes, may be able to release information to third parties because he/she believes it is in the best interest of the animal. Conversely, the veterinarian may choose not to release medical records to the owner or others because he/she believes it is not in the animal's best interest to do so.
Ability to transfer an animal to another party—Background checks may be required to ensure that transfer of an animal from one guardian to another is in the best interest of the animal. Transfer of guardianship from one guardian to another, for profit, may not be legal. Third parties may have the opportunity to impede transfer proceedings if they deem such action to be in the best interest of the animal.
Coverage of animal-related claims by homeowners' insurance—Homeowners' property loss insurance may no longer cover animal-related claims should animals be no longer defined as property under the law. Under guardianship, animals would no longer be considered property.
Required registration as guardian—In states having guardian registries, animal guardians may be required to register and to comply with all laws and regulations pertaining to that registration. Requirements for registration could include background checks, bonding, and conflict-of-interest evaluations. Registration processes are time-consuming and potentially costly.
Annual guardianship reports—Animal guardians may be required to file annual guardianship reports, including associated financial reports.
Sunday, March 8, 2009
Saturday, February 28, 2009
If You're Aggressive, Your Dog Will Be Too, Says Veterinary Study
If You're Aggressive, Your Dog Will Be Too, Says Veterinary Study
ScienceDaily (Feb. 18, 2009) — In a new, year-long University of Pennsylvania survey of dog owners who use confrontational or aversive methods to train aggressive pets, veterinary researchers have found that most of these animals will continue to be aggressive unless training techniques are modified.
The study, published in the current issue of Applied Animal Behavior Science, also showed that using non-aversive or neutral training methods such as additional exercise or rewards elicited very few aggressive responses.
“Nationwide, the No. 1 reason why dog owners take their pet to a veterinary behaviorist is to manage aggressive behavior,” Meghan E. Herron, lead author of the study, said. “Our study demonstrated that many confrontational training methods, whether staring down dogs, striking them or intimidating them with physical manipulation does little to correct improper behavior and can elicit aggressive responses.”
The team from the School of Veterinary Medicine at Penn suggest that primary-care veterinarians advise owners of the risks associated with such training methods and provide guidance and resources for safe management of behavior problems. Herron, Frances S. Shofer and Ilana R. Reisner, veterinarians with the Department of Clinical Studies at Penn Vet, produced a 30-item survey for dog owners who made behavioral service appointments at Penn Vet. In the questionnaire, dog owners were asked how they had previously treated aggressive behavior, whether there was a positive, negative or neutral effect on the dogs’ behavior and whether aggressive responses resulted from the method they used. Owners were also asked where they learned of the training technique they employed.
Of the 140 surveys completed, the most frequently listed recommendation sources were “self” and “trainers.” Several confrontational methods such as “hit or kick dog for undesirable behavior” (43 percent), “growl at dog” (41 percent), “physically force the release of an item from a dog's mouth” (39 percent), “alpha roll”physically -- rolling the dog onto its back and holding it (31 percent), “stare at or stare down” (30 percent), “dominance down” —- physically forcing the dog down onto its side (29 percent) and “grab dog by jowls and shake” (26 percent) elicited an aggressive response from at least 25 percent of the dogs on which they were attempted. In addition, dogs brought to the hospital for aggressive behavior towards familiar people were more likely to respond aggressively to some confrontational techniques than dogs brought in for other behavioral reasons.
“This study highlights the risk of dominance-based training, which has been made popular by TV, books and punishment-based training advocates,”Herron said. “These techniques are fear-eliciting and may lead to owner-directed aggression.”
Prior to seeking the counsel of a veterinary behaviorist, many dog owners attempt behavior-modification techniques suggested by a variety of sources. Recommendations often include the aversive-training techniques listed in the survey, all of which may provoke fearful or defensively aggressive behavior. Their common use may have grown from the idea that canine aggression is rooted in the need for social dominance or to a lack of dominance displayed by the owner. Advocates of this theory therefore suggest owners establish an “alpha” or pack-leader role.
The purpose of the Penn Vet study was to assess the behavioral effects and safety risks of techniques used historically by owners of dogs with behavior problems.
Adapted from materials provided by University of Pennsylvania.
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University of Pennsylvania (2009, February 18). If You're Aggressive, Your Dog Will Be Too, Says Veterinary Study. ScienceDaily. Retrieved February 27, 2009, from http://www.sciencedaily.com /releases/2009/02/090217141540.htm
ScienceDaily (Feb. 18, 2009) — In a new, year-long University of Pennsylvania survey of dog owners who use confrontational or aversive methods to train aggressive pets, veterinary researchers have found that most of these animals will continue to be aggressive unless training techniques are modified.
The study, published in the current issue of Applied Animal Behavior Science, also showed that using non-aversive or neutral training methods such as additional exercise or rewards elicited very few aggressive responses.
“Nationwide, the No. 1 reason why dog owners take their pet to a veterinary behaviorist is to manage aggressive behavior,” Meghan E. Herron, lead author of the study, said. “Our study demonstrated that many confrontational training methods, whether staring down dogs, striking them or intimidating them with physical manipulation does little to correct improper behavior and can elicit aggressive responses.”
The team from the School of Veterinary Medicine at Penn suggest that primary-care veterinarians advise owners of the risks associated with such training methods and provide guidance and resources for safe management of behavior problems. Herron, Frances S. Shofer and Ilana R. Reisner, veterinarians with the Department of Clinical Studies at Penn Vet, produced a 30-item survey for dog owners who made behavioral service appointments at Penn Vet. In the questionnaire, dog owners were asked how they had previously treated aggressive behavior, whether there was a positive, negative or neutral effect on the dogs’ behavior and whether aggressive responses resulted from the method they used. Owners were also asked where they learned of the training technique they employed.
Of the 140 surveys completed, the most frequently listed recommendation sources were “self” and “trainers.” Several confrontational methods such as “hit or kick dog for undesirable behavior” (43 percent), “growl at dog” (41 percent), “physically force the release of an item from a dog's mouth” (39 percent), “alpha roll”physically -- rolling the dog onto its back and holding it (31 percent), “stare at or stare down” (30 percent), “dominance down” —- physically forcing the dog down onto its side (29 percent) and “grab dog by jowls and shake” (26 percent) elicited an aggressive response from at least 25 percent of the dogs on which they were attempted. In addition, dogs brought to the hospital for aggressive behavior towards familiar people were more likely to respond aggressively to some confrontational techniques than dogs brought in for other behavioral reasons.
“This study highlights the risk of dominance-based training, which has been made popular by TV, books and punishment-based training advocates,”Herron said. “These techniques are fear-eliciting and may lead to owner-directed aggression.”
Prior to seeking the counsel of a veterinary behaviorist, many dog owners attempt behavior-modification techniques suggested by a variety of sources. Recommendations often include the aversive-training techniques listed in the survey, all of which may provoke fearful or defensively aggressive behavior. Their common use may have grown from the idea that canine aggression is rooted in the need for social dominance or to a lack of dominance displayed by the owner. Advocates of this theory therefore suggest owners establish an “alpha” or pack-leader role.
The purpose of the Penn Vet study was to assess the behavioral effects and safety risks of techniques used historically by owners of dogs with behavior problems.
Adapted from materials provided by University of Pennsylvania.
Email or share this story:
Need to cite this story in your essay, paper, or report? Use one of the following formats:
APA
MLA
University of Pennsylvania (2009, February 18). If You're Aggressive, Your Dog Will Be Too, Says Veterinary Study. ScienceDaily. Retrieved February 27, 2009, from http://www.sciencedaily.com /releases/2009/02/090217141540.htm
Friday, February 27, 2009
Classes & Workshops!
Polite Greetings and Leash Walking
Does your dog's pulling or jumping embarrass you? Or maybe you just want your arm back in its socket and the scratches on your legs to heal. Whatever your reasons for teaching your dog not to jump up during greetings and to walk politely on leash, it's a great idea! Just $80 includes workbook and snacks (for Alumni the cost is on $50)
Sat April 8, 2009 5:00-7:00 pm
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Help out the Shelter Night
Come make pull toys for the dogs for of Dakin Animal Shelter. This wonderful night you will be enriching the life of a dog at the shelter while making a toy for you beloved fur-ball. Supplies cost is $15, please bring a dish to share.
Join us! April 23 6-7:30
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Focus, Control and Recall EVERYTIME
This workshop is like two workshops in one, learn to keep your dogs
focus, in any situations including dog parks, around those pesky
squirrels, learn come when called EVERYTIME ™and so much more. Fee is
$95 (Alumni cost is just $60) and workbook limited to 5
students
Saturday April 25, 9:30-1:00
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Pet First Aid,
This informative class, will be based on American Red Cross Pet First Aid and experience as an vet tech and EMT skills. This hands-on class teaches the needed skills to deal with an emergency or animal injury. How to make your own first aid kit. Limited to 6 students. Fee is $50 includes class, refreshments provided (no dogs please) Will use stuffed animals, will one real dog. Books will be available for sale that night.
Saturday April 25 2009; 4-6:30pm
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Pet Nutrition-what the pet food companies don’t want you to know..., (include coffee and muffins & Danish) Get the Facts real fact on dog food, treats and so much more, limited to 10 students. Fee is $40 includes class, handouts (no dog please)
April 30th at 6:30-8pm
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Massage Work & Aroma Therapy for your Canine and yourself!
This special class is taught Linda Jackson from Centre for Acupuncture (www.centreforacupuncture.com) Linda will share her 27 years experience with participants. This class is limited to just 8 students and their dogs. The class will cover basic and advanced canine massage, stretches, the use of aroma therapy and so much more. Fee is $95 includes class, supplies is provided. Limited to 8 students!
May 3, 9:30-1:00
Private Massage Sessions are also available following the workshop on May 3. These wonderful private sessions are just $40. Sessions fill VERY quickly! Sessions are 30 mins each from 1:30-3pm. Also there will be a monthly private sessions scheduled. Future dates to be scheduled at the May workshop.
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Overcoming Fears! is your dog or you afraid of certain situations? Is you dog afraid of something (or everything) in his world. Do you feel like you are loosing your mind? This class goal is overcome his fears of children, dogs, loud noises, etc. This workshop fee includes refreshments $75.00 No Dogs!
Thurs May 14 6-7 pm
Classes
GREAT START PUPPY CLASS OPEN ENROLLMENT for puppies between 8 weeks-20 weeks, Class covers puppy-hood 101, the basic commands including sit, come when called, and stay among others. Socialization…Socialization, what it is, how to do it right and so much more to make your canine a good canine citizen! Skills covered include housebreaking, chewing, polite greetings, no begging, and no jumping, among others. This class is full of helpful information and participating in it will help build a better relationship with your dog. Just $140
Class meets Sundays 5:15-6:15 Join anytime!
Manners 101 How are your dog's manners? This 8-week class covers basic commands including sit, come when called, and stay among others. Skills covered include polite greetings, no begging, and no jumping, among others. This class is full of helpful information and participating in it will help build a better relationship with your dog. Just $160 for 8 weeks
Sat March 7-April 25 @ 8-9 am
Tues March 10-April 28 6-7 pm
Therapy Dog ClassThe focus of this class is on preparing the handler and dog for the therapy environment. This class is ideal for both the novice and experienced handler. This class will include field trips into the community to gain skills. Skills include working around medical equipment, loud noises, food, toys, and other distractions. Topics covered include stress and calming signals in dogs, infection control, medical ethics, general liability, and handling difficult visitation situations. Fee is $125 Limited to 6 students
Sat March 14-April 18 @ 10-11am
Agility for Beginner and IntermediateThis will allow you to explore the fastest growing dog sport and take their skills to the next level. You and your dog will learn trust and teamwork as your progress your skills and with sequencing obstacles and learn the footwork needed to be successful in the sport of agility. Your dog will jump through tires, tunnels, and weave poles, walk up ramps and much more. (Dogs must be a minimum of 5 months. for health and safety reasons) This 8 week class is limited to 6 dogs, fee is just $160
Tues March 10-April 28 @ 7-8 pm
Experience Handler Class: This class is ideal for the handler and dog with some experience under their collar and want to take there skills to the next level and improve their relationship. This group class covers relationship building skills. Class will cover improving your off leash walking; come when called with intense distractions; distance work, advanced sits and downs and other commands, intro to Rally –O, play with the agility equipment just to name a few. This wonderful class meets for 10 weeks. Fee is only $190 Limited to 8 handlers
Monday March 30, 2009 6:30-7:30 pm
Trick, Targets and games oh my…. This fun on going class is for graduates of 102 and above, this class will cover tricks and the art of drill team. We will cover marching, tricks are varied by the group, other skills cover is shaping and targeting, We will spend equal time on learning how to march and become a working, active drill team. There will be some small additional fees for such things as a drill/trick team t-shirt and other related items. Donations welcome in lieu of formal fee suggested donations $10. Limited to 12 handlers teams
Mondays 5:30-6:30 pm
Graduate Handling and Training: is for the most experienced handlers. This class will focus on skill building, the ultimate distractions while maintaining focus, social skills and so much more. This wonderful class will explore a variety of training skills, theories and sports; including drill team, free style, rally-o and agility, and so much more. This class is open to students with the desire to improve and bond more with their dog, the fee is $600 for this 6 months class. Limited to 8 students ONLY 2 spaces currently open (pro-rated rate)
Jan – June 2009 Sunday @ 8:30-9:30 am this on-going class
Aggression..... what is it REALLY???
A dog's bark may be worse than his bite, but most of us would rather not find out one way or the other. Growling, baring teeth, snarling, snapping, and biting are all aggressive behaviors—but dog aggression includes any behavior meant to intimidate or harm a person or another animal. Although these messages are among the handful of communication tools available to dogs, they're generally unacceptable to humans. Because humans and dogs have different communication systems, misunderstandings can occur between the two species.
But from a dog's perspective, there's always a reason for aggressive behavior. A person may intend to be friendly, but a dog may perceive that person's behavior as threatening or intimidating. Dogs aren't being schizophrenic, psychotic, crazy, or necessarily "vicious" when displaying aggressive behavior.
Because aggression is so complex, and because the potential consequences are so serious, we recommend that you get professional in-home help from an animal behavior specialist if your dog is displaying aggressive behavior.
Types of Aggression
Dominance Aggression: Dominance aggression is motivated by a challenge to a dog's social status or to his control of a social interaction. Dogs are social animals and view their human families as their social group or "pack." Based on the outcomes of social challenges among group members, a dominance hierarchy or "pecking order" is established.
If your dog perceives his own ranking in the hierarchy to be higher than yours, he'll probably challenge you in certain situations. Because people don't always understand canine communication, you may inadvertently challenge your dog's social position. A dominantly aggressive dog may growl if he is disturbed when resting or sleeping or if he is asked to give up a favorite spot, such as the couch or the bed. Physical restraint, even when done in a friendly manner (like hugging), may also cause your dog to respond aggressively. Reaching for your dog's collar, or reaching over his head to pet him, could also be interpreted as a challenge for dominance. Dominantly aggressive dogs are often described as "Jekyll and Hydes" because they can be very friendly when not challenged. Dominance aggression may be directed at people or at other animals. The most common reason for fights among dogs in the same family is instability in the dominance hierarchy.
Fear-Motivated Aggression: Fear-motivated aggression is a defensive reaction and occurs when a dog believes he is in danger of being harmed. Remember that it's your dog's perception of the situation, not your actual intent, which determines your dog's response. For example, you may raise your arm to throw a ball, but your dog may bite you because he believes he's protecting himself from being hit. A dog may also be fearfully aggressive when approached by other dogs.
Protective, Territorial, and Possessive Aggression: Protective, territorial, and possessive aggression are all very similar, and involve the defense of valuable resources. Territorial aggression is usually associated with defense of property, and that "territory" may extend well past the boundaries of your yard. For example, if you regularly walk your dog around the neighborhood and allow him to urine-mark, he may think his territory includes the entire block. Protective aggression usually refers to aggression directed toward people or animals whom a dog perceives as threats to his family, or pack. Dogs become possessively aggressive when defending their food, toys, or other valued objects, including items as peculiar as tissues stolen from the trash.
Redirected Aggression: This is a relatively common type of aggression but one that is often misunderstood by pet owners. If a dog is somehow provoked by a person or animal he is unable to attack, he may redirect this aggression onto someone else. For example, two family dogs may become excited, and bark and growl in response to another dog passing through the front yard; or two dogs confined behind a fence may turn and attack each other because they can't attack an intruder. Predation is usually considered to be a unique kind of aggressive behavior because it's motivated by the intent to obtain food, and not primarily by the intent to harm or intimidate.
Individual Variation
The likelihood of a dog to show aggressive behavior in any particular situation varies markedly from dog to dog. Some dogs tend to respond aggressively with very little stimulation. Others may be subjected to all kinds of threatening stimuli and events and yet never attempt to bite.
The difference in the threshold prompting aggressive behavior is influenced by both environmental and genetic factors. If this threshold is low, a dog will be more likely to bite. Raising the threshold makes a dog less likely to respond aggressively. This threshold can be raised using behavior modification techniques, but the potential for change is influenced by a dog's gender, age, breed, general temperament, and the way in which the behavior modification techniques are chosen and implemented.
Because working with aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous, behavior modification techniques should only be attempted by, or under the guidance of, an experienced animal behavior professional who understands animal learning theory and behavior.
What You Can Do:
First, check with your veterinarian to rule out medical causes for the aggressive behavior.
Seek professional advice. An aggression problem will not go away by itself. Working with aggression problems requires in-home help from an animal behavior specialist.
Take precautions. Your first priority is to keep people and other animals safe. Supervise, confine, and/or restrict your dog's activities until you can obtain professional guidance. You are liable for your dog's behavior. If you must take your dog out in public, consider a cage-type muzzle as a temporary precaution, and remember that some dogs are clever enough to get a muzzle off.
Avoid exposing your dog to situations where he is more likely to show aggression. You may need to keep him confined to a safe room and limit his contact with people.
If your dog is possessive of toys or treats, or territorial in certain locations, prevent access and you'll prevent the problem. In an emergency, bribe him with something better than what he has. For example, if he steals your shoe, trade him the shoe for a piece of chicken.
Spay or neuter your dog. Intact dogs are more likely to display dominance, territorial, and protective aggressive behavior.
What NOT to Do:
Punishment won't help and, in fact, will often make the problem worse. If the aggression is motivated by fear, punishment will make your dog more fearful, and therefore more aggressive. Attempting to punish or dominate a dominantly aggressive dog may actually lead him to escalate his behavior to retain his dominant position. This is likely to result in a bite or a severe attack. Punishing territorial, possessive, or protective aggression is likely to elicit additional defensive aggression.
© 2002. Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. All rights reserved.
But from a dog's perspective, there's always a reason for aggressive behavior. A person may intend to be friendly, but a dog may perceive that person's behavior as threatening or intimidating. Dogs aren't being schizophrenic, psychotic, crazy, or necessarily "vicious" when displaying aggressive behavior.
Because aggression is so complex, and because the potential consequences are so serious, we recommend that you get professional in-home help from an animal behavior specialist if your dog is displaying aggressive behavior.
Types of Aggression
Dominance Aggression: Dominance aggression is motivated by a challenge to a dog's social status or to his control of a social interaction. Dogs are social animals and view their human families as their social group or "pack." Based on the outcomes of social challenges among group members, a dominance hierarchy or "pecking order" is established.
If your dog perceives his own ranking in the hierarchy to be higher than yours, he'll probably challenge you in certain situations. Because people don't always understand canine communication, you may inadvertently challenge your dog's social position. A dominantly aggressive dog may growl if he is disturbed when resting or sleeping or if he is asked to give up a favorite spot, such as the couch or the bed. Physical restraint, even when done in a friendly manner (like hugging), may also cause your dog to respond aggressively. Reaching for your dog's collar, or reaching over his head to pet him, could also be interpreted as a challenge for dominance. Dominantly aggressive dogs are often described as "Jekyll and Hydes" because they can be very friendly when not challenged. Dominance aggression may be directed at people or at other animals. The most common reason for fights among dogs in the same family is instability in the dominance hierarchy.
Fear-Motivated Aggression: Fear-motivated aggression is a defensive reaction and occurs when a dog believes he is in danger of being harmed. Remember that it's your dog's perception of the situation, not your actual intent, which determines your dog's response. For example, you may raise your arm to throw a ball, but your dog may bite you because he believes he's protecting himself from being hit. A dog may also be fearfully aggressive when approached by other dogs.
Protective, Territorial, and Possessive Aggression: Protective, territorial, and possessive aggression are all very similar, and involve the defense of valuable resources. Territorial aggression is usually associated with defense of property, and that "territory" may extend well past the boundaries of your yard. For example, if you regularly walk your dog around the neighborhood and allow him to urine-mark, he may think his territory includes the entire block. Protective aggression usually refers to aggression directed toward people or animals whom a dog perceives as threats to his family, or pack. Dogs become possessively aggressive when defending their food, toys, or other valued objects, including items as peculiar as tissues stolen from the trash.
Redirected Aggression: This is a relatively common type of aggression but one that is often misunderstood by pet owners. If a dog is somehow provoked by a person or animal he is unable to attack, he may redirect this aggression onto someone else. For example, two family dogs may become excited, and bark and growl in response to another dog passing through the front yard; or two dogs confined behind a fence may turn and attack each other because they can't attack an intruder. Predation is usually considered to be a unique kind of aggressive behavior because it's motivated by the intent to obtain food, and not primarily by the intent to harm or intimidate.
Individual Variation
The likelihood of a dog to show aggressive behavior in any particular situation varies markedly from dog to dog. Some dogs tend to respond aggressively with very little stimulation. Others may be subjected to all kinds of threatening stimuli and events and yet never attempt to bite.
The difference in the threshold prompting aggressive behavior is influenced by both environmental and genetic factors. If this threshold is low, a dog will be more likely to bite. Raising the threshold makes a dog less likely to respond aggressively. This threshold can be raised using behavior modification techniques, but the potential for change is influenced by a dog's gender, age, breed, general temperament, and the way in which the behavior modification techniques are chosen and implemented.
Because working with aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous, behavior modification techniques should only be attempted by, or under the guidance of, an experienced animal behavior professional who understands animal learning theory and behavior.
What You Can Do:
First, check with your veterinarian to rule out medical causes for the aggressive behavior.
Seek professional advice. An aggression problem will not go away by itself. Working with aggression problems requires in-home help from an animal behavior specialist.
Take precautions. Your first priority is to keep people and other animals safe. Supervise, confine, and/or restrict your dog's activities until you can obtain professional guidance. You are liable for your dog's behavior. If you must take your dog out in public, consider a cage-type muzzle as a temporary precaution, and remember that some dogs are clever enough to get a muzzle off.
Avoid exposing your dog to situations where he is more likely to show aggression. You may need to keep him confined to a safe room and limit his contact with people.
If your dog is possessive of toys or treats, or territorial in certain locations, prevent access and you'll prevent the problem. In an emergency, bribe him with something better than what he has. For example, if he steals your shoe, trade him the shoe for a piece of chicken.
Spay or neuter your dog. Intact dogs are more likely to display dominance, territorial, and protective aggressive behavior.
What NOT to Do:
Punishment won't help and, in fact, will often make the problem worse. If the aggression is motivated by fear, punishment will make your dog more fearful, and therefore more aggressive. Attempting to punish or dominate a dominantly aggressive dog may actually lead him to escalate his behavior to retain his dominant position. This is likely to result in a bite or a severe attack. Punishing territorial, possessive, or protective aggression is likely to elicit additional defensive aggression.
© 2002. Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. All rights reserved.
Thursday, February 26, 2009
What is Clicker Training
"Clicker Training" is a slang term used to describe a way of training animals that has become increasingly popular in the last decade because of its gentle methods. The scientific term for it is operant conditioning.
What is Operant Conditioning?
Operant conditioning is the way any animal (including the human kind) interacts with and learns from its environment. Simply put, an animal tends to repeat an action that has a positive consequence and tends not to repeat one that has a negative consequence. Trainers can take advantage of that natural tendency by providing positive reinforcement following an action that they want the animal to repeat. In order for the animal to connect the positive reinforcement to the behavior that he is doing, the reinforcement must happen AS the behavior is occurring, not afterwards. The actual reinforcement can't always be gotten to the animal at that precise instant, however.
Trainers needed to find another way of letting the animal know that he was doing the right thing, so they began using a conditioned reinforcer. A conditioned reinforcer is anything that wouldn't ordinarily be something the animal would work to get. A primary reinforcer, on the other hand, is something that the animal automatically finds reinforcing, such as food or water. When a conditioned reinforcer is paired with a primary reinforcer, they become of equal importance to the animal. Enter the clicker as a conditioned reinforcer.
The Clicker is generally a small plastic box with a metal strip that makes a sharp, clicking sound when pushed and released. It can be any sound really. What makes the clicker so effective its value is that the unique sound doesn't get lost in the babble of words we are constantly throwing at our dogs. It is faster than saying "Good dog!" and allows the trainer to mark with great precision the behavior for which the dog is being reinforced. Paired with something the animal finds very reinforcing such as food or playtime with a toy, the clicker becomes a powerful tool for shaping behavior.
Leading the Way offers all level of clicker training....
When you shape behavior, you reinforce closer and closer approximations of the actual behavior you are looking for. For instance, if you are trying to teach your dog to "shake hands" you would click and treat at first if he simply raised his paw just a bit off the ground. As you progressed, you would stop reinforcing a slight raise of the paw. You would now require that the paw is raised higher, and then the paw would have to come towards you, etc. Breaking the behavior down into TINY steps allows progress to be made quickly.
What is Operant Conditioning?
Operant conditioning is the way any animal (including the human kind) interacts with and learns from its environment. Simply put, an animal tends to repeat an action that has a positive consequence and tends not to repeat one that has a negative consequence. Trainers can take advantage of that natural tendency by providing positive reinforcement following an action that they want the animal to repeat. In order for the animal to connect the positive reinforcement to the behavior that he is doing, the reinforcement must happen AS the behavior is occurring, not afterwards. The actual reinforcement can't always be gotten to the animal at that precise instant, however.
Trainers needed to find another way of letting the animal know that he was doing the right thing, so they began using a conditioned reinforcer. A conditioned reinforcer is anything that wouldn't ordinarily be something the animal would work to get. A primary reinforcer, on the other hand, is something that the animal automatically finds reinforcing, such as food or water. When a conditioned reinforcer is paired with a primary reinforcer, they become of equal importance to the animal. Enter the clicker as a conditioned reinforcer.
The Clicker is generally a small plastic box with a metal strip that makes a sharp, clicking sound when pushed and released. It can be any sound really. What makes the clicker so effective its value is that the unique sound doesn't get lost in the babble of words we are constantly throwing at our dogs. It is faster than saying "Good dog!" and allows the trainer to mark with great precision the behavior for which the dog is being reinforced. Paired with something the animal finds very reinforcing such as food or playtime with a toy, the clicker becomes a powerful tool for shaping behavior.
Leading the Way offers all level of clicker training....
When you shape behavior, you reinforce closer and closer approximations of the actual behavior you are looking for. For instance, if you are trying to teach your dog to "shake hands" you would click and treat at first if he simply raised his paw just a bit off the ground. As you progressed, you would stop reinforcing a slight raise of the paw. You would now require that the paw is raised higher, and then the paw would have to come towards you, etc. Breaking the behavior down into TINY steps allows progress to be made quickly.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Bring on the treats!
Bran 'n Cheese Balls
This cheese dog treat recipe is super easy.
1/4 cup Cheddar cheese, grated
1/4 cup Swiss cheese, grated
1/4 teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 cup Bran Flakes (crumbled)
Combine cheeses, garlic and oil. Using plastic wrap, shape mixture into a log about 1 inch in diameter and 8 inches long. Roll log in crumbled Bran Flakes.
Refrigerate for about an hour. Slice into 1/2-inch rounds and serve.
Makes about 16 treats.
Microwave Doggie Cookies:
2 cups whole wheat flour
3 tbs. oatmeal
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 tsp garlic powder
2/3 cups beef or chicken broth
Place flour in a bowl, add egg & broth. Mix well. Blend in oatmeal & garlic powder. Roll dough into a ball, roll out on a lightly floured surface to 1/2 inch thick. Cut with small cookie cutters. Arrange on a dish and bake in microwave for 5-8 minutes on high or until firm.
Best Buds Dog Biscuits Recipe
1 cup whole wheat flour
½ cup all-purpose flour
¾ cup nonfat dry milk powder
½ cup oats, rolled (raw) -- quick cooking
½ cup yellow cornmeal
1 teaspoon sugar
Cut in 1/3 cup shortening until mix is coarse crumbs. Stir in 1 egg. Dissolve 1 tablespoon instant chicken or beef bouillon granules in ½ cup water. Stir liquid into flour mix with a fork. Form dough into a ball and knead on floured board for 5 minutes. Divide ball in half and roll each portion until ½ inch thick. Use a cookie cutter or shape biscuits. Put 6 on a plate and microwave at medium for 5 to 10 minutes or until firm and dry to touch. Turn biscuits over after ½ cooking time
Homemade Frosty Paws
• 1 Quart plain or vanilla yogurt
• 1 banana or 1 lrg jar banana baby food
• 2 Tbsp peanut butter
• 2 Tbsp honey
• 2 Tbsp carob powder (optional)
If using regular banana mash well....mix all ingredients until well blended ( you could use a food processor or blender) Place into ice cube trays or small bathroom sized cups and freeze. Once frozen you can store in freezer in plastic bag. The great thing is you can play with recipe and add stuff that your dog likes. I use the carob powder or carob chips . Some people add granola to theirs.
No Bake Healthy Homemade DogTreats
APPLE SMEARS..................Approx 2 minutes
• Core an apple and cut into rings or wedges
• Make pieces as thick as you like
• Smear top with a thin layer of any of the spreads
• Watch your dog gobble it up!
ASPARAGUS SPEAROS........Approx 2 minutes
• * Cut off the bottom, hard end of a spear
• * Cut the spear part off and save for your dinner
• * Make a vertical slice into the remaining piece of stem
• * Smear a small amount of one of the spreads into this crack
BROCCOLI BOATS..............Approx 2 minutes
• Cut off the bottom, hard end of a broccoli stem
• Cut the floret parts off and save for your dinner
• Cut a slit in the remaining stem
• Apply a small amount of your dog's favorite into this "boat"
CARROT COOKIES...............Approx 2 minutes
• Cut a large carrot into rounds as thick as you want
• Spread one round with topping of choice, stick another on top
• You're done already!
CELERY SANDWICHES.........Approx 2 minutes
• Slice a celery stalk into two equal lengths
• Smear filling inside the groove of one stalk
• Stick the other stalk over it
• Feed to your dog(s) - yup, that quick!
POPCORN PUPPIES.............Approx 2 minutes
• Take two kernels of popcorn
• Add a 1/2 teaspoonful or less of spread
• Roll kernels in the spread till they stick together
• Give to doggie(s). Wash hands
WALNUT WEDGIES..............Approx 1 minute
• Take half a walnut
• Apply spread
• Stick another half walnut on top
• Repeat up to three times
This cheese dog treat recipe is super easy.
1/4 cup Cheddar cheese, grated
1/4 cup Swiss cheese, grated
1/4 teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 cup Bran Flakes (crumbled)
Combine cheeses, garlic and oil. Using plastic wrap, shape mixture into a log about 1 inch in diameter and 8 inches long. Roll log in crumbled Bran Flakes.
Refrigerate for about an hour. Slice into 1/2-inch rounds and serve.
Makes about 16 treats.
Microwave Doggie Cookies:
2 cups whole wheat flour
3 tbs. oatmeal
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 tsp garlic powder
2/3 cups beef or chicken broth
Place flour in a bowl, add egg & broth. Mix well. Blend in oatmeal & garlic powder. Roll dough into a ball, roll out on a lightly floured surface to 1/2 inch thick. Cut with small cookie cutters. Arrange on a dish and bake in microwave for 5-8 minutes on high or until firm.
Best Buds Dog Biscuits Recipe
1 cup whole wheat flour
½ cup all-purpose flour
¾ cup nonfat dry milk powder
½ cup oats, rolled (raw) -- quick cooking
½ cup yellow cornmeal
1 teaspoon sugar
Cut in 1/3 cup shortening until mix is coarse crumbs. Stir in 1 egg. Dissolve 1 tablespoon instant chicken or beef bouillon granules in ½ cup water. Stir liquid into flour mix with a fork. Form dough into a ball and knead on floured board for 5 minutes. Divide ball in half and roll each portion until ½ inch thick. Use a cookie cutter or shape biscuits. Put 6 on a plate and microwave at medium for 5 to 10 minutes or until firm and dry to touch. Turn biscuits over after ½ cooking time
Homemade Frosty Paws
• 1 Quart plain or vanilla yogurt
• 1 banana or 1 lrg jar banana baby food
• 2 Tbsp peanut butter
• 2 Tbsp honey
• 2 Tbsp carob powder (optional)
If using regular banana mash well....mix all ingredients until well blended ( you could use a food processor or blender) Place into ice cube trays or small bathroom sized cups and freeze. Once frozen you can store in freezer in plastic bag. The great thing is you can play with recipe and add stuff that your dog likes. I use the carob powder or carob chips . Some people add granola to theirs.
No Bake Healthy Homemade DogTreats
APPLE SMEARS..................Approx 2 minutes
• Core an apple and cut into rings or wedges
• Make pieces as thick as you like
• Smear top with a thin layer of any of the spreads
• Watch your dog gobble it up!
ASPARAGUS SPEAROS........Approx 2 minutes
• * Cut off the bottom, hard end of a spear
• * Cut the spear part off and save for your dinner
• * Make a vertical slice into the remaining piece of stem
• * Smear a small amount of one of the spreads into this crack
BROCCOLI BOATS..............Approx 2 minutes
• Cut off the bottom, hard end of a broccoli stem
• Cut the floret parts off and save for your dinner
• Cut a slit in the remaining stem
• Apply a small amount of your dog's favorite into this "boat"
CARROT COOKIES...............Approx 2 minutes
• Cut a large carrot into rounds as thick as you want
• Spread one round with topping of choice, stick another on top
• You're done already!
CELERY SANDWICHES.........Approx 2 minutes
• Slice a celery stalk into two equal lengths
• Smear filling inside the groove of one stalk
• Stick the other stalk over it
• Feed to your dog(s) - yup, that quick!
POPCORN PUPPIES.............Approx 2 minutes
• Take two kernels of popcorn
• Add a 1/2 teaspoonful or less of spread
• Roll kernels in the spread till they stick together
• Give to doggie(s). Wash hands
WALNUT WEDGIES..............Approx 1 minute
• Take half a walnut
• Apply spread
• Stick another half walnut on top
• Repeat up to three times
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Calming Signals
Calming signals are a set of body language skills which dogs use to maintain healthy relationships and resolve conflict without having to resort to aggressive behaviors. These signals often occur early in interactions, as soon as a dog becomes aware that a situation may need “calming down.” This facet of canine communication is designed to help dogs calm themselves and others in the face of stress. Additionally, many dogs make use of calming signals in an effort to simply show goodwill. Dogs with the inability to signal and/or respond appropriately to signals often find themselves in predicaments. Essentially, calming signals are meant for the dog to display their stress in the hopes that the individual it is communicating with will understand and alter their behavior.
All breeds of dogs have calming signals; however some are more developed than others due to the differences in their physical attributes. Sometimes these signals may be very subtle in nature and at other times much more overt, often depending upon the level of threat that a dog is feeling. Many calming signals appear to be hardwired into dogs. For example, puppies may exhibit yawning as early as their first day when they are being picked up and handled. Dogs never completely lose their language, but if they do not have the opportunity to practice their signals, or if they are inadvertently punished for using them, calming signals may become suppressed, which unfortunately turns into a vicious circle.
WHAT ARE SOME OF THE SPECIFIC SIGNALS?
When assessing if a dog is exhibiting calming signals or not, it is important to always look at the context of the situation surrounding the behavior.
1. Head turning/Averting gaze
2. Blinking/Softening gaze
3. Turning away
4. Play bow
5. Curving
6. Slow movements
7. Yawning
8. Sniffing
9. Splitting
10. Nose licking
11. Sitting/Laying down
12. Tail wagging
13. Marking
14. Freezing
EXAMPLES OF CALMING SIGNALS
Averting the Eyes
Breaking eye contact, by averting the eyes is often the first sign of stress observed in a dog.
Turning of the Head
If your dog becomes nervous about the approach of another dog or person, he may turn his head from side-to-side, or may just turn away. This signals the other dog that they are approaching too quickly or too directly.
Turning Away
This is an extension of turning your head. If a group of dogs are playing and some of them get too rough, other dogs may turn their side or back to them in order to get the dogs settled down. If your dog is jumping or whining at you, turning away from them may help calm them.
Nose Licking
Rapid flicking of the tongue over the nose is also a common calming signal. It is often seen with dogs at the veterinarians or when the dog is at the groomers.
Sniffing
Sniffing as a calming signal must be reviewed within the context in which it appears. Obviously, dogs sniff for other reasons than to just indicate stress.
Yawning
Dogs may yawn when in stressful situations such as at the vet’s office or during a quarrel among its family. If your dog is feeling stressed, standing still and yawning may help them relax. They need to see you yawn though, so even though it is impolite, you do not want to cover your mouth if this is to work.
Play Position
Dogs will use a “play bow” (front legs and chest on the ground with hind quarters in the air) to initiate play or to calm another animal down that they are unsure about. You can do a play bow to initiate play or to help relax a dog.
You can learn much about your dog by just sitting back and watching them interact with you, other family members, other dogs and other animals. If you spend the time to do this, it will greatly increase your ability to communicate with your dog
WHEN DO DOGS USE CALMING SIGNALS?
When two dogs meet for the first time, it is very common to observe calming signals being demonstrated. In an effort to show politeness and good will, curving, or not approaching head on, is the typical way that two unfamiliar dogs will greet one another. If one dog is approaching too fast or straight on, and the second dog is concerned about this, you may witness the second dog sniff the ground, turn its head or even its entire body in an effort to slow down the approaching dog.
We also may witness calming signals during play. When play gets too rough, often one dog will stop and sit, signaling to the others that it is feeling some stress. Additionally, this is a time when splitting frequently occurs if one dog feels that two of the others are getting a bit too confrontational in their play style. Incidentally, this is what often takes place in a household when two people hug and the dog tries to move in between them. The dog is not feeling jealous; rather it is concerned that a confrontation may ensue.
Dogs use calming signals not just in inter-dog communication but also when communicating with other species. For example, when a guardian raises their voice to their dog, or even makes extensive hand gestures, the dog will frequently look away. For many dogs subtle movements such as leaning forward may be enough to elicit calming behavior on the part of the dog. There are numerous physical acts that we as humans do which our dogs find distasteful, such as hugging. In almost all instances that we have seen a human hug their dog, the dog looks miserable and is performing a head turn in an effort to display that they are uncomfortable with the situation. Moreover, we commonly see a dog nose licking or yawning at the veterinarian’s office where they typically experience high levels of anxiety and/or restraint.
INCORPORATING CALMING SIGNALS INTO THE WORKPLACE
When working with dogs we watch for calming signals and at the first sign of them we attempt to modify our behavior. For example, when approaching a dog we do so in a curved fashion if at all possible. This allows for our initial greeting to be polite in nature. Also, when training, if we have a dog exhibiting calming signals, we may end the session if we cannot determine and make the appropriate adjustments to ameliorate whatever is distressing to the dog. Splitting is commonly used during classes and playtimes if we feel that dogs are getting too rowdy or we are concerned about a potential conflict. In order to show good will, one of the signals we use most frequently and one of the easiest to use is a head turn followed by turning sideways to the dog if need be. Some signals of course are easier for humans to imitate than others, such as averting eyes, turning, yawning and splitting.
YOUR BODY LANGUAGE
The most important thing that you can do when working with your dog is to simply watch the dog. Humans have a very different communication system from dogs and many things that we do our canine companions find offensive and distressful. When our pets show us calming signals, we need to observe these and cease what we are doing. All dogs are individuals and some will be more sensitive than others to particular situations. Some of the more predictable human behaviors that elicit calming signals are raising our voices (I hope that one is obvious), leaning over the dog, staring, patting the dog on the head, and physically manipulating the dogs body position. While dogs can be taught to tolerate some of these items, and even occasionally come to like them (not yelling), this does not come naturally for the dog.
STRESS AND DOGS
Stress has the same effect upon the body whether it is “good” stress or “bad” stress, and that effect can be disastrous over the long haul. Stress occurs in any situation when a dog is feeling threatened or as though it cannot cope with the present circumstances that it is finding itself in. Essentially, what transpires when a dog gets stressed is that first its adrenaline levels increase. This increases strength and ability to move quickly should need be. The adrenaline is a short term stress hormone that in turn activates cortisol, a longer term stress hormone. When adrenaline increases it affects ADH (antidiuretic hormone) which controls water balance. This is why we see sweaty pads and increased urination in times of stress. The gastric juices, sex hormones and defense mechanisms also rise, leading to increased irritability. It takes anywhere from two to six days for cortisol levels to return to normal. This is why it is so critical that animals not be stressed on a daily basis and that they learn to cope in a positive manner so they are not continually producing cortisol as the stress can accumulate slowly. This is where the proverbial “straw that broke the camel’s back” comes into play.
SIGNS OF STRESS IN A DOG
The following are some of the signs that a dog may exhibit when they are experiencing stress:
1. Panting
2. Vocalizing
3. Shedding/Dandruff
4. Scratching/Licking/Biting self
5. Shaking
6. Sweaty paws/Increased urination
7. Diarrhea/Urinating or defecating inappropriately (providing house trained)
8. Circling/Restless/Pacing
9. Chewing items
10. Allergies
11. Displacement behaviors/Increased reactivity
12. Shuts down
It is important to remember that all calming signals are displayed at low levels of stress. As the stress level increases, calming signals will cease to be displayed.
COMMON STRESSORS FOR DOGS
The following is a list of just some of the items that can lead to stress in a dog:
1. Not having basic needs met (food, water, elimination needs)
2. Punitive training/aggression
3. Too much exercise or too little exercise
4. Pain
5. Being left alone or being in an overly crowded area
6. Sudden changes
7. Frightening situations
Remember, all dogs are individuals and as such different things will stress different dogs.
Dogs that live with high levels of stress are much more likely to have health problems, such as gastrointestinal difficulties, and be quicker to react in difficult situations.
OTHER RESOURCES:
Rugaas, Turid. On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals. Dogwise Publishing, Washington. 2006.
Rugaas, Turid. Calming Signals: What Your Dog Tells You. Dogwise Publishing. (DVD run time 48 minutes).
Calming Signals Community - http://www.canis.no/rugaas/index.php
All breeds of dogs have calming signals; however some are more developed than others due to the differences in their physical attributes. Sometimes these signals may be very subtle in nature and at other times much more overt, often depending upon the level of threat that a dog is feeling. Many calming signals appear to be hardwired into dogs. For example, puppies may exhibit yawning as early as their first day when they are being picked up and handled. Dogs never completely lose their language, but if they do not have the opportunity to practice their signals, or if they are inadvertently punished for using them, calming signals may become suppressed, which unfortunately turns into a vicious circle.
WHAT ARE SOME OF THE SPECIFIC SIGNALS?
When assessing if a dog is exhibiting calming signals or not, it is important to always look at the context of the situation surrounding the behavior.
1. Head turning/Averting gaze
2. Blinking/Softening gaze
3. Turning away
4. Play bow
5. Curving
6. Slow movements
7. Yawning
8. Sniffing
9. Splitting
10. Nose licking
11. Sitting/Laying down
12. Tail wagging
13. Marking
14. Freezing
EXAMPLES OF CALMING SIGNALS
Averting the Eyes
Breaking eye contact, by averting the eyes is often the first sign of stress observed in a dog.
Turning of the Head
If your dog becomes nervous about the approach of another dog or person, he may turn his head from side-to-side, or may just turn away. This signals the other dog that they are approaching too quickly or too directly.
Turning Away
This is an extension of turning your head. If a group of dogs are playing and some of them get too rough, other dogs may turn their side or back to them in order to get the dogs settled down. If your dog is jumping or whining at you, turning away from them may help calm them.
Nose Licking
Rapid flicking of the tongue over the nose is also a common calming signal. It is often seen with dogs at the veterinarians or when the dog is at the groomers.
Sniffing
Sniffing as a calming signal must be reviewed within the context in which it appears. Obviously, dogs sniff for other reasons than to just indicate stress.
Yawning
Dogs may yawn when in stressful situations such as at the vet’s office or during a quarrel among its family. If your dog is feeling stressed, standing still and yawning may help them relax. They need to see you yawn though, so even though it is impolite, you do not want to cover your mouth if this is to work.
Play Position
Dogs will use a “play bow” (front legs and chest on the ground with hind quarters in the air) to initiate play or to calm another animal down that they are unsure about. You can do a play bow to initiate play or to help relax a dog.
You can learn much about your dog by just sitting back and watching them interact with you, other family members, other dogs and other animals. If you spend the time to do this, it will greatly increase your ability to communicate with your dog
WHEN DO DOGS USE CALMING SIGNALS?
When two dogs meet for the first time, it is very common to observe calming signals being demonstrated. In an effort to show politeness and good will, curving, or not approaching head on, is the typical way that two unfamiliar dogs will greet one another. If one dog is approaching too fast or straight on, and the second dog is concerned about this, you may witness the second dog sniff the ground, turn its head or even its entire body in an effort to slow down the approaching dog.
We also may witness calming signals during play. When play gets too rough, often one dog will stop and sit, signaling to the others that it is feeling some stress. Additionally, this is a time when splitting frequently occurs if one dog feels that two of the others are getting a bit too confrontational in their play style. Incidentally, this is what often takes place in a household when two people hug and the dog tries to move in between them. The dog is not feeling jealous; rather it is concerned that a confrontation may ensue.
Dogs use calming signals not just in inter-dog communication but also when communicating with other species. For example, when a guardian raises their voice to their dog, or even makes extensive hand gestures, the dog will frequently look away. For many dogs subtle movements such as leaning forward may be enough to elicit calming behavior on the part of the dog. There are numerous physical acts that we as humans do which our dogs find distasteful, such as hugging. In almost all instances that we have seen a human hug their dog, the dog looks miserable and is performing a head turn in an effort to display that they are uncomfortable with the situation. Moreover, we commonly see a dog nose licking or yawning at the veterinarian’s office where they typically experience high levels of anxiety and/or restraint.
INCORPORATING CALMING SIGNALS INTO THE WORKPLACE
When working with dogs we watch for calming signals and at the first sign of them we attempt to modify our behavior. For example, when approaching a dog we do so in a curved fashion if at all possible. This allows for our initial greeting to be polite in nature. Also, when training, if we have a dog exhibiting calming signals, we may end the session if we cannot determine and make the appropriate adjustments to ameliorate whatever is distressing to the dog. Splitting is commonly used during classes and playtimes if we feel that dogs are getting too rowdy or we are concerned about a potential conflict. In order to show good will, one of the signals we use most frequently and one of the easiest to use is a head turn followed by turning sideways to the dog if need be. Some signals of course are easier for humans to imitate than others, such as averting eyes, turning, yawning and splitting.
YOUR BODY LANGUAGE
The most important thing that you can do when working with your dog is to simply watch the dog. Humans have a very different communication system from dogs and many things that we do our canine companions find offensive and distressful. When our pets show us calming signals, we need to observe these and cease what we are doing. All dogs are individuals and some will be more sensitive than others to particular situations. Some of the more predictable human behaviors that elicit calming signals are raising our voices (I hope that one is obvious), leaning over the dog, staring, patting the dog on the head, and physically manipulating the dogs body position. While dogs can be taught to tolerate some of these items, and even occasionally come to like them (not yelling), this does not come naturally for the dog.
STRESS AND DOGS
Stress has the same effect upon the body whether it is “good” stress or “bad” stress, and that effect can be disastrous over the long haul. Stress occurs in any situation when a dog is feeling threatened or as though it cannot cope with the present circumstances that it is finding itself in. Essentially, what transpires when a dog gets stressed is that first its adrenaline levels increase. This increases strength and ability to move quickly should need be. The adrenaline is a short term stress hormone that in turn activates cortisol, a longer term stress hormone. When adrenaline increases it affects ADH (antidiuretic hormone) which controls water balance. This is why we see sweaty pads and increased urination in times of stress. The gastric juices, sex hormones and defense mechanisms also rise, leading to increased irritability. It takes anywhere from two to six days for cortisol levels to return to normal. This is why it is so critical that animals not be stressed on a daily basis and that they learn to cope in a positive manner so they are not continually producing cortisol as the stress can accumulate slowly. This is where the proverbial “straw that broke the camel’s back” comes into play.
SIGNS OF STRESS IN A DOG
The following are some of the signs that a dog may exhibit when they are experiencing stress:
1. Panting
2. Vocalizing
3. Shedding/Dandruff
4. Scratching/Licking/Biting self
5. Shaking
6. Sweaty paws/Increased urination
7. Diarrhea/Urinating or defecating inappropriately (providing house trained)
8. Circling/Restless/Pacing
9. Chewing items
10. Allergies
11. Displacement behaviors/Increased reactivity
12. Shuts down
It is important to remember that all calming signals are displayed at low levels of stress. As the stress level increases, calming signals will cease to be displayed.
COMMON STRESSORS FOR DOGS
The following is a list of just some of the items that can lead to stress in a dog:
1. Not having basic needs met (food, water, elimination needs)
2. Punitive training/aggression
3. Too much exercise or too little exercise
4. Pain
5. Being left alone or being in an overly crowded area
6. Sudden changes
7. Frightening situations
Remember, all dogs are individuals and as such different things will stress different dogs.
Dogs that live with high levels of stress are much more likely to have health problems, such as gastrointestinal difficulties, and be quicker to react in difficult situations.
OTHER RESOURCES:
Rugaas, Turid. On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals. Dogwise Publishing, Washington. 2006.
Rugaas, Turid. Calming Signals: What Your Dog Tells You. Dogwise Publishing. (DVD run time 48 minutes).
Calming Signals Community - http://www.canis.no/rugaas/index.php
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